Raw NEIPA Brew & Full Method Guide
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- čas přidán 13. 04. 2019
- RAW NEIPA RECIPE
BATCH SIZE:- 10L / 2.64 US GALLONS
BOIL TIME:- NOT REQUIRED
BH Efficiency :- 75%
Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.016 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7 %
Est Color: 29.5 EBC
2 STEP MASH:-
Mash in @
65 deg c /
149 deg f
For 60 minutes
Mash out @
75 deg c /
167 deg f
Pale ale Malt
1.61kg / 3.54 lbs
(54.5%)
Munich Malt
713g / 1.56 lbs
(24.3%)
Wheat Malt
395g / 0.86 lbs
(13.3%)
Oats, flaked
238g / 0.53 lbs
(8%)
Dry hops - 4 days
Mosiac
35g / 1.23 oz
Pacific Jade
35g / 1.23 oz
Hop Tea
Mosiac
35g / 1.23 oz
Pacific Jade
35g / 1.23 oz
Yeast
Skare farm kveik
2g / 0.070 oz / a third of a teaspoon.
Or a yeast of your choice. Note this will change the final gravity figure.
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring.com/stores/davi...
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae - Jak na to + styl
![How to Brew the BEST New England IPA [Ultimate Hazy IPA Tips & Recipe]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XLQ8bkzLU00/mqdefault.jpg)
Your awesome Mr. Heath thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Many thanks, much appreciated :)
Brilliant video David! I will put your methods into practice!
Great to hear and much appreciated :) Really love these raw beers!
Has been my best neipa yet...thanks.
Great to hear Jared :)
Very enlightening! Thank you...
Great to hear Cory, much appreciated :)
Thank You for your time, from Phoenix Arizona ;
🍻🍻😎
Very inspiring video. Very professional looking also.
Many thanks Alan :)
Great video, very useful information. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who loses things, for me it's my hop spider. I've lost it 3 times already.
Thanks Mike :) Haha yeah, I had to buy a new one! Ive not lost a hop spider yet....having said that I hardly ever use it.
Love that beer. Brewed it with Galaxy and El Dorado Hops. Everything else as in the recipe. What a Juice!
Great, yes me also :) Hmm I bet that hop pairing was very good too!
David, thank you for posting another well-explained brewing video. Based on your earlier video we used the simple grain bill of 50% each of Pilsner and Pale Ale malt together with Citra hops in the mash resulting in a fabulous 7-gallon batch of raw ale with Midtbust yeast. We are discussing methods to scale up the process to a 15-barrel batch because we need to rethink how the hop addition is accomplished. By the way, I always use rice hulls in the mash with the Grainfather for our pilot brews and have never had efficiencies less than 85% and so I always scale recipes to 90% in the online Grainfather recipe tool.
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I made the raw ale from the original video and it was spectacular. Can’t wait to make this one, too!
Awesome to hear Peter :) This one is very hoppy, fruity and citrus :)
David another brilliant video! It sounded so great I want to try it this week, but sadly I have too much beer on hand ;) I really liked the idea of doing small experimental batches too
Many thank Ken, much appreciated :) Having too much beer on hand is a great first world problem to have :)
It is David! :)
Thank you David for yet another inspirational video.
I just botteled my batch of this brew today, and I am really looking forward to tasting it.
I split the batch in three, boiled one, and left two raw. The latter was then fermented with Skare Kveik and Brewolutions British Ale.
The boiled third was also fermented with British Ale Yeast.
All three were dry-hopped with Mosaic and Pacific Jade, and added a hop-tea of the same hops before bottling.
This way, I assume, I can judge what the boiling does for the beer, as well as what Skare is really up to.
Sounds like a very interesting experiment to me Søren :) Do let me know the outcome and how you like the hop combination :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I now have the verdict of a few different beer-lovers.
The boiled one is the least interesting, not being near as full-bodied and fruit/malty as the two raws.
There is only little difference between the Skare Kveik version and the British Ale version with the former being a little more sour. Not in a bad way and a few pointed that out as an advantage.
My personal favorite is the Raw with British Ale yeast, and it is definitely not the last time, I will brew a raw.
Thanks again for your advice.
Cheers and "happy brewing"
You're a hero for making these videos. Just a quick question - why not dry hop with hop tea 3-4 days in? Is there a reason for your choice of dry hopping in the conventional way in primary?
