This is Why You NEVER Want to Use Rubberized Undercoatings!
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- In this video we show you a perfect example why you don't want to use rubberized undercoatings like Ziebart!
Instead use a product that breathes like Woolwax or Fluid Film-
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Here is how to apply it-
• Undercoating Your Vehi...
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Instead use a product that breathes like Woolwax or Fluid Film-
amzn.to/2KFBvpV
Here is how to apply it-
czcams.com/video/W06WX6JRGM8/video.html
FordTechMakuloco Any experience with Krown?
You must be spot on because youre about the fourth on that said the thing. One even said he refuses to work on under coated vehicles.
Sad to see a nice looking truck going to scrap already
John Patillo I honestly believe and use the still in certain places beings I drive on a lot of gravel roads, but I would never do a whole truck like that, I seen a video where a guy would put or spray auto trans fluid in bottom of rocker panels and doors but not too sure about that either. Gets sticky and collects more dirt and holds more moisture.
@FordTechMakuloco What about Miracle Paint?
Thank you for taking time to make a video about this scam/misconception. To anyone attempting to prevent rust try Transtar amber rustproofing or similar cavity wax sprayed with a wand in every hole, cavity, access plug, pinch weld, frame rail etc. you can find as soon as you leave the dealership lot. Then use a carwash that has high pressure undercarriage sprayer every couple of months.You'll never have a rust issue. If you must use a coating after surface rust has occurred then knock loose stuff away with wire brush. Spray household degreaser. Then pressure wash with dawn dish soap, rinse and let completely dry. Then apply por-15 with squirt bottle and brush to all areas where rust presents itself inside and out. I've had excellent success with these methods on numerous vehicles. Also the most common problem I see is dirt and debris in areas like wheelhouse, fenders, behind mud guards and fender liners, rockets, wiper cowls, bumper reinforcements, etc. Dirt holds moisture and creates perfect environment for body rot. Occasionally taking a water hose and/ or compressed air to clean out these areas will help dramatically. Just my $.02 from spending the last 20 years in a body shop.
Nathaniel, thank for this. We live in South West Ontario, Canada right smack in the middle of Great Lakes, High accumulations of Lake Effect Snow from Lake Huron, Georgian Bay, Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, we also get Lake Effect snow from the South West Lake Michigan and Lake Superior. Our Snow fall accumulation is heavy, our municipalities cover the roads 1000's of tons of corrosive salt and chemicals. It almost a crime to purchase a new vehicle, drive in the winter and drive it in these conditions. Thank you for your post, very comprehensive and makes sense. We have learned and agree you have a methodology that works very successfully to save and prevent body and frame rot. Thank You!
Por-15 is meant to erode with UV. Not sure if this is a good option long term just like the video said. New yes but with time... big ? marks.
So in your experience using wax or cosmoline that sets hard (semi hard) isn’t as bad as the rubber in this vid ?
I’ve heard people say that because it sets, it behaves the same as the undercoating in this vid.
Eg rust and moisture gets underneath it and creeps underneath it making things worse.
I have zero experience with using either type of product, so it’s good hearing from someone that does have that knowledge
There are a couple different products from Por 15. Its prep intensive. i have seen vids where rust comes through the por 15 Barrier . its seems to be a very tough paint essentially. So far in my quest for a rust proofing in the rust belt. it appears surface shield is a winner applying every two or three years. or a acid based wash that creates a bonded shield like rust-oleum rust reformer. read about a test from Louisiana metal restoration specialists that had that RRR product be a winner.
So sad bc this guy thought he was actually protecting his vehicle all these years meanwhile it actually destroyed it
2472 times he parked farther away so some kid wouldnt dent up his truck.... didnt matter. So sad.
Thomas Steele you can park as far away from everyone every time, with no vehicles within 10 spaces of you and someone will park right next to you.
@@akbychoice Its amazing, it happens to me all the time. I park way out where no cars are and sure enough, I come out and someone is parked right next to me. Drives me bananas.
It's not just this guy all kinds of people have had this done to their cars for many years and they're still doing it still doing it all over the place "1puglife" from Ontario Canada does this for a living in his driveway he has a CZcams channel he doesn't know what he's doing and neither do the people who are having this put on their cars
He can always get a new frame so it doesn't matter. It's not like new frames are that expensive.
I go to school up north and every year when I am home for the summer, I wire brush all of the rust from the frame, and then spray 2 coats of Rust-Oleum "Rust Reformer" paint and then add 3-4 layers of the Krylon rust protector paint. It works exceptionally well and will make your truck look brand new (or at least the frame). Haven't had any rust problems since except for minor surface rust which I just sand off and coat again.
