190SL rear axle overview
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- We describe work that has been done and needs to be done to a 190SL rear axle. There was too much clearance between the ring and pinion. When we opened the dif, the bearings were well worn, too. Overall, it was needed work.
Great job , any videos to putting all these parts together?
Hey Sam, thanks for viewing and commenting. No, do not have vid on assembly. It would take many hours of video time that i would need to edit. At this time I do not have a video editing app on the computer. The last one I had was a nightmare to use. If you or anyone can recommend a video editing app, please let me know. Thank you, Will.
Do you recall the torque spec for the groove nut that retains the pinion seal and rear driveshaft yoke?
Thanks again for all the information you've provided it has been extremely helpfull
I looked it up. 15-20 mkg or 108-144 ft/lbs. I know that is quite a spread. Biggest issue you will have is keeping the tool in the grooved nut. The tool wants to slip out when under that much torque. You will need at least 2 people, maybe 3. One to operate the torque wrench, one to try and keep the wrench in contact with the nut, and one to keep the rear axle from moving. Best of luck. And thanks for watching.
Could explain how to remove the wheel bearing off the rear axle? I'm am working on one of these right now 5/20/21 and replacing all the seals towards the axle end and want to replace the seal that is inside the axle retainer plate. Then reinstall a new bearing once its going back togethor. I cannot figure out how to remove this bearing without the recommended puller tool in the Mercedes 190 service manual
I have a new seal kit. Bearing. Locking plate and groove nut and the groove nut wrench I've removed the old groove nut and locking plate however am unsure how to remove the bearing without the puller tool. And would like to avoid cutting it off
Hello and thanks for watching. Since you have the 190 manual you can see a photo of the tool the factory used. We rigged up a version of this tool using readily available parts: a bearing puller plate with threaded holes in it, all-thread rod, and an axle puller on the opposite end. These are the part numbers of the tools we use: OTC 952, Snap-On CJ-123-1, CJ83-2, CJ84-16. I just typed in the first 2 numbers in Google and both are for sale USED on Ebay. This will be a capital investment for you. You might see if you can rent the. Good luck.
Thank you very much!! Got it all removed now and new backing plate and seal installed. I'm ready to press in the new bearing. So the old bearing wasnt greased at all. Are these bearings somehow lubricated by the gear oil? That seemed unlikely to me sense the axle tube seal would prevent that from allowing gear oil to the bearing. Just thought that was strange the old bearing wasnt greased
Rear axle outer bearings ARE packed just like a front wheel bearing. They do NOT get lube from the dif. Pack the bearings before installation on the shaft.
czcams.com/video/2lJMC6CISMo/video.html Don't do it like this guy did at 13:50, that makes the job harder and does not guarantee you get grease into the balls.
Hello, great work and explanations, would you be able to give me some advice, I have just replaced the fuel tank in my friends SL190 1963, I removed the wheels but when i went to fit the wheels I noticed the RHS axle had approx 5mm end float! however it had no radial movement ,the other wheel is fine, after watching your video, it shows the axle assemblys on your bench, do these bearings have a retaining collar that holds them in place? Im assuming the RHS may have come loose? maybe you could shed some light on this? Thanks for your time, Mark.
Hey Mark, thanks for viewing and the question. I suppose it is possible for the bearing/shaft to have come loose, but doubt it. The RH bearing is supposed to be a self-centering bearing and you may be feeling that. But 5mm end float seems excessive.
I will talk it over with others and see if I am missing something.
Yes, the bearings are held in place by a collar and a lock ring. This video shows this at about the 8:00 mark and later:
czcams.com/video/2lJMC6CISMo/video.html
I think the bearings should have been packed before installing on the axle. Also, the correct style wrench for tightening the collar is not that costly or hard to find. I could suggest getting it and using a cheater pipe to tighten the collar very well. But past that, from what I could see the guy is on the right path
.
Bending the lock ring is a bitch. It is a seriously stout piece of steel.
I hope this helps.
Will
@@Mercedes-Guru Thankyou for your quick response, I agree with all you have mentioned, I have the correct tooling for this type of repair, I am unfamiliar with this make model and year! I didn't want to jump in and it be conducive to this vehicle. In fore sight it probably would be best to remove and check I think, this end float is not something I would look past on later model vehicles. Thanks again for your time, appreciated. Mark.
@@ovenden34 You will need to remove the brakes, hard line to the wheel cylinder, hand brake, etc. then undo the 7mm bolts holding the backing plate to the axle. Use a slide hammer and the axle shaft et al will come out without much issue. Best of luck.
Which way does the shaft slide on the slip joint? Does it go towards the front or back of the car?
Hey @lachiemcatty9177, thanks for viewing and your question. Are you talking about the slip joint mentioned at 4:15 in the video? It goes at the rear of the car, bolted to the flange seen at 2:12. Let me know if that answers your question. Thanks, Will
Is it possible to have some suggestion or guide about reassembleng pignon and regulate it after new beraring installation?
czcams.com/video/dAqAqODmcj4/video.html
czcams.com/video/9hFDgqq_dhw/video.html
czcams.com/video/_41c8SHMGL0/video.html
czcams.com/video/wEBoEN01P0M/video.html
Hey Francesco, I hope these links will help you. These people can do a better job of explaining it than I can.