It depends on the result you want and econony. Hop tea added at the end will give you more flavour for the hops used. Adding both hop tea and dry hops acts to layer the hops for the taste differences giving hop effect variety.
I love Galaxy/Mosaic but I use a lot of "debittered" Mosaic. Working at the homebrew store I've seen a lot of people's favorites; some other interesting hops i don't see as often in videos are: Sabro, Mandarina Bavaria, Huell Melon, and South African Queen.
Thanks Ben. Yes, lots of great combos that people seem to miss. I do highlight quite a few in my recipes but people often sub to what they already have!! We can but try :)
From my own experience I'd say that ratio malt:water for best efficiency can be 4 and even little more, because it's better for amilazas activity
Its all personal taste in the end.
tks for the great video David! How is the Plaato hydrometer so far? hope to see it's review soon
Yes good but there are changes coming soon, so I will review it after those come in :)
David can you post a brewfather link to this recipe so I can import and scale this. Thanks and thanks for all the work you do on these videos they are an invaluable resource for us
I am away from home right now so it is not so easy to check this one but it looks right for a small GF batch. I am not seeing the larger version I settled on nor the yeast but it is a faster starting point for you I hope:- Raw Hazy IPA 10L share.brewfather.app/LmdKoPtLJKTYOj
Totally been meaning to brew a raw ale for awhile now, I think we commented on a few similar post regarding the issue 😉😂😂
Hi! Go for it :) It could change how you brew forever :)
Thanks again for this great video. I’ll use this recipe together with carafa iii for a raw black neipa next week. One question though: normally I cold steep the carafa iii (or late addition). How to get this pasteurized without a boil?
Adding at mash out temps will be fine
Thanks for the excellent content. I can’t figure out why you would prefer to make a hop tea over adding those hops to a whirlpool after the Sparge? Seems to me you would get better utilization and perhaps less oxidation issues. You could still pick a similar temp for the hops, say 160-180F to avoid DMS and still no boil.
Thanks Mark. By adding a hop tea instead you will get a much fresher and stronger effect as it is added after fermentation and last in the process. Try it and you will see what I mean.
Hi David. Great video. I have one question. Why dont you use hoptea for both hop additions? Thanks :-)
Thank you. It is better to do it like this :)
HI David, I love your videos! Just a question on this older one. SKARE is mostly known for clean, lager like beers. I'm brewing a NEIPA this weekend (not raw). I was planning on using Verdant but I do have some dried SKARE. Watching this makes me wonder if I should try it or should I just stick to my original plan with Verdant that i've never used?
Yes skare and verdant are pretty much at opposite ends. They will both work. Verdant will add in more tropical fruit flavours, where as skare will push forward your recipe. There is no right answer :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you for answering so quickly! I have a few other kveiks i've never used yet. About 1g flakes of Arset and Ebbegarden in the refridgerator. Both are supposed to be nice for NEIPA as well. I may just end up throwing the yeasts in a hat and pick one to see what results I get.
How about seperating the wort and use a few different types of yeast? Always interesting :)
Brilliant video again mate!!
Just a question, is there any disadvantage to fermenting say US05 yeast under the recommended temperature? Specifically 13 degrees. I usually do this for 1 week then bump it up 1 degrees per day until ambient temp. I do this for most of my hop toward beers.
Many thanks Mel. As long as it is working then no :) Some yeast will work like this but many will not start fermentation.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Cheers, I guess as the saying goes " if it works, then it works"
Exactly :)
Hey david great video again. I wonder is it the same if you put the hop tea straight up to wort than already fermented beer. I dont have a secondary fermenter so it would be much more easier to add it to wort so i dont mess with the yeast before bottling. Thanks
Very sorry for the late reply, CZcams has been buggy recently so I only just saw this message. Yes, no problem there. It will just take more time to mix in evenly.
And this is another reason you're my favorite channel for homebrewing info, and most especially raw brewing. Your recipes are fantastic, you always give the whys and enough info to enable people to experiment or make do of their set up is different or lacking, and if someone pays attention to the comment sections then most questions they could have have already been answered.
