muito bom, obrigado por ter postado os vídeos com com demostrações especiais sou fã de armas antigas principalmente as que cotam a Historias do oste americanos, eu amo vocês.
Another fix I was taught years ago. use fine diamond file to polish and de burr the hammer edges. These edges pull the cap off and into the action. a simple filing and polishing of the tinny edges on and around the hammer face will solve 90% of your problems.
I actually just did this a couple days ago and tested a couple dozen shots from my Pietta 1860 and had perfect reliability. Most of the caps actually fell out the right side of the cylinder when they reached the priming area. All the edges on the Italian repros are so sharp you could gut a deer with a little determination.
This is what I also was told and have had good results. I *do* find if I fan the gun, I get more jams. I'm going to try this pin modification in one of my loose 51 clones.
Kösönöm! As being new in the BP business, I appreciate both: the structured and excellently made tutorials and the fact, that they are from a Magyar Ur from my home.
Interesting idea. Thanks for sharing your solution. My cheap solution is to use little pieces of vinyl aquarium tubing as a "keeper" around the caps. It helps significantly with this problem as well as reducing the possibility of chain fires from sparks bouncing under the caps. It's cheap and easy. I take the tubing and slice off a small piece. I then insert the caps into the resulting tubing "sleeve". I do this at home and just put the "sleeved" caps back into the tin. Of course, I can't use a capper at the range once the tubing is in place so I have to put the caps on the cylinder by hand and use a wood dowel to push them down firmly. This can be a bit of a pain so it all comes down to what you want to deal with. For me, eliminating chain fires and cap fragments is more valuable than getting to use a capper. And I don't have to modify my gun. So if I want an authentic experience (jams and all) then I can just use un-sleeved caps.
Older caps back in the 1800s functioned much more reliably than caps now. If you look them up, they were nothing close to the toys they make now. They did not shatter and guns did not jam as a result. So, authentic is actually having original style caps on an original gun with original nipples. Modern repro's do not put as much attention to nipples because percussion guns are considered more of a novelty. I have actually modified my gun like this, and believe me, it is easy and reliable.
Brett Brandstatt Brett, I use RWS caps, and sometimes Seiller & Bellot caps. They are both loose on the nipples of the percussion revolvers. The original European caps I had in my hands looked something like the RWS, but as I did not fire them I do not know how they behave.
Are RWS and Seiller & Bellot at least consistent in size? Do they shatter and potentially create a jam by falling into a Colt mechanism like American cap brands such as CCI and Remington? The problem I encounter is usually caps from the same tin may not be consistent enough in size to fit all of the nipples correctly. If they are higher quality than Remington and CCI I will order them.
My 51 colt was the best point shooting revolver I have ever shot. Also, my first fanning experience with other than a cap gun was with a High Standard Double nine about 55 years ago when I was 13. It had a fixed firing pin on the hammer which also locked back and would not fire unless you let go of the trigger and pulled it again. I was going so fast and was so exited that I jammed my palm into the firing pin twice before I realized there was great pain and I was bleeding. I'm glad to see you had better luck. Great video. Randy from New Orleans
Well Done ! And you explained a lot. During the 1920s to the 1950s, some Hollywood actors would raise handguns of all types 90 degrees muzzle upright while firing,as you alluded to the Civil War Cavalry doing so as to allow spent caps to fall free and not jam the cylinder. This was most probably a holdover technique of gun handling taught since the percussion era and continued long after by operators not knowing why they were doing it, only that it was cool and expected. Thanks for the elucidation.
This worked great. I used my "Tuco" 1851 Navy. (Built from three different pistols.) All six chambers go off with out a problem, no cap sucking, no jamming. Great and simple mod. Thanks.
Capandball: That is a practical and great solution. I do truthfully have to say that it is hit or miss as to which replica revolvers have more or lesser problems with caps lodging into the frame and lockwork etc. For instance my Pietta 1860 Army with factory nipples hardly ever has caps fall into the chambers, yet my Uberti 1860 had that very problem, I am now experimenting with Slix Shot nipples to see how they may resolve it. Should they fail then the option you show here is the way to go.
