UPDATE: 1. I just did my 5.7 and I found it easier passing my starter and heat shield forward through a larger hole on the front side of the truck. Where your camera angle @3:20 when disconnecting the starter wire is where I passed it through. 2. I used a 30inch and 12inch extentions to take the starter bolts off. 3. I used a pair of small 3/8 extensions to cap off the two coolant lines, which is needed to be moved to get at the top starter bolt. Thanks your video helped. I like the silicon tip to sure up the connection.
As a matter of principle I always remember to smash the like button when the author has the broad shoulders to show a broken plastic connector rather than glossing it over. Knowing how to deal with those kind of misadventures is what makes watching these videos worthwhile.
Hell nah mf 2017 tacoma starter good fucking luck same thing behind the manifold but if you don't wanna take out the mani u gotta split the starter in 2 and take it out and put it in like that it's fucked
This video seriously helped me. I have never done this type of repair before, it got me from knowing nothing to fully functional truck. Thank you so much!
Great video, this is probably one of the most challenging repairs I’ve performed. Not due to the task but Toyotas engineering has extremely tight tolerances not a lot of room. I was quoted $1000 for the job. Great step by step. One thing I did differently was loosened up the motor mount, jacked up the motor and I was able to remove the starter from the wheel well. Also, I went with a factory starter. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the GREAT video! I have a 2015 Tundra and did not know if this video would apply to it. Fortunately it did. There were several videos showing how to replace the starter without removing the exhaust but I liked this one the best because the video was superb and the narration was excellent. The video had all the important steps and tips to help complete a rather difficult starter replacement. Thanks for creating this so I could use it as a guide to help replace my starter! Keep up the good work!
Great video! You warned how hard it was and you were right.. i saw other videos before starting and this was the most clear cut well presented video. I did remove the solenoid to reinstall though and was much easier. I wish i would have done better clamping those lines. Swivel sockets and a long extension is a must. Ratchet wrenches were helpful too. Last thing just go ahead and buy the pigtail solenoid connector and just replace it.
Outstanding, thank you! What a great tip on the silicone gasket on the broken tabs. Anytime one so those broke in the past, I died a little inside. Now, I can die a little less.
On one hand, I'm mad at you for making a video that encouraged me to take the job on. On the other hand, I'm glad I managed to get it done, all thanks to you. I have a 4x4 and did not have to remove an engine mount bolt or touch the exhaust manifold. I did remove the solenoid to get the starter to slide out, I bet that helped. I did have to loosen the cooler line bracket and disconnect the lines to get access. Every bolt was a battle. My crowning achievement in life is replacing the upper bolt on the inner heat shield. If I had to do it again, I would probably cough up the $1100 my mechanic quoted me.
Thanks for the video. Really helped me change mine out at 238k miles. It was not an easy job. I didn’t remove exhaust or the coolant lines. I did remove the bracket holding the lines so make some room for the top bolt holding starter. I removed the solenoid from the starter to remove down between the frame/drive shaft and the oil pan. Also reinstalled the same way and reinstalled the solenoid once it was close to position. Thanks again for posting the video. This one was the most informative.
Because most people see that the CZcams algorithm favors longer videos with some humor and such in them. I love making fat to the point videos, but it's hard to build a successful Channel with that kind of content. I only get 1.5% view time from my subscribers LOL. People come for the fix, toss a subscribe and then roll. :) Still gonna be no-nonsense for life when it comes to a fix It video
Thank you Thank you, I have a 2014 4WD crew cab tundra......I did it.....was a lot of skill work, not for a beginner definitely,, your video was extremely helpfull, I removed from same location as you but I manage to leave coolant lines in place, just push them and wiggle and wiggle harder and wiggle it again, the starter came out and went in without problems......
Great video Thanks for the quick content it was much help. I've been a mechanic on and off for about 20 years. This was my first 5.7L Tundra starter and was surprised how tight that sucker is in there. Anyhow thought I would add a few notes for others. Ive read that some said they did not have to remove the coolant lines but there is no way to get the upper starter bolt out on the 08 I worked on as the lines bend right in front of it. Even with the cooler line bracket bolt removed I could not uncover the upper bolt enough to get the socket on it unless I broke the cooler lines free. One part that was missed is when you should remove the wires attached to the starter. You must remove the large cable with the 12mm nut first so the harness has enough play to fold it out of the way so you can move the starter back. Do not try to remove the snap in plug connector until the starter is dropped down some so you can twist it toward you for access. Make sure to have the right tools for this job or it will take for ever. A must as shown in the vid is a 10mm ratcheting wrench, extra long flat head screw driver for plastic starter wire cover and for bending the starter shield so you can remove it , multiple long extensions for access to the starter bolts, an electric 3/8 drive ratchet would be a big help as well as a electric 1/2" impact or breaker bar for the upper starter bolt. It was difficult to clock the starter just right to move it out between the frame and the lines. I did not loosen the engine mount nut as shown in other vids but tried many different clocking positions for about 15 mins straight before it came out. On the positive the new Denso OEM starter units as well as the aftermarket style in your vid are much smaller in case size so they pop in and move around much easier. I did this job on the lift and it took a few hours, I cant imagine doing this job in the ground.
