This is Why Rebar is CRUCIAL!!!!!
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2022
- Tom shows you why you never want to skip the rebar when pouring concrete.
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That's on the excavator who didn't compact the foundation dig. I've seen it many times, they just dump loads and loads of backfill without compacting and then do a little at the end on top. Really need to backfill in separate lifts compacted with water.
Old rebar is obviously laying on the stone, not up in the concrete. That's a mistake often made by careless contractors. Glad you used some chairs to support the new rebar. In 42 years of commercial construction I never saw one of those fun tools you used to push the stone back under the existing floor. Seems to work pretty well as long as there are no voids further back than you can reach. I would have used a vibrator around the edges to get the new crete back under the old floor.
That is impressive how the concrete stayed suspended. Proves the need for rebar.
Whats up guys? Just got this vid, good stuff. Ppl think fiber is a primary reinforcement and it's not its a 2nd dary reinforcement! Can't wait for the new season
great job. nice when your work shines thru.
Nice job Tom!👍🏻👍🏻
I think the title should be... how important compacting is lol and using the sorrento type of fill! To me and in my area the sub base is the most Important reinforcement u can have, then rebar or wire then fiber
Wow. That proved all you say about rebar and the quality of your work. I hope the ground under the house footings are solid or that would be a big disaster. So good to see a pro in action. I like the finish, looks like aggregate. Good job Tom and another good video! Thanks. 👍👌❤
Great job Tom you really know your concrete
Nice work!
Very informative video, reminds me of when I was on city council. We had a street where the base settled around 3 feet, it was all fill. They came in and did slab jacking and filled the void with grout under pressure. It did not have rebar because it was poured 7 inches thick!
Just wondering if that was a spec built house? Do it as cheap as possible?
I have seen it where they also use close-cell foam also. Since the pipe was broken that negates all the above fixes, obviously!
Gut wrenching when you showed the gap. Great video.
You have a great bunch of guys
great and informative video for the novice concrete worker, and for homeowners having concrete work done! I wish you could see the re-bar we using on this job in India, some of it 32mm :)
Talking to a guy in India name Marty sent me some pictures of exactly what you’re talking about
Good compaction is very important to him
Nice work :)
Great job guys!
In Australia, we call them skirting boards.
Surprised they did not have you replace all of it. There has to be some gaps closer to the door that you could not see. Great work by your Crew Tom.
Couldn't agree more . The homeowner is really getting screwed here.
@@Bigmikkey55 by the builder ? Doubt That!! I would think that GC worked out something with the homeowner and Tom was doing the repair as per the General Contractor. Homeowner happy with the fix? Don't know! but if the front cracks, and sinks you can bet fingers will be pointing 👉 👈 to someone but it won't be Tom's crew!
Well done 🤜🤛😎
I do not know about there in Pennsylvania but in the Texas Panhandle a big problem is old prairie dog towns. When it first started they built the business/registrar/student union building with slab on grade in 1929 but they did not know there was an old prairie dog town at that location and over the decades as the burrows collapsed the floor between the foundation started to sink and ended up about four inches below the base boards.
When they built new buildings later they would dig out the footprint of the building about twenty feet deep and then return the soil and pack it down very tight and top it off with cliche. After that they would start the new building.
I've seen that a lot. Nice work. I know it's a day of rest but I've been doing a lot of online research for modern methods and keep going back to your program. I do a lot of structural stuff so I stay on top of new methods.
I’m not 100% sold on fiberglass rebar
@@Concretewiththehauses to be honest with you I had my doubts as well. I really did like that sink you put in for that awesome countertop. I did a farm style monolithic pour countertop sink in place before. It came out real nice using collapsible form. I wanted to thank you again for all that I've learned. It really makes the world of a small potatoes guy a whole lot easier
Well done guys, good forever fix
Good for you and your professional courtesy regarding the site and developer. Hope they're not living over a sinkhole 😬🙏
Very nice job.
Good fix, it's always something!
Wow, what a problem homeowner had & glad your cc did not fail. Wonder if original builder's people compacted this surface? 14" is a large 'drop'. Was this house ( subdivision) developed over some former wetland area? Or built on top of former water way drain path? Where are city planning/approval people on this particular house? Have their been other issues like this with neighboring houses?...Hope this is an isolated case & not multi house, neighborhood-of-houses problem. Keep us posted Tom. Thx for your filming 🎥 & showing your solution. Love that pneumatic 'pusher-tamper-large-ball' tool with long handle. Impressive that you have lots of necessary tools 🔧. Bet that heater was handy in such low temp conditions. Great video on fixing a subsidence problem below your ridged, rebar reinforced garage cc slab!