In the 1980s California gunsmith/engraver/cowboy shooter Frank Leaman had a way to avoid cap jamming and it sounds like the same thing. I heard Frank say he put a bar in front of the hammer. I always stupidly pictured it horizontal. But now I know how he did it by watching this. Great video.
Try filling in the slot in the hammer with epoxy and file it smooth. Add (Slix Shot nipples) you can buy them on line. This will take away your jamming problem. I have done this on all my pistols and I'm more then happy with the result. Crossdrawjohn. Arizona. USA
Very well done! I have always groaned on the occasional lock-up of my 1851 Colt Sheriff's model. Once I had to disassemble lower end to get cap remnants out of locked mechanism. I think this will work out just fine!
Years ago, before black power shooting became popular, being a college boy meaning no money, I started target shooting a Navy Arms Remington replica with target sights. A couple of my friends got interested and also bought black powder pistols and we did a ton of shooting. We never had problems with jamming on caps. The caps we used were also from Navy Arms and were thin foil, so thin they disappeared when the cylinder they were on was fired. I supposed somebody got a piece of metal in their eye and out came the lawyers.
Hi; I've watched your Black Powder videos for quite some time now and I must say that they are among the very best there is on CZcams. Many people making videos do so more to hear themselves talk, or to "look good" to their friends. I fin all of your videos to be exceptionally informative, and very truthful in everything you do. Thanks for some very fine videos. There are a lot of new or younger shooters benefiting from your videos and it's great to see that they can get quality information here. Good luck with all of your videos in the future, and whatever elso you plan to do.
Oh that's genius, that's just genius. It's also simple if you think about it. The reason the caps move is because they fire-form to the surface of the hammer, that post just gives them the nudge they need to stay on the nipple.
Well, just saw this. Another solution is to polish the hammer face and round the edges. It's the burring left over from machining that sucs the caps off the cones and drops them into the action.
I just discovered Slik Shot nipples. These are replacement nipples for either Uberti or Pietta revolvers. They are made of stainless steel. They have a slightly larger bore and two vent holes drilled into the side of the nipple that relive the back pressure. I have used them with great success on my Pietta 1858 Remington reproduction. They best thing about them is that you can install them yourself. You don't need a gunsmith to modify the gun.
In regard to Fanning the way they used to do this in the mining towns in the 1850s was where they would draw the revolver sometimes thumb it back with the drawing hand so the first shot was entirely with that hand then they would take the left hand with fingers widespread and fan back: index finger, middle finger, ring finger, Pinky. so that way they would Sweep with the hand a single sweep. there are accounts in which people in mining towns would hear a shooting in which it would be "brrrrrupt" sounding like what modern-day machine gun fire would be. Also with regard to firing six shots out of a six shot revolver... the tenancy when carrying a revolver with the hammer down between two Chambers was for vibration and carry motion to cause the cylinder to turn ever so slightly until the hammer would Come Down --Bam!-- on a live primer. a good solution to this would be to have a gunsmith drill small holes between each chamber and install small pins that would fit on the hammer, so that the hammer would stay steady, and only start to move the cylinder when the hammer is drawn back some. Remington's were made that way. I have two Remington's one uberti,1 pieta-- they have slots cut between the chambers for the hammer to rest in-- but the Colts Hammer is designed differently, so that a pin is the proper solution for that. I keep one of the remingtons loaded the other one the slots don't quite work as they should so I don't quite trust that revolver
The Confederate Colt clones by Rigdon and Ansley used this in-between mod, tho under a hundred were made. A weak mainspring would be dangerous here. The R&A revolvers also had a rear sight in a dovetail on the barrel: an obvious mod for accuracy, tho a locus for weakness if overloaded.
Fascinating solution! I'm curious about the long term reliability and stability of the pin. Track of the Wolf nipples solved the spent cap and blow back issues for me. The gun has become considerably more reliable like they were originally. The factory nipples have a dreadful taper and this is the main cause of cap fragmentation. Pietta nipples seem to be the worst. Very cool video, thanks!