I'm doing this with my friend on the ground and it sucks but to get that top starter bolt out he put a shoe string around the coolant lines and pulled really hard while I put a socket on the bold head
Thanks for the video a great help, could not have done it without the video. A couple of things I did differently: 1. Unbolted the cooler hose bracket to remove upper starter bolt but did not disconnect the hoses. 2. The starter came out and in from the front instead of the back. 3. Like you, I also broke the connector clip, so I bought a 1-way TS187 pigtail with an extra 6" of wire. This helps for an easier install and future replacement. You can connect the pigtail, install the starter and positive wire and add another connector or splice the tail end of the new TS187 wire farther down the harness for easier access. Thanks again!
Great video. Made me realize in less than a minute that this job was past my daily skill set. I'm better off earning money working my job while paying a pro with all the right equipment to do this tricky one.
For those of you wondering how to remove the starter from the front, the following might help you out, as it did for me. Simple as this...remove the solenoid from the starter. Two, 10mm nuts hold it on there and are not difficult to break loose. Just rearrange the starter in a position towards the rear so you can easily locate the 2 solenoid nuts. Everything else must be disconnected from the starter so you can easily manipulate it. Like as if you were going to slide it out the direction portrayed in this video, which by the way was extremely helpful. However, even with clamping the coolant hoses, I still could not get it removed. But after removing the solenoid and finagling it around in between the CV axle, I was finally able to get it to drop out. This defintely is not an easy job, especially from the ground, but following this video step by step, using the exact same tools, just about anyone (with patience) can get this accomplished. Again, a great big thanks to NoNonsenseKnowHow for such a quality video. This saved me well over $1,000!!!
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this, it saved me so much time. The book wanted me to take off the exhaust manifold. Glad I didn’t need to do that
Hey fellow Tundra Lovers or Haters! No need to open coolant lines. after starter is removed from bell housing you CAN separate the starter solenoid from the starter motor and it will come right out near control arm frame area. Keeps you from potentially overheating due to air in system and isnt difficult to do. this is a GREAT video btw, no fluff and b.s!
Thank you! The starter is one of the things I expect to fail next on my 2008 Sequoia Platinum, and when it does, this video will surely save a good deal of time by skipping the exhaust manifold.
No problem man! Too bad they don't make Tundras manual transmission anymore otherwise you could have just bump started it right! I bought the last year Tundra that they made manual transmission. 2004. You going to take on the starter replacement yourself?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I did not know they don't do manual anymore. That is a shame no one learns how to drive a stick anymore. I found the starter and debating. I may tackle it myself.
Thanks a lot! It was helpfull! ..... THIS METHOD CAN BE IMPROVED: It is necessary to remove the solenoid before pulling the starter out! After this it is NOT necessary to disconnect the coolant hoses! These hoses will need to be pressed up, and the starter can be pulled out!
The plastic connector falling apart is so authentic. This is what happens in real life. Never see that in these videos. Just happened to me days ago with a 10 year old jag. The connector turned to sand with the most ginger squeeze.
Great video! I removed the catalytic converter and moved it out of the way. It only took about five minutes and made a lot more room to get the starter out as well as get to the cooler line bracket bolt.
@@moparacer74 lucky! Haha everything up north is rusty corroded and doesn't come lose to Easy if it's seen a lot of the elements. Haha just figured I'd ask.
@@theresonly2genders2023 Do they salt the roads there? That can really cause some corrosion. I was a light vehicle mechanic at a mine that used mag chloride on the roads. Talk about some corrosion! It destroyed any bare metal it touched. And it was like concrete when it dried up. It would form on the skid plates and eat an inch or so off the bottom of the transfer cases. Then they wouldn't hold fluid any more.
also you dont have to take off the coolant hoses when u get the starter heatshield out. disconnect the starter harness then come forward with the starter and itll fall out inbetween the lower control arm! worked for me! 2015 sequia
In addition to good info in the video here are a couple suggestions that may help some people. First...replace only the solenoid. Second...cut the lip off the top of starter heat shield to dramatically simplify reinstallation. On the solenoid: the problem with these starters is often not the starter itself but the solenoid. If it clicks but does not crank...and if you hold the key in start position for a few seconds and then retry...and it starts...it is probably the solenoid. It is possible to purchase and R&R the solenoid without completely removing the starter. In my case (2007 Tundra), I could not get the starter out without removing the half-shaft...which I did not do. I replaced the solenoid with the starter removed but trapped. The starter heat shield slid in easily after I cut the lip off the top half. This does not compromise the heat shield but it slides in much more easily. I did not attempt to install the 3rd (top bolt) on the heat shield...FYI.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate you adding some tips for others. I would recommend replacing the brushes to anybody that's looking to just replace the solenoid. They get worn out and while you're in there certainly worthwhile to replace them
Ok, it is time for my 2 cents on this. 1. No Nonsense Know How explains that to get the top bolt of the heat shield on the starter you need to drop down the starter to get access. Then you need to remove the top bolt and fight the heat shield out. SO if you can't remove the starter with the heat shield attached how are you going to install the starter and put in the top bolt. Your not. You are going to leave out the top bolt because you have too. 2. Someone else mentioned that it is a good idea to trim the top edge of the heat shield, I totally agree. I cut 3/4 to 1/2 an inch off the top to remove most of the curved top section. I trimmed above the rivet on the solenoid end of the shield ( to the front of the truck) and cut below some of the rivets on the horizontal section of the heat shield. I had a little de-lamination of the layers so I popped in a pop rivet to hold the layers together. engineering
I removed the solenoid to remove it, same thing to install. Little patience it's actually easy to reinstall behind the exhaust manifold. Just remember orientation. Saved a lot of dismantle. Snug ,but comes out going to the rear of the truck and down.
