Wish I had looked at video a little sooner. I thought my alternator on my 1995 Ranger 500k miles had gone bad put in a new one. I replaced brushes first no change. New alternator same problem. After looking at your video I found fried wire harness. Off to Pullapart to find another. Thanks!
My son was having the same problem. But....I saw a faint puff of smoke coming from the positive terminal when he would try to start it. When THAT happens, check your connection at the terminals. I pulled it off by hand, and you could see darker lead color, NOT the shininess you expect to see from a clean terminal. The old "pocket knife lightly scraping off the corrosion" trick resulting in (yep, you guessed it) IGNITION! So ALWAYS check for a good connection at all points BEFORE you start throwing parts at a problem.......just like you said. 👍 Great video!!!
Sir, I cannot begin to yell you how you saved me. I currently have 5 pieces of equipment broke down and then this ranger died. I was at the end of my rope. This was exactly what happened to us. Thank you thank you thank you
It is a working and fixing meter preferred by those that resolve the unresolvable… LOL. Must be why it spawned a twin over the ocean in your shop. When the chips are down grab a Fluke or four. Thanks for watching.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 I prefer Fieldpiece to fluke these days 😆😂🤣 mainly because I can connect it to my job link app and can monitor it from my phone while I adjust or make changes instead of needing my helper(wife/kid) to make the change or monitor. Thanks for the info. I've been working on vehicles for almost 27yrs and sometimes overlook or just don't think of every possible scenario and sometimes the extra brain helps. Thank you
When you have your potentiometer hooked up in line with alternator yellow wire (under load) you have your common lead under the negative battery terminal but where exactly are you probing the the red lead that looks to go towards the alternator? Is it stuffed in the back of the connector that goes into the alternator?
Thanks for video pretty sure this is my issue. Did a head gasket on 2.3 ranger and after i got it back together the alternator won't charge, guessing when I moved harness around I broke the signal wire somewhere
I have been chasing a similar issue with my 01 Ranger 2.3L. My battery gauge in the dash will slowly go to low while driving. Changed the alternator, battery and starter (which was heavily corroded). Power distribution box and contacts are fine. I am frustrated but this video is the first one to give me hope. I tried to comment earlier but where did you stick your potentiometer lead at the alternator to test volt drop while running??
I did the voltmeter lead from the battery post to the A terminal on the alternator. A DVOM will always display the difference in voltage - between the battery and the regulator there should be essentially nothing lost. In my case the resistance was not providing enough current to properly power the alternator field coil. The resistance showed up when the current flow started. Look close the regulator should be marked. I think it was the yellow wire. It will be the heavy gauge (thicker) of the three wires to the regulator. The voltage should be near zero with the engine running and charging. Any measurable difference in voltage represents (resistance) between the battery and the regulator. The trick is you must have current flowing (charging) for the test to work. Three regulator terminals are A(battery voltage to drive the field coil in the alternator rotor) S - when charging this is from the alternator stator and will be approx half the charging voltage, and I or indicator lamp circuit which is needed to initialize the regulator to start the charging process. Otherwise it would drain the battery with the ignition off. Miss any of the three and it won’t charge. If you want you can take a test lamp from battery positive to the I terminal and check the indicator circuit. The test lamp will act just like the cluster on the vehicle.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 as far as I know the regulator is built into my alternator on my 2.3L 2001 XLT. The only contacts on the back of my alternator is the positive post (B post I assume) and a connector which only has two wires to it (one of them being yellow I believe). Should I put my lead to the positive post or try to slide a pin into the back of the connector where the yellow wire is? I really appreciate the response, this problem has been plaguing me for months as I have been under time constraints. Three batteries, three alternators and a starter. Have considered driving it into the river on multiple occasions.
@@TheTurb Is your regulator bolted to the alternator with four screws? Sorry working from memory. Or, just a connector plugged into the alternator body (two wires)?
Okay Yellow White should be the A circuit from the battery. The big output cable from the alternator should be Black and maybe an orange stripe. The Light Green and Red is the indicator light circuit. I am looking at the factory wiring diagram .
