If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
I just did my 2012 Corolla 1.8 and it took exactly one gallon of Toyota antifreeze with the overflow cleaned and filled up to full. (104,855 miles). Only two things left to do--exchange two quarts of ATF-WS and change the serpentine belt. Haven't looked yet for a video on how to change the belt.
Nice. I will be making a video soon on replacing a drive belt, but haven't gotten down to it yet, but it's fairly straight forward and not too difficult to do.
I would attach plastic tube to petcock valve and drain the coolant straight to the jar without any mess. Also, I would not close the valve when the stream of coolant is still draining. The gole is to get as much coolant as possible. In general, nice tutoring video. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment. I appreciate it. I try my best to provide in depth details and procedures step-by-step in doing maintenance/repairs/diagnostics on this channel. I hope to help out as many people as I can in the future.
Lifting up the car at different angles for draining may help a little bit to get a little bit of the coolant out after it's done draining from the radiator. Not needed for the bleeding procedure though. Having the vehicle on the ground for bleeding is fine. However, on some European and other vehicles sometimes lifting the car up slightly off the front wheels may help in the bleeding process to purge out air.
Thanks for the vid! I keep seeing different methods varied on this. Maybe easy question - I've never changed my coolant in 13 years on my Corolla. Should I do a complete flush then, meaning with the distilled water? And do I need to burp a 2010 Corolla, or does it automatically burp itself? Thanks, again!
Unless there were problems with the old coolant or if there was build up or something I think you should be OK. You could always do a drain and fill a couple times if you want as well after running the vehicle for some time after the first service. You could flush it out by removing the radiator hoses and running a garden hose to flush out the block before adding new coolant. It's just a matter of preference at this point if you are working on your own vehicles. These vehicles need the cooling system to be properly bled or burped of air bubbles as shown in the video. Most vehicles need to be bled whereas some vehicles are self-bleeding or self-regulating, but have a different procedure that needs to be followed to properly purge the air out of the system. Thanks for the support and thanks for watching I appreciate it.
Hey thanks for the video! I tried an OEM tools coolant funnel but it didn’t fit. So I went and bought the Lisle one you listed in your description, but none of the radiator cap adapters fit either. Any insight? Everything I find online seems to be the same rebranded product I already have (twice). My car is a 2012 Corolla 2zrfe Thanks!
Yeah, I had some trouble with the Lisle one a little bit, they fit, but it is a tight fit. You just have to be careful when you install the adapter on to the radiator and making sure not to damage the plastic housing on the radiator neck. For many years I've been using the Mac Tools one with the solid opaque yellow funnel with the adapters kit. But the Lisle one works just as good as well. Try again and see if it fits. It takes some patience to install them on and they can be tricky sometimes you need to have them installed at the right angle and spot to turn, twist and lock into place. The one for the Corolla usually uses adapter C so try that and see if it works.
Sometimes on some Toyotas they will have a drain valve on the block, but I don't touch them due to liability issues. In a majority of cases they are corroded/rusted on there pretty good and so if you try to open them they might break and then you will be stuck. Typically, if something breaks directly on the engine you will just have opened up a can of worms so I like to leave those alone. It is just a basic drain and fill of the system, not a full flush. Customer's don't have money to do a full flush service they just want the basic service done and so that is what I do as I only get paid for an hour to do it.
Is there any difference in method if the car's radiator doesn't have a cap? So just do the same but pour in the coolant in the expansion tank after all of it has been removed?
Correct. Same concept applies to vehicles that have an external expansion tank running to the radiator that don't have a pressure cap or filler neck built into the radiator itself. The bleeding procedure will be similar on different vehicles, but make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommended procedure to bleed the cooling system.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks for the quick reply, appreciate it! I've read about doing this multiple times and watch couple of different videos; but, I had to make sure. I did the job yesterday on my 2017 Corolla iM, which has the 2ZR-FAE engine. Since it doesn't have the radiator cap and I couldn't locate any bleed valve on the block, I ran the car for 30~40 minutes on idle and waited till the fan came on and turned off 3 times. It seems there is no air bubbles in the system and car reaches the operating temperature and stays there like before. But reading and doing is different, so I had to double check.
Thanks for posting this. If I'm replacing the lower radiator hose in my 09 toyota corolla, do I need to drain the coolant like you did? My radiator hose hasn't blown or anything but there's a small degree of coolant crust around the plug in so just doing the job to be on the safe side.