You don’t need to disconnect cooler hoses. The nut for the engine mount is right there, take it off crank engine up about an inch and take it out under or above frame through wheel well.
Just did this, not always easy fiddling with the starter, if needed remove the solenoid before installing and install when you get it in place, once you do this you can insert it through the cv shaft area. Also the heat shields I would suggest reinstalling but for the starter heat shield if your plastic for the power cable broke off like mine did will arc and spark when trying to install, so I cut it in half where just the two bolts on the bottom are exported and the solenoid area is uncovered. If that makes sense. It’s a tight squeeze but doable aside from paying someone to do it.
Thank you! I did everything except take the coolant hoses off, there was enough slack for me to slide the bolt most of the way out. Thank the Maker for that because I had nothing to plug them with. Thanks again! Took me 4 hours to get it off.
Nice video sir. 2 weeks ago i have starter problems with my 2011 Sequoia 5.7L and is winter here, for that reason i let the Toyota dealer to replace it. Damage on my pocket was $1760. This is to much and ridiculous.
That's what I strive for, thanks for pointing it out. I will say though this job is pretty tough compared to most starters. Definitely tight in there! Good luck on it if you happen to be doing one
We have been in the market for an older (1st Gen) Sequoia, but this video, the started location on the starter in addition to a timing belt on the 4.7L pushed me over the edge to go with a 172k mile 2008 that we got today. (easier starter location and timing chain) For not a lot more money, I think I'll be a lot more happy with the 5.7L engine / transmission set up. Thanks for the great video!
So I just saw your video it was very helpful I was able to remove the starter but the part that you said that would probably brake it did and you said to put some silicone on it. Well i forgot to put the part in without putting silicone on it will it be ok
Yup, is winter here now. Last week my 2011 Sequoia starter when bad so I let the Toyota dealer to replace with New starter. And the Damage on my pocket was $1760. This is ridiculous.
@NoNonsenseKnowHow This is my second time replacing the starter in my 07, for the life of me I can’t remember how I got it out and the new one back in? I got it out last night by removing the selenoid but don’t really want to do that on the new one. Any tips? Thanks greatly appreciated
Take the front passenger differential bolts loose and the starter will slide out between the axle and frame. Don’t have to touch the cooler lines. The bolts are 19 mm and easily accessible
Thanks for the video. I just finished this job on the floor by myself and it totally sucked. Was quoted 800-1000 by shops and should’ve saved my sanity and took to a pro. My takeaways…1. A six sided 14 mm socket on a long 1/2 in drive cordless torque wrench really helps for that top bolt 2. I couldn’t get it out with selanoid still on 3. Be careful sliding the selanoid power clip in, it so awkward that I pushed mine in at an angle and bent the tab inside the selanoid. And always test the starter before installing…would’ve saved me a lot of time. So glad to be done
Just replaced mine today, worst starter replacement I ever have had the displeasure to do. I removed the pass. side cat and pipe b/c mine was bad and needed to be replace anyway but I managed to crush the Trans cooler tube when trying to remove the hoses... Got to order a new one for an additional $250.00... Still beat the crap out of the price the dealer quoted me, but holy S... what a Pain in the A$$
I replaced the starter and now when I hooked up the battery cable the starter to spins without the key on or anything. It doesn't engage the flywheel. It just spins constantly. I know I hooked all the wires up correctly. Is something shorted out inside the solenoid, or the starter? Both parts are brand new.
I took print screens of this video & made a bullet list with links to the pictures... This way you dont have to keep replaying and dont miss any steps.
Very helpful Thank you for the links to parts and tools, makes the job alot easier. I would add if decided to remove cat. soak bolts and Maybe hav a cpl studs some called turbo studs. I always seem to break atleast one stud. But the video 2 Thumbs up!!!!
I cannot get the top 12mm bolt off the starter. I cant get to it behid the coolant lines. I removed the bolt thats holds on the coolant lines bracket but im struggling to get a socket behind the cooland lines. Is there a secret tool or trick?