I do hold the barrel up some and tilt the gun to the right when I pull the hammer back on both my 1858's and 1851 Pietta's. I very rarely have a jam and never one so bad I had to take the cylinder out. The range never had an issue as long as it was pointed down range all the time, but It's out in the woods to say the least. But that's a pretty simple and genius solution, you would think Sam Colt would have though of that!
they didn't really have issues with it (it did happen, but it was very rare). Because these were cutting edge weapons, utmost attention was made to quality and finish, in order to ensure almost 100% reliability. The firearms industry at large today doesn't really consider these to be "real" guns, more of "novelties", and it shows by the lack of care taken in finishing the guns and making the components for loading them. Instead of looking at what Colt and others did to ensure reliability and ease of using bullets, everyone today tries to reinvent the wheel and do things like: installing pins next to the cones to keep the cap in place, drilling holes in sides of the cones, doubling up the mainsprings (instead of having a proper one), gluing the safety notch in the hammer face shut, and just insisting that "no one used bullets" (because the frames on repros are not relieved enough to allow bullets to be loaded most of the time) lol. Would you buy a new Glock, Sig-Sauer, or S&W if they jammed all the time and had real issues? Certainly not, and neither would the people that lived in the 19th century (it's not like they didn't already have pistols, these were just repeaters (the key here is repeating, if they don't do that, they aren't much use)).
Very interesting idea. Once I owned a nice looking replica of Colt 1860 and I faced the same problem. A jam after every second shot. Well, you have a solution. Very good and simple. But that is no historical solution. OK. Is it possible that the armies in that time used a revolver so prone to jam? Would I bet my life on such a revolver? I simply cannot imagine it, I would not. So were the original revolvers less jamming? If yes, why? Better polishing? Anything else?
That does not keep the busted cap from going all the way around and jamming on the cylinder action, in fact, in another video of this kind, the gun jams despite having the modification sugested here. The problem is in the nipples, the cap should bust only on the bottom and remind "saddled" on the nipple ready to fall as the cylinder turns. This is hard to get right, depends on the design of the nipple and the cap one uses, some people get good results with SliX Shot nipples. Also, the hammer spring is at play and the state of the hammer face...
hello, where did u get the modified cylinder to produce the non jamming of the pistol ? could u show an up close video of the modification please ? thanks.
I've been cocking my Colts whilst pointing skyward for so long that I do it with centerfire revolvers too. I still prefer a Colt to a Remington. A Colt is, to me at least, much easier to maintain and clean. I like the grip and balance better as well.
I'm not talking about a SAA. I'm talking black powder, no top strap type Colt designs. They are a lot easier to clean. You can just dump the cylinder and barrel assembly in a sink full of hot soap and water. It's not hard to disassemble a Remington, it's just harder to get the bp fouling out of all the nooks and crannies.
slowpokebr549 Right, the 1858 New Army black powder Remington is like the SAA. Super easy to switch cylinders. I will agree though, the open top Colt is probably VERY nice to clean the barrel out. I didn't think of that.
Thanks for the tip! Just did that on my 1851 pietta cal.36 shortened (by myself) barrel. The problem is it's a brass frame so no possibility to solder the pin onto the frame. My temporary solution: cyanoacrylate glue... Other than that, finally my 1075+ caps start as well as my remington n°10! My revolver now looks totally rubbish (soldered the lever, removed the black mottle...) but works perfectly fine, even in fanning mode 👍
Hi - great video, I had the same problem with cap jams. Another good solution I found to work which is easier to do is to install slix shot nipples. Duelist 1954 explains in this video on you tube : Equipping 1851 Navy replicas with Slix Shot nipples
I agree with Bobby. All BP arms must be cleaned afetr shooting. This is part of the hobby, and fun as well. I do not disassemble the trigger system after each shooting. I clean the cylinder and bore with water, and I spray oil into the action thru all holes.
***** Yeah, it was the trigger mechanism I was talking about, I know you have to clean the barrel and cylinder right away, but to be honest I do that with any firearm, even guns that fire modern ammo. Do you disassemble the trigger mechanism at all ?? and if so how often ??
