Utility Trailer Floor Replacement
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
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Thank you, my dad passed away recently and left a run down trailer that needed replaced. That info was just what I needed. Thanks again
Repainting the cross braces of the trailer while the floor was out would have been value added. Also treating the floor boards with Thompsons water seal before installation would have added years to the wood.
Straight and to the point. This is how a DIY video should be done. Subscribed.
I did not know that angle iron could come out. That makes replacing the deck so much more easier. Thanks for uploading this video!
Thanks for this video! I struggled for hours trying to figure out how to approach this on my trailer and didn’t realize that rear lip came off. Thanks again!!!
Most trailers are designed for conventional lumber, with out ripping. Spaces between the boards is usually not needed because the boards shrink as the get old and dry out. It's usually 11 2x8....or 10 2x10...I build theses trailers for a living.
Perhaps you can help me. I inherited an old flat trailer, with no wood floor. There is a channel on the front and the back of the trailer. How do I put the boards in so that they catch in both channels? There are no screw holes in the support angle iron underneath, so somehow the old boards were put in place without being screwed down.
@@darrinmiller8030 I'm in the same boat. I have no idea how to put the new boards in
Darrin Miller you can cut the bead of the weld at the end of the angle iron so you can lift it out and put the boards in and then either tack it back down or screw it back on like in this video. I did it to my trailer and it went well.
Hmmm
What should I use on my 6x12 with out having to rip the last board?
Awesome, that was easier than expected! Mine is going to need the same treatment soon, but I won't put it off a long as you did ;)
The best and simplest video for this that I have seen. Great job and thanks!
This is awesome thank u guys just what I needed for my 6x12! 👍🏼
What wood did you use for your 6x12
Excellent job on the trailer. Love your vids. Thanks for sharing.
+LesterElm1 Thank you!!
Nice video, I have a 5×10 heavy duty trailer that needs new flooring.
That was a great video.
Thanks
Another great video. Thanks for posting. I especially like how you skipped over the "quiet cursing and frustration" phase of the stuck bolt situations...
Shhhh.... Lol. Glad you enjoyed it.
What kind/size screws to hold the boards down to the metal or you only screw the ends of it
Super helpful - thanks for the time saver !
Mine has those same rusted mounting screws. I will cut them too and wood as well. Nice vid.
Here in Arizona wood gets recked by heat and sun in just a few years. Thanks for this.
That came out nice. Thanks for sharing. A new trailer deck is refreshing. I did mine about 10 years ago. It was long overdue as well. See you next time!
+DIY Dillon Thanks! It’s definitely refreshing.
Dillons Woodworks b
Great job now I have the motivation to do mine
I have found PB Blaster to be a great rust penetrant. Regardless, the sawzall worked. Nice job!
+Jeremy Condon never heard of that. Thanks!
I found Freeall is much better anything else. I tried PB blaster and it did crap. Then I used Freeall, loosened in minutes.
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Good video and tips. Thanks for this.
Once I went to that trouble think I would have cleaned it up and give it a coat of rust proofing. Know your a busy man, is that what we call in Aussie treated pine!!!!
Just use old engine oil after you change your cars oil why waste of money with store-bought stuff
or at least some Undercoating to kinda slow down the rust creeep..
Thank you for this vieo. Would you tell what kind of wood you use or is the best for this project? TY
Nice work Shawn!
+Vincent Alex Vigil Thanks!
How did the gap work out after the new boards dried
I have read different opinion in regards to spacing new wet pressure treated boards for my 5x8 utility trailer.
Used spray undercoating on the siderails after cleaning off loose rust.
Were there any screws besides the end caps that you re-installed? I'm getting ready to do this on my trailer. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip great video
Perfect instructions, thank you sir
Both my angle irons front and back are welded in
I just did the samething today , how did u take off the screws that u cut off ? Did u use a punch?
Great video mine little different homemade built from previous owner at the gate I didn’t have screws on top nor bottom. I was told to remove gate then cut angle iron or bar that it slides in then re weld crazy huh. I can tear it up just need to get a good solder kit now lol.
You mention securing the board’s underneath the trailer. Is there a video on those? Thx
Question: my trailer has 2 rows of additional fasteners along braces a couple of feet fore and aft of the mid brace. Did you just decide the additional fasteners were unnecessary?
Looks great Shawn. Did you use treated wood? That is a really nice size trailer. That is something like what I want to get for my next trailer.