One tip is to back off the passengers side motor mount about 3/4.. then jack up engine under oil pan.. only need to lift about 4 inches. That will give you much more clearance. Got the job down to about 90 minutes..
It's not easier to pull the manifold, because you have to pull the cat and down pipe. I'm in the rust belt, so the 12mm head nuts needed 7/16 sockets pounded onto them, before they came off, and it took several combinations of socket, extension, swivel, stubby, middy, and deepwell, extractor, and 12mm and 7/16 for the rusty ones. Took me about 3 hrs. Good tip is buy the pigtail, it's _going to break_ !!
BIG tip....only install Toyota starter....autozone,oreilly,advance won't last any time and trust me you don't want to install this starter more than once
Will this way work on a 4.7 L tundra as well? Is the starter the same for a 4.7 as in the description? Just trying to find away around messing with the exhaust manifold and all of the tubes. Also do you recommend trying to hit the old starter with a pipe first before replacing and cleaning the connections for the battery?
More. I think that you should be good to trim this small amount of shield off. If Toyota's engineering is so exact, that you could make the starter fail if the wind didn't blow in the right direction. Really?? Trim it you will be fine. Beyond these pointer I found the video very helpful. Remove the coolant line from the trans cooler. If you don't have the line pinching plyers in the video. I used needle nose vise grips ( the small one ) an to keep the jaws from cutting into the hose. Remove the lock bar in the vise grip to open up the jaws. Then wrap the jaws with electrical tape. This will cover the sharp edges of the jaws so they don't damage the hose. Beyond that, I think if the starter fails again. I'm gonna scrap the truck. 2 - 6 hours days to do this. Maybe the manifold method might be better.
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UPDATE: 1. I just did my 5.7 and I found it easier passing my starter and heat shield forward through a larger hole on the front side of the truck. Where your camera angle @3:20 when disconnecting the starter wire is where I passed it through. 2. I used a 30inch and 12inch extentions to take the starter bolts off. 3. I used a pair of small 3/8 extensions to cap off the two coolant lines, which is needed to be moved to get at the top starter bolt. Thanks your video helped. I like the silicon tip to sure up the connection.
Thx for the video i used a pry bar took me an hour to finish the job 😝👍!!!! All on my driveway dont be discouraged it was an easy job!
Headlamp worklight recommendation?
As a matter of principle I always remember to smash the like button when the author has the broad shoulders to show a broken plastic connector rather than glossing it over. Knowing how to deal with those kind of misadventures is what makes watching these videos worthwhile.
Newer cars makes me love my old car so much. It's 4 bolts for the flywheel shroud ,2 bolts for the starter and 2 nuts for the electrical connection.
Yeah I hear you on that! That's one of the reasons I love my 96 Dodge Ram Cummins 12 valve. Easiest truck ever to work on
Yea no shit! Those were the good old days.
Hell nah mf 2017 tacoma starter good fucking luck same thing behind the manifold but if you don't wanna take out the mani u gotta split the starter in 2 and take it out and put it in like that it's fucked
Well I know it has been 2 years since the video was posted but today was very helpful to me thank you so much.
This video seriously helped me. I have never done this type of repair before, it got me from knowing nothing to fully functional truck. Thank you so much!
Great video, this is probably one of the most challenging repairs I’ve performed. Not due to the task but Toyotas engineering has extremely tight tolerances not a lot of room. I was quoted $1000 for the job.
Great step by step. One thing I did differently was loosened up the motor mount, jacked up the motor and I was able to remove the starter from the wheel well. Also, I went with a factory starter.
Thanks for sharing.
Took me about 7-8 hrs on a 2013 Sequoia. Dog of a job. Would have taken 2x longer without your video. Was a very big help.. Many Many Thanks.
Thanks for the GREAT video! I have a 2015 Tundra and did not know if this video would apply to it. Fortunately it did. There were several videos showing how to replace the starter without removing the exhaust but I liked this one the best because the video was superb and the narration was excellent. The video had all the important steps and tips to help complete a rather difficult starter replacement. Thanks for creating this so I could use it as a guide to help replace my starter! Keep up the good work!
No problem! So glad to hear it was helpful for you and I greatly appreciate the feedback.
Great video! You warned how hard it was and you were right.. i saw other videos before starting and this was the most clear cut well presented video. I did remove the solenoid to reinstall though and was much easier. I wish i would have done better clamping those lines. Swivel sockets and a long extension is a must. Ratchet wrenches were helpful too. Last thing just go ahead and buy the pigtail solenoid connector and just replace it.
This video helped me change the starter in a parking lot. 👍
Great to hear it was helpful to you!
Outstanding, thank you! What a great tip on the silicone gasket on the broken tabs. Anytime one so those broke in the past, I died a little inside. Now, I can die a little less.
Mine broke off instantly, siliconed it but im convinced its going to come off some day and leave me stranded.
On one hand, I'm mad at you for making a video that encouraged me to take the job on. On the other hand, I'm glad I managed to get it done, all thanks to you.