:) We have a small NSSA team. As we are all Hungarian we are paying tribute to the 39th NY Vol Inf, the "Garibaldi Guard". This regiment was organized and led by many Hungarian officers, with quite a lot Hungarian soldiers. However on the Southern side we know of not more than 10-15 soldiers.
do you really have to go to a gunsmith? I'm pretty handy with tools and that looks like a very simple mod. You just have to have steady hands and good eyes. Just drill a hole and insert a pin of the same size, maybe with some glue if its loose.
If you cant afford slix-shot nipples, try filing a (only one) very super small notch into each nipple while still on the cylinder, so that just a little pressure hit the cap straight upwards, that should stop the caps from getting blown backwards into the hammer by the pressure and allow just a tiny bit of pressure to push the top side of the cap, tightening it and keeping it in place on the nipple. Also try deburring the hammer safety notch, the notches on the repro's are heavily burred from machining, and will likely slice into the caps and pull them back towards the hammer, into the action, and voila you can't work the action any longer, not even enough to pull all the caps out of the nipples = to get it working again you have to take apart a gun that still has live ammunition in it!!
An easy way is to just fill the groove in the hammer with J.b weld. You won't be able to use the safety pins on the cylinder but just load 5 instead of six!
Great video. I have several friends with pinned Colts and they all work very reliably.
muito bom, obrigado por ter postado os vídeos com com demostrações especiais sou fã de armas antigas principalmente as que cotam a Historias do oste americanos, eu amo vocês.
Awesome! Cap and Ball is the best black powder shooting channel on CZcams!
Thank you sir! :) But it is not true! :)
+capandball Yes it is. You have done fantastic work!
Another fix I was taught years ago. use fine diamond file to polish and de burr the hammer edges. These edges pull the cap off and into the action. a simple filing and polishing of the tinny edges on and around the hammer face will solve 90% of your problems.
I actually just did this a couple days ago and tested a couple dozen shots from my Pietta 1860 and had perfect reliability. Most of the caps actually fell out the right side of the cylinder when they reached the priming area. All the edges on the Italian repros are so sharp you could gut a deer with a little determination.
@@curtharm3990 yes, and Hollywood showed it in early westerns, they cocked the revolver with a side-flicking action to toss the spent cap
This is what I also was told and have had good results. I *do* find if I fan the gun, I get more jams. I'm going to try this pin modification in one of my loose 51 clones.
my 1860 Army (Pietta) now has96 rounds through it without a cap jam since I had the cap guard/rake installed.
Good video, good idea
Thanks
Kösönöm! As being new in the BP business, I appreciate both: the structured and excellently made tutorials and the fact, that they are from a Magyar Ur from my home.
Interesting idea. Thanks for sharing your solution. My cheap solution is to use little pieces of vinyl aquarium tubing as a "keeper" around the caps. It helps significantly with this problem as well as reducing the possibility of chain fires from sparks bouncing under the caps. It's cheap and easy. I take the tubing and slice off a small piece. I then insert the caps into the resulting tubing "sleeve". I do this at home and just put the "sleeved" caps back into the tin. Of course, I can't use a capper at the range once the tubing is in place so I have to put the caps on the cylinder by hand and use a wood dowel to push them down firmly. This can be a bit of a pain so it all comes down to what you want to deal with. For me, eliminating chain fires and cap fragments is more valuable than getting to use a capper. And I don't have to modify my gun. So if I want an authentic experience (jams and all) then I can just use un-sleeved caps.
Thanks for the idea. I will try this as well!
Older caps back in the 1800s functioned much more reliably than caps now. If you look them up, they were nothing close to the toys they make now. They did not shatter and guns did not jam as a result. So, authentic is actually having original style caps on an original gun with original nipples. Modern repro's do not put as much attention to nipples because percussion guns are considered more of a novelty. I have actually modified my gun like this, and believe me, it is easy and reliable.
***** Can you point me to a quality cap maker, if any? I do get tired of caps not fitting. Thank you.
Brett Brandstatt
Brett, I use RWS caps, and sometimes Seiller & Bellot caps. They are both loose on the nipples of the percussion revolvers. The original European caps I had in my hands looked something like the RWS, but as I did not fire them I do not know how they behave.
