Great video. Have the identical issue with a B/S Platinum 7.25. Very much like the center punch idea. I still have to deal with installing the "valve keeper" without owning a small "valve spring compression tool". It's very difficult to install. Thanks :-)
I had the same thing happen to my Briggs and Stratton pressure washer, I noticed it wasn't running good all of a sudden. The next day I went to go use it and didn't start! I started checking stuff, come to find out I had no compression. Took the head off and the intake valve seat was a little cocked just enough to loose all compression. Tapped it back in with a brass drift, new head gasket about $8 and good as new. Just have to figure out what caused it to over heat.
Same here. But as he said in another post, they have a compression release to make starting easier. With the pull rope, you'll never get over about 60 psi. You have to get it spinning fast so the compression release mechanism is no longer in play. That's why he uses a drill.
Thank you sir. This same thing happened to my (2000) 13hp B&S. I followed your video except for my head bolt torque was 165in/lbs. My compression wasn't what I thought it would be after I put everything back together but it will blow your finger off the spark plug hole. Seems to be performing just as well as before this happened. Hopefully I'll get another 20 years out of it thanks again.
Awesome video Wild Bill !! I am trying to teach myself and learn about small engine repair. I have been watching tons of videos and reading lots. I have made numerous repairs to my own stuff and have saved a few discarded machines from the dump. I really liked this video and I have to ask though,,,,, what made you decide to go right for removing the head ? That, for me, is kind of intimidating and something that I would have tried last. Was there something of a clue that made you do that ? Because whatever made you do that, saved you tons of time. Another thing I liked is that you explained what you were doing at each step and mentioned the time it actually takes to perform certain tasks. Thanks for the video and GREAT troubleshooting and repair.
Thanks for the comment! I went straight for the head because it had no compression at all. In my experience when there's 0 compression it's usually valve problems or possibly ring/block problems. With a flat head motor, popping the head is pretty easy so I went for it first. If it was an OHV motor I would have done the valve cover first to see if the valves needed adjusting. But on a flat head, 99% of the time the head needs to come off if it has no compression.
@@billyb351 , thanks for the reply. And for the information on the differences between the engine designs. I knew there were differences but wasn't aware of how that made a difference in troubleshooting. Thanks again
If you were just pulling it what would the compression be because that engine has a compression release built-in and you’re not able to spin it as quickly
I hope this is all that's wrong with mine! Zero Compression on the 2nd use of its 3rd mowing season. Chinese Briggs and Stratton sucks! I used to be able to trust Sears Craftsman quality in self-propelled push mowers, so I bought one of the last from a Sears here, but no more. 😒 I found a new replacement for $200 about a year ago, but when I learned about Chinese Briggs and Stratton small engines, I said, Never mind. All Craftsman product quality has gone to crap since manufacturing was sent to China. I've seen tool comparison videos with several brands' tools compared to older Craftsman tools and the newer ones. *Run, Forrest, Run!!!*
Not to criticize too much, but if you had turned the crank/flywheel until the valve with the slipped seat was all the way open you could have pushed the seat into the lock and tapped it lightly then your valve would have seated when turned to the seated position. This would have allowed your tool to work as there would have been much more spring to be able to compress. Otherwise it was a useful and informative video.
If I was doing it again I probably would have done that. I might have even reseated the seat with the valve itself before taking the spring out. Still needs to come apart in the end to lap the valve in, but it probably would have gone faster.
i have a one year old mower that was low on oil and slightly locked up, but i got it unlocked easily. the valves are not moving at all. when i pull the rope there is no compression, only a ticking sound. i dont know what im doing but im learning as i go. is there any hope for this mower? ty
That sounds serious. If the valves don't move it sounds like something internal to the crankcase is probably broken. You'll have to open it up and see...
I got a craft man lawn mower 6 hp got with bend blade I thought would b an easy fix,clean carb ,clean oil,,clean fuel, spark plug clean just a bit withe stuff n good spark, but no sound at all, dead. what could b the issue?
billy goat 600 vacuum with briggs quantum 625 engine. Mine had good compression but would not start no matter what I did. So I removed flywheel and key was good. Dug into the engine and saw the same exact thing in your video. The seat had come out. I can't see it being from heat though. There was dirt stuck to the engine but nothing crazy. Im more worried about the cylinder wall. There is some scoring. What a p.o.s. machine. You actually have to take the engine completely off to change the belt on this thing! That means removing everything!
0:55 I'm only this far in and I'm gonna guess leaky intake valve gummed up with fuel, although I wouldn't be surprised if the cylinder is shot because that noise could be blowby too
There's no hard and fast number but anything over 100 psi is very good. They have a compression release to make starting easier. With the pull rope you'll never get over about 60 psi. You have to get it spinning fast so the compression release mechanism is no longer in play. That's why I use a drill.