I have a 4x4 and did not have to remove an engine mount bolt or touch the exhaust manifold. I did remove the solenoid to get the starter to slide out, I bet that helped. I did have to loosen the cooler line bracket and disconnect the lines to get access.
Every bolt was a battle. My crowning achievement in life is replacing the upper bolt on the inner heat shield.
If I had to do it again, I would probably cough up the $1100 my mechanic quoted me.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the video. Really helped me change mine out at 238k miles. It was not an easy job. I didn’t remove exhaust or the coolant lines. I did remove the bracket holding the lines so make some room for the top bolt holding starter. I removed the solenoid from the starter to remove down between the frame/drive shaft and the oil pan. Also reinstalled the same way and reinstalled the solenoid once it was close to position. Thanks again for posting the video. This one was the most informative.
Is yours a 4x4
Why can’t all videos be like this one. No nonsense, straightforward. Thank you.
Because most people see that the CZcams algorithm favors longer videos with some humor and such in them. I love making fat to the point videos, but it's hard to build a successful Channel with that kind of content. I only get 1.5% view time from my subscribers LOL. People come for the fix, toss a subscribe and then roll. :) Still gonna be no-nonsense for life when it comes to a fix It video
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow done. subscribed.
Thank you Thank you, I have a 2014 4WD crew cab tundra......I did it.....was a lot of skill work, not for a beginner definitely,, your video was extremely helpfull, I removed from same location as you but I manage to leave coolant lines in place, just push them and wiggle and wiggle harder and wiggle it again, the starter came out and went in without problems......
Thanks man, this definitely helped out a lot! I was dreading removing the exhaust
Great video Thanks for the quick content it was much help. I've been a mechanic on and off for about 20 years. This was my first 5.7L Tundra starter and was surprised how tight that sucker is in there. Anyhow thought I would add a few notes for others.
Ive read that some said they did not have to remove the coolant lines but there is no way to get the upper starter bolt out on the 08 I worked on as the lines bend right in front of it. Even with the cooler line bracket bolt removed I could not uncover the upper bolt enough to get the socket on it unless I broke the cooler lines free. One part that was missed is when you should remove the wires attached to the starter. You must remove the large cable with the 12mm nut first so the harness has enough play to fold it out of the way so you can move the starter back. Do not try to remove the snap in plug connector until the starter is dropped down some so you can twist it toward you for access. Make sure to have the right tools for this job or it will take for ever. A must as shown in the vid is a 10mm ratcheting wrench, extra long flat head screw driver for plastic starter wire cover and for bending the starter shield so you can remove it , multiple long extensions for access to the starter bolts, an electric 3/8 drive ratchet would be a big help as well as a electric 1/2" impact or breaker bar for the upper starter bolt.
It was difficult to clock the starter just right to move it out between the frame and the lines. I did not loosen the engine mount nut as shown in other vids but tried many different clocking positions for about 15 mins straight before it came out. On the positive the new Denso OEM starter units as well as the aftermarket style in your vid are much smaller in case size so they pop in and move around much easier. I did this job on the lift and it took a few hours, I cant imagine doing this job in the ground.
Thanks man and great to hear the video was helpful to you. Also I really appreciate you adding the extra tips and information for others! Thanks
I'm doing this with my friend on the ground and it sucks but to get that top starter bolt out he put a shoe string around the coolant lines and pulled really hard while I put a socket on the bold head
Right on brother. Thank you for your knowledge and skill to share it with those of us who have Tundras. Thank you very much
Thanks for the video a great help, could not have done it without the video. A couple of things I did differently: 1. Unbolted the cooler hose bracket to remove upper starter bolt but did not disconnect the hoses. 2. The starter came out and in from the front instead of the back. 3. Like you, I also broke the connector clip, so I bought a 1-way TS187 pigtail with an extra 6" of wire. This helps for an easier install and future replacement. You can connect the pigtail, install the starter and positive wire and add another connector or splice the tail end of the new TS187 wire farther down the harness for easier access. Thanks again!
Great to hear it was helpful and I really appreciate you adding some tips for others! Thanks
Here we go...you make it look easier than it is going to be for sure lol good vidjéo sir!
Great video. Made me realize in less than a minute that this job was past my daily skill set. I'm better off earning money working my job while paying a pro with all the right equipment to do this tricky one.
This is the most helpful video I’ve seen on this. Thanks. 🙏
For those of you wondering how to remove the starter from the front, the following might help you out, as it did for me. Simple as this...remove the solenoid from the starter. Two, 10mm nuts hold it on there and are not difficult to break loose. Just rearrange the starter in a position towards the rear so you can easily locate the 2 solenoid nuts. Everything else must be disconnected from the starter so you can easily manipulate it. Like as if you were going to slide it out the direction portrayed in this video, which by the way was extremely helpful. However, even with clamping the coolant hoses, I still could not get it removed. But after removing the solenoid and finagling it around in between the CV axle, I was finally able to get it to drop out. This defintely is not an easy job, especially from the ground, but following this video step by step, using the exact same tools, just about anyone (with patience) can get this accomplished. Again, a great big thanks to NoNonsenseKnowHow for such a quality video. This saved me well over $1,000!!!