Thank you for being such a wealth of info. Especially for unique styles like raw ale, because it's so different from what most of us know. I was planning on a celebratory Spring brew and poking around my favorites when I rediscovered this, and it fits the bill and then some. It just looks so delicious, simple, and quick. Thanks again.
Thank you, much appreciated :)
Yes, I value all the points you mention. It saddens me that all over the internet there are recipes shared by people who cannot explain the details or simply do not care to. I work hard on my recipes and I only share them once they are in a finished build. I cannot see the value of doing this any other way.
Great video, what temperature did you use for fermentation?
Edit: Ah sorry, just noticed, temp of 32*C
What do you think about fermenting kveik in room temperature of 25*C?
I don't have heated fermentation chamber, just a controlled fridge. :)
or perhaps I could leave the fermenter in a fridge that has been turned off and let kveik heat it up?
Thank you. With kveik you really need the higher temps. I would suggest a temp controller with a heat belt. Not expensive and very useful :)
David, do you ever have the bouncer filter clog and if so do you just stop the flow, clean it out and continue. I like the idea of a no boil but my next one on deck is your Norwegian Harvest Ale using Ebbegarden Kveik from the ‘Kveik Buy/Sell’ group.
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I saw in the video that you did not overflow because of the mixup with pipework. I would be interested about the re-circulation because the pump rate (fully open) is much greater than the drain rate. Did the open pipe onto the grain bed help here.
Hi James, the drain rate is really a variable based on grain bill and crush. I got my usual numbers because I did a couple of stir sessions for a few minutes during the mash. I ordered a new small batch pipework, ive no idea where I have put that small top pipe! I also had a better flow due to the camlocks (nobody noticed yet!) I have a video coming next week on this :)
Hey David,
Have a question regarding the hop tea.
A bit of background: I have been super hooked on the recent "juice bombs" such as the ones from Verdant, North brewing, cloudwater.
I've had little luck achieving that. I do a hopstand for about 40 minutes using a lot of hops at ~73C. I understand I should be doing that at lower temps, such as 66C, but as a home brewer, I find it hard due to the need to be mixing the hops in for a longer time than if I were doing that at a higher temp.
Anyways, will this actually help me get to the juiciness levels that some of the breweries manage to achieve using the hop tea method? Or is it actually exactly what those breweries are doing to achieve these amazing tastes?
Hey :) I think you will find that hop tea is a great way to get that ”juicy factor” without much fuss. Because it is added after fermentation it provides a clearer flavour also.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for the repsonse! I've tried mosaic amarillo hop tea, and while it's not the brightest flavour, it's a very nice and mild combo while still giving that "juicy factor". Pretty swell. Going to have to experiment a little bit with different hops, ratios. This is amazing!
I lost my top pipe in the compost a couple times. Once was in winter so by the time I suspected it it was well frozen in. I couldn't retrieve it until Spring...I have a couple now
Yes, I guess most people have :)
This is interesting. I've imported the recipe to my Brewfather and scaled up to 20L & just considered that with no boil - instead of an OG reading, the real figure to aim for when scaling ingredients is the preboil. To achieve a pre boil SG of 1.070 is quite a big scale up .. Does this sound like an accurate assumption David? Thanks for the great recipes.
You should be fine just by scaling mine. It still calculates water as if there is some sort of boil but just sparge according to what you need.
Thanks David! Do you boil the tea strainers before every dry hop? I have the same ones and just wondered...And do you weigh them down with marbles?
Thanks :) Mostly I drop them in a PBW mix at 55 deg c for an hour or two then rinse and sanitise. I find that marbles are the best solution when using low amounts of hops in them but I do very little of that :) These had 35g in them and that was plenty to make them sink down to the bottom.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply David. If you have a heavy dry hop what would you suggest?
I would not go higher than 240g for 25L, max contact time of 5 days
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Sorry, I meant how would you weigh them down. I find that I can only get 120 odd grams into 3 big strainers with marbles. Maybe the solution is to have a separate one filled with marbles, connected to the others.
Yes that would work but with that smount of hops they should sink. I would suggest that you only half fill them though. When I have fill mine they usually sink. If not then 1 marble does it.
Im so gonna try this. Any advice on the yeast if i cant get kveik?
Go for a British yeast or conan just like like a regular NEIPA.
Whitelabe eastcoast pale ale yeast!!!