Are RWS and Seiller & Bellot at least consistent in size? Do they shatter and potentially create a jam by falling into a Colt mechanism like American cap brands such as CCI and Remington? The problem I encounter is usually caps from the same tin may not be consistent enough in size to fit all of the nipples correctly. If they are higher quality than Remington and CCI I will order them.
My 51 colt was the best point shooting revolver I have ever shot. Also, my first fanning experience with other than a cap gun was with a High Standard Double nine about 55 years ago when I was 13. It had a fixed firing pin on the hammer which also locked back and would not fire unless you let go of the trigger and pulled it again. I was going so fast and was so exited that I jammed my palm into the firing pin twice before I realized there was great pain and I was bleeding. I'm glad to see you had better luck. Great video. Randy from New Orleans
I started at TWELVE in 77 when I built My FIRST!
Well Done ! And you explained a lot. During the 1920s to the 1950s, some Hollywood actors would raise handguns of all types 90 degrees muzzle upright while firing,as you alluded to the Civil War Cavalry doing so as to allow spent caps to fall free and not jam the cylinder. This was most probably a holdover technique of gun handling taught since the percussion era and continued long after by operators not knowing why they were doing it, only that it was cool and expected. Thanks for the elucidation.
my pair of Pietta 1860 Army fitted like this have over 125 rounds between them with no cap jams. This fix works
I am up to a total of about 1000 rounds total on my pair of 1860's and no cap jam yet. The rake and Slixshot nipples just works wondrs.
Brilliant, reading about it and then seeing the results is worth a million. I am on the way to the basement to get it done. Thanks.
This worked great. I used my "Tuco" 1851 Navy. (Built from three different pistols.) All six chambers go off with out a problem, no cap sucking, no jamming. Great and simple mod. Thanks.
Capandball:
That is a practical and great solution. I do truthfully have to say that it is hit or miss as to which replica revolvers have more or lesser problems with caps lodging into the frame and lockwork etc. For instance my Pietta 1860 Army with factory nipples hardly ever has caps fall into the chambers, yet my Uberti 1860 had that very problem, I am now experimenting with Slix Shot nipples to see how they may resolve it. Should they fail then the option you show here is the way to go.
Slix Shot and a cap guard makes a very reliable gun
In the 1980s California gunsmith/engraver/cowboy shooter Frank Leaman had a way to avoid cap jamming and it sounds like the same thing. I heard Frank say he put a bar in front of the hammer. I always stupidly pictured it horizontal. But now I know how he did it by watching this. Great video.
the engraved uberti 1851 is a beautiful gun. the finish coloring looks very 19th century
Try filling in the slot in the hammer with epoxy and file it smooth. Add (Slix Shot nipples) you can buy them on line. This will take away your jamming problem. I have done this on all my pistols and I'm more then happy with the result.
Crossdrawjohn. Arizona. USA
Been down the shed this afternoon and put a pin in myself, very easy to do and it works!! thankyou.
Easy and simple. Nice video sir.
Very well done! I have always groaned on the occasional lock-up of my 1851 Colt Sheriff's model. Once I had to disassemble lower end to get cap remnants out of locked mechanism. I think this will work out just fine!
Great vid! I'm ALWAYS having trouble with my Walker jamming with shrapnel from the caps... Thanks for the tip!
thank you. excellent video. if this is not the best bp channel on CZcams, it's a very close second. thanks again & keep them coming.
I agree with another commentator, Your channel is the best cap n ball on Utube!
Love your videos man thanks
Wonderful video, as always.
I have those pins on all 3 of my open tops.
I have herd them referred to as "cap rakes"
Thank's for sharing info! I have a pietta . 44 navy! And 1858 .44 Remington !
Years ago, before black power shooting became popular, being a college boy meaning no money, I started target shooting a Navy Arms Remington replica with target sights. A couple of my friends got interested and also bought black powder pistols and we did a ton of shooting. We never had problems with jamming on caps. The caps we used were also from Navy Arms and were thin foil, so thin they disappeared when the cylinder they were on was fired. I supposed somebody got a piece of metal in their eye and out came the lawyers.