Thanks for sharing made the job so much easier know it’s could be done without removing the manifold only took 2 hours
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this, it saved me so much time. The book wanted me to take off the exhaust manifold. Glad I didn’t need to do that
you the man dude save me a headache at work thamk you! step by step perfectly thank you
Hey fellow Tundra Lovers or Haters! No need to open coolant lines. after starter is removed from bell housing you CAN separate the starter solenoid from the starter motor and it will come right out near control arm frame area. Keeps you from potentially overheating due to air in system and isnt difficult to do. this is a GREAT video btw, no fluff and b.s!
What about when you have to put the new Starter in will it fit?
@@lenoraboyd267new starter motor from Toyota is actually smaller. It replaced the big chunky one in this video
Thank you! The starter is one of the things I expect to fail next on my 2008 Sequoia Platinum, and when it does, this video will surely save a good deal of time by skipping the exhaust manifold.
no problem! Thanks
Your the man, great finagling!!
Great job 👍🏾
And thanks for showing us
God bless you 🙏🏾
Thanks for the information. That helped me out when my truck stopped turning over.
No problem man! Too bad they don't make Tundras manual transmission anymore otherwise you could have just bump started it right! I bought the last year Tundra that they made manual transmission. 2004. You going to take on the starter replacement yourself?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I did not know they don't do manual anymore. That is a shame no one learns how to drive a stick anymore. I found the starter and debating. I may tackle it myself.
Thanks a lot!
It was helpfull!
.....
THIS METHOD CAN BE IMPROVED:
It is necessary to remove the solenoid before pulling the starter out!
After this it is NOT necessary to disconnect the coolant hoses!
These hoses will need to be pressed up, and the starter can be pulled out!
Fantastic vid bro. Thank you!
The plastic connector falling apart is so authentic. This is what happens in real life. Never see that in these videos. Just happened to me days ago with a 10 year old jag. The connector turned to sand with the most ginger squeeze.
I just did it today it’s a pain in the ass but it works thanks
No problem!
Only video that helped me thank you!!!
Awesome! And no prob!
Thanks! Saved for whenever mine poops out.
sweet!
Yeh this was perfect, thank you sir
Great video! I removed the catalytic converter and moved it out of the way. It only took about five minutes and made a lot more room to get the starter out as well as get to the cooler line bracket bolt.
What state do you live in lmao
Asking cause I live in Wisconsin. Shit don't be coming apart so easy hahaha .
@@theresonly2genders2023 Northern Nevada
@@moparacer74 lucky! Haha everything up north is rusty corroded and doesn't come lose to Easy if it's seen a lot of the elements. Haha just figured I'd ask.
@@theresonly2genders2023 Do they salt the roads there? That can really cause some corrosion. I was a light vehicle mechanic at a mine that used mag chloride on the roads. Talk about some corrosion! It destroyed any bare metal it touched. And it was like concrete when it dried up. It would form on the skid plates and eat an inch or so off the bottom of the transfer cases. Then they wouldn't hold fluid any more.
Thank you Man , we are working in the same vehicle starter removal
No problem! Glad you found it helpful
also you dont have to take off the coolant hoses when u get the starter heatshield out. disconnect the starter harness then come forward with the starter and itll fall out inbetween the lower control arm! worked for me! 2015 sequia
Thanks so much for this direct, very helpful video.
No problem! Happy to hear you found it useful
Great video, nice camera work and sound. No wonder they want a 1000.00 to replace this starter at the dealer. Wow that thing is buried in there.
Thanks man. And yeah she's a real pita to get to. An OEM starter is probably a pretty good chunk of change as well
Great video. Very useful in helping me determine this is beyond my current skills, tools, and determination. :-)
Awesome video man. Thanks a lot
Thanks and no problem man
Very helpful, thanks for sharing!
No problem!
In addition to good info in the video here are a couple suggestions that may help some people. First...replace only the solenoid. Second...cut the lip off the top of starter heat shield to dramatically simplify reinstallation. On the solenoid: the problem with these starters is often not the starter itself but the solenoid. If it clicks but does not crank...and if you hold the key in start position for a few seconds and then retry...and it starts...it is probably the solenoid. It is possible to purchase and R&R the solenoid without completely removing the starter. In my case (2007 Tundra), I could not get the starter out without removing the half-shaft...which I did not do. I replaced the solenoid with the starter removed but trapped. The starter heat shield slid in easily after I cut the lip off the top half. This does not compromise the heat shield but it slides in much more easily. I did not attempt to install the 3rd (top bolt) on the heat shield...FYI.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate you adding some tips for others. I would recommend replacing the brushes to anybody that's looking to just replace the solenoid. They get worn out and while you're in there certainly worthwhile to replace them
awesome, now that doesn't look like an $1000 anymore. thank you.
