MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THESE 5 TOYOTA ENGINES | 22RE, 3VZE, 3RZ, 5VZE, 1FZ-FE
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ATTENTION: VERY IMPORTANT INFO FOR 3RZ OWNERS!!! >>>> If you own a high mileage 3RZ ( whether you bought it new, or used ), there is one thing that can ruin this amazingly strong engine block: THE 2 BEARINGS THAT THE 2 BALANCE SHAFTS RIDE ON. ( only 1 bearing for each balance shaft at THE FRONT of each shaft ) Many 3RZ owners are doing a balance shaft delete ( total removal of the balance shafts/bearings/chain, and related gears/parts. ) They do this for 2 REASONS: With all the parts removed pertaining to the balance shafts ( they only help reduce engine/vehicle vibration ), it results in less parasitic loss & less weight, so you have slightly more power......but more importantly: if and when the bearings for the balance shafts wear out, the balance shaft WILL begin spinning right against the balance shaft bore in the engine block, which WILL score that bore, making it impossible to install a new bearing or "bearing blank" ( this bearing blank is part of the balance shaft delete kit/process, and replaces the original bearing that has an oil galley for oiling the bearing to balance shaft surface, the bearing BLANK does NOT have an oil galley, because there is no balance shaft left to oil. During balance shaft removal, the oil galley MUST be blocked off, or you lose all of your oil pressure to the rest of the engine. ) THIS SCORING OF THE BORE IN THE BLOCK FOR EACH BALANCE SHAFT/BEARING CANNOT BE REPAIRED, AND RUINS THE ENGINE BLOCK!!! 3RZ ENGINE BLOCKS ARE VERY HARD TO COME BY, AND ENTIRE USED 3RZ ENGINES, EVEN WITH HIGH MILEAGE, ARE PRICEY. ( I recently saw a complete 3RZ engine with 150,000 miles on ebay, and the seller wanted $2,900!!! ) DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOUR PRIZED 3RZ ENGINE >>>> DO A BALANCE SHAFT DELETE!!! If the engine has low miles and has been properly serviced, you have plenty of time to do this project. ( But if you bought the engine or truck used, you have no idea how well that engine was serviced. Food for thought. ) LC Engineering ( also known as "LCE" .....they have a website ) sells a balance shaft delete KIT, to do the entire job. You will only need a drill and a few basic hand tools to use for installing this kit. The kit is only $99. I bought this kit, along with all my parts to rebuild my 3RZ. I forgot to mention this in my other comments here. It IS possible to do this entire procedure without the kit sold by LCE, but the kit also gives you a trick LCE custom made oil jet that will spray oil only on your timing chain & gear, instead of using the old oil jet ( that gets removed with this kit ) that sprays oil on both the timing chain and the balance shafts chain/gears. No need to spray oil on parts that are now removed permanently, and your oil pressure is used only where it needs to be. LCE also has a video on their youtube channel that walks you through the entire process, using their balance shaft delete kit.
I had an 86 with 22R. Rode around with blown head gasket. Oil and antifreeze about to come out dipstick. Never Skipped a beat. Beast!
22R and RE, the things I put these engines through is unbelievable! Almost unstoppable. Great video bud
Yes they are!
Yeah the 22r carby version actually makes a bit more power in the high end than the injected models, have got my hilux up to 200kmh with a stock carb and smog delete. Very impressed with the abuse it puts up with its spent about two years now as a skid car and hasn’t had a single issue, will skid 4th gear well on the gravel which is quite a bit of oower
Love the 22re but mine finnaly broke after years of heavy usage.. im thinking of going 5vz but the motor mounts are holding me back. Have no experience in fab and welding.
Love the 3RZ. My parents bought a Hilux SR5 2.7 4WD brand new in 1998. In 2019, my dad and I fitted the TRD supercharger around 250,000KM, now it has done 280,000KM, totally unopened with nothing but routine servicing. Exceptional.
Great video Nutty! I've only owned the 22RE but absolutely love it. More of a fuel consumption and reliability guy vs. power. I own a '91 xtra cab with 340K on it. Still original motor. Been in my family its entire life. Bought my son a '90 4Runner this summer and have been fixing it up. Has 190K on it and got it for $3,800 on Craiglist here in OR. Helluva deal but whoever owned it prior didn't take very good care of it. Doing a timing chain/oil & water pump/alternator job on it right now. Learning as I go but it has been fun! I do love working on the 22RE. Fun motor!