So true, probably a lawyer was involved. Original period caps were made of foil, so jamming was probably a nonissue.
Hi;
I've watched your Black Powder videos for quite some time now and I must say that they are among the very best there is on CZcams. Many people making videos do so more to hear themselves talk, or to "look good" to their friends. I fin all of your videos to be exceptionally informative, and very truthful in everything you do.
Thanks for some very fine videos. There are a lot of new or younger shooters benefiting from your videos and it's great to see that they can get quality information here.
Good luck with all of your videos in the future, and whatever elso you plan to do.
Very cool!!! This is a modification that I'm going to look into....... Thanks
Oh that's genius, that's just genius.
It's also simple if you think about it. The reason the caps move is because they fire-form to the surface of the hammer, that post just gives them the nudge they need to stay on the nipple.
I'll need to get this done on my Walker, great idea!
the hammer notch just got more serious
Love your Civil war uniform.
Another great video! Well done!
Well, just saw this. Another solution is to polish the hammer face and round the edges. It's the burring left over from machining that sucs the caps off the cones and drops them into the action.
Elegant and permanent solution.
I just discovered Slik Shot nipples. These are replacement nipples for either Uberti or Pietta revolvers. They are made of stainless steel. They have a slightly larger bore and two vent holes drilled into the side of the nipple that relive the back pressure. I have used them with great success on my Pietta 1858 Remington reproduction. They best thing about them is that you can install them yourself. You don't need a gunsmith to modify the gun.
In regard to Fanning the way they used to do this in the mining towns in the 1850s was where they would draw the revolver sometimes thumb it back with the drawing hand so the first shot was entirely with that hand then they would take the left hand with fingers widespread and fan back: index finger, middle finger, ring finger, Pinky. so that way they would Sweep with the hand a single sweep. there are accounts in which people in mining towns would hear a shooting in which it would be "brrrrrupt" sounding like what modern-day machine gun fire would be.
Also with regard to firing six shots out of a six shot revolver... the tenancy when carrying a revolver with the hammer down between two Chambers was for vibration and carry motion to cause the cylinder to turn ever so slightly until the hammer would Come Down --Bam!-- on a live primer. a good solution to this would be to have a gunsmith drill small holes between each chamber and install small pins that would fit on the hammer, so that the hammer would stay steady, and only start to move the cylinder when the hammer is drawn back some. Remington's were made that way. I have two Remington's one uberti,1 pieta-- they have slots cut between the chambers for the hammer to rest in-- but the Colts Hammer is designed differently, so that a pin is the proper solution for that.
I keep one of the remingtons loaded the other one the slots don't quite work as they should so I don't quite trust that revolver
The Confederate Colt clones by Rigdon and Ansley used this in-between mod, tho under a hundred were made. A weak mainspring would be dangerous here.
The R&A revolvers also had a rear sight in a dovetail on the barrel: an obvious mod for accuracy, tho a locus for weakness if overloaded.
I did saw one cao flying off but it is a great modification because clearly revolver did not jam
Brilliant man
Fascinating solution! I'm curious about the long term reliability and stability of the pin.
Track of the Wolf nipples solved the spent cap and blow back issues for me. The gun has become considerably more reliable like they were originally.
The factory nipples have a dreadful taper and this is the main cause of cap fragmentation. Pietta nipples seem to be the worst.
Very cool video, thanks!
I do hold the barrel up some and tilt the gun to the right when I pull the hammer back on both my 1858's and 1851 Pietta's. I very rarely have a jam and never one so bad I had to take the cylinder out. The range never had an issue as long as it was pointed down range all the time, but It's out in the woods to say the least. But that's a pretty simple and genius solution, you would think Sam Colt would have though of that!
they didn't really have issues with it (it did happen, but it was very rare). Because these were cutting edge weapons, utmost attention was made to quality and finish, in order to ensure almost 100% reliability. The firearms industry at large today doesn't really consider these to be "real" guns, more of "novelties", and it shows by the lack of care taken in finishing the guns and making the components for loading them. Instead of looking at what Colt and others did to ensure reliability and ease of using bullets, everyone today tries to reinvent the wheel and do things like: installing pins next to the cones to keep the cap in place, drilling holes in sides of the cones, doubling up the mainsprings (instead of having a proper one), gluing the safety notch in the hammer face shut, and just insisting that "no one used bullets" (because the frames on repros are not relieved enough to allow bullets to be loaded most of the time) lol.