Looks like two different alternators used. Good news rules are the same just no extra S wire. Check voltage on yellow wire with key on. Should hold equal to battery voltage. If lower carefully jump from battery terminal to yellow white wire. See if that works for you to get charging. If it does you likely have the same thing I experienced. If not disconnect the two pin connector and check for battery voltage on red green wire with the key on. If nothing you have an open in the I circuit from the dash to the alternator or to the dash from the ignition switch. Is the charging lamp on?
I got the 1633code kap..2001 Ford r Ranger .if i do the by passing , should i buy a long 13g wire and conect it from the battery to the alternator (a)???
12 or 14 gauge should be fine. At max charge the alternator field coil draw is under 5 amps. You can install an inline fuse if you want. Ford had no circuit protection (fuse) inline. Won’t make a difference, but is a safety measure for your own satisfaction.
Battery positive (I recommend a fused lead) to the battery A terminal. Look on the back of the regulator for the wire terminal naming. “A” is the one you want for this specific condition.
Took the yellow wire out of the splice and picked up (fused power) from the power distribution box. The load will be around 4-6 amps max. So a 10 amp fuse will be just fine.
Nope, it is headed to the “A” terminal on the Alternator. I am bypassing the poor splice location and providing a direct battery voltage feed. The splice is at a very vulnerable spot and will always get road splash and salt introduction is likely.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 I stuck a sewing needle behind my green wire on the connection at the alternator... To my surprise the alternator seemed to be working now.. like the needle is giving it a better connection or something.. is that likely?
Check power as noted in video. Very high chance you have similar situation.. You can test by bypassing the wiring harness (careful for shorts). If it charges back your way into the specific circuit.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 I test battery and its giving me the same numbers 11.20 to 1130 The alternator harness has power But the wire from battery to alternator Has 33 to 35 Fuses are good . But today after work i will try that you show in the video . Thx.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 hope you still read your comments I have a question I have a 2011 malibu my battery light came on but before that it took a few seconds to start up now I have to do it twice before it starts, got home turned the car off and battery light was gone I then pressed on the gas and bam light back on! Oh and the negative cable was loose last few days the belt had a faint wisle any advice I live in a town with greedy mechanics! Had a series 3 grand pre the water pump locked up I paid 700 turns out he forgot to fill up the antifreeze let the car run over heating while he went into his house to eat smh messed up my whole engine lol
I tapped at the battery junction box port direct from the battery. Hot at all times is fine for this connection since it is controlled by the regulator for the alternator field winding. I did add in a fuse connector to the yellow wire just in case. Thanks for watching. Based on the location of the splice I would expect this to be a concern on longer service units.
Wish I had looked at video a little sooner. I thought my alternator on my 1995 Ranger 500k miles had gone bad put in a new one. I replaced brushes first no change. New alternator same problem. After looking at your video I found fried wire harness. Off to Pullapart to find another. Thanks!
My son was having the same problem. But....I saw a faint puff of smoke coming from the positive terminal when he would try to start it. When THAT happens, check your connection at the terminals. I pulled it off by hand, and you could see darker lead color, NOT the shininess you expect to see from a clean terminal. The old "pocket knife lightly scraping off the corrosion" trick resulting in (yep, you guessed it) IGNITION!
So ALWAYS check for a good connection at all points BEFORE you start throwing parts at a problem.......just like you said. 👍 Great video!!!
Sir, I cannot begin to yell you how you saved me. I currently have 5 pieces of equipment broke down and then this ranger died. I was at the end of my rope. This was exactly what happened to us. Thank you thank you thank you
You are most welcome. Glad it turned out well.
All the best
Dan
Great video. Nothing new to me, but truth is; I needed reminding. Saved me a lot of thinking. Subscribed.
So did I. LOL.
Thank you sooooooo much sir! I just had the same problem, you save me!
Nice diagnosis and theory lecture. The green crusties strike again!😁
Thanks Joe. This is one area that unlike machining I have a bit of depth to call on. LOL.
I have a sticker here waiting on how to get your address.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 Dan, I can't seem to get a reply to stick. My email address is on the About tab on my CZcams page.
