I would highly recommend putting clear Paint protection film on top. It adds and extra layer of protection. And when that gets scratched just peel it off and put new on
based on condition - Hand sand 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, and adjust starting grit accordingly. McGuire's scratch doctor 2 on a buffer, then pledge spray wax hand buffed with flannel - plenty of elbow grease. takes 1.5 hrs.. Use small overlapping circles like a CNC and dish soapy water when wet sanding. Novus system 321 is good if there are light to moderate scratches when used with a buffer. if you just want to clean it up, a hand buff with carnauba wax is a cheaper freshen up vs novus hand buff.
Thank god I’ve found this video. Just tried to machine polish my lid and have made a bit of a hash of it so will follow this method and hopefully correct the errors :-|
Many thanks for your video, I didn't realise that such a good result is possible. I've just bought a turntable with all of the usual scratches on the lid so I happened on your video at just the right time. Fortunately, I have the equipment so I'm looking forward to the restoration.
Hi John, Secret to success is using only light to moderate pressure, slow speed and don't allow the lid surface to get too hot. It will certainly get warm, but shouldn't be hot. Good luck and I hope you get a great result.
@@hifiaddiction6684 Hi... I can scratch my Technics 1200 Gold easily. If I wanna sand it.... can start with 2000 or 3000.... but how can finish? Can I use wax or something to give it more bright like those sprays for car detailing? Thanks
@@catry707 Hi there, If you use the car polishing compound (Farecla Premium G3) then the finish should be fantastic and effectively like new. But I suppose you could also use a wax, but I've not found the need to try that.
NOVUS 2 fine scratch polish followed with NOVUS 1 clean and shine. Using microfiber cloths and or flannel rags does the best and safest job. It’s also the quickest.
Great video Hifi Addiction! I am about to polish a turn table lid. But I am still thinking over what polishing machine to buy. You mention in the video that your polishing machine rotates at slow speed. Obviously to not overheat the acrylic lid. But my question is: what should the ideal rotation speed be?
Hi there, I'm afraid my basic polisher does not have a speed indication, just slower or faster! Just try a slow speed first and work from there. Feel the acrylic regularly with you hand. It can get quite warm, but should not be really hot.
I am planning on doing this with a orbital and a ton of different polish I have but was afraid of the heat generated. I see you are using a rotary rather than an DA polisher and that gives me hope.
Heat is obviously something you need to be careful with. Keep feeling the lid with your hand. It can get warm without issue, but it must not get hot to touch. Good luck
Hi thank you very much for posting this , restoration is such a rewarding task , especially in this throw away society , can I ask what type of polish I was thinking of T cut would that work
Hi there great video. I've got the usual technics problems with broken hinges on both B2 AND 3300. The spring bracket (not sure of correct name) on the actual 3300 deck has broken as well. Are these replaceable please? Thanks in advance
Hi there, replacement brackets for the B2 are readily available on eBay from a number of sources. For the 3300 it appears your are looking for used parts, which are again available on eBay but seemingly very expensive.
I haven't played around too much with different pads. I must admit, most of the lids have been done with the pad that originally came with the polisher! If you able to feel the pad before buying, then one that is softer probably makes sense. I'm using a harder one currently, and it still works fine, but perhaps you have to be more careful not to overheat the acrylic. The key to success is to take your time. The results are startlingly brilliant. It will make your deck look like new.
I damage the acrylic big time. My brushing machine are super small, the speed is too high. I sand it and fuck up even more 😂 I will try your method to tomorrow
Yes, I think will be much more difficult with a smaller machine. Keep feeling the lid with the palm of your hand... warm is OK, hot is not! If the lid has gone clouding, then you may be able to polish this out. If it has distorted then I fear it's had it. Go slow and don't rush. Also, not too hevy with the pressure.
@@hifiaddiction6684 non ho una lucidatrice, con un trapano a batteria può andare bene lo stesso? C è rischio di rovinarlo ? Che materiale è policarbonato o plexiglass?
@@simonecionco1565 No, don't use a drill unless you can slow the speed right down. I'm not sure what the material is for the SL1200, but it polishes up well.
No es así si se toma su tiempo y reduce la velocidad de su pulidora. Hemos pulido unos 50 párpados de esta manera con excelentes resultados. El secreto es tomarse su tiempo. Buena suerte
Hi there, I'm just showing people how we do it and the fact that the results are pretty amazing. Not telling you this is the only way of doing it and not trying to sell anything. In reality the polisher needn't be expensive and certainly has the potential to cost less than buying a new replacement (if one is available for that particular deck). Just sharing the technique we use.