It's probably because every year you sanded de rust before applying the coating
@@amneziaxeaster-gaming382 de rust how? Sandblast? I have this rubberized crap on mine. I figure just knock off the loose and do this or maybe ospho and coat?
If you have to redo it every year, it doesnt work well at all.
@@NjoyMoneySadly, he doesn't realize this.
@@myrongaines5542 fresh and fit 😎
I have been a autobody technician for 38 years and I can tell you that vehicle will rust down regardless ,weather you use undercoat or not. Its the poor quality of the steel that is used by the manufacturer and lack of corrosion protection at the factory. If they last forever, you dont have to buy a new one. On the other hand, you are correct about the undercoat trapping moisture and accelerating the rusting process.
Have you ever tried the motor oil coating? Motor oil contains a lot of corrosion inhibitors that are meant to protect the inside of the engine, but also protect the car body and frame.
f150's 2010-2014 area = as I dived into the issues; most of it was bad engineering and cheaping out.
1. bed sides trap salt/mud/oil inside the foam panel bond crap; can you say paint bubbles
2. Door sills that sit on top of frame rail fill with mud/salt/etc... If you pull off the front mud flap; take a look at what is stuffed in there. Was shocked.
Why most of the f150s have rust on bed sides and underneath doors / top of frame. It is actually rusting from inside out.
@@Aerogrow do you think Ford improved this on the new models ?
@@Twolves2005 2016+ fairly sure they switched to aluminum.
I'd probably still check those areas are not full of road gunk.
buy a Toyota there's a good reason there harder to find used. they do a better job at rust proofing. I got to wonder why the auto makers don't offer a factory rust proofing package/option for the rust belt and Canada for those of us that want to hang onto our $ 60,000 truck. ??? Had a 2007 jeep wrangler eaten by rust up here in north Jersey where brine and salt are used heavily.
I just wanna hear what the customer said when you told him
Why so you can enjoy someone else’s misery?
Customer states? Ha ha.
Damn you gotta be sad to have bliss in other's misfortune
@@chrisstromberg6527 What makes you think the truck owner would care? He didn't care about the fender rusting through. Clearly, he neglects the truck, and that's what happens. I'm not laughing at the guy, but I'm not crying for him either.
Customer just said OMFG
They need to start making public service announcements from Brian's videos. I mean he is soo good at being a preventive maintenance technician. I am so happy that he is a Ford tech and makes these videos.
It's like putting a foot with a wet sock inside a rubber boot. Rots from the inside out..lol.
That's a good analogy.
Yes rotten and stinking ! 😂
It actually probably works if you prep the area you spray first so it sticks. Applying it to rusty or dusty/dirty spots is probably why it failed. Most or many cars already have rubberized coating on the bottom.
But what if done before the sock gets wet?
@@Mishakol1290 And yes, at my dealership we degrease the bottom, dry it off and let it sit, then spray the frame.
I have a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and have been using fluid film every other year and it still looks like new under there
Ziebart is the true definition of false economy.
Anecdotally, these coatings are OK when applied at the factory before any moisture can get trapped between the coating and the frame. I have a (southern) 1985 300ZX with the original rubbery undercoating on the frame rails and floor pan and it's held up fine by itself over the years. Still, I wouldn't put rubber underseal on a car that has any rust or moisture whatsoever already on it.
factory still will rust. Cadillac use to have this as an option and they recalled it.
"There's a sucker born every minute."
-P.T. Barnum
-Ziebart
And we're gonna take them for everything they got.
Barnum never really said that. A competitor actually said that about Barnum
Not having to undercoat my rides every year is one reason I'm glad I live in the south. Where I live (El Paso, Tx) gets so little snow that when it does, it's either all gone by the end of the day or the city throws dirt on the roads before it does snow to help with it melting and traction. Also, we don't have to switch from summer tires to winter tires. We use all season tires year round. All my cars all over 10 years old have less rust on them than most 3 year old northern cars.
Northeast is the worst for rust. Other places have winter weather but the northeast uses the most ice melt than anywhere else. Look at Oregon and Washington cars. They get inclament weather all winter long but the local roads don't use salt as much. There cars are in better condition than Cali cars because they don't get beaten up by the sun. Northeast is too congested and people don't know how to drive so the government is forced to use tons of salt every wimter
I don’t think I would put that on my lift . Lol.
The things I do for my fans!
There is plenty of sidewall since it's fully boxed.
@@billgateskilledmyuncle23 Yes exactly. And if it wasn't boxed in the first place, it wouldn't have rusted there.
@@UberLummox not exactly, they put a bunch of drain holes in those frames, the rubber undercoating clogged them.