I'm pretty sure the only differences between the 2RZ and the 3RZ is the 2RZ is 2.4 liters ( shorter stroke and possibly slightly smaller bore ) and the 3RZ is slightly bigger at 2.7 liters ( slightly longer stroke and possibly bigger bore ). Both use the same block & heads, gaskets, etc. I do know for a fact that the 3RZ has what is known as "a square engine" design, meaning the bore & stroke are identical. The 3RZ is in fact considered one of the most reliable engines ever made by Toyota. ( I believe the issue with "burnt valves" was due to Toyota getting a large batch of inferior exhaust valves, because mine didn't have that issue. ) I bought my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with 3RZFE ( electronic fuel injection, earlier versions used a carburator ) with Aisen/Warner auto transmission & factory tow package/reg short cab, and front manual lockers, brand new. LOVE this truck/engine/transmission. I worked the snot out of this little truck, towing a trailer load ranging from 1200 to 2000 lbs ( total w/trailer ) DAILY for my business/work and towing my 17' bass boat most weekends FOR 250,000 MILES, and w/o a single problem. And I did it with 265 tires ( practically as big as 30" ). Sometimes I towed loads right up to, or just beyond the truck's 3,500 lb towing limit. The first 3 years, I also did some serious 4WD offroad & mud, etc adventures. To this day, the auto transmission still shifts perfectly, and my buddy who owns & operates a reputable transmission shop gives it a clean bill of health, even today. Over the years, I had 1 ignition coil go bad ( engine has 2 coils ), 1 fuel pump, a radiator, and that's about it, besides normal wear & tear parts to be replaced as expected. At 340,000 miles, I finally had a bearing seal in the rear axle go bad, so I replaced both sides with quality FAG bearings, retainer, seals, etc, on both sides of the axle. ( Might as well do both sides when this happens. ) FINALLY, after 22 YEARS and 375,000 MILES of a tough work/daily driver life, she either blew a head gasket or cracked the head. My friend's father owns the same truck/engine/trans, same model year, now with over 500,000 miles on all original engine & drive train. But he never worked his truck like I did mine. MINE STILL USES VERY LITTLE, IF ANY OIL. I only had to add 1/4 of a quart of oil at 2,000 miles, but I believe it leaks most of that. Besides a rear main seal slightly leaking, my bottom end is probably still fine, but I'm having the entire engine rebuilt, using a brand new genuine Toyota head, and all critical engine parts like bearings are Japanese as well. Bought ALL parts to rebuild from LC Engineering and YotaShop.com. ( the ONLY 2 sources I trust for proven, quality Toyota and/or proven aftermarket parts for Toyota engines ) I bought the head from LC Engineering completely built with upgraded valve springs/keepers and VITON valve seals ( superior to teflon. ) I also paid extra to get upgraded stock size valves made by SuperTech. These are the best stainless steel valves available anywhere, plus they are black nitride coated. Having my engine rebuilt starting next week. Because I started mechanically refurbishing the truck in the past 18 months, I already have a new Tom Woods custom HD offroad drive shaft (best in the industry, yet very good pricing ), new Koyo bearings & hubs up front ( both sides ), and a quality stainless steel "shorty" TRI-Y header. After my engine is rebuilt, I plan on doing the minor body work and getting her painted. Gonna drive it till I'm dead. It's been the single most reliable & durable vehicle I've ever owned.......and I've owned a lot of cars, trucks, and bikes at 60 yrs old now.
Don’t think the 3rz ever came with a carb are you thinking of a 22r?
@@achilleaustin4477 I don't know why in the hell I said that, but the earliest 3RZ's did come with a distributor, before the electronic ignition system versions.
The 3RZ was made from 1995 through 2004.....a 10 year history. For anyone interested: see my other lengthy comment for my personal experience with my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with 3RZ engine. I bought it new, and over 22 yrs later, I still own it to this day.
Exhaust manifold always cracks
@@hankhill3417 Well no shit Shirley. Is it a "design flaw" with the engine itself? NO, it's the cast iron exhaust manifolds. That's why ya put a quality stainless shorty tri-y header on & watch how much better the engine runs too. The 3RZ-FE engine has already proven to be one of the most durable engines ever produced by any manufacturer. It's a well documented fact that many 3RZ owners get over 500,000 miles on the original engine & drive train.........manual or automatic. And when they do eventually fail, it's almost always the head gasket or head itself. Even so, if oil changes are performed properly using GOOD oil, the bottom end of this engine is usually still good to go. Incredible engine, pure & simple. At 376K miles, I finally blew a head gasket on mine, decided to rebuild the entire engine including a new genuine Toyota head, kept driving it only where I absolutely had to go ( work & back, groceries, etc ) and not running over 2000 rpm's, only because it took 2 months to get all of my parts. Sure enough, the bottom end of the engine was still in great shape: all of the bearings & journals looked almost like mirrors, with no major wear/witness marks anywhere. I rebuilt it anyway, of course. And that was using Castrol conventional 10w30. I'm now running Amsoil full synthetic.