David in this video I can't tell if you are removing the sanitizer before sparge. I would assume so but just wanted to confirm
Hi, Yes that is removed first :)
Hi I'm planning on trying my first no boil brew after watching a few of your videos on the subject. Normally I sanitise the grainfather counterflowchiller by circulating the boiling wort, how do you sanitise it for a no boil? Thanks
Hi Martin, Add some sanitiser to the GF before you get started and run it through the CFC.
Thanks David, pretty obvious now you have said it 🙂
Hi David, what levels of chloride and sulphate would you recommend for this brew?
I would go 3 to 1 :)
Hello David, how could I scale up the hop tea without over diluting my final beer?
You could add actual beer or wort. Reheat it to a boil first and then let it cool to the temps mentioned in the video before adding the hops :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Great idea, thanks a lot!
David, Three queries follow and Ta for this exciting Raw Niepa. Your work here on behalf of beginners like me, is priceless, many thanks.
1. Liquor->Grist ratio at timeline 4.07. Imperial and Metric given but might be Imperial better be described as ‘Piints per Pound’ so as to keep the same ratio as Metric?
2. How to substitute a recipe Malt in GF app. You’ve explained before how to do this but I can’t find where/how to do it. Plse, can you point to that vid again?
3. I can’t find your original Raw Neipa recipe in GF App. There are many acknowledged copies but most if not all don’t come close to the original, can you put this recipe in GF app again, please?
Hi Billy, great to hear :)
Here are some answers
1) Could be, I am really not in the zone with imperial personally. I have been using metric only for decades.
2) I have not done this for the GF app, just Brewfather but I would think that it is very similar.
3) Sorry but I do not use the GF app anymore. What you can do is enter the recipe yourself or edit one you can find with the recipe.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply, David. Last question, would Perle do instead of Pacific Jade?
(P. Jade - I haven't been able to source it, hence the request for substitution. I found your recipes on brewfather, ta.)
Its more like Magnum with Saaz but Perle should work ok without being quite the same
I wonder if one to substitute Hops what meters to follow, probably not the AA of Hops? I wonder if this could be done say with classic Cascade hops etc. How do you usually go about introducing new hop combos. Is this 35g for each hop has some guideline to follow?
The IBU of each addition is vital and this is dependant on the AA% of your hops. They will be different to mine. I have a guide that talks you through how to deal with this here:- czcams.com/video/lYA_UzDkW9o/video.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks that makes sense.
Does anyone have a calculation for mash and sparge volume on the Grainfather using the no boil method? The Grainfather calculations caused me to undershoot the original gravity by 0.012
Check out Grainfathers mash and sparge calcs on the website.
Is it possible to make any beer without the boil?
Sure, though you may have to do a small pan boil in your kitchen for more bitter styles.
About to try this one soon, but with different hop combo, and with Lallemand Voss Kveik. How about Amarrilo and El Dorado combination? Thanks.
This recipe was designed around the hop combination shared but naturally other hops can be tried. The pairing you mention should work :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks a lot, David. Cheers!
Anytime :)
Out of interest, how long do you have to mature raw beers?
It is not so different to beers that have been boiled.
How is the bitter profile in this beer ? It seems to me that it would be too low......
NEIPA styles are a low level of bitterness due to the hops being just late additions. You will get a “percieved” level of bitterness from how the hops are added.
Could a raw stout work? Beamish is a 30min boil but could you do a no boil
Yes, they work very well in fact.
Hello David. I am very new to all grain and have tried your Irish red and now about to try this one. I really appreciate your efforts mate it makes so much sense to us newbies. Silly question but when you dry hop it says for 4 days, does this mean you take the hops out after 4 days, or do you leave them in until kegging after the 20 days fermentation. Thanks again
Great to hear Colin :)
All timings in brewing are what remains. So in this case 4 days until the end. With dry hops add them when fermentation is almost finished, 5-10 gravity points away, then instead of removing you can transfer the beer instead. Dry hop tines are ideally 3-5 days.