@@UberLummox my 98 sidekick has a frame more solid than that with similar mileage and that thing has been submerged in mud more times than I can count, fully boxed. Factory protection, I never bothered with anything since the mud scrapes it off quick. I'm in canada so plenty of salt
Dodge in 1970's wanted to give it's D200 trucks a long service life. They used galvanized steel. I still have original paint on undercarriage. It's galvanized steel from factory.
Wow! I bought a used 2007 Ford Edge with a very rusty bottom. I crawled beneath and wire brush, scrubbed out much of the loose rust. Then sprayed the bottom of the vehicle using Rustoleum Undercoating. I’m obviously gonna need to monitor the condition after every winter season. I love this vehicle, and I hope I won’t need to junk it too soon. This situation is freaking scary!
You want have this issue unless you live in the rust belt. I have a undercoated truck that’s 16 years old and the frame is like new. These rust belt states there just isn’t anything that’s going to save it from rusting. It’s eats everything even this rubber coating.
I actually use something similar but homemade. I take a tube of red and tacky grease, put it in a pot with half a wax toilet ring, melt and mix it together and paint it on inside of panels. Lasts for years and doesn't dry up. This is after I flush out inside of panels of all the dirt mud and crap in them. No more rotted out wheel wells and cab corners! Fluid film works great for hard to reach areas. The trick is don't use anything that dries and hardens like paint, undercoating included.
The perfect opportunity to tell people to hose out their frame and all after every winter woulda been this video.
Good advice about undercoating for sure.
UberLummox I hose mine off every Saturday lol
Eric O. had a great video on these types of undercoating, too. I've never had a frame rust away (I'm in Iowa) and the only thing I've ever applied is a generous dose of water at a car wash, especially during winter months.
For sure that's the best way spray it off after every snowstorm and spend more time under than on top.. I'm working on a Nissan right now it's pretty bad way way worse than this truck that's for sure check it out if you want
Good way to activate the salt in there hiding in the crevices .
I can see a used car salesman still making 8 grand off of this lol
Not quite that much.
Maybe in another state in t l at state were is at has to pass the safety inspection that is safe tu o be on the road
Unknown User yeah will just spray it again and get 11 grand for it
Then law suits will occur.
@@mopar21 actually yes
PB blaster has a new one out called Surface Shield which is much like fluid film. That’s the route I’m taking on my 2021 GMC Sierra.
My dad just perfected his bees wax spray coating technique. Cheap and pretty durable. Seems to wick well into seems. Plus you can remove it fairly easy and apply again if you need to work on frame brackets.
Come to pa vehicles are rusted after first winter
Oh my god. I was literally going to apply this to my 4Runner yesterday. Thanks for the video! Good advice.
Good thing I watched this before buying those coating! Thank you!!!
I feel bad for the owner. They thought they were doing a good thing! Thanks for the warnings!
the law of unintended consequences
@@DJGeorgeDisco So true! I have seen a few videos NOT suggesting rubberized under coatings! It makes sense now that I have heard the logic.
The rot right through the frame rails is unbelievable.Thank you for posting this video.
I have fluid film on my 06 Chevy. Practically ZERO rust.
My dad used Ziebart on both our cars back in 1971. That was in Ontario, and rust protection was relatively new. Smelled like hot roofing tar, and had the same thing as what happened to this fellow’s F150. I now use either Rust Check or Krown. Anything that creeps and penetrates. Drilling holes in the doors and rockers is a small price compared to the scourge of rust holes. Even used motor oil sprayed everywhere does wonders, but is of course darker staining on driveways.
Ziebart tidybart undercoating rulz!! It covers up all the bad! I love rust!
I had a Ford salesman tell me for years he recommended this type of undercoat now he doesn't because he saw too many tradeins like this. I take that as an honest salesman, at least as honest as a salesman can be!
I've always used rustoleum black spray paint to undercoat my trucks instead of their undercoating, works good for me
This just shows me improper installation. I use to work in a shop the only man allowed to do this was him and myself. We had to inspect, then rust remediation, aka wire or sand blast removal then Prime with etching primer then cure fully. Paint cure fully then rust proof coatings. When the new box frames came out we would not coat them because of the area we could not visually inspect.
i recommend using undercoating but you have to do in in the proper order. 1) clean/cut away rust 2) spray with protective paint to seal the bear metal 3) then apply the undercoating over the top of the sealed metal.
The money he spent going to Ziebart for the last 10 years if saved up could of went on the down payment on a new Truck!!!
Never get a down payment.
@@vapecatt oh so youre one of those 0 down broke fools
@@fauxbro1983 pay for it outright
@@JingleBop dont you think if people could outright buy it they would? No one wants car payments.
@@foxtride7890 That's why I stick to old cars.
here in europe we have a bitumen based undercoating called tectyl and its stays soft and waxy, but i am not really a fan of it anymore because its stays wet and black an dirty.