See my other 3 comments. PUT A QUALITY STAINLESS STEEL "SHORTY" TRI-Y HEADER ON YOUR 3RZ.....YA WON'T REGRET IT !!! The shorty tri-y header is much better than a long-tube header for better low to mid range power and daily driving. I did this to mine ONLY because I kept cracking those darned factory cast iron exhaust manifolds. ( I forgot to mention this in my other comment. ) I was rather surprised at how much better the engine runs with a header only. I'm still running the factory stock air filter box. What an improvement!!! Better than I imagined. Had I known this, I would've done it years earlier.
My limited experience with a 3.0 automatic was to test drive a 1990 pickup and drive a friend's '91 4 Runner with stock 31" tires and 4.88 gears with 5 people and some luggage as we travelled from Quebec to NY city back in the mid-1990s. That thing was slow and it drank some gas! I have owned two pickups with the same engine and a 5 speed transmission with 4.56 gears and 31" tires and it ain't that bad in those. I did have to deal with head gaskets and it's not a fun job on these, also helped a friend fixing his soon after I did mine. I also had two 22RE, also needed head gaskets and timing chains. One of them got a bottom end knock. Both had the standard 4.10 gears. Differentials on 4 cylinder models are usually a bit weaker than on those on V6 models and don't expect having slower gears for bigger tires on those as they mostly had 4.10 gearing from the factory.
Here in Canada, not many pickups came with automatic transmissions, they were offered only on the Deluxe V6 models from this generations. The Canadian SR5 models didn't even offer the automatic as an option. You could get it in the 4 Runner and plenty of those with the V6 got them. For daily driving and for a stock vehicle, that automatic transmission is the thing I would avoid, not that it's bad (I've had two XJ Cherokees with a very similar transmission) but they do make these small trucks and 4 Runners feel even more underpowered and they do affect the fuel mileage too.
I still use my 1993 SR5 pickup as a daily driver. I got this one 15 years ago and I wish I could afford buying a low mileage one from the southern states but they sell for much more than what I could afford! I wish I had bought another one 10 years ago!
Just bought a 1997 2.7 toyota tacoma 4x4 last week with 20k on the odo......flawless! Drove it back from salt lake...after I put new tires on the truck. A collector had it....along with dozens more awesome vehicles! Timmy C Arizona
That truck has been sitting a long time! Any issues yet? What did you pay for it?
@@alibabaschultz352 zero issues....drives great! I paid premium for it.
Love my 22RE in the process of doing a 3 RZ swap
Biggest problem with the 3vze engine is the oil pump from the factory end up leaking around housing after a while giving no pressure. This could be fixed by putting Loctite on the bolts that hold it together.
3.0 is half way out 3.4 is going in my 22r has been running solid for the past 7years in my Daily 1980 🤙🤙🤙 miss watching you submarine that old green tank 😂
22r carbureted in my 87 pickup and 3rzfe in my 01 TRD off-road extracab Tacoma. Impressed with both really. Did timing chain clutchpack and too much else to list on the 87 and it now needs brakes. These original parts lasted to 270k and I preemptively replaced them. They probably could've gone longer but the truck was abused by previous owner. Also, I got the genuine OEM parts from yotashop. They're based out of Washington and did really good helping me get the parts. Check them out they also pick up the phone when u call and promptly respond to email.
my 94 4runner is still running strong, just went over 100,000 miles
The comment on lift and wheels first will never get old, so true people forget the basics. brakes for older toyota is a must as well. Just drive the car for 10,000kms over all terrains & journeys and the car will tell what you need for your style of drive and life style.
89 first gen runner 3.0 here . All completely rebuilt by me from bare block top to bottom and it rips. Heads set up by me also with the pucks.Oh yeah 5speed also. The most ridiculous part that was purchased from Toyota was the knock sensor and harness. It was 190 bucks. Very important to replace those knock sensors though. 22re piece of cake to work on. I’ve had those down to bare block rebuilds also. These motors seem to run better with a cam swap. Currently running the pro torquer cam from LC Engineering in my 85 x cab.
Hey bro I’m thinking of buying a 88 runner with the 3.0 and overhaul it like you did but do you think buying a separate 3.4 and building it would be more beneficial?
@@samr4300 As much as I love my runner and the 3.0 is working very well, I would say swap it as you have more support from the industry for the 3.4. If you want to keep the 3.0 though go headers or wrap the cross over exhaust with header wrap. I did neither and probably running on borrowed time. I used mostly fel pro gaskets for my build.
@@dandorris8531 I appreciate your input 🤙🏽
I have also found the 3RZ to pull better than my 2TR FE. I have one of each in my trucks. I like them both.
Yeah have a 3rz and a 22r, 3rz definitely makes more power than my mates 2tr and honestly the 22r is pretty close.