Dried coolant will eventually show up on parts from time to time, it's not anything to be worried about unless something is leaking there and not creating a tight seal. You can remove the lower radiator hose only if you want to change it out, but a bunch of coolant will splash out just be ready to catch it with a drain pan of some sort. You don't have to open the yellow drain valve if you don't want to. Removing the lower radiator hose is sufficient for draining the radiator alone. You can choose to drain it through the hose or through the yellow drain valve it does not matter. It's just that the yellow drain valve is easier and a cleaner job to drain from to avoid a mess that's all.
@@moosemobileautorepair interesting I took my car into Christian Brothers Automotive, and the dried coolant was their justification for saying the radiator hose needed to be replaced. Most sources I've pulled up have said that dried coolant = evidence of a worn down radiator hose, but I'll keep digging around just in case.
@benjammin775 You can wash it down with water and see if it comes back. If the radiator is leaking at the seams then that is a different story. I've heard a lot of mixed things about The Christian Brothers shop. Heard some bad things about them through Alex The Car Doctor, but that shop decided to make things right for the customer after Alex mentioned about some ongoing issues. If you can take some pictures or make a video and send it to me by email then I could look at it. Meanwhile probably get a 2nd opinion if possible. If there isn't a lot of crusted pink coolant and if it isn't really dripping or leaking badly enough it might be best to leave it alone. I won't know until I can see pictures or a video of it and I can better assess if you need to do anything about it.
@@moosemobileautorepair that's generous of you thanks. I'll double check the image christian brothers sent to me and email it if I think there's more to what they initially said. All I remember them saying is "coolant crust on outside of radiator hose" and labelling it as an urgent need.
Yes, but often those get seized and you don't want to touch those as if it breaks you will open a can of worms and have problems. It's best to leave those alone.
@@moosemobileautorepair True, but in my amateur opinion, it's still worth trying to open, provided you don't encounter too much resistance. I find the best way to remove stuck or seized bolts is to use plenty of penetrating lubricant (of course) and try to begin by using a 6pt combo wrench as opposed to a socket. It's also best to use a heavy hammer in the other end of the wrench (if there's room), but NOT to hit it too hard. Give it several moderate tappity taps. The laws of physics dictate intermittent light to moderate impact over an extended period of time, as opposed to steady torque applied all at once, is best for loosening seized bolts or nuts if they can be loosened at all. One more thing, NEVER use 12pt wrenches or sockets. I've lost count of how many heads I've rounded with those before I learned my lesson.
@@moosemobileautorepair i pirchased a toyotal corolla 2013 last year. Now I have seen that the coolant is at half that means middle of full and low mark. Should i buy and add that or totally replace. There is no indication on dashboard.
That kit in the video I've had for many years which I bought off the Mac Tools tool truck. You can get the same or similar through Amazon. They're not too expensive maybe 50 bucks or less.
If the procedure was followed correctly and if it doesn't overheat while driving and you have good and strong heat from inside the vehicle cabin then you should be OK.
It's hard to do it without the funnel. You would need to top up at the brim of the radiator each time. The funnel helps to hold and circulate the liquid coolant to prevent any air bubbles from getting back into the system. It also allows you to observe the air bubbles in the coolant. You really need the funnel to do it properly because the coolant expands and contracts while bleeding the system. It can probably be done without, but it's best with the spill-free funnel. Without the funnel the coolant will spill over and get on to other parts of the radiator, etc.
Not necessary. If a vehicle has been maintained properly and has done routine service then flushing is not needed nor required. Flushing is only necessary when the system has been neglected for many many years or if there is a problem in the cooling system. Otherwise a routine drain and fill is enough. You will probably get around 50% to 66% of the coolant out and some of the coolant in the block will remain. But if you do routine service each and every time then flushing isn't needed. Now if the water pump has been replaced then you do not need to do a flush since the coolant from the block will be drained out from there.
It matters because you need to know when the thermostat is fully open which signifies that the cooling system has been fully bled of air. With A/C on the cooling fans will be running all the time. The cooling fans usually comes on when the thermostat is fully open. If you turned off the A/C during mid operation it's OK. It will just take the cooling system to warm up longer that's all. Having the A/C on takes longer for the coolant to warm up because the fans are running.