Thanks for sharing
WD 40 is a water displacer(WD stands for “water displacer”)NOT a penetrating oil. Use Kroil, PB blaster, or ATF/ acetone mix.
PB is my go-to as well.
You are correct, but wd40 does offer some penetration. Check out the comparison on project farms channel. Very interesting results. 👌
Good info here! Thanks for sharing!
Nice simple fix...............They don't always go that way...... Was that a rebuild trailer?
Here’s a trick for everybody......
every time I change the oil in one of my vehicles I collect the spent oil in a 5 gallon pail and then every couple or three years I pour the oil onto the deck of the trailer and sweep it in with a broom I would buy for $1.50 at the dollar store which I would later throwaway
Oiling of the deck does 2 things: it prevents the deck boards from rotting and it prevents the deck from shrinking
without doing my trailer which has a 16 foot long footprint lost 2 inches, when we tried to load cargo which was exactly 16 feet long we were unable to close the back doors,these 2 inches came back a few days after the trailer deck was oiled
At 5:09, you nailed the retaining bar down onto the boards. But the boards (with retaining bar) aren't connected to the trailer at all, right? So a crazy bump could lift the whole rear of the boards a couple of inches and it could start sliding rearward, correct? Especially if you removed the rear gate in order to haul kayaks or something a bit longer than the bed.
I think I'd put 4 or 5 holes in the front retaining bar, too. The one that's still welded down. And driving screws in there would mean the boards couldn't "jump" and slide out of the deck, no matter how big of a bump you hit.
I see that the same way. I have almost the same front and rear angle iron set up on my trailer with no screws holding the boards down to any cross members in the middle, EXCEPT i made sure to use bigger screws to go through to the frame at the end of the trailers frame at the end.
Did the torx screws come out easily :12-16 second mark. And did you screw the boards back into the frame?
Do you have to space the oards? Or can you have no space between? thanks
Unless you paint the frame with rustproofing primer and paint, the job is only half done, and will lead to unnecessary work in the future.
So you don't put the same type of bolts back in? You use wood screws from the bottom? Will that hold as well as the original bolts?
No need to space newly purchased treated wood. It’ll dry and shrink. Good job!
Absolutely!
Is the new wood just laying in there or is it necessary to screw it down? Seems like it would be tough going through that metal.
Thanks a lot for the video
On your stripped screw heads try an angle grinder, and make a slot in the head and try a Flathead bit. while all the boards are off might as well get a wire brush and get as much rust off the framing as possible, and repaint it.
At this moment i was just interested in a functional trailer. Later on I might rework the entire trailer.
How does it keep it down for a right snug fit
Nice job. One suggestion i have though. Instead of waiting until the last board to rip. Get your measurements and put the ripped board in the center for a more symmetrical look. Thanks
A wise man speaks 👍👍👍
Definitely, was told to start in the middle and work out. You can possibly make the two end boards more narrow if possible.
My plan is to start in the middle and work to the sides. That would leave the narrowest boards on the edges rather than in the center. It's one concept anyhow.
Such a great video
Nice job! 👍👊
+Fred McIntyre Thanks Fred!!
no screws or bolts in boards down the length only ends>?
Durn nice job, looks good and done right!
It’s solid. 👍
Stone and Sons Workshop I'm about to do my 5x8, the stamped metal is shot and I'll take the real bad stuff out and want to go back with maybe 2x6 boards or I kind of thought about looking at those poly decking boards since I only haul my mower and some light stuff around the house.
My Tip: For cosmetic purposes only, I would have placed the cut board in the centre of the trailer floor.
Probably not in the middle as the hand cut line would not be as straight. For cosmetic aka symmetry, he could have cut the piece on the other end, but that's more work and no one really cares as it is just a trailer bed :)
What size boards did you use?
I have 1x6
I would like to go up
2x10
Will it work?
The only thing I plan to do different on mine is once the boards are cut to size apply the preservative on all sides then install
Technically all it really needs is oil. There's no point in finishing a trailer bed. The finish will just come off quickly if you use it with any regularity. Any kind of oil will do, just do it every so often. Not like every month, just maybe once a year or two.
What size of wood did you use?
I'm really surprised you didn't paint that metal with a rust stopper paint when you had it exposed
Same thoughts
I read an earlier reply to a similar question. The original poster said he would do that at some time in the future but he was in a hurry to get a functional trailer up and running.