I liked your previous video. I'm a firm believer in Fluid Film. I applied to my 2017 SD twice a year. My truck sits a lot. Not one spec of rust. I spray everything. The usual oxidation on trans and transfer case are not present. The rusty out of box Rancho shocks are like new. I would suggest people drive down a dirt road after applying fluid film. The dust sticks to make it tougher to wash off. 👍
same here....got a 2001 ram that i plow with and its sits rest of the year....guy i bought it from fluid filmed each year and i continued ..just surface rust on frame.. the fenders is another story though probably gonna need to replace in spring..inspection let me slide this year....
That’s too bad, that’s a nice looking truck. I would not junk it, I would cut out the bad metal and reinforce the frame better than it was when it was new. I’ve fixed way worse than this, I live in the rust belt.
I remember in the 80's when that rubber undercoating crap became all the rage.
Lets take a moment to remember all the glorious cars that would still be around if not for cancer covered by rubber
whats a good coating?
@@TheGhjgjgjgjgjg whats a good coating?
@@morphius747 Fluid film or Krown.Anything that maintains an oily consistency is what you want
@@TheGhjgjgjgjgjg krown is utter garbage....basically everywhere you spray it, it becomes really dirty and sticky. working on your car becomes hell. Waxes are much better
Live on a gravel road in Minnesota. Own a 2010 f-150 supercrew with 217,000 miles. Never undercoated the truck and frame is in very good shape. Minor surface rust you would completely expect to find by now. What I can’t stand is how my cab corners on the body of the truck rusted all the way through within 3 1/2 years of purchase. Never tampered with them in any way even though I wish I would have. I suppose if I could have a do-over I would drill a hole in the very bottom of the cab corners so crap could drain cuz ford obviously designed it so crap could work it’s way in there and rot it out from the inside. I see rust on every dang f-150 cab corner it seems but for some reason my particular truck had it REALLY BAD. I can fit both my hands up either cab corner at this point and the rust extends beyond the trim line on the body of the truck where ford puts their 2-tone. I can’t be that mad cuz my truck is plenty old by now but just remember how earlier I said it only took 3 1/2 years for me to be able to stick a finger through my cab! I was furious back then.
Plot twist, he actually parks it in the ocean every night 🤣
This is lies I have painted my vehicles with this stuff and never had rust just comes off after a couple of years
@@cartermc107 texas dry humid weather no rain or snow nothing just hot and humid
@@carlitosbrillante3329 he might live up north. It does crack up here. Salt eats it away. But my brother and I bought the same truck same time in same shape. And the under coating added about 2-3 years of life.
I think the best method is to get it done when brand new and then no more undercoating after that. This issue is caused by putting more on over exiting rust. Same is in South Main's video...it was undercoated after it was years-old and already rusty. It's a recipe for bad rust. Also, when done every year, it will crack and those cracks trap moisture and cause new rust. Do it once when new and then only use something like Fluidfilm etc after that...especially in the wheel wells, in rocker panels, and doors. My 2004 F-150 was Zirbarted days after I bought it and then I've just been using FluidFilm from a can the last few years. NO rust issues...and I live in the rust belt.
Do you just spray the fluid film over the rubber undercoating ? The dealer of course set me up with this and now I'm regretting big time where I might just trade my vehicle in
I think you might be right. I just took delivery of an f150 and want to get valugard coating done at linex - 1 and done application (lifetime warranty no reapplications). However, I'm concerned about the reputation of the coatings, should I decide to sell at some point, due to the affects of people who use it to cover up rust or have it applied to used vehicles.
@@Twolves2005 - I think if you get it done the way you mentioned, you’ll be fine. You’ll have a record showing it was done when it was new and will also have a lifetime warranty to pass to any future owners.
Greets from Finland. I totally agree on this. Here we have also quite heavy salt usage on winters and I've seen dozens of cars that have been destroyed pretty much solely because hardened corrosion inhibitors just like this car. Best coatings seem to be ones that remain almost fluid or wax like. Anyway stiff and hardening coatings always seem to have results like this. Sure they look really nice initially, but that's it and it always seems to be the case that damages are seen too late.
Do you have Dinitrol, SUVO and PAWA in your area ?
Any experience with these ?
I came up with a "fix' for rotted frames, or frames close to rusting out. I had an old 50's car. Frame had some issues. I plugged ALL the holes in the boxed sections. Bought the strongest apoxy I could find. I settled on a marine apoxy. drove some re-bar into the hollow areas, then filled the entire frame with the apoxy ! lol. It was a farmers fix, took over 4 gallons, but the frame is as solid as a rock ! I ground off the areas that dripped through and put a coat of rust eliminator over the frame. The frame is still solid after many years...so I didn't have to junk it. There are ways to save a good running vehicle, if you don't care about value, or looks, or restoration. Save those junks ! Drive them into the ground ! (before I settled on apoxy, I was going to try high strength concrete !) haha...peace
What kind of car was it? Was the re-bar steel or fiberglass? Did you use a pump to get the epoxy into the frame?