This was an older video that I made back then when I was starting out on CZcams and figuring out what people want in my video content. I've started to talk more in my other videos. Some videos don't require much talking as you can watch and observe. I'm just trying to help others by giving out free information. I also have a speech impediment/stutter, but that doesn't stop me from what I'm trying to do/achieve. I hope you understand. Thanks for watching.
Some people just don't know how to watch and observe when something is being done. I know many things can be done without talking and people can learn from it. Yeah you're right. 😂
Look up the definition of entitled and then look at yourself in the mirror. It’s his video he can do as he pleases. You can click on a different video just as you please in the same token. Or shut up and enjoy the free info :)
@@DavidPerez-cg4jn look up the definition of a video. It's not text. Love how you're butt hurt when it has nothing to do with you. Talk about entitled. And probably would get a lot more views and likes if it wasn't so much text to read. Most of us are preoccupied, many driving. Was a suggestion, but since you're so butt hurt it makes me happy
If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
Followed your video and did this job today. Very clear instructions led to a successful result.
Thank you.
I prefer it this way over the talking.
I just did my 2012 Corolla 1.8 and it took exactly one gallon of Toyota antifreeze with the overflow cleaned and filled up to full. (104,855 miles). Only two things left to do--exchange two quarts of ATF-WS and change the serpentine belt. Haven't looked yet for a video on how to change the belt.
Nice. I will be making a video soon on replacing a drive belt, but haven't gotten down to it yet, but it's fairly straight forward and not too difficult to do.
I would attach plastic tube to petcock valve and drain the coolant straight to the jar without any mess. Also, I would not close the valve when the stream of coolant is still draining. The gole is to get as much coolant as possible. In general, nice tutoring video. Thank you.
Sure. You can do that as well.
Awesome video
Good job Moose!!
Thanks for the support. I appreciate it.
nice job , Thanks !!!!
Nice video. No bs. Straight to the point.
Thanks for your comment. I appreciate it. I try my best to provide in depth details and procedures step-by-step in doing maintenance/repairs/diagnostics on this channel. I hope to help out as many people as I can in the future.
Thanks!!
La verdad muy bien video hay unos que mucho hablan y no se les entiende nada gracias
Once you drain the old coolant add 5 gallons of destiled water to get it real clean
يمكنكم وضع اي قطع بلاستيكية كبيرة نفس مقاس الغطاء تؤدي الغرض ولفها بشريط اصلاح السباكه
Thank you for sharing your information big help.
lifting up front of car will improve the drain and purge process ? thanks
Lifting up the car at different angles for draining may help a little bit to get a little bit of the coolant out after it's done draining from the radiator. Not needed for the bleeding procedure though. Having the vehicle on the ground for bleeding is fine. However, on some European and other vehicles sometimes lifting the car up slightly off the front wheels may help in the bleeding process to purge out air.
Thanks for the vid! I keep seeing different methods varied on this. Maybe easy question - I've never changed my coolant in 13 years on my Corolla. Should I do a complete flush then, meaning with the distilled water? And do I need to burp a 2010 Corolla, or does it automatically burp itself? Thanks, again!
Unless there were problems with the old coolant or if there was build up or something I think you should be OK. You could always do a drain and fill a couple times if you want as well after running the vehicle for some time after the first service. You could flush it out by removing the radiator hoses and running a garden hose to flush out the block before adding new coolant. It's just a matter of preference at this point if you are working on your own vehicles. These vehicles need the cooling system to be properly bled or burped of air bubbles as shown in the video. Most vehicles need to be bled whereas some vehicles are self-bleeding or self-regulating, but have a different procedure that needs to be followed to properly purge the air out of the system. Thanks for the support and thanks for watching I appreciate it.
Hey thanks for the video! I tried an OEM tools coolant funnel but it didn’t fit. So I went and bought the Lisle one you listed in your description, but none of the radiator cap adapters fit either. Any insight? Everything I find online seems to be the same rebranded product I already have (twice). My car is a 2012 Corolla 2zrfe
Thanks!
Yeah, I had some trouble with the Lisle one a little bit, they fit, but it is a tight fit. You just have to be careful when you install the adapter on to the radiator and making sure not to damage the plastic housing on the radiator neck. For many years I've been using the Mac Tools one with the solid opaque yellow funnel with the adapters kit. But the Lisle one works just as good as well. Try again and see if it fits. It takes some patience to install them on and they can be tricky sometimes you need to have them installed at the right angle and spot to turn, twist and lock into place.