Thanks again David your information is very much appreciated
Cheers Colin 🍻🍻🍻
Hey David, I recently brewed a raw NEIPA, I split the batch into two different fermenters and pitched different yeasts as a bit of experimenting. I missed the opportunity to dry hop, so I added all the hops as hop tea when transferring to kegs. After transferring the tea and beer to the kegs I carbonated for two weeks. I tried a little sample yesterday and notice there was no hop aroma at all. I used around 150g of hops in 1 litre of water for each keg, each kegs had approximately 17litres. After drawing a sample I’m unable to smell or taste hop aroma. Do you think if I leave it for a couple more weeks the aroma will come through. Am I just being impatient
Just to note the hops used in the hop tea were Bru 1, simcoe and Amarillo
Time and temperature are the culprits here I suspect.
Thanks for your message David 👍
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Hey David is there a way to know the ibu of this beer?
Thank you
Tricky :) Not bitter but not sweet. It's a typical NEIPA in many ways.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i guess I'm gonna base my Hop tea in this recipe then when I'll try something similar :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew BTW I have a bouncer filter that came with only the red filter
Is there much difference between that and the blue one in the video?
Thanks
Hi,
Again another great video.
But i have a question. Can you make a video about how to get the maximum brewhouse efficiency out of the GF. Because i’m stuck @ 60%.
And i’m not shure what i do wrong. Its getting verry frustrated. :-) .
Thanks Phillip. This video should give you what you need ? czcams.com/video/Vh0NPtFoAHw/video.html
If not then let me know :)
No boil? I had it drilled into me (wrongly it sounds?) from an early age that the boil is a must. Does this only affect hops? What about arresting diastatic activity and hot/ cold break- all gone? What is the impact of ignoring (have you?) hop isomerisation? Biggest question of all, by not boiling, it's full of bugs surely? This is a video I am going to have to watch a lot more carefully!
Beer for the longest time of our history was not boiled. Your questions and more answered in this video :- czcams.com/video/jKihXgIluwY/video.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hah- just watched and yes, thank you. So weird to learn that a long held belief- pasteurisation needs boiling point- is completely untrue! Of course, there are implications of increased protein by design etc. Do you a have a video on the effects of where (and how) in process hops affect taste? Or even if hops can be ditched altogether?!
Haha thanks Liam. Yes, check this out:- czcams.com/video/Uo1eFUOR5uU/video.html
hello! is your facebook account acitve? I tried to contact you from there about a recipe but I'm not sure if you are checking it or not.
Hi, yes it is super active. Problem is that I get many messages! I have just checked through though and see nothing from you? My facebook account uses the same photo shown on the "My story and the future of the channel" video. Perhaps you have a different David Heath?
What would be a good replacement/alternative for the Yeast?
Anything that works for NEIPA :)
Hornindal (omega), mitbust
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I managed to put a hand on some Omega HotHead Ale OYL-057, so I'll try with that one.
May I ask a bit more precision on the fermentation and dry hopping processes as it is a bit unclear to me? Please excuse me in advance if the question was already asked.
You are mentioning: “By the start of day 3 I was 8 points of predicted gravity away from final gravity, so it was time to do my dry hopping“.
I would like to know if you are conducting a secondary fermentation (even if no tank transfer / just to eliminate the trub)? My guess is that it is not ideal to leave the fermented wort without any hops, so my understanding is that you do the dry hopping more or less 3 days after the start of fermentation and 4 days later you do the hop tea and bottling/kegging process. No more than approx. 7 days in total for the complete fermentation process.
Would that be correct?
Many thanks and keep up with your amazing work.
Hi, no problem :) With dry hopping wait until your yeast is close to the end of its job. 10 points or less to go is a great time to add the dry hops. I only transfer to secondary for two reasons. Firstly for beers that are strong and will need time conditioning in a separate vessel like a carboy. Or if the beer has fruit added. Other than these reasons no secondary is required of used much these days.
Yes, with kveik most of the time the fermentation is over in 3 days but I leave it 7 before transfer. This gives dry hops time and also the yeast time for clean up.
Can you share the brewfather recipe directly?
Do you know how I can do this?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew go to the recipe, then the button on bottom right, then share
@@j4nch Ok great! Here you go then:- share.brewfather.app/LmdKoPtLJKTYOj
no mashout?
There is a mash out :) Its in the recipe within the videos description.
I look on norway farmer, and don't understand how they sterilieses their wood mash tun.
With temperature 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So, why do you sanitarizing your equipment so carefully?😊
You dont need to sanitize your actual brewing system. Just clean it :)