Ok, it is time for my 2 cents on this.
1. No Nonsense Know How explains that to get the top bolt of the heat shield on the starter you need to drop down the starter to get access. Then you need to remove the top bolt and fight the heat shield out. SO if you can't remove the starter with the heat shield attached how are you going to install the starter and put in the top bolt. Your not. You are going to leave out the top bolt because you have too.
2. Someone else mentioned that it is a good idea to trim the top edge of the heat shield, I totally agree. I cut 3/4 to 1/2 an inch off the top to remove most of the curved top section. I trimmed above the rivet on the solenoid end of the shield ( to the front of the truck) and cut below some of the rivets on the horizontal section of the heat shield. I had a little de-lamination of the layers so I popped in a pop rivet to hold the layers together.
engineering
I removed the solenoid to remove it, same thing to install. Little patience it's actually easy to reinstall behind the exhaust manifold. Just remember orientation. Saved a lot of dismantle. Snug ,but comes out going to the rear of the truck and down.
i am also a mechanic great video keep up the good know how videos
Good stuff. And thank you for the encouragement
You don’t need to disconnect cooler hoses. The nut for the engine mount is right there, take it off crank engine up about an inch and take it out under or above frame through wheel well.
Just did this, not always easy fiddling with the starter, if needed remove the solenoid before installing and install when you get it in place, once you do this you can insert it through the cv shaft area. Also the heat shields I would suggest reinstalling but for the starter heat shield if your plastic for the power cable broke off like mine did will arc and spark when trying to install, so I cut it in half where just the two bolts on the bottom are exported and the solenoid area is uncovered. If that makes sense. It’s a tight squeeze but doable aside from paying someone to do it.
Awesome. Thanks for adding some tips for others!
Thank you! I did everything except take the coolant hoses off, there was enough slack for me to slide the bolt most of the way out. Thank the Maker for that because I had nothing to plug them with. Thanks again! Took me 4 hours to get it off.
awesome! Marvelous to hear the vid helped. thanks!
4 hours just to remove!?
ماقصرت على الشرح👍🏻
I don't know what that translates to but I assume it's positive because of the thumbs up. Thanks man
Great job! do you have a video on replacing the alternator as well?
Coming from a Tech that has to do one of these tomorrow with other vehicles throughout the day because I'm by myself. thank you. Haha
Thanks for keeping it simple for us.
You bet!
Nice video sir. 2 weeks ago i have starter problems with my 2011 Sequoia 5.7L and is winter here, for that reason i let the Toyota dealer to replace it. Damage on my pocket was $1760. This is to much and ridiculous.
You can leave the cooling lines on and remove the 2 14mm bolts off the mount and jack the engine a bit
Truly amazing session keeping it simple couldn't ask for a better example!!!
That's what I strive for, thanks for pointing it out. I will say though this job is pretty tough compared to most starters. Definitely tight in there! Good luck on it if you happen to be doing one
Very true no different working on a Chrysler 300. Dam alternators . Knuckle scrapers 😤
What a PITA place to put a starter. Geez.
Amazing you could film most of that.
Yeah definitely a ridiculous location.
And still 1000% better than where the starter on the 4.7L is located!
It's literally in the center of the engine! Yikes!
Yea for sure!
We have been in the market for an older (1st Gen) Sequoia, but this video, the started location on the starter in addition to a timing belt on the 4.7L pushed me over the edge to go with a 172k mile 2008 that we got today. (easier starter location and timing chain)
For not a lot more money, I think I'll be a lot more happy with the 5.7L engine / transmission set up.
Thanks for the great video!
So I just saw your video it was very helpful I was able to remove the starter but the part that you said that would probably brake it did and you said to put some silicone on it. Well i forgot to put the part in without putting silicone on it will it be ok
I’m about to do this job in the morning. I probably will just remove the exhaust manifold since they are nuts with studs.
Gracias por compartir
I just pulled.mine out of my 2009 Tundra 5.7 2wd and I pulled it out forward and out the bottom
Omg thank you so much I’m 15 years old btw
No problem at all man. Appreciate you dropping a comment. Getting started young! Good stuff
223K miles on my 2008 Tundra...hasn't failed yet but ready whenever that day comes!
Yeah they are pretty tough starter motor's. Who knows maybe you'll never have to replace it. My 2004 Tundra still has the original starter. 3.4 liter
Great video bud, is winter here and i have starter problem on my Sequoia and Toyota dealer quote me for $1760 tax included. This is ridiculous..
Yup, is winter here now. Last week my 2011 Sequoia starter when bad so I let the Toyota dealer to replace with New starter. And the Damage on my pocket was $1760. This is ridiculous.
Gr8 video
thx bud
@NoNonsenseKnowHow This is my second time replacing the starter in my 07, for the life of me I can’t remember how I got it out and the new one back in? I got it out last night by removing the selenoid but don’t really want to do that on the new one. Any tips? Thanks greatly appreciated
Take the front passenger differential bolts loose and the starter will slide out between the axle and frame. Don’t have to touch the cooler lines. The bolts are 19 mm and easily accessible
Took me about 6-7 hours & some busted up hands but hey, we saved some money 💰
Good to hear! That's what's up
Those battery terminals have seen better days
Damn you Toyota engineers! They buried that thing.