The one for the Corolla usually uses adapter C so try that and see if it works.
Isn't there a secondary drain tube on the block you need to open as well to assure thorough drainage?
Sometimes on some Toyotas they will have a drain valve on the block, but I don't touch them due to liability issues. In a majority of cases they are corroded/rusted on there pretty good and so if you try to open them they might break and then you will be stuck. Typically, if something breaks directly on the engine you will just have opened up a can of worms so I like to leave those alone. It is just a basic drain and fill of the system, not a full flush. Customer's don't have money to do a full flush service they just want the basic service done and so that is what I do as I only get paid for an hour to do it.
Is there any difference in method if the car's radiator doesn't have a cap?
So just do the same but pour in the coolant in the expansion tank after all of it has been removed?
Correct. Same concept applies to vehicles that have an external expansion tank running to the radiator that don't have a pressure cap or filler neck built into the radiator itself. The bleeding procedure will be similar on different vehicles, but make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommended procedure to bleed the cooling system.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks for the quick reply, appreciate it!
I've read about doing this multiple times and watch couple of different videos; but, I had to make sure. I did the job yesterday on my 2017 Corolla iM, which has the 2ZR-FAE engine. Since it doesn't have the radiator cap and I couldn't locate any bleed valve on the block, I ran the car for 30~40 minutes on idle and waited till the fan came on and turned off 3 times.
It seems there is no air bubbles in the system and car reaches the operating temperature and stays there like before.
But reading and doing is different, so I had to double check.
Thanks for posting this. If I'm replacing the lower radiator hose in my 09 toyota corolla, do I need to drain the coolant like you did? My radiator hose hasn't blown or anything but there's a small degree of coolant crust around the plug in so just doing the job to be on the safe side.
Dried coolant will eventually show up on parts from time to time, it's not anything to be worried about unless something is leaking there and not creating a tight seal. You can remove the lower radiator hose only if you want to change it out, but a bunch of coolant will splash out just be ready to catch it with a drain pan of some sort. You don't have to open the yellow drain valve if you don't want to. Removing the lower radiator hose is sufficient for draining the radiator alone.
You can choose to drain it through the hose or through the yellow drain valve it does not matter. It's just that the yellow drain valve is easier and a cleaner job to drain from to avoid a mess that's all.
@@moosemobileautorepair interesting I took my car into Christian Brothers Automotive, and the dried coolant was their justification for saying the radiator hose needed to be replaced. Most sources I've pulled up have said that dried coolant = evidence of a worn down radiator hose, but I'll keep digging around just in case.
@benjammin775 You can wash it down with water and see if it comes back. If the radiator is leaking at the seams then that is a different story. I've heard a lot of mixed things about The Christian Brothers shop. Heard some bad things about them through Alex The Car Doctor, but that shop decided to make things right for the customer after Alex mentioned about some ongoing issues.
If you can take some pictures or make a video and send it to me by email then I could look at it. Meanwhile probably get a 2nd opinion if possible.
If there isn't a lot of crusted pink coolant and if it isn't really dripping or leaking badly enough it might be best to leave it alone. I won't know until I can see pictures or a video of it and I can better assess if you need to do anything about it.
@@moosemobileautorepair that's generous of you thanks. I'll double check the image christian brothers sent to me and email it if I think there's more to what they initially said. All I remember them saying is "coolant crust on outside of radiator hose" and labelling it as an urgent need.
There is a valve to drain the fluid from the engine block, located at the back
Yes, but often those get seized and you don't want to touch those as if it breaks you will open a can of worms and have problems. It's best to leave those alone.
@@moosemobileautorepair True, but in my amateur opinion, it's still worth trying to open, provided you don't encounter too much resistance. I find the best way to remove stuck or seized bolts is to use plenty of penetrating lubricant (of course) and try to begin by using a 6pt combo wrench as opposed to a socket. It's also best to use a heavy hammer in the other end of the wrench (if there's room), but NOT to hit it too hard. Give it several moderate tappity taps. The laws of physics dictate intermittent light to moderate impact over an extended period of time, as opposed to steady torque applied all at once, is best for loosening seized bolts or nuts if they can be loosened at all. One more thing, NEVER use 12pt wrenches or sockets. I've lost count of how many heads I've rounded with those before I learned my lesson.