Cosmoline Black is the best thing I’ve found for undercoating.
Seems like a welder could repair that framerail by reinforcing it with some new steel. It's bad - but a 2005 would be really bad even with no coating trapping the water - depending on where it was driven. The most amazing thing is the cab corners and rocker panels aren't rusted out. You see those rusting out on F-150s 10 years newer.
I'd imagine part of the problem would be that the shop washes the underside (or are supposed to at least) then don't allow ample time for everything to dry before applying the undercoating
No , it's just a bad process and product from start to finish .
you also have to consider how the rubberized coating acts with road salt depending on where you live will depend on the results you get I have seen road salt turn rubberized coating into rubberized acid it speeds up corrosion and eats the heck out of a car lol
My brother and I both had 2007 rangers. Mine was under coated from day one. We drive same roads daily through Northern Vt winters. And my frame is in munch better shape. His is rotted out and needs to be replaced. While mine has one spot that is repairable and will pass inspection again. But have seen times where if done wrong will cause worse scenarios
Fluid film it every year is the way to go.
Use Krown in Canada, real protection and lubes everything
@@triedandtrue1820 FF is used by canadian military. good enough for me
Never heard of that but I already undercoated vehicles my self with that rubber undercoating. Can I use this fluid film over that rubber crap or No?
Detroit Lions No! You need to scrape off the rubber coating, every square inch of it. Your salted road winters and DIY rubber coating = very short frame life
Fluid Film and Corrosion Free are definitely the best. My 15 year old car has been winter driven since new and sprayed with that stuff every year. Looks almost new underneath. Where I live, I've seen 10 year old cars in the junkyard due to rust
This guy knows his stuff, wish I lived near him because our 2004 Explorer with 213k will need a new 5r55w tranny soon and apparently you can't use a different tranny even the same 5r55 out of a Mustang, but I'd trust this guy to rebuild or fix it. It still works, but when does it go? Anytime between now and who knows. Odd because when I manual shift the auto trans, I don't get hard shifts, but alas I don't live nearby, it's a shame because we love this car, engine runs great, starts right up and frankly we are not rich, not worth taking a chance with an inferior mechanic, with, him I feel I'm not taking a chance, he would fix it right. Get video's, if you haven't subscribed you should.
P.S My dad always said undercoating was a scam, but that was back in the day, didn't now they even ran this scam anymore, thought everyone was hip to it.
That’s sad. I bet the owner is pissed
i use por15 on all my vehicles and i absolutely love it.
Sooooooo glad I live in the south. Down here that stuff would melt off in the summers lol.
Thanks for posting this...I would have fell for the come-on from the company. Great public service announcement. 👍
Took the words right out of my mouth
Oh stop it! I don't want to hear about your rust free vehicles down there right now!! lol
@@FordTechMakuloco lmao
@@FordTechMakuloco better you guys up north than us here in the south ... we dont need to worry about salt rusting our trucks out ... rarely we get snow ... 02 f250 crew cab 8'bed with 365k ... NO RUST
I used this kind of stuff all the time in the 90"s when I was selling a car. I thought it was great made under the car look new for the sale. I had no idea this was going to be the end result. I would like to say sorry to all those who bought a car from me back in the day.
"Yeah, but I'm sayin', that TruCoat, you don't get it and you get oxidization problems."
Go to carwash, soap undercarriage with pressure washer and wash with pressure washer at least once a week in winter and you won't need anything else.
@Joe Black That is why cars in Alaska or the NWT or up in Northern Scandinavia (above the arctic circle) are pretty clean. To cold to rust and in some cases they go easy on the road salt up there because of sparse populations and because its to cold for it to be effective.
@@zoidberg444 Cars don't really rust in Interior Alaska - or at least they didn't until the roads started getting way more caustic deicer sprayed on them (they only sanded until the last decade or so).. South central and all of coastal Alaska is a horrible environment for vehicles due to the humidity, salt air, as well as the road deicer used here. Then add the dirt from the gravel roads into the mix to trap this chemical concoction underneath your vehicle.
Not recommended to use soap products underneath a vehicle. It washes away the important oils and grease from components, leaving them fresh exposed for new salt incursion.
Water only is a better option
@Joe Black but in places like where Brian lives where they get lots of snow but the temperature is always fluctuating above and below freezing the salt from the roads really eats away at the vehicle that much faster. So you really have to keep your vehicle clean or it will rust quickly.