Both pieces of angle iron on my Big Tex trailer are welded. Anyone else have this? Is there a technique to replace the floor boards w/o cutting those welds?
I use used motor oil cut with diesel to preserve the treated lumber on all my trailers. Just a thought. Great stuff Shawn. There are a bunch of people out there that would just trade it in instead of what you did (the right thing)
How long does the smell last?
@@DarkLinkAD I was thinking the same thing. I park my trailer in my garage, and I dont think I'd be able to ever do that again. I would bet the smell will always be there
No just no. Used motor oil will rot your lumber!
Its what people pour on old tree stumps to rot them away,..why? Cause it does!
I don't think I would use anything like used oil, but the idea is true, you want to oil your deck at least every couple years.
@@daverea372 no it won't. It preserves it.
I simply cleaned the head out with a screw and compressed air and worked the impact forward and reverse until they came out no lube. The lube will make the heads strip
Those are M30 star bolts. Your bit was probably too small and stripped the bolt pattern. How do I know this? Because I did the exact same thing! Great video, thanks!
foodboy767 ...... T30
Good job, Shawn. That repair should last you quite awhile now.
+steve walker yes it should. Thanks.
Where do you find wood that straight?
Now you can take a trip to see Matt Cremona and buy some slabs!
That was a good simple project. When you were struggling with the screw, you said you couldn't get under the angle. You could have cut through the wood to get to the screw. We tend to forget that we can destroy the piece we are replacing.
While you had the deck off did you inspect the wiring. On my nearly new trailer, the wiring is not up to my standards. I haven't felt motivated to crawl under it to fix the wiring.
+B Templeton Haha you’re right I could’ve cut the wood, and yes I did check the wiring. I was going to add the whole wiring thing to the video, but that it was a little bit off topic.
Great point. Thanks.
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop My boards were so rotten that a grandson had a great time with a sledgehammer beating them to death.
A manual impact screwdriver is priceless for rusted screws
nice!!
Did you screw the boards back on from underneath the trailer?
That's my question as well. Seems like the trailer will flex and eventually warp or cause welds to fall under load.
I wanted to put my safety glasses on watching your attempt to remove that stubborn screw! Lol
Wat time i go look for
What size were the boards
Why wouldn't you Por15 or at least Rustoleum the frame before attaching the boards? Lots of rust on those cross bars!
+Trey Horsey it may look bad, but it’s really not. I did look at everything to make sure there wasn’t any serious issues. There’s a lot I COULD do, but at this point I’m just interested in a new floor.
He seemed like a nice guy but he aint no Bob Villa.
Never use por15, you cannot stop rust without getting rid of it first. Painting over it will never stop it. The only way to stop rust is by removing it. Rust is a chemical reaction and once it has started it is too late. You have to remove it, then prime the bare metal, then paint/seal over the primer. Por15 is a gimmick.
What type of screw did you use to secure the decking to the trailer?
I dont think he did. It looked like the front edges were under the front angle iron and the rear was also covered by that piece of angle iron. I just wondered if the rear boards could still bounce around because i dont think the 3 screws were into the trailer frame to hold them all down.
At the very end where you screw the angle down to the boards. Does it hold the boards down? It dont flop up in the back? mine is welded. I am actually fixing to redo my boards but don't have a welder to re-weld it. but if your method works then I'll go that route.
Yeah it looks like it would flop around. Mine's welded also so I have to cut the angle off then reweld it. Luckily I have a welder. Go buy you one at harbor freight cheap and if you don't want it after the job then return it 😉🍻
Just bow the boards up in the middle so you can get the ends to slide in the groove then release them.
Excellent to the point and informative! Question, my trailer is nearly identical except it is 12’ and the rear angle iron or channel is not removable. It is welded all the way around the entire perimeter. Have you seen this before and have any recommendations? Thank you
Mine was 16 ft. I used a hydraulic jack underneath (with a scrap of wood to not dent the trailer wood, to bow the board to get them out. Reversed the procedure to put the new one in. Two people would have made the replacement easier, I used a clamping system to push the one end down. Once it’s lined up, then you can ease the jack down.
Cut a piece wide enough to slide and remove the boards
@@agentleebs I have a 10 foot long trailer and have the same issue with the rear angle iron. Bending a practice 2x6 but think that if I bent it enough to slip it in there it might break. Over a 16 foot span that would work easier. I have to do some more research on this. I can cut the boards shorter so the bend might work but would like to have as much length under the iron as possible. I welcome any help you might have.