Would you buy a new Glock, Sig-Sauer, or S&W if they jammed all the time and had real issues? Certainly not, and neither would the people that lived in the 19th century (it's not like they didn't already have pistols, these were just repeaters (the key here is repeating, if they don't do that, they aren't much use)).
Very good idea. That was fun to watch.
interesting solution, I have had good luck using slix shot nipples on my 1860 colt army,I may have this done to my 1851 navy, thanks for posting.
GENIUS! Thanks for sharing!
Interesting idea. Next bp revolver I own I will try this.
I liked your quick "Fanning" hahaha
I love this channels and enjoy all the videos, really thankful for this. But for the life of me that I cannot understand your name! :)
Why did they not do this back then?
Wonderful idea.
Brilliant genius is brilliant!
Hello from the Pacific Northwest. Washington state, kinda the wild west
it seems the link to the pdf file is not working anymore. Can someone give a "live" link?
Very nice! Thank you for a great idea.
Thank you. It seems to be a great solution. Do you know if the revolver is still approved for competition with such a modification ?
Кольт, прекрасен!
Awesome video
Great video. Very professional. Thank you.
Very interesting idea. Once I owned a nice looking replica of Colt 1860 and I faced the same problem. A jam after every second shot. Well, you have a solution. Very good and simple. But that is no historical solution.
OK. Is it possible that the armies in that time used a revolver so prone to jam? Would I bet my life on such a revolver? I simply cannot imagine it, I would not. So were the original revolvers less jamming? If yes, why? Better polishing? Anything else?
great idea...thanks
Absolutely an ingenious and practical fix. If this was such a problem why did Colt not fix it? Or is this a more modern age problem?
+hoodoo2001 I believe they didn't have the cap jamming problem in the 19th century.
They used #9 caps I think...
Very neat idea, thank you, I will try this! I have really enjoyed your vids, what country are you from? Thanks
This awesome guy is from Hungary 🇭🇺
Seems to work very well indeed -
That does not keep the busted cap from going all the way around and jamming on the cylinder action, in fact, in another video of this kind, the gun jams despite having the modification sugested here. The problem is in the nipples, the cap should bust only on the bottom and remind "saddled" on the nipple ready to fall as the cylinder turns. This is hard to get right, depends on the design of the nipple and the cap one uses, some people get good results with SliX Shot nipples. Also, the hammer spring is at play and the state of the hammer face...
Can anyone forward a new link to the article mentioned? It’s a dead URL...
Great video! Can that pin be epoxied instead of drilled into the frame?Thanks!
The Tube is gonna clamp down on videos so Please keep me informed it you are using another platform to publish your videos.
hello,
where did u get the modified cylinder to produce the non jamming of the pistol ?
could u show an up close video of the modification please ?
thanks.
wow. that's badass.
now thats a good idea !
nice revolver and shooting its a black powder with modification how and where did you have a modification please ? thanks
What gunsmith did the pin ?
Great idea! I see no problem with this on reproduction revolvers.
What does this do to the old colt safety mechanisms?
many other solutions
You just have way too much fun, I am jealous, lol!
The Hungarian language.. Sounds interesting.
I've been cocking my Colts whilst pointing skyward for so long that I do it with centerfire revolvers too. I still prefer a Colt to a Remington. A Colt is, to me at least, much easier to maintain and clean. I like the grip and balance better as well.
Well the 1858 Remington disassembles just like a Colt SAA, it is pretty easy IMO.
I'm not talking about a SAA. I'm talking black powder, no top strap type Colt designs. They are a lot easier to clean. You can just dump the cylinder and barrel assembly in a sink full of hot soap and water. It's not hard to disassemble a Remington, it's just harder to get the bp fouling out of all the nooks and crannies.
slowpokebr549 Right, the 1858 New Army black powder Remington is like the SAA. Super easy to switch cylinders. I will agree though, the open top Colt is probably VERY nice to clean the barrel out. I didn't think of that.