Be careful spinning the engine over with an impact wrench when under compression because I cracked the flywheel on a Honda lawnmower by doing it that way as it sits on a tapered shaft. I tighten the cylinder bolts up to a 16 Newton Metre torque figure since my torque wrench is in either Newton Metres or foot pounds. I fitted new piston rings into my Briggs & Stratton 3 hp lawn mower engine & the compression tested at 92 PSI so I'm not sure if the piston rings are still breaking in or not The piston ring gap was 1.15mm which was over the reject size of 0.80mm,the new ring gap measured at 0.2mm,it burns a little oil so I'm not sure if that's normal during the break in period,it hasn't used oil like it used to but where it went through 200 mLs of oil in 1 hour of use !
1 month ago (this was Wild_Bill 's answer to Terry Pope below) I use a larger regular corded drill to turn it, not an impact. Because it's not an impact, I can use regular sockets.
![How to Fix This Briggs And Stratton Engine With No Compression [EX 550]](/img/n.gif)
GREAT VIDEO.. I CHECK THE ALUMINUM HEAD FOR WARPAGE WITH A LARGE SHEET OF SANDPAPER..RETIRED LARRY FROM INDIANAPOLIS...
You’re a rock star!!! Great job 👏
You were just waiting to use your new spring tool. Those valve spring tools take a "Feel" That is an old school fix. Good for you Bill.
Thanks Bruce, I always wanted to try fixing one of those popped out valve seats. This is the first time I have come across it.
@@billyb351 cool
Great video. Have the identical issue with a B/S Platinum 7.25. Very much like the center punch idea. I still have to deal with installing the "valve keeper" without owning a small "valve spring compression tool". It's very difficult to install. Thanks :-)
Nice video dude! I'll keep this problem in mind for the next time I stroll across a mower with a nest in it
Nice video
I do that all the time, unhook the spark plug for safety, and then forget to hook it back up.
good job
I had the same thing happen to my Briggs and Stratton pressure washer, I noticed it wasn't running good all of a sudden. The next day I went to go use it and didn't start! I started checking stuff, come to find out I had no compression. Took the head off and the intake valve seat was a little cocked just enough to loose all compression. Tapped it back in with a brass drift, new head gasket about $8 and good as new. Just have to figure out what caused it to over heat.
Good job..TU...I don't have a single mower with compression over 50-55 and they all run just fine.
Same here. But as he said in another post, they have a compression release to make starting easier. With the pull rope, you'll never get over about 60 psi. You have to get it spinning fast so the compression release mechanism is no longer in play. That's why he uses a drill.
in the beginning, you can gently tap that seat back into place to get the valve to suck back in and get the ring out.
Maestro!
Engine overheated due to debris under shroud, dropped the intake valve seat, thus no compression.
Thank you. Was most helpful. I was wondering how you turn the crankshaft with your impact to check the compression. Is that a standard socket?
I use a larger regular corded drill to turn it, not an impact. Because it's not an impact, I can use regular sockets.
Good job..... I subbed.
How didn't those punch marks affect the seal and tolerance between the head and block?
Thank you sir. This same thing happened to my (2000) 13hp B&S. I followed your video except for my head bolt torque was 165in/lbs. My compression wasn't what I thought it would be after I put everything back together but it will blow your finger off the spark plug hole. Seems to be performing just as well as before this happened. Hopefully I'll get another 20 years out of it thanks again.
Awesome video Wild Bill !! I am trying to teach myself and learn about small engine repair. I have been watching tons of videos and reading lots. I have made numerous repairs to my own stuff and have saved a few discarded machines from the dump. I really liked this video and I have to ask though,,,,, what made you decide to go right for removing the head ? That, for me, is kind of intimidating and something that I would have tried last. Was there something of a clue that made you do that ? Because whatever made you do that, saved you tons of time. Another thing I liked is that you explained what you were doing at each step and mentioned the time it actually takes to perform certain tasks. Thanks for the video and GREAT troubleshooting and repair.
Thanks for the comment! I went straight for the head because it had no compression at all. In my experience when there's 0 compression it's usually valve problems or possibly ring/block problems. With a flat head motor, popping the head is pretty easy so I went for it first. If it was an OHV motor I would have done the valve cover first to see if the valves needed adjusting. But on a flat head, 99% of the time the head needs to come off if it has no compression.
@@billyb351 , thanks for the reply. And for the information on the differences between the engine designs. I knew there were differences but wasn't aware of how that made a difference in troubleshooting. Thanks again
First thing I do is a leak down test because if valves not seating nothing else matters
If you were just pulling it what would the compression be because that engine has a compression release built-in and you’re not able to spin it as quickly
LMFAO at the Spark plug wire being unplugged!! you don't know how many times that has happened to me! glad I'm not the only one! Great Vid!