Now since it's soo cold outside, let's make another furniture item in your warm garage!🧑🔧😊🍷
This builder usually does a pretty good job. I think working in the wood shop is going to have to be put on hold for about nine months work is really starting to pick up Thanks for watching
Yet another great job by YINZ guys
Be that won’t sink again!
Thanks for sharing
Stay safe
Have a Day
That's a great job
A grade beam across between that existing concrete and the new concrete might have been a idea since it looked like that dirt fill wasnt compacted at all either. By the way it was going down when you were compacting it !! The grade beam could have added alittle insurance !! Just a thought !
Was the house built at the same time? Makes me wonder if they missed compacting under the foundation/slab as well..
What period of time passed for that sub-base to drop so far? That owner is lucky to have you available to fix his problem. You've got all the right tools for your business, like Mike Morgan has all the tools for his. I enjoy watching each of you because you're both so good at what you do. 👏
Hi Tom....The use of ground penetrating radar (GPR) used over the entire surface of the existing concrete floor slab would have identified the precise locations and the amount of settlement under the entire slab. Pumping flowable concrete fill under the portion of the existing slab that was not demolished would also help support the remaining floor slab.
Hate to have to bust that out if it did settle more! Lol
When I was a kid, the ground under PCH in Laguna Beach was settling or eroding and the city contracted a guy to come out with a trailer mounted pump. He cored a few holes and bolted in some sort of flange that he could attach to. He connected his hose and started pumping. 10 trucks later, the road went from slumping to domed. It was impressive to watch that V8 powered pump lift the whole road.
Typical for a residential contractor to not properly compact the dirt, they are alwaws taking shortcuts or they do not know how to do it correctly. It is hard to imposable to get good nuclear density gage readings when compacting dirt even with the correct moisture content and the proper equipment. Sometimes it is impossible to get compaction with a jumping jake. I hate those things.
Best practice is to just build and design things to minimize fill placement. I wish civil engineers and architects would figure that out.
One thing to remember, a lot of nuclear density gage operators are not paid well and are under a lot of pressure to the point of being yelled at, so you can never assume that your compaction is being done correctly. I think a lot of guys are just passing everything.
A nuclear density gage measures compaction of soil.
Soil has to be at the proper moisture to compact properly, too wet or too dry and it can not be compacted. An example is clay soils. You can roll Bone dry clay to a hard glass like surface but it will not be compacted.
Thanks for all that that was pretty interesting
I have filled a lot of garage floors on new home builds and we always compacted in about 8" lifts except for the foot close to the walls for just that reason. I would imagine the builder would have been the one that had to foot the bill for that job. I worked on a job that the suspended slab collapsed in the middle of the night. The home owner heard the noise and walked in the door from the kitchen to the garage to see what the noise was and fell 8 feet . He got a little busted up.
I would bet more than a little. Thanks for watching
I had this same thing happen in my garage. I am going to have floor replaced. The first guys that did work when house was built did not use rebar. House was built 30 years ago. Ron
Great video on how not to do something. Great repair. Stay safe.
You guys are very impressive. Thank you for the response to my email.I appricated it greatly. I look forward to the upcoming season. Have a wonderful day.
Tom, your workmanship is top notch! Whoever prepared the base should pay the bill, that amount of shrinking is 100% on the other contractor for not compacting the fill.
Todd you ever been to court over cracked concrete?
Had a contractor out here like that in 2000, we made thousands of dollars for his lack of attention to details,great video Tom
Been there done that. Builders that try to push the process faster than make sense are playing Russian roulette.
Rebar does not stop concrete from cracking, I am no concrete professional but i can put down concrete its not that hard, My Dad and i have a 24' x 50' x 4" we slab poured in front of my shop for about 48 years now, yes it has a few cracks like all concrete slabs will have and it has no rebar, we pull semi trucks on it and it is still good, my shop 60' x 100' x 4" has no rebar and has no cracks what so ever, I had a buddy concrete professional pour a pad in front of my house garage, 24' x 40' x 4", and he argued with me saying he would not pour the slab without rebar, he said he had some left over from a job and he would put the rebar in for free and so he did. It was poured in the spring and before sommer was over it had cracks in all over the place and some even got bigger the next summer. My grandfather was a professional in concrete and he told me that concrete was guaranteed to dry and then crack. So my question is why rebar in a slab pour, so next time you go to a friends house that has concrete poured in front of his garage see if it has any cracks and also i'm pretty sure it has rebar in it. I am not saying that i know if rebar is needed or not but i am saying it does not keep concrete slab from cracking.Ok concrete professionals go ahead and learn me i am open for discussion.