Yep you end up with three big easy pieces to clean, two of which I just throw in the dishwater..
slowpokebr549 The barrel and cylinder?
Thanks for the tip! Just did that on my 1851 pietta cal.36 shortened (by myself) barrel. The problem is it's a brass frame so no possibility to solder the pin onto the frame. My temporary solution: cyanoacrylate glue... Other than that, finally my 1075+ caps start as well as my remington n°10! My revolver now looks totally rubbish (soldered the lever, removed the black mottle...) but works perfectly fine, even in fanning mode 👍
I'm doing that to my 1860 uberti. Thanks
Was that a union officers uniform at the end?
Just use cap keepers. No mods necessary.
Awesome
Been shooting 60 Army's at matches for years, cap jams just aren't a thing.... Maybe I got lucky?
Where does the pin go? That wasn't clear at all.
Hi - great video, I had the same problem with cap jams. Another good solution I found to work which is easier to do is to install slix shot nipples. Duelist 1954 explains in this video on you tube :
Equipping 1851 Navy replicas with Slix Shot nipples
I like it
lovely!!!!!!!. but do you know anyone in the USA maybe Texas that does this. great work!!!!!!!!!!!
Goons Gun Works did my 1860's and they are dead reliable one has 96 rounds (counted) without a cap jam
I have a uberti 1862 pocket police that I am thinking about doing this to. What size drill bit did you use?
Hi David, the pin is 1,5 mm diameter.
Do you have to disassemble and clean the mechanism on these cap&ball revolvers after each shooting session ??
I agree with Bobby. All BP arms must be cleaned afetr shooting. This is part of the hobby, and fun as well. I do not disassemble the trigger system after each shooting. I clean the cylinder and bore with water, and I spray oil into the action thru all holes.
*****
Yeah, it was the trigger mechanism I was talking about, I know you have to clean the barrel and cylinder right away, but to be honest I do that with any firearm, even guns that fire modern ammo.
Do you disassemble the trigger mechanism at all ??
and if so how often ??
You should put on some Southern attire.
:) We have a small NSSA team. As we are all Hungarian we are paying tribute to the 39th NY Vol Inf, the "Garibaldi Guard". This regiment was organized and led by many Hungarian officers, with quite a lot Hungarian soldiers. However on the Southern side we know of not more than 10-15 soldiers.
Bobby, I will in the future.
Union first and foremost.
do you really have to go to a gunsmith? I'm pretty handy with tools and that looks like a very simple mod. You just have to have steady hands and good eyes. Just drill a hole and insert a pin of the same size, maybe with some glue if its loose.
I made the modification, but caps still get caught in the cylinder of my 1860!
If you cant afford slix-shot nipples, try filing a (only one) very super small notch into each nipple while still on the cylinder, so that just a little pressure hit the cap straight upwards, that should stop the caps from getting blown backwards into the hammer by the pressure and allow just a tiny bit of pressure to push the top side of the cap, tightening it and keeping it in place on the nipple.
Also try deburring the hammer safety notch, the notches on the repro's are heavily burred from machining, and will likely slice into the caps and pull them back towards the hammer, into the action, and voila you can't work the action any longer, not even enough to pull all the caps out of the nipples = to get it working again you have to take apart a gun that still has live ammunition in it!!
Capandball I am having a hard time finding a competent gunsmith to do the work any suggestions?
Just file the hammer face & sharp edges of the hammer slot smooth. That should be enough. The originals were finished that way & had no problems.
I’ll bet the fanning using only skin got old real fast; you’ll need a gloved left hand!
Richard Harrow
does anyone know a good percussion revolver gunsmith that could do this in the united states
Do you have an eBay account I just purchased 2 paper cartridges boxes from an eBay account of the same name
Comment 100 great vid
An easy way is to just fill the groove in the hammer with J.b weld. You won't be able to use the safety pins on the cylinder but just load 5 instead of six!
gbh
awwww he didn't spin and holster the revolver :( thats what all the western stars do…