I hope this is all that's wrong with mine! Zero Compression on the 2nd use of its 3rd mowing season. Chinese Briggs and Stratton sucks! I used to be able to trust Sears Craftsman quality in self-propelled push mowers, so I bought one of the last from a Sears here, but no more. 😒 I found a new replacement for $200 about a year ago, but when I learned about Chinese Briggs and Stratton small engines, I said, Never mind. All Craftsman product quality has gone to crap since manufacturing was sent to China. I've seen tool comparison videos with several brands' tools compared to older Craftsman tools and the newer ones. *Run, Forrest, Run!!!*
Wild_Bill : ty
👍
Not to criticize too much, but if you had turned the crank/flywheel until the valve with the slipped seat was all the way open you could have pushed the seat into the lock and tapped it lightly then your valve would have seated when turned to the seated position. This would have allowed your tool to work as there would have been much more spring to be able to compress. Otherwise it was a useful and informative video.
If I was doing it again I probably would have done that. I might have even reseated the seat with the valve itself before taking the spring out. Still needs to come apart in the end to lap the valve in, but it probably would have gone faster.
@@billyb351 That is a good observation, I believe your on the right track.
if i had low compression,would it at least sound like it's trying to start?
Possibly. Depends how low. If it has zero compression nothing at all would happen.
I would have clean block first and then pind seat and remove both valves and lap them
Paint head gasket with aluminum paint and install it
i have a one year old mower that was low on oil and slightly locked up, but i got it unlocked easily. the valves are not moving at all. when i pull the rope there is no compression, only a ticking sound. i dont know what im doing but im learning as i go. is there any hope for this mower? ty
That sounds serious. If the valves don't move it sounds like something internal to the crankcase is probably broken. You'll have to open it up and see...
@@billyb351 thanks...sold that thing and moved on..ty
What is a good compression tester? Best place to find them ?
HF has best kit for lowest price and it’s a good set
I use it now
I got a craft man lawn mower 6 hp got with bend blade I thought would b an easy fix,clean carb ,clean oil,,clean fuel, spark plug clean just a bit withe stuff n good spark, but no sound at all, dead. what could b the issue?
Does it have decent compression? You need air/fuel, spark and compression to run. How about spark timing? Flywheel key still good?
@@billyb351 no .key is broken,
@@billyb351 ,then maybe compression, cus blade is really bad, is not a crank at all,spark looks nice and blue.
@@luilui03able If the key is broken, it won't run because the timing will be off.
billy goat 600 vacuum with briggs quantum 625 engine. Mine had good compression but would not start no matter what I did. So I removed flywheel and key was good. Dug into the engine and saw the same exact thing in your video. The seat had come out. I can't see it being from heat though. There was dirt stuck to the engine but nothing crazy. Im more worried about the cylinder wall. There is some scoring. What a p.o.s. machine. You actually have to take the engine completely off to change the belt on this thing! That means removing everything!
what torque wrench is that? i am finding it hard to buy one that torques in inch pounds
That torque wrench is a Snap On QD1R200.
Matco or Snapon
But that’s what I have when I retired
No! Just use the valve to seat the seat into the block.
25 seconds in and I can already tell you it's a stuck valve
Where do you get valve removal tool?
I believe I got that on ebay. Found the best price for the actual Briggs valve tool.
0:55 I'm only this far in and I'm gonna guess leaky intake valve gummed up with fuel, although I wouldn't be surprised if the cylinder is shot because that noise could be blowby too
I was close!
Hello , What is correct compression for B&S motor 190cc ?
There's no hard and fast number but anything over 100 psi is very good. They have a compression release to make starting easier. With the pull rope you'll never get over about 60 psi. You have to get it spinning fast so the compression release mechanism is no longer in play. That's why I use a drill.
@@billyb351 Thank you!!! This is the info I've been looking for. I'm at 55 with the rope. Time to break out the drill!
Be careful spinning the engine over with an impact wrench when under compression because I cracked the flywheel on a Honda lawnmower by doing it that way as it sits on a tapered shaft.
I tighten the cylinder bolts up to a 16 Newton Metre torque figure since my torque wrench is in either Newton Metres or foot pounds.
I fitted new piston rings into my Briggs & Stratton 3 hp lawn mower engine & the compression tested at 92 PSI so I'm not sure if the piston rings are still breaking in or not
The piston ring gap was 1.15mm which was over the reject size of 0.80mm,the new ring gap measured at 0.2mm,it burns a little oil so I'm not sure if that's normal during the break in period,it hasn't used oil like it used to but where it went through 200 mLs of oil in 1 hour of use !
1 month ago (this was Wild_Bill
's answer to
Terry Pope below)
I use a larger regular corded drill to turn it, not an impact. Because it's not an impact, I can use regular sockets.
I bet it's got no compression.
You are not the first owner its have this trouble, when the are one troble too with this enges, the valveclerane been too tight
Same as usual making money from someone elses junk
More skills than the one that threw it away. Shops near $100 per hour