Hi Ken, can you not see that some of the footage is speeded up, and do you really want to watch me spend over 30 minutes with the polisher? This is not a 'fake', this is how I clean every turntable lid on every turntable I sell. Just did an LP12 lid yesterday. It takes certainly 30 minutes and often longer, but the results are great.
@@kencur9690 Your in the wrong here. Why would someone making a tutorial want to admit their method takes a long 30 minutes to complete? Because it does.... I've done about 10 Technics covers similar to this one. I use a hand-drill with several grades of foam pad and finish up with a wool buffing wheel. Covers that have deep scratches, I sand first. It takes a while to polish out the sanding marks. I've had a few covers take a couple hours to get to a point I was happy with. If you've refinished one yourself you'd understand.
Brilliant. Nice short informative video. Hasn’t rambled on, thank you for passing on your experience.
I would highly recommend putting clear Paint protection film on top. It adds and extra layer of protection. And when that gets scratched just peel it off and put new on
based on condition - Hand sand 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, and adjust starting grit accordingly. McGuire's scratch doctor 2 on a buffer, then pledge spray wax hand buffed with flannel - plenty of elbow grease. takes 1.5 hrs.. Use small overlapping circles like a CNC and dish soapy water when wet sanding. Novus system 321 is good if there are light to moderate scratches when used with a buffer. if you just want to clean it up, a hand buff with carnauba wax is a cheaper freshen up vs novus hand buff.
Thank god I’ve found this video.
Just tried to machine polish my lid and have made a bit of a hash of it so will follow this method and hopefully correct the errors :-|
Thanks guys worked a treat on my three dust covers they look new now !. :)
Fantastic. So pleased it worked well for you. Amazing the difference it makes to the look of a deck.
Many thanks for your video, I didn't realise that such a good result is possible. I've just bought a turntable with all of the usual scratches on the lid so I happened on your video at just the right time. Fortunately, I have the equipment so I'm looking forward to the restoration.
Hi John, Secret to success is using only light to moderate pressure, slow speed and don't allow the lid surface to get too hot. It will certainly get warm, but shouldn't be hot. Good luck and I hope you get a great result.
@@hifiaddiction6684 Thanks for the tip.
@@hifiaddiction6684 Hi... I can scratch my Technics 1200 Gold easily. If I wanna sand it.... can start with 2000 or 3000.... but how can finish? Can I use wax or something to give it more bright like those sprays for car detailing? Thanks
@@hifiaddiction6684 I have polished mine and somehow I get a foggy dust cover is there any way I can make look glossy
@@catry707 Hi there, If you use the car polishing compound (Farecla Premium G3) then the finish should be fantastic and effectively like new. But I suppose you could also use a wax, but I've not found the need to try that.
This is excellent. I actually have that turntable lid. I’ve order a three stage polish kit.
Thank you. Hope you get a great result.
Enjoy this video very much indeed 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you for this video
Круто! Я тоже так хочу отполировать свою крышку от проигрывателя винила! Спасибо!
NOVUS 2 fine scratch polish followed with NOVUS 1 clean and shine. Using microfiber cloths and or flannel rags does the best and safest job. It’s also the quickest.
I have them. They polish very very well but dont take out major scratchs. Only the little ones
Super!
Great video Hifi Addiction!
I am about to polish a turn table lid. But I am still thinking over what polishing machine to buy.
You mention in the video that your polishing machine rotates at slow speed. Obviously to not overheat the acrylic lid.
But my question is: what should the ideal rotation speed be?
Hi there, I'm afraid my basic polisher does not have a speed indication, just slower or faster! Just try a slow speed first and work from there. Feel the acrylic regularly with you hand. It can get quite warm, but should not be really hot.
Hi There
Great Video. I'm looking at the sealey polishers , what speed settings are you using ? They come in different speeds.
I use a Sealey ER1700P polisher. Not sure of the speed as the adjuster doesn't tell you!
I am planning on doing this with a orbital and a ton of different polish I have but was afraid of the heat generated. I see you are using a rotary rather than an DA polisher and that gives me hope.
Heat is obviously something you need to be careful with. Keep feeling the lid with your hand. It can get warm without issue, but it must not get hot to touch. Good luck
Thanks for tips I need since I damaged my dustcover . What model polisher did you use
It's just a cheap car polisher. Doesn't do anything fancy, just adjustable speed.
Hi thank you very much for posting this , restoration is such a rewarding task , especially in this throw away society , can I ask what type of polish I was thinking of T cut would that work
Hello. No, I would not use T-Cut. It's not the right product. I use Farecla Premium G3 which is a car bodyshop paint cutting/polishing compound.