I'm so glad that I saw this video. I went to Ziebart for the first time in May 2020 for a Rhino Liner. They sprayed it on and I only had one minor issue with it that they quickly repaired perfectly. I declined the undercoating from them multiple times. They really try hard to push the undercoating and I think I told them "No" at least 15 times during my 2 visits. They said they will no longer honor the warranty on the Rhino Liner if I refused to have the undercoating. I did not get the undercoating and I'm so happy I didn't.
Thanks for this info. So, (and I'm assuming this) rubberized undercoatings and bed liners aren't virtually the same thing? I bought a can of rustoleum undercoating and was horrified at how quickly it scuffed off shortly after painting. And i prepped really well. However, i previously had great results with Duplicolor Bed Liner Spray. The store was out of bed liner so i picked up the undercoating thinking it would be the same. That's a big negative as far as i can tell.
OK, I've answered my own question. I just easily removed the undercoating, after 3 days no less, and i repainted the area with the bedliner spray, which is also rustoleum brand. No comparison whatsoever. The bedliner is 1000 times more durable
I went to Ziebart and asked for JUST their Rust Converter treatment. I wanted to see if it did anything. It was just tannic acid and nope - did next to nothing. They got mad when I said I didn't want the undercoating. hahahhaa. I used phosphoric acid - and RP-342. I even got a repair kit welded on - and used other wax spray for undercoating. I even used epoxy appliance paint and chassis saver. I just applied a DIY undercoating of Petrolatum wax from toilet wax rings - 3 lbs - and 4 lbs of pure gum turpentine (it leaves a rosin undercoating)....
I find you don't need to undercoat Ford frames. You just have to wash them with water and they last forever. The coating they put on from the factory normally holds up really well. The rockers and cab corners are the problem area...
Don't forget to put your hose inside the holes in the chassis and watch the mud water flow out till clear.
Looks like it’s been applied on dirty and rusty elements already
I went and had an estimate done for this and talked with them they prep and prime the surfaces before applying so this video looks like it was applied to a vehicle already with tons of rust.
It traps moisture and rots from the inside out
The application was wrong,,not the paint.
Too bad he didn't have the massive oil leak sooner. Poor man's undercoating.
hot oil under spaying is the best. Coming from a rust belt VT
Mr Libowski I’m still laughing but you’re right honest my grandpa used to save his used motor oil and spray it on everything from the frame of his truck to all the fences that were wood in the yard
Mr Libowski 😂 😂 😂
Probably bought that truck and couple more years.
@@A-mechanics-review-4U And that protects stuff???
I am about to buy a new Honda CRV and the dealer kept on pushing towards a undercoating of rust protection without elaborating on what material he wound use.. After some research I found that it would be rubberized undercoating. Watching this video opened my eyes.
Wow, I'm really glad I watched this video because I'm not very knowledgeable on this and this is a little counterintuitive to me. I never would have guessed that undercoat could actually _cause_ this. But now that I've seen it explained it honestly makes perfect sense. I guess the decision is made for me then. Soft undercoat it is lol. My truck is 15 years old. It's real clean but I'm sure it's not clean enough to apply a hard undercoat. I know for a fact that it'll scale up in places because it's not possible to get it totally clean.
Living in the salt belt myself, its usually 10-12 years the rust will be so bad it wouldnt pass most state safety inspections. Oil/lanolin coatings are a blessing in the north.
This is why you prepare the metal and rustproof it before sealing it loll
I worked for a new car dealership way back in 1984-1985. They would get customers to pay an extra 200-500 for a 'protection package'. You see what the undercoating does in this video. The paint protection was just wax from WalMart. Interior protection was regular Scotchguard. I was making $3.35 an hour. So it cost the dealership about $25 in parts and labor.
They’re still doing that.
I had a car that was Ziebarted and same thing, everything the Ziebart touched rusted out very fast, terrible stuff!
A lot depends on how you apply the undercoating! If you dont clean out the existing rust on the metal then no coating will ever work and peeling like this will happen. First you need to clean surface of all dirt and grime, then brush off the existing rust so that bare metal is visible, then apply undercoating, or even better first an epoxy primer and then an undercoating. Add wax on top of it so it wont crack in time. If everythings done and applied correctly, it will stick very well and last a long time. I've treated my car 5 years ago that way and the layer still holds strong.
If applied directly to rust anythings pretty much a waste of money
One of the original dealership scams
Kevin Barry ....I remember 20 25 30 years ago when they were warning about the side work system saying that it did just this it was considered a gimmick then.....
Ziebart system....