To unscrew the yellow thing to drain the raidiator coolant is it counter clock wise ?
Counter-clockwise.
what type and color of antifreeze should i get for the corollas? I picked a couple of them up and am not sure.
Super Long Life Coolant. The pink stuff which can be picked up from the Toyota dealership which is relatively inexpensive.
@@moosemobileautorepair i pirchased a toyotal corolla 2013 last year. Now I have seen that the coolant is at half that means middle of full and low mark. Should i buy and add that or totally replace. There is no indication on dashboard.
Where'd you get that snazzy adapter/funnel/plug kit?
That kit in the video I've had for many years which I bought off the Mac Tools tool truck. You can get the same or similar through Amazon. They're not too expensive maybe 50 bucks or less.
What if after 45 minutes of bleeding and still have small bubbles is that normal?
If the procedure was followed correctly and if it doesn't overheat while driving and you have good and strong heat from inside the vehicle cabin then you should be OK.
I got the same car but with a 2.4L does it take the same amount of coolant?
Yes, takes roughly the same amount for a drain and fill on those 2.4 engines.
@@moosemobileautorepair Cool, thank you.
Can i use the same method on a 05 corolla?
Yes.
Thank you.@@moosemobileautorepair
Do you have any tips to refill the system without the special funnnel or the funnel is it really necessary?
It's hard to do it without the funnel. You would need to top up at the brim of the radiator each time. The funnel helps to hold and circulate the liquid coolant to prevent any air bubbles from getting back into the system. It also allows you to observe the air bubbles in the coolant. You really need the funnel to do it properly because the coolant expands and contracts while bleeding the system. It can probably be done without, but it's best with the spill-free funnel. Without the funnel the coolant will spill over and get on to other parts of the radiator, etc.
@@moosemobileautorepair Ok i'll get one those so. Thx
How long did it take you to bleed the engine?
Probably 30 to 45 minutes roughly.
should you close the radiator cap before shutting off the engine ? or maybe it doesn't matter
No, it doesn't matter. After the system has been bled you can put the pressure cap back on. Engine off or engine running doesn't matter.
Why didn’t you flush it?
Not necessary. If a vehicle has been maintained properly and has done routine service then flushing is not needed nor required. Flushing is only necessary when the system has been neglected for many many years or if there is a problem in the cooling system. Otherwise a routine drain and fill is enough. You will probably get around 50% to 66% of the coolant out and some of the coolant in the block will remain. But if you do routine service each and every time then flushing isn't needed. Now if the water pump has been replaced then you do not need to do a flush since the coolant from the block will be drained out from there.
Fan on hot or AC on hot ?
A/C off. Fan on high speed and temperature on full hot.
I started with ac then I moved it to fan 😅does it matter?
It matters because you need to know when the thermostat is fully open which signifies that the cooling system has been fully bled of air. With A/C on the cooling fans will be running all the time.
The cooling fans usually comes on when the thermostat is fully open.
If you turned off the A/C during mid operation it's OK. It will just take the cooling system to warm up longer that's all. Having the A/C on takes longer for the coolant to warm up because the fans are running.
i just see fluid flowing. no details what you did
Thanks for your input.
It's OK to talk, it's a video. if we wanted to read how to do it we would get a book
This was an older video that I made back then when I was starting out on CZcams and figuring out what people want in my video content. I've started to talk more in my other videos. Some videos don't require much talking as you can watch and observe. I'm just trying to help others by giving out free information. I also have a speech impediment/stutter, but that doesn't stop me from what I'm trying to do/achieve. I hope you understand. Thanks for watching.
All good this guy prolly has a reading problem as well. Not much to talk about here.
Some people just don't know how to watch and observe when something is being done. I know many things can be done without talking and people can learn from it. Yeah you're right. 😂
Look up the definition of entitled and then look at yourself in the mirror. It’s his video he can do as he pleases. You can click on a different video just as you please in the same token. Or shut up and enjoy the free info :)
@@DavidPerez-cg4jn look up the definition of a video. It's not text. Love how you're butt hurt when it has nothing to do with you. Talk about entitled. And probably would get a lot more views and likes if it wasn't so much text to read. Most of us are preoccupied, many driving. Was a suggestion, but since you're so butt hurt it makes me happy