I was the 1000th like...do I win anything? 😂 Kidding, of course. Anyway, thank you for the video. it was very helpful. Cheers!
Hello, thanks for the video. What type of polish are you using?
Farecla Premium G3
I did this. seems similar to headlight polishing.on a other I painted it gloss black.who says a dust cover has to be transparent?
Very similar to headlight polishing, but easier because the acrylic tends to be softer than used on headlight covers.
Hi there great video. I've got the usual technics problems with broken hinges on both B2 AND 3300. The spring bracket (not sure of correct name) on the actual 3300 deck has broken as well. Are these replaceable please? Thanks in advance
Hi there, replacement brackets for the B2 are readily available on eBay from a number of sources. For the 3300 it appears your are looking for used parts, which are again available on eBay but seemingly very expensive.
@@hifiaddiction6684 Thanks
Did you use car polish (wax) or car rubbing /buffing compound?
Hi there, the only product we use is Farecla G3 Premium abrasive compound, a car paint cutting/polishing compound. Hope that helps.
What polish brand product is that ? What grit is on the power polisher and what's the RPM ?
Hi there, the polish is
@@hifiaddiction6684 Way to troll Ms. Wright. 😡
Someone asked me what the polish is that I use. It's Farecla Premium G3. Hope that helps.
Hi, what polishing pads do you use?
I haven't played around too much with different pads. I must admit, most of the lids have been done with the pad that originally came with the polisher! If you able to feel the pad before buying, then one that is softer probably makes sense. I'm using a harder one currently, and it still works fine, but perhaps you have to be more careful not to overheat the acrylic. The key to success is to take your time. The results are startlingly brilliant. It will make your deck look like new.
I damage the acrylic big time. My brushing machine are super small, the speed is too high. I sand it and fuck up even more 😂 I will try your method to tomorrow
Yes, I think will be much more difficult with a smaller machine. Keep feeling the lid with the palm of your hand... warm is OK, hot is not! If the lid has gone clouding, then you may be able to polish this out. If it has distorted then I fear it's had it. Go slow and don't rush. Also, not too hevy with the pressure.
@@hifiaddiction6684 if you have to sand it, wet sand start with 1000 grit. By hand
@@stevefredson3301 Agreed, or even finer. I tend to find 2000 grit does enough
Finish with gel gloss
Thanks for the heads up. I'll look into that.
andrà bene lo stesso per technics sl 1200 mk2?
Yes, it will work fine. Polishing the domed area is tricky, but perfectly possible. We have done a number this way. Use Farecla Premium G3.
@@hifiaddiction6684 non ho una lucidatrice, con un trapano a batteria può andare bene lo stesso? C è rischio di rovinarlo ? Che materiale è policarbonato o plexiglass?
@@simonecionco1565 No, don't use a drill unless you can slow the speed right down. I'm not sure what the material is for the SL1200, but it polishes up well.
Al pulir se calienta el acrilico y queda peor
No es así si se toma su tiempo y reduce la velocidad de su pulidora. Hemos pulido unos 50 párpados de esta manera con excelentes resultados. El secreto es tomarse su tiempo. Buena suerte
Seems as if somebody removed a price-tag with a razorblade, there in the upper right...
If you have only one dust cover you're not gonna invest in a power tool...
Hi there, I'm just showing people how we do it and the fact that the results are pretty amazing. Not telling you this is the only way of doing it and not trying to sell anything. In reality the polisher needn't be expensive and certainly has the potential to cost less than buying a new replacement (if one is available for that particular deck). Just sharing the technique we use.
Siidol e carta. Basta
Hah, this guy! “It took 30 mins” he says, when video is less than 5 mins. Clearly fake.
Hi Ken, can you not see that some of the footage is speeded up, and do you really want to watch me spend over 30 minutes with the polisher? This is not a 'fake', this is how I clean every turntable lid on every turntable I sell. Just did an LP12 lid yesterday. It takes certainly 30 minutes and often longer, but the results are great.
@@hifiaddiction6684 quit lying man, it was clearly less than 5 mins.
@@kencur9690 Your in the wrong here. Why would someone making a tutorial want to admit their method takes a long 30 minutes to complete? Because it does.... I've done about 10 Technics covers similar to this one. I use a hand-drill with several grades of foam pad and finish up with a wool buffing wheel. Covers that have deep scratches, I sand first. It takes a while to polish out the sanding marks. I've had a few covers take a couple hours to get to a point I was happy with. If you've refinished one yourself you'd understand.
@@garretts91 it’s you’re.
And by the way I used a grinder as he said and now I have even deeper scratches!