Thanks for the tip of removing the alternator/power steering bracket to prime the pump! Totally worth ...4 bolts & it's all out of the way! Procedure worked great.
I try to do as much as I can,always have..56 yo now and seen all kinds of people do all kinds of stuff..good stuff and stupid and beyond stupid stuff..I've seen people get robbed for stuff like this at dealerships... doesn't always workout doing this stuff if your not mechanically intelligent or just one of those guys who can do anything....I grew up w no u tube videos so to have this shit is great....this kid is as cool as can be,straight forward ,extremely well spoken explained everything at a speed where you can absorb it all...great job....... I wish you were my neighbor....then he fires it right up w not leaks,noises and oil pressure....I've done all kinds of shit over the years and sometimes I didn't want to turn the key half the time.......great job...
Great video. My oil pump quit on me in my '01 Tahoe 5.3 I was hoping it was just the O-ring or a clogged pickup tube..so i dropped the pan and it was suprisingly VERY cleanfor having 342,000 miles!So..its the pump. I already got the harmonic ballancer bolt out. I just need to get the pullers and the pump kit/timing chain. With that many miles, i bet my chain is a streched as an old rubber band...lol ..but it actually ran very well befor the pump quit. Thanks again for the video.
Any updates? I’ve got a an ‘06 Sierra 5.3 with 306k and I’m getting ready to do my timing chain (lifter tick and now a rattle that comes and goes). Considering putting a higher pressure oil pump as well and seeing this video and this comment is only reinforcing it
@@videos-for-friends Yes..got the pump swapped and put in a new timing chain right after i made that comment back in late June. I used the Melling oil pump with the blue spring (cant remember part number at this time) and the Cloyes timing chain/gear set (again, cant remember the part number). I ordered everything from Amazon, even the Fel-Pro gasket set which included every gasket needed for the job. You HAVE to get a new harmonic balancer bolt, also. I rented the harmonic balancer puller and timing gear puller from Auto-Zone. From tear down to reassembly, it took me about 6-7 hours. My oil pressure never goes below 50 psi and at times on the highway, its at 70 psi.
@@videos-for-friends right on! Hope it works out. Its really not a bad/hard job. I could have done it alot faster if i was JUST doing an oil pump/timing chain swap. But i pulled the oil pan to check for sludge and metal shavings. When my pump went bad, it just stopped pumping. No warning. So my first thought was clogged pickup tube. But, it was not clogged and the oil pan was super clean. Threw on a new gasket and reinstalled it. That was time consuming..the plastic air dams and engine crossmember had to come out to get the pan off.
@@lessthanzero8522 Yeahhh… we were gonna drop the pan but on the Sierra’s you need to unhook that same cross member and even the rack and pinion. I am happy I learned about these old LS’s and oil pumps. We decided against it since it still gets 40psi at idle, still doing timing and that Melling oil pump.
This is just like me in my driveway doing mine...hammer and all....I love how Mechanic's cringe the way we do things...thanks...I just did mine....the bolt in sump tube was the hardest part...I used a pair of curved hemostats w a lil gasket material on end to hold in.... hopefully finishing tomorrow...if I can remember it where all the bolts go...fine job.
I replaced the o ring in my buddy's 4.8 with over 300,000 miles just by dropping oil pan . Restored his oil pressure and has put another hard 50,000 miles on it,
you can also finger tighten the four mount bolts, Then crank the engine with the crank bolt, then torque them down. That’s what the melling techs reccomend
First things first, u should have primed the new pump, shimed it and used the galley plug to prime it. Then finger tighten front cover fit the balancer correctly, not the way you did. You risk stripping the threads. Once the balancer is set you then tighten sump bolts first to pull the front plate down then torque others. Simple mistakes.
You can get that bolt without dropping pan I can’t understand why everyone drops pan for a bolt or pump the pan gasket is designed for quick cam change on ls motor 👍🏽
You can not remove the pickup tube from the oil pump without dropping the oil pan. There is no clearance for any tool. There is no space to work the tool if you could manage to get one in there. I have done and have seen this job done many, many times. Not once was pump removed without dropping the pan.
@@mikeadler8239 I just did it. Take a 10mm 15-degree offset box wrench and grind the end down making it 1/2 as thick. Once you crack the bolt loose you don't need the wrench any longer. Use your pinky finger to turn the bolt. Before taking it all the way out tie a slipknot it some string and lasso the bolt so you can retrieve it if it falls into the pan. To install the bolt first grind the tab on the left side of the pickup tube flange...Spin the flange around to the left side of the pickup tube and bolt the tube down.