@@SmokeyBear363 Not sure what you meant, Mario.
Reading further I see that people have cut that angle iron in the back and then rewelded it or screwed it down somehow. I'm going to research that.
Well the only way I've ever done replacing decks on trailers car and semi is drill out the heads on the angle or retainer piece. Then remove the loose broken boards. Then seawall all the screws flush with the lower frame work. When reinstall you font have a bunch of holes in it to get lined up just drill new and run in decking screws. I did tons of trailers whern I worked in my apprenticeship and early when I worked at Ryder and other truck shops. The young guy gets the hard jobs. The old mechanics said we still had gristle for a spine so it wouldn't hurt us. Lol
plz post a video. not sure i follow.
Might be a silly question but...Did you make the small gap between boards just for water drainage?
I never again put a space between the boards cause they will shrink in time creating the perfect gap..
Thanks, good job. When you get to my age you will realize the benefit of knee pads.
What about boards with screws down the boards?
Treated material as a replacement, is it silly to say a coat of paint adds to the longevity of the timber ?, not sure but my dad always painted most projects so I’m in that mould of thinking 👍
+Sumo's Projects if I do anything, I’ll eventually add a sealer. I really dislike painting. Lol.
Don't space wet wood. When it dries, the space will widen further.
kiln dried wood shouldn't shrink much
So did you only put screws in the end with the angle iron cap ?
Scratch that watched it over again
How much would that cost in 2021 lumber $?
what size are the boards? 2x6? 2x5?
What size wood is this?
What kind of wood.
What sise it's the wood
Just wanted to share this, Kroil is far superior to WD 40 to get into stuck screws and bolts in about the same soak time. try it once you will agree. It might cost about 8 bucks a can but it is worth every penny.
I'm gonna go ahead and do that. I went ahead and did that. Do you ever get to far ahead??..😀😉😉
I didn't see that you reattached the boards to the frame and the angle on the back looked like you only screwed it into the boards, not the frame. I'm just concerned that the boards could potentially come loose when hitting large bumps in the road.
+John Card I mentioned adding screws to the bottom center of the boards through existing holes, but the underside of the back I added washers and screws to the angle iron. So, everything is secured.
Stone and Sons Workshop Ok, just wanted to make sure all was secure.
They welded mine shut I gotta cut the metal lip over the wood on one side. Tsc trailer....
just curious my trailer the boards are screwed down every few feet to a cross bar. when i put new wood down how would i line back up to those threaded holes? Somehow i have to make holes in the new boards to line up to the threaded hole in the trailer cross bar. any ideas?
You'll have to drill your boards from the bottom side under the trailer through the existing holes in the crossmembers. Its easier if you stand your trailer up on it's ass end although that's easier said than done.
I did this last year and watched this video just to see how he handled it. But he only showed himself sliding under the trailer. The rear angle bracket is the hardest because it has to go perfectly through 2 holes. I made a drill guide to insure I kept the bit straight and drilled from underneath. Once you make that first hole, put a bolt in it to keep it from moving while you do the others.
I wasn't careful on one hole in the crossmember and drilled it bigger so the threads don't catch. That board bows up at that point. Since the bolts are cutting bolts, the drill bit can be slightly smaller than the hole and avoid reaming out the hole in the metal.
You should be using heavy duty lags, and you should do it at every cross member on every board. I have worked for several construction companies that haul heavy equipment and with a trailer like this you need to secure the board at every cross member. I get that maybe you don't haul as heavy of material but if you ever sell it that's something to keep in mind.
What is the reason they need to be screwed in every cross bar?
@@deepmarsh they dont, not on this light duty of a trailer but the reason people screw them at each or a few of the cross members is to keep the boards from moving and warping. Either bowing up or bending in a curve since they arent screwed down. The only thing i noticed was that rear angle iron he screwed the 3 screws to, it wasnt attached to the trailer frame so i wonder if all the boards could bounce up in the back
No need to space them as they WILL shrink.
Where did you buy the screws to attach decking?
Brad, did you find screws? I'm looking at torque's head black screws that can be had from Tacoma screw and fastener. They are self tapping so pre drill and run them in.
@@cfbarnett yes, thank you !
I used my reciprocating saw and just cut off the bolt heads
Recommendation for drilling on trailers that DONT have bolts already? 1 hour in.. 4 broken bits. Not one complete hole
Can I use a trailer like this one to carry wood for a fencing job ?
Duh