That’s not a simple one to answer. I am a fan of rebar. If it does crack, the rebar will hold it together. Concrete cracks for many reasons. Thanks for the comment.
Seen this before; actually found a company that pumps in 2 part polyurethane foam that works well. They can actually use their system to raise concrete as well which was helpful in leveling out some old unevenly settled concrete. While they weren’t cheap I’m guessing they were probably less expensive than this.
Builder looked into that a little bit it is pricey
@@Concretewiththehauses: When I had it done it was the cheapest option; it has the added benefit of being 100% waterproof as well as being adhesive in nature which actually helped to stabilize things more.
Seen this issue a few times, the garage isn’t bad when it happens in a basement costs get expensive to do it any other way. Though it can very depending where you are, in NY labor costs dwarf the material costs but in some place where labor is cheap or cheaper it may be less expensive to re-do the concrete.
I had my garage floor raised by a contractor using mud jacking... they forced stone dust and water mixture under slab that had sunk over years... the house is over 60 years old. the slab is still solid and not cracked... they drilled holes and injected the mixture... i had also explored the use of foam before deciding to use the stone dust mixture. I has stayed solid for the last three years
James Jensen: Any idea of an approximate cost for something like that? I have a 30 'x 30' barn floor that was cut into 9 10 x 10 sections that are no longer even due to some of them sinking.
@@d.a.ballou9740 I’m sorry but I don’t remember exactly what I paid... but it wasn’t too much... I’m sure there are contractors nearly everywhere that can do such work and give estimates... I would not recommend the other process that uses foam... it is said to deteriorate... while the stone dust stays solid. It might be that the stone dust is actually ground up cement from demo jobs but I don’t know much more
@@jamesjensen5000 No problem. I was just trying to get some idea, from someone that has had this done, as to whether they thought the price they paid was reasonable, or really expensive. Thanks for the reply and the information about using a foam product.
1:32
Do you ever work with RCC ?
that's the first thing that came to mind as you're describing the problem.
Doesn't look like your typical garage pretty fancy.
Great job as always to you and your crew
What's the best type of compactor to use?
I'm getting ready for my garage floor to be poured and recently had shale brought in as fill. I've been driving over it with my tractor
I have two Makita’s and a stone they work pretty well for me they are quite old and still run good thanks for watching
This is a very interesting and yet concerning video.
We have a very poor driveway base that turns into a mud mess as the season changes, even after ten years. We live in Central Elgin County Ontario (Canada). We are currently getting quotes on a cement pad approx 40 feet by 30 foot in front of double car garage.
What should be be looking for as we get quotes when it comes to rebar and concrete depth ? Is there a standard diameter and grid section ?
We have been following your channel since you started making videos after working on the Morgans. You have a great channel and we are learning quite a bit from your concrete work to your wood making projects, very refreshing.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
This is one of the reasons I started this channel I’m glad you asked. Driveway should be poured at a bare minimum 4 inches thick 5 inches is better as you get to the street were UPS trucks delivery trucks could nose in about 6 inches thick. I recommend at least 4000 PSI concrete. We use fiber mesh and half inch rebar and often times will put wiremesh in as well it really does not up to cost that much on the projects. The rebar make sure you hit your troubled areas a little more I would say at least a 4 x 4‘ grid for standard car and pick up traffic and never forget a good concrete sealer sorry for the lengthy reply another good idea is to talk to your local Redimix supplier and see who they recommend for install thanks for watching good luck keep me posted
@@Concretewiththehauses Thank you Tom. That is great feedback. It is awesome for your quick response and information. You are a true professional.
brrrrrrrr 7 degrees, when that was filmed it was 80 here, great job as always
Who stole the dirt under the floor call the cops
Sadly the owners expected the job to be done the first time. There are many craftsmen who advertise as professionals but really they are not even amateurs. You know what you are doing and you are able to repair a bad job done by the original contractor. I am sure that the owners will appreciate the work that you do every time.
Could you have put pillars in. Sometimes we use 10 inch pipe 4 feet deep every 5-6 feet to support concrete in case sub base settles.
In the beginning yes now I feel the settling is all done
You can see the rebar
I would be nervous if I was that homeowner, I hope they don't have problems in other parts of the home.
should've demoed the entire garage floor, but good job ! 👍
I’ve used one those jumping Jack compactor and you definitely don’t want your face over top when starting. LOL !!!
look where the rebar is. It should be in the middle of the slab. This proves not using chairs and pulling the bar up during placement is a joke.