Lol my mom bought an experimental 09 malibu in 2008 before they were an official model out for public buying and had the dealership do the works on it, when they did the undercoating they sprayed Everything so badly the abs system would not stop locking up so we only had the car less than a few months before the dealer fucked over the first 09 model here. Chevy asked her what she thought of the vehicle shortly after and she told them it was a death trap so they released the 2009 model to the public anyways only 2 weeks after that
Scotty Kilmer did a video stating about the same thing... He is from Buffalo NY (as am I) and I remember Ziebart and that my father refused to have that applied to his vehciles for the same reason. Scotty demonstrated that you just paint the underside with Rustoleom or regular car paint and it does a pretty good job of protecting the metal... I followed that suggestion and it appears to work.
that ziebart stuff should be outlawed....company i worked for about 7 years ago bought 3 new f250 and ziebart all of them..i warned my boss not a good idea but he did not listen...ran into one of the guy i use to work with at home depot few months ago and sure enough all the 3 trucks frames were junk and rusted from inside out...dealer would not even take them in on trade ...
They actually sell frame caps for these trucks. It's a pretty common issue on 05 to 14 Ford frames.
I feel like a bi-monthly application of oil getting sprayed on with a pump sprayer would be best no?
I guess it depends on the oil but motor oils rot rubber from what I've seen plus what a mess to work on.
Best way imo is to convert rust... You go from fe3 (that's the brown rust) to fe4(that's the black, they called it magnatiet I believe and it never rust again)... To protect the magnatiet just paint it... Never ever rust again.... Here In Europe we use fertan but I'm sure you have some rust converter to.... You can also achieve this process by submerging you part under water in a plastic bucket, than put your positive clamp on the part and make an anode on the in side of the bucket (steel)... It will derust and create a layer of magnatiet on the part, the anode will de solve so Don t switch the positive from your battery charger..
I know there is no bucket for a f150 chassis....
Convert it and coat it with lanolin oil or fluid film
Aren't they supposed to scrap all that off before reapplying?
Yes, but it wouldn't matter. It would still cause it to rust out quicker than normal. Fluid film or something similar is what you want.
Just wash your car/ truck after a snow storm to get the salt washed off and you’ll be fine, I just spray that wd40 fluid film rust prevent stuff under the truck and it seems to last more then a year, dirt gets stuck to it but it’s not like rubber , it still can breath
Bees wax boiled linseed oil heat and an old paint sprayer .
Does that really work?
I sprayed my brand new 2020 car with Cosmoline. I live in North Ohio and work in Michigan, I let you know in April how it work.
What happen?
You would be better off with no coating at all.
That is what i was thinking.
if you spray vinegar or baking soda and water , Every Year , on the Salt Deposits and rust residue , including inside frame rails
@@tracycolorado
If they keep putting that coating on it's still going to hold water and salt . Your better off with no coating. I had a 1967 Plymouth fury that was in Texas before I got it . It had rust around the doors but the frame was good just a little surface rust. Nothing like that poor truck.
Yeah. If they put the same amount of salt on the roads in Chicagoland as they do here in England i'd say 15-16 years out of a Ford is fairly average.
@@zoidberg444 That rust is definitely excessive. But I bought a dodge Durango brand new and it got massive rust holes in it within 6 years of age. Even the license plate and lights fell off. We had to screw every back on the several times until we gave up and junked it. No more Chrysler products for me.
My JGC is going to be turning 12 soon and the thing doesn't have a spec of rust on it despite the fact that my roads are covered in salt 6months out of the year. It's not hard to keep the underside pristine if you never let it go bad in the first place; the average person can do it.
Crawl under it once a year, wash it with a degreaser (water&dishsoap), scrape away any rust (shouldn't require more then a steel bristle pad if you've been doing this since day one), spray any exposed metal with some rust-reform paint you get in a can, and then spray a wax/oil coating, again that comes in a can.
It costs about as much as an oil change and takes an hour or two once a year.
I have to retract my comment on your other post, "THIS IS WHY DEALERS NO LONGER PUSH RUSTY JONES OR ZEIBART"...the consumers finally got on!
My Ford dealer sells a Fluid Film type of product. I just do it myself.
FTBY59 Mike D . My Grandfather had Zeibart sprayed on his brand new dream car. This was done per the recommendation of the Olds dealer. His 1973 Olds 88 convertible with a 455 engine rusted out completely. Dealerships are out to sell cars and ruin yours a soon as possible.
It was Poil done wrong by a technician. As someone who does this for a living at Uniglass/ Zeibart. this is painful to watch. You cannot just keep spraying every area year after year. You need the year and mileage to judge the amount or use to apply. It seems like when this Vehicle was done was never underbody powerwashed or cleaned pre-hand and dryer which is a must before coating your car or truck or whatever.