You been in my workshop and borrowed my meter ??
I'm sure that's mine you are using !
Best I go check I think 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Nicely done Dan 👍🏻👍🏻
It is a working and fixing meter preferred by those that resolve the unresolvable… LOL. Must be why it spawned a twin over the ocean in your shop. When the chips are down grab a Fluke or four.
Thanks for watching.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 I prefer Fieldpiece to fluke these days 😆😂🤣 mainly because I can connect it to my job link app and can monitor it from my phone while I adjust or make changes instead of needing my helper(wife/kid) to make the change or monitor. Thanks for the info. I've been working on vehicles for almost 27yrs and sometimes overlook or just don't think of every possible scenario and sometimes the extra brain helps. Thank you
@@The_Mycilium_Maestro Most welcome and thanks for the tip on Fieldpiece.
I believe I have this problem. Just changed the battery, but not charging. I will check this tomorrow. thanks
Let me know if you need anything else.
Exelente video justo era mi problema más videos asi
When you have your potentiometer hooked up in line with alternator yellow wire (under load) you have your common lead under the negative battery terminal but where exactly are you probing the the red lead that looks to go towards the alternator? Is it stuffed in the back of the connector that goes into the alternator?
Thanks for video pretty sure this is my issue. Did a head gasket on 2.3 ranger and after i got it back together the alternator won't charge, guessing when I moved harness around I broke the signal wire somewhere
I'm noticing that there is no sign of voltage on the
So I just changed my alternator it’s not faulty or anything but my battery light is still on what do you recommend I do?
Well found Dan, saved yourself some money there. Great fix. Cheers, Jon
Very kind of you Jon. Thanks for dropping by.
Did you run the yellow wire to the fuse box down to the starter
I went the easy route to the fuse box under the hood. Going to the starter would work but it would borrow trouble with time.
I have been chasing a similar issue with my 01 Ranger 2.3L. My battery gauge in the dash will slowly go to low while driving. Changed the alternator, battery and starter (which was heavily corroded). Power distribution box and contacts are fine. I am frustrated but this video is the first one to give me hope. I tried to comment earlier but where did you stick your potentiometer lead at the alternator to test volt drop while running??
I did the voltmeter lead from the battery post to the A terminal on the alternator. A DVOM will always display the difference in voltage - between the battery and the regulator there should be essentially nothing lost. In my case the resistance was not providing enough current to properly power the alternator field coil. The resistance showed up when the current flow started.
Look close the regulator should be marked. I think it was the yellow wire. It will be the heavy gauge (thicker) of the three wires to the regulator. The voltage should be near zero with the engine running and charging. Any measurable difference in voltage represents (resistance) between the battery and the regulator. The trick is you must have current flowing (charging) for the test to work. Three regulator terminals are A(battery voltage to drive the field coil in the alternator rotor) S - when charging this is from the alternator stator and will be approx half the charging voltage, and I or indicator lamp circuit which is needed to initialize the regulator to start the charging process. Otherwise it would drain the battery with the ignition off. Miss any of the three and it won’t charge. If you want you can take a test lamp from battery positive to the I terminal and check the indicator circuit. The test lamp will act just like the cluster on the vehicle.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 as far as I know the regulator is built into my alternator on my 2.3L 2001 XLT. The only contacts on the back of my alternator is the positive post (B post I assume) and a connector which only has two wires to it (one of them being yellow I believe). Should I put my lead to the positive post or try to slide a pin into the back of the connector where the yellow wire is? I really appreciate the response, this problem has been plaguing me for months as I have been under time constraints. Three batteries, three alternators and a starter. Have considered driving it into the river on multiple occasions.
@@TheTurb Is your regulator bolted to the alternator with four screws? Sorry working from memory. Or, just a connector plugged into the alternator body (two wires)?
Okay Yellow White should be the A circuit from the battery. The big output cable from the alternator should be Black and maybe an orange stripe. The Light Green and Red is the indicator light circuit. I am looking at the factory wiring diagram .