At least they knew who to call to fix and fix it right 👍
Glad that didn't fall back on you for responsibility.
Absolutely me too
I’ve done carpentry work for developing companies that you water around foundation s so equipment doesn’t crack the block work
Estimating concrete must be sketchy, not knowing how much was going to flow under the existing floor.
Do you think this was a failure of improper back filling or material or both ?
He actually said that from what I gathered he laid the creet but had nothing to do with the foundation and he pointed out the problem was they didn't compact the base enough for the soil conditions they was dealing with
But they came in seen the shit they already knew was gonna happen and did an awsome job they did not point them out but did the best ever job fixing it tookout the least possible side packed under better filled then finished with top quality work hello just watch a couple of Tom's vids and it just shows in true colors 😉 👍
Wow, what a mess. Amazing job. Just curious how old the house is.
Just a couple years maybe four
Howdy Tom, just curious if you have nicknames for your compaction tools? We called the plate compactor like yours "Jumping Jack" and the pneumatic tamp "Toe Beater". Have A Day! ;~)
Same jumping jack toe breaker or jawbreaker Funny thanks for watching
Just curious can you use a company that uses spry foam to raise or fill in that gap for a more cheep fix if need I’ve company’s raise slabs in videos
We wanted to remove the two pads in the bad area so we could really compact after four years the settling was done just wanted to tighten the area up for the new concrete
What do you think of road mat reinforcement under a garage floor?
Good, but also put some half-inch rebar in there with it
Was it water that undermine it 🤔
TOM, Was that settling from the backfilling done in the winter time? Then after the build, the ground sunk due to thaw?
With it being inside a garage I would say the sinking was mainly from the ground in the garage not being compacted after it was dug up for the build.
I’d have to look back and see exactly when we poured it it’s just a blur that long ago
What about pumping a flowable fill into the voids?
I believe the builder looked into that and decide to have us do it this way
What does something like that cost?
@@d.a.ballou9740 Better to ask Tom Hause or concrete company
Do you ever use that fiberglass Corning rebar
I haven’t yet but I am going to try them this year I’ve heard good things about them
Is there not a structural foam that could have been placed under the undisturbed slab?
Just decided to demo and compact and Re pour
I’m curious why you didn’t wire-tie the or all of the rebar in the new floor.
Not sure what you mean all the rods were tied
@@Concretewiththehauses That's reassuring. I did see one of the guys stepping on what appeared to be an untied rod.
Could expanding foam be injected down there to fill the gap ?
I could but we went this direction so we could compact the troubled area
This is where pouring above the foundation wall bites you. Should've let the mud jacker come in. I've ran into this hundreds of times, I either tear it all out, or I walk away. It's going to settle more in the future
It has been there 4 years plus we did more compassion I think it’s done settling
Why don't you insulate the slab if that is a heated garage?
Sometimes we do around the perimeter but that’s usually it
wait, isn't concrete guy responsible for compacting the base?
We plate temp . it’s filled in when we get there
Looks like the old snow and ice backfill wasn't the best quality!!
I wonder if using the spray foam would have been way easier and maybe cheaper? They use it to raise concrete, but here you would just want to fill the void
We did look at some other options but felt this was the best approach
Sine the floor was in such goos shape, why not pump jack or fill the void with concrete pumped into a hole or holes?
We had talked about that possibility that still does not compact the ground as well as that was pretty pricey
How old is slab. This has to be a lawsuit.
you think the gravel just settled, and did not wash away under ground some where
Just settled
Have you ever used fiberglass rebar and is it any good or not
I have not used them yet they’ve been in my area for about three years maybe four years just haven’t tried them yet I’ve heard good things about them
@@Concretewiththehauses I have watched O'Dell concrete on CZcams and don't think he is as good as you 😉 but he keeps talking about it and says it don't rust but that's all he ever says like too much and says it's cheaper and ok we are in pa and I've seen alot of concrete failure but never seen rebar over rusted plus you can get coated rebar I don't know it just seems like on his vids he over states the fact that it don't rust
@@Concretewiththehauses hey if you want to be really silly fun watch the best of the west concrete on CZcams lol he don't know shit and is just so opinionated like he is the shit lol its just obvious he don't know shit like the houses lol you guys are the best and do awsome work 😉 😄 and thank you for it 😄 not many companies left out there with the experience or pride or expertise that you bring with generations 😄 😊
@@robertmyers461 You're in Pa.? Go look at the underside of an old bridge. Bet you'll see areas of broken concrete and exposed, badly rusted rebar. Rust over time is the big problem with rebar. The rust expands and cracks/breaks the crete. How fast that happens depends on how much moisture it's exposed to. It's a slow process that takes many years. Coated rebar gets chipped and allows rust to set in and actually spread faster. I think standard rebar will eventually be phased out in favor of newer types that won't rust.