Something tells me it's "really bad".
And not just "really bad," but "really, really bad"
I had a 1984 Datsun pickup and a 1983 model . Both was used in my carpentry firm the 1983 truck was shot after 7 years but the 84 one never had any rust even when I sold it in 2001 . Reason was I put old motor oil in the frame and lightly sprayed oil in the sills and everywhere I thought rust would come . Every MOT they said it had an oil leak ( It never had an oil leak ) cheap and quick to do and saves your truck .
It depends on if you use a real rubberized undercoating that remains flexible years later, and you should always prep the surface with a rust dissolver and then coat the surface with an anti-graffiti paint before applying the correct undercoating. And you never close up the drain holes. But that's also a modern Ford and they rust just like Dodge Durangos.
I've used this stuff last week for my millitary fuel jerrycans. They get a nice undercoat than black paint and as last the rubberized coating. When bumped around it doesn't chip off like paint does. Hopefully it would not end up like this... 😳😬
Remember RUSTY JONES from back in the 80s
When I was a little kid I kept seeing that sticker on my family and family friends cars (which were always rusty) and I thought it was a sticker rusty cars got! haha.
I’ve always used Rust Check. It’s worked fantastic for me, and I didn’t spray it every year.
Accelerated is an UNDERSTATEMENT, that rust was EXPEDITED!!
Or encapsulated the rust
Next Day Air with AM Delivery even!
My Dad bought a Toyota Highlander back in 2012 and the dealer convinced him to apply a rubberized undercoating. He traded it in for an Ram 1500 a couple of years later. Damn, am I glad that he traded it in.
The rocker panels on my 2000 explorer are still brand new. Then again, I live in Florida lol.
You can't paint over rust. Any type of rust. There must be 0 oxidation. Not even the slightest hint of yellow/Orange.. if the the job suddenly looks daunting try to find a 'paint over rust' as a first coat.
Prep the area we'll before applying anything. No discoloration on a brand new cloth after going through it.
I've been protecting my lungs with cigarettes for 2 decades. I'm imagining this vehicle inside of me.
I mean, if you never lit them it would actually work
Looks clean compared to our 2007 Taurus. Rusted all the way through. The floor boards are just the carpeting. Brake lines rusted through, and all rockers are completely gone. Not sure if it was rust proofed when new, but you see it on a lot of Taurus.
The majority of these f150 have frame issues I’d say 1 in 4 we see have bad frames 2004-2009
I'll use rustoleum rust reformer/converter on problem rusty areas and address them accordingly...prep the rusty area then apply and I have no issues!!
That's nasty, I spray my truck every August with New Hampshire Undercoating thats oil. Great product.:)
Every Ford I've owned has extreme rust. Mustangs, F 150 and so on but my wife's Acura has barely any and it's the same age. Frame rails and doors and tailgate areas on the trucks get it the worst. Only thing I found that slows it down is Eastwood's rust encapsulation
I think there should be an asterisks on the title: "Never use rubberized undercoating IF you don't know what you are doing or are going to do it wrong" hahaha
For it to work as intended, yearly you need to remove anything that looks like it could be a problem spot and remove the surrounding rubber coat area down to the metal, clean with degreaser/alcohol, hit with rust converter after drying THEN apply the rubberized coat. This procedure works very well.
As you mentioned, the luminaries this guy brought his car to were just applying the coat over the old one and saying hell to any of the finer details hahahah.
That said, Fluid film/Wax film or NH oil is a much easier way to go and does a solid job keeping the metal environment anaerobic and stopping/slowing already present rust.
He bought it new and they continued to spray every year rubber is a bad idea it conceals and causes bad spots theoretically if there's no corrosion it might help by adding a barrier. BUT doing it hides to much adding risk of when it starts to dry rot hiding spots all the car.
I always figured the frame flexes and causes cracks in the rubber coating. Most frames flex a lot going bumpy stuff.
A good undercover for this task, but quite expensive is: High density polyurethane foam, specially formulated for exteriors, cold and heat, from snow to sand. I guess that covering your truck or car will cost you at least $3000 papers, but they have to clean and eliminate any kind of dirt and rust, previously. However, if you do not have that money or do not want to waste it, a thin layer of epoxy resin, applied with brush one layer, and past it fast, only on those places where the contact with elements is imminent.
Those undercovers do not work, they are cheap and degrade quite fast. Nice video!
Put full coverage on it incase you have an accident in the snow or rain 😉
I sprayed rust fix on first, then a couple layers of black paint/primer. There was only a little surface rust to begin with and most of the factory undercoating was still intact. After doing all of that I finally sprayed the rubberized coating on.
I'm taking a shot every time you say "really really bad" lol
jk, great advice, stick to fluid film!