@thepragmaticluthier You sure explained very well every step. Great job! I've had this classical for over 30yrs. It was made in Paracho, Michoacan México. Well, finally the bridge came off. I've gone thru all the steps of scraping off old glue. It was made for flamenco playing & so it has a clear plastic protector which marks the placing of the bridge. You've given me great ideas on the proper clamping procedures. Thank you sir! Now all I need is to find the proper clamps. Are they 6.5 inch clamps? Gracias señor! Juan T.- Colombia S.A.
From Yrs of Cabinet work, I Started using . simple Plastic Straws for my glue clean up ! Simply Pinch the end of the straw about a inch and Pull it to make a Crease ! Push that Crease around the seam and it will scoop it right up , and not stick to your straw !
Thank you for this. Fortunately, I was given a lot of plastic, (left overs), much of it Lexan, from a manufacturing plant in various thicknesses. and quite large sizes. I will be making a lot of jigs.
That's unenviable position you're in. All of that stuff is SO useful and very expensive if you have to pay retail. Congratulations on your acquisition and do enjoy making the tooling as well as the guitars.
very nice!......so if your using radius dish you have sanded the bottom clamping caul to match ?...thats the way ive been doing it for ever.......love your work.
I like your registration method - are your "pins" simply wire of the appropriate size or are you using Allen wrenches or other, please? And I like the padding on the clamps - I've never thought to do that.
I use 1/16" brazing rod because it won't corrode if it comes in contact with glue. It's more flexible than I prefer so the pins need to be replaced after a few months of use, but I then use the old ones for side dot inlays in fingerboards. I really am The Pragmatic Luthier.
I'm certainly glad that you're deriving benefit from my videos. The cat's name is "Cat". She came to us having been abandoned, nearly ten years ago. I won't have cats in the house, but she has a nicely heated house in our pole barn, complete with heated water in winter. She gets the best veterinary care and food that money can buy. She roams into the shop when the door is open and frequently stays for an hour or two. She's the best mouser I've ever seen.
A 16" caul is used to conform to the top of the bridge, which is curved to an approximate 16". It spreads clamping pressure across the center section of the bridge. A caul under the bridge patch, inside the body is positively domed to match the domed radius of the top, usually 25' or 30' . The topic domed and the underside of the bridge is domed to match the top. I hope this helps clarify.
@@thepragmaticluthier Many thanks for supporting my modest activities in guitar building. I understand that You radius the bridgeunderside to 25, 30 or 40 feet radius like you want the dome in the guitar top. But why do You radius the caul to 16" radius, is that to give some extra push to avoid spring back? The bridgeplate needs also to get curved to have an absolute perfect dome? I like the positive, non comercial, easy feel of Your videos, it´s honest!
I glue the bridge patch to the top using a caul that matches to radius of the top, 25, 30 or 40 feet. The 16" arched caul is used when I glue the bridge down. I closely approximates the radius of the top of the bridge and spreads calming pressure more evenly. A caul matching the dome of the top is placed under the bridge patch when the bridge is glued also and is crucial to successful bridge gluing.
@thepragmaticluthier You sure explained very well every step. Great job! I've had this classical for over 30yrs. It was made in Paracho, Michoacan México. Well, finally the bridge came off.
I've gone thru all the steps of scraping off old glue. It was made for flamenco playing & so it has a clear plastic protector which marks the placing of the bridge. You've given me great ideas on the proper clamping procedures. Thank you sir! Now all I need is to find the proper clamps. Are they 6.5 inch clamps?
Gracias señor!
Juan T.- Colombia S.A.
From Yrs of Cabinet work, I Started using . simple Plastic Straws for my glue clean up ! Simply Pinch the end of the straw about a inch and Pull it to make a Crease ! Push that Crease around the seam and it will scoop it right up , and not stick to your straw !
GREAT IDEA!! THANK YOU SIR.
Thank you for this. Fortunately, I was given a lot of plastic, (left overs), much of it Lexan, from a manufacturing plant in various thicknesses. and quite large sizes. I will be making a lot of jigs.
That's unenviable position you're in. All of that stuff is SO useful and very expensive if you have to pay retail. Congratulations on your acquisition and do enjoy making the tooling as well as the guitars.
very nice!......so if your using radius dish you have sanded the bottom clamping caul to match ?...thats the way ive been doing it for ever.......love your work.
I like your registration method - are your "pins" simply wire of the appropriate size or are you using Allen wrenches or other, please? And I like the padding on the clamps - I've never thought to do that.
I use 1/16" brazing rod because it won't corrode if it comes in contact with glue. It's more flexible than I prefer so the pins need to be replaced after a few months of use, but I then use the old ones for side dot inlays in fingerboards. I really am The Pragmatic Luthier.
Thanks very much for this! I am learning an enormous amount from watching your videos! Am curious about the name of your feline companion?
I'm certainly glad that you're deriving benefit from my videos. The cat's name is "Cat". She came to us having been abandoned, nearly ten years ago. I won't have cats in the house, but she has a nicely heated house in our pole barn, complete with heated water in winter. She gets the best veterinary care and food that money can buy. She roams into the shop when the door is open and frequently stays for an hour or two. She's the best mouser I've ever seen.
You use the caul mainly to press a 16" radius into the Bridge and the top? Greetings from Hamburg/Germany
A 16" caul is used to conform to the top of the bridge, which is curved to an approximate 16". It spreads clamping pressure across the center section of the bridge. A caul under the bridge patch, inside the body is positively domed to match the domed radius of the top, usually 25' or 30' . The topic domed and the underside of the bridge is domed to match the top. I hope this helps clarify.
@@thepragmaticluthier Many thanks for supporting my modest activities in guitar building. I understand that You radius the bridgeunderside to 25, 30 or 40 feet radius like you want the dome in the guitar top. But why do You radius the caul to 16" radius, is that to give some extra push to avoid spring back? The bridgeplate needs also to get curved to have an absolute perfect dome? I like the positive, non comercial, easy feel of Your videos, it´s honest!
I glue the bridge patch to the top using a caul that matches to radius of the top, 25, 30 or 40 feet. The 16" arched caul is used when I glue the bridge down. I closely approximates the radius of the top of the bridge and spreads calming pressure more evenly. A caul matching the dome of the top is placed under the bridge patch when the bridge is glued also and is crucial to successful bridge gluing.
@@thepragmaticluthier Thanks a lot for this infos, I`ll try it on my next guitar build.