Nutty Nu, it's awesome to come across your video! Comparing moters, I was planning on building a slightly, higher perfomance 22RE 1990 stock motor on a stock pick up. Resale is about 10-12k because it's clean and stock. I want Economy, but I would also like Power and Torque. To be able to go faster than in 3rd gear going 45mph up mountain passes with all my camping and prospecting gear plus a heavy, 100lb 4 leg companion, to pass a car in limited distance, so I don't have to follow someone 10 miles under the speed limit when I could be going 10 over. I have drove Seatlle to Key West and in between never being pulled over doing 10 over. 12mph and beyond I have!😢 Over landing I would like to try, Deer I do, but Elk I need a larger family. just finding out the 3rz would give me 50 Hp over stock compared to building a 22r(e) to maybe 50 over stock is a no brainer. Plus a stock motor to boot! Question is, not that I would ever sell it, would a slightly modified 3rz motor in near clean sleeper truck- 33-35" rubber being the only give away, would that, in your opinion, raise or lower resale? And now you tell me of a 5rz! What are the possibilities? Screw resale, I would like something nice before I am to old to enjoy it! Help me out Nutty Nu, I love power, but I want cheap yet reliable too. Road trips and such with no break down thoughts on my mind in my journey's?
Go 3.4swap.
I wish I can let you drive mine. You would be amazed!!
Hey mate, I have a 22r with a carb on it and it has tons of power for its size. Goes just about as well as my 3rz. Have a mate who has an efi 22re with a turbo on it and has managed 300hp with stock internals and head. Also have a turbo 3rz in my LN65 with stock ecu but bigger injectors, different manifolds etc and makes about 350.
5vz-fe you can also get the legal supercharger AND Magnuson just came out with a new supercharger TVS1320 for the 20+ year old engine a year ago.
Overrated imo.
Question,
What's the wire at the end of the what seem to be a hardness, labeled 33, connected to? The wire at the end on the driver side, in which it drop down next to or below the alternator.
What about 3VZ-FE? it seems to be the same as 3vz-e but it looks totally different.
Unless you buy an old FWD Camry or an early Lexus ES 300, you won't get that engine. Not made for RWD applications. This DOHC engine was used just a few years and doesn't share much and can't interchange with the 3VZE found in pickups and 4Runners. Later Camry and ES300 models got the aluminum block 3.0 1MZ-FE
Hey NuttyNu, i love the videos, always so informative and helpful. Take care bud.
Glad you like them!
My trd supercharged fz is perfect thanks. Gas mileage blows but it’s so good
Very nice!
I just got a 95 tacoma with with a 5vzfe. The previous owner couldn’t figure out the random misfire/engine light. P0303 over and over. Put some fuel system cleaner (red line) and the code went away after about 100 miles of driving. I can still feel a misfire regardless but I noticed it needs a valve cover gasket. Leaking some oil from the back of he valve cover. Hopefully that will stop some of the misfire symptoms. I keep an eye out like a hawk on the coolant and oil. Are 5vzfe’s known for blown head gaskets?
You need to check spark plugs, coils pack and then also check injectors. That may be the culprit. 3.4 engine do start having hg issues after 200k miles or lack of maintenance on the coolant system
We got a 1995 Toyota 4Runner with a 3. Slow. I love that thing but gosh I wish it had much more power.
3.4 swap
@@NuttyNu yea, because I have the money for all of that.
I’m in the middle of deciding to purchase a 3.0 Manual or a 3.4 Auto. Both 4x4. Which would you purchase?
3.4
Thanks man. But also for mainly off-roading? I plan to do some moderate off-roading with 35s. Nothing too extreme.
3rz has valve problems huh, how many miles did the one with the burnt valve have? I see one for sale for 14,00 125k miles 5 speed and rear locker.. kind of pricey but probably last forever, what do you think?
I bought it with the issue already
They burn valves because people don't set the valve clearances. Over time they need to be reset.
@NuttyNu DO YOU KNOw IF A TRANSMISSION FROM 3.0 WILL WORK GOOD ON 3.4? BOTH 4X4
No
Hey form 🇦🇺 here and looking at getting a 3Rz Fe hilux ! And it’s only got 240,000 KM not mikes on it so how does the gas mileage go? And can it hold 60MP / 100 km well?
Does great!
My 3rz will hit 200 so you’ll definitely have no issues holding 100 haha. Have a turbo one in my 4wd and has tons of oowrr
the 2uz-fe motor is great also!
I have no experience with that one, yet.
You should try to type everything you need to say so we don't have to see your side effects of whatever you're doing.. buddy
Okay
Tf is this supposed to mean
Are you trying to say you don't understand his accent? Buddy, there's a little button on the bottom of the screen for closed captions.
I get it. it was a bad comment. I apologize, @nuttynu guy. Your work is really impressive, really is.