Looks like two different alternators used. Good news rules are the same just no extra S wire. Check voltage on yellow wire with key on. Should hold equal to battery voltage. If lower carefully jump from battery terminal to yellow white wire. See if that works for you to get charging. If it does you likely have the same thing I experienced. If not disconnect the two pin connector and check for battery voltage on red green wire with the key on. If nothing you have an open in the I circuit from the dash to the alternator or to the dash from the ignition switch. Is the charging lamp on?
I got the 1633code kap..2001 Ford r Ranger .if i do the by passing , should i buy a long 13g wire and conect it from the battery to the alternator (a)???
12 or 14 gauge should be fine. At max charge the alternator field coil draw is under 5 amps. You can install an inline fuse if you want. Ford had no circuit protection (fuse) inline. Won’t make a difference, but is a safety measure for your own satisfaction.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 thanks you was struggling for 3months with it,I went AutoZone and they say Eto buy q computer.
How did you hook up the jumper wire what locations ?
Battery positive (I recommend a fused lead) to the battery A terminal. Look on the back of the regulator for the wire terminal naming. “A” is the one you want for this specific condition.
why does my 2004 4.0 Ranger have an exciter plug? No one even knows what that is. Not even the internet. Someone is going to Find me On the Road Dead.
In my case I replace the starter, alternator and the battery....
Fires right up with the jump box, take the jump box off the engine die
Yup that would do it.
How did you do the bypass?
Took the yellow wire out of the splice and picked up (fused power) from the power distribution box. The load will be around 4-6 amps max. So a 10 amp fuse will be just fine.
Is A... The starter? Yellow white going to starter?
Nope, it is headed to the “A” terminal on the Alternator. I am bypassing the poor splice location and providing a direct battery voltage feed. The splice is at a very vulnerable spot and will always get road splash and salt introduction is likely.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 I stuck a sewing needle behind my green wire on the connection at the alternator... To my surprise the alternator seemed to be working now.. like the needle is giving it a better connection or something.. is that likely?
Same problem i have now
With my 98 ford 3.0
Battery stay on
Meter inside don't move up
I change alternator
And battery.
But its still the same.
Check power as noted in video. Very high chance you have similar situation.. You can test by bypassing the wiring harness (careful for shorts). If it charges back your way into the specific circuit.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537
I test battery and its giving me the same numbers 11.20 to 1130
The alternator harness has power
But the wire from battery to alternator
Has 33 to 35
Fuses are good .
But today after work i will try that you show in the video .
Thx.
Something different.
Yup - old dark mechanic magic saved the day.... LOL. Thanks for watching Mike.
My alternator charging 14,2 when i go for 10 min it drop to 13v and stop at 12,9 and back when i stop to 13,5??
On grand marquis 2001
Should be the same general setup. The voltage moving around can be a bad connection to the A terminal. Or, the brushes are making a poor connection.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 no one can fix it and with sound system battry will run out🥺
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 i dont think grand marquis 2001 haveing charging system in the pcm??
thank You, your the man!
My battery light is still on after replacing the battery and the alternator
Sounds like you have a wiring issue perhaps similar to the video.
@@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537 hope you still read your comments I have a question I have a 2011 malibu my battery light came on but before that it took a few seconds to start up now I have to do it twice before it starts, got home turned the car off and battery light was gone I then pressed on the gas and bam light back on! Oh and the negative cable was loose last few days the belt had a faint wisle any advice I live in a town with greedy mechanics! Had a series 3 grand pre the water pump locked up I paid 700 turns out he forgot to fill up the antifreeze let the car run over heating while he went into his house to eat smh messed up my whole engine lol
Found on road dead.. good call Dr. Dan..
Well maybe I retained a bit of knowledge from my wasted youth. LOL.
Fuel prices drop I want to come down for a visit.
Ok so where did you connect the yellow wire too
I tapped at the battery junction box port direct from the battery. Hot at all times is fine for this connection since it is controlled by the regulator for the alternator field winding. I did add in a fuse connector to the yellow wire just in case. Thanks for watching. Based on the location of the splice I would expect this to be a concern on longer service units.