@@Grendelbc ya hay I know all about it I'm retired from penndot so ya I can see the benefits of no rust but is it strong here in pa we have fibercon they use it to build airport runways with no rebar and no tie costs and is stonger than rebar and is made with stainless hello n rust
Holy cow…! I would never have imagined something like that…, sinking/settling that much…. That is just crazy.
How could the base have settled so much to have left such a void ? 🤔
I was thinking the same thing. The builder certainly should have used re-bar, but even if they did, not sure how that'd prevented the settling of the base.
The subfloor wasn’t compacted when it was filled in and settled over time
Have you considered using "dirt mud" that can be forced under the concrete floor to fill in the voids? My daughter had this mud jacking done to her front stoop and sidewall to fill the voids under her wall way when it started to settle.
With the compaction we did and the added rebar I feel we’re good
Tom, would it of been better just to re-pour the whole pad. Looks like you replaced half of the slab.
Didn’t see a need the concrete was in such good shape we replace And compacted the bad area
Nice paw print hat... have you been converted to a PSU fan???
I still owe too much money to Pitt
Whoever built that house should not be in business. Complete failure of the foundation due to poor preparation.
I know them they’re very good builders just had some settling
Omg it's still compacting while that compactor wtf did that crew do just poor on uncompacted soil
Vibrator?
Sometimes
The owners were very lucky more damage didn’t occur to their home. Certainly rebar is very important as you indicate…where I can I also use Forta Fiber just to make slabs stronger.
For a little extra work preforming the compaction process, none of this would have occurred….Terrible work!!
I’m not making excuses but you do realize it was filled in when we got there
So that's your floor you and the boys poured but you had nothing to do with the base prep??
Correct. When we show up to a job like this, it’s already filled in with dirt or whatever else the excavation company uses. We flatten it out, add however much gravel we need and then pour the concrete
Correct all we do is play temp the top
It won’t work. You should have dug a 3’x3 pier all the way Down to original ground..
why did you not take it all out?
What was that Diamond in the floor for? Don’t you see a problem there?
That diamond is the floor drain !
Here’s the only way you can be sure the Settling is done. Tear it all out than put water all over the fill in the garage. With the fill/dirt settling enough to break the plumbing pipes you know the fill in the garage was junk material....the steel would only hold it up for so long. To hold. Concrete up where a car sets on it you can only span 18’8” and the concrete would have to be 8”thick and 2 layers/mats of steel the bottom steel every 8” an and the top mat of steel every 12” . The only reason it didn’t fall in there was still some ground the concrete was setting on that hasn’t settled yet. steel every 2’ even 1’ will just help it from cracking and spreading. In this case the garage walls kept it from spreading and cracking.
While speaking with a neighbor 20 years ago, I happen to place my foot on top of a Fire Hydrant in front of his house and watch as it moved roughly 2 inches to one side. While discussing it with the neighbor, he took me over to his Driveway and showed me a crack that he said for years he had been trying to fill, but everything he put in it disappeared. I suggested he call the City to report the problem because water if left to run for years can erode massive amounts of dirt. When the City showed up and started to replace the Fire Hydrant they found a space under his Driveway that a small child could have walked through. Amazing his 1963 impala never fell through the driveway nor did his 1953 Buick Special. I wasn't home when the Fire Hydrant was fixed but you can bet the City never fixed the damage it caused under the Driveway, (the length of the driveway, 40 feet).
That’s amazing two years ago maybe three years ago now we had a bus fall through our street here in Pittsburgh because of that same thing thanks for watching
Your a standup contractor, but what about the rest of the house? I understand that you only did the garage, is that all they're fixing?
If I was the homeowner, I'd be very concerned that more of the same wouldn't be happening in different areas of the foundation.
If you knew the builder it would be OK he’s very meticulous and one of the better builders in the area
@@Concretewiththehauses well, he hired you and that speaks volumes. I'd still have sections of the slap cored and checked, just sayin... lol
Did anyone run a scope/camera down that drainpipe? I would think that 14" of subsidence would be a red flag for a bigger issue - like a broken pipe farther down the line and out towards the main hook-up (or leech field if it's a septic system).