Very helpful video but the starter comes out much easier from the front
It didn't look that way on this one. But I'll definitely keep that in mind when I do one next time. Appreciate the input.
What did you have to remove
So what I toke away from watching this is. When my Starter fails buy a Complete aftermarket performance exhaust and headers. 😂🤣😂🙃
Did that. It’s a whole different nightmare!
Hi, how did you get the top 14m starter bolt off? I've tired everything I know and would appreciate it.
Mine failed yesterday at 236k. Thanks for the video and all the tips.
No problem! Very happy to hear it helped out
Thanks for the video. I just finished this job on the floor by myself and it totally sucked. Was quoted 800-1000 by shops and should’ve saved my sanity and took to a pro.
My takeaways…1. A six sided 14 mm socket on a long 1/2 in drive cordless torque wrench really helps for that top bolt 2. I couldn’t get it out with selanoid still on 3. Be careful sliding the selanoid power clip in, it so awkward that I pushed mine in at an angle and bent the tab inside the selanoid. And always test the starter before installing…would’ve saved me a lot of time.
So glad to be done
thank you. but you dont need disconet the coolant houses is came off front the from .
Okay. Appreciate the input. Will hopefully help others out
Just replaced mine today, worst starter replacement I ever have had the displeasure to do.
I removed the pass. side cat and pipe b/c mine was bad and needed to be replace anyway but I managed to crush the Trans cooler tube when trying to remove the hoses... Got to order a new one for an additional $250.00...
Still beat the crap out of the price the dealer quoted me, but holy S... what a Pain in the A$$
I replaced the starter and now when I hooked up the battery cable the starter to spins without the key on or anything. It doesn't engage the flywheel. It just spins constantly. I know I hooked all the wires up correctly. Is something shorted out inside the solenoid, or the starter? Both parts are brand new.
I saw it done by taking the bedex off while starter was in place?
I took print screens of this video & made a bullet list with links to the pictures... This way you dont have to keep replaying and dont miss any steps.
Once the starter is loose you can go forward instead of going down. Its easier....
Very helpful Thank you for the links to parts and tools, makes the job alot easier. I would add if decided to remove cat. soak bolts and Maybe hav a cpl studs some called turbo studs. I always seem to break atleast one stud. But the video 2 Thumbs up!!!!
Thank you for commenting and very happy to hear the video was helpful. I also appreciate the added tips. Thanks!
Great video. I hate this job.
I cannot get the top 12mm bolt off the starter. I cant get to it behid the coolant lines. I removed the bolt thats holds on the coolant lines bracket but im struggling to get a socket behind the cooland lines. Is there a secret tool or trick?
Fucken thank you. Wth. Awesome thank you for your video
One tip is to back off the passengers side motor mount about 3/4.. then jack up engine under oil pan.. only need to lift about 4 inches. That will give you much more clearance. Got the job down to about 90 minutes..
90 minutes??
It's not easier to pull the manifold, because you have to pull the cat and down pipe. I'm in the rust belt, so the 12mm head nuts needed 7/16 sockets pounded onto them, before they came off, and it took several combinations of socket, extension, swivel, stubby, middy, and deepwell, extractor, and 12mm and 7/16 for the rusty ones. Took me about 3 hrs. Good tip is buy the pigtail, it's _going to break_ !!
BIG tip....only install Toyota starter....autozone,oreilly,advance won't last any time and trust me you don't want to install this starter more than once
Where did you buy the new starter at?
Will this way work on a 4.7 L tundra as well? Is the starter the same for a 4.7 as in the description? Just trying to find away around messing with the exhaust manifold and all of the tubes. Also do you recommend trying to hit the old starter with a pipe first before replacing and cleaning the connections for the battery?
No. The 4.7 L starter is underneath the intake manifold
Which you would not be able to reach with a pipe to hit.
Me and my boss did this it took us 4 hours
Looks like fun 🙄
Haha yea a little bit!
Will this apply for a 2010 4.6 RWD Tundra? Book calls for 9.8 hours
More.
I think that you should be good to trim this small amount of shield off. If Toyota's engineering is so exact, that you could make the starter fail if the wind didn't blow in the right direction. Really?? Trim it you will be fine.
Beyond these pointer I found the video very helpful. Remove the coolant line from the trans cooler. If you don't have the line pinching plyers in the video. I used needle nose vise grips ( the small one ) an to keep the jaws from cutting into the hose. Remove the lock bar in the vise grip to open up the jaws. Then wrap the jaws with electrical tape. This will cover the sharp edges of the jaws so they don't damage the hose.
Beyond that, I think if the starter fails again. I'm gonna scrap the truck. 2 - 6 hours days to do this. Maybe the manifold method might be better.
LOL gasket seal I did the same.