30% of ls oil failure can come from the Cam plate, the cam plate seal if going bad can lead to other oiling issues, same with rear gasket, you should always change the cam plate, The factory Seal for the pickup is Blue or Red, so looks like someone installed the o ring wrong,
I changed the sensor once the oil pressure dropped. I would rev high and the oil pressure would rise slightly so once I changed it and realized it was the same I bought the parts
What is the code of your engine if it is an O then you should be using AM295 because it is a vortech engine used in trucks and vans if it is AJ then it uses an M365 melon pump you must know the right pump for the right G MLS engine if you put a high volume M365 in your O code iron block 5.3 You will blow the valve covers off. The LS engine in your truck (vortec) is not the same LS engine you would find in a car something to think about
That’s a really good question, I do it because it’s just the way my dad taught me, in theory the alignment shouldn’t change but I know that there are some engines that have designed the camshaft sprocket to be slightly offset so the same tooth isn’t hitting same tooth on the crank gear each time.
I didn't. if I remember correctly these metal gaskets are good for a while and are riveted to the oil pan. if you do this for a Silverado it might be easy to remove the pan and do it if you like.
No i got all kinds of stuff In the way of fully dropping the oil pan. sub frame ect. So good to know it can be done without fully dropping it on my LS 5.3 chevy suburban. But should I worry about the screen as you mentioned you did the screen previously. I'm doing the timing but replacing everything up front while I'm in there.
@@FireRuby999yea it’s a good idea to clean out the screen but it’s like one of those things will it mess with the oil pressure? Probably not , are you keep the truck for a good while? Then yea suck it up lol 😂
I noticed you put a different style cam sprocket on then factory, did this cause any problems, people are telling me it will cause the engines computer to make miscalculations
Nope it’s running the same way, I did measure the length of the chain and the circumference of the wheel before installing. If it does make a difference I’m sure it’s minor
Ok thank I’m doing mine now. So as long as the to marks are lined up I can pull it of or how do I know it’s too dead center I have the same engine as you
Thanks for the tip of removing the alternator/power steering bracket to prime the pump! Totally worth ...4 bolts & it's all out of the way! Procedure worked great.
dude I love the string idea... I laughed my ass off when I saw you did that. What a great IDEA seriously!!!
I try to do as much as I can,always have..56 yo now and seen all kinds of people do all kinds of stuff..good stuff and stupid and beyond stupid stuff..I've seen people get robbed for stuff like this at dealerships... doesn't always workout doing this stuff if your not mechanically intelligent or just one of those guys who can do anything....I grew up w no u tube videos so to have this shit is great....this kid is as cool as can be,straight forward ,extremely well spoken explained everything at a speed where you can absorb it all...great job....... I wish you were my neighbor....then he fires it right up w not leaks,noises and oil pressure....I've done all kinds of shit over the years and sometimes I didn't want to turn the key half the time.......great job...
Thanks for the kind words my man!
@@madmike_9343 very impressed...you would be a great teacher.....
You saved me 1300 dollars! My mechanic laughed when I told him ill change my timing belt and oil pump im laughing at him now cause I saved 1100
Hell yea man!
Timing chain
He laughed because you called it a timing belt....on an ls....lol.
Dude. Cutting the washer portion off the crank bolt? Tying a string around the pick-up tube bolt? Pure genius!
Nice Chevy S10 Xtreme bro!!!
Great video.
My oil pump quit on me in my '01 Tahoe 5.3
I was hoping it was just the O-ring or a clogged pickup tube..so i dropped the pan and it was suprisingly VERY cleanfor having 342,000 miles!So..its the pump.
I already got the harmonic ballancer bolt out. I just need to get the pullers and the pump kit/timing chain. With that many miles, i bet my chain is a streched as an old rubber band...lol
..but it actually ran very well befor the pump quit.
Thanks again for the video.
Any updates? I’ve got a an ‘06 Sierra 5.3 with 306k and I’m getting ready to do my timing chain (lifter tick and now a rattle that comes and goes). Considering putting a higher pressure oil pump as well and seeing this video and this comment is only reinforcing it
@@videos-for-friends Yes..got the pump swapped and put in a new timing chain right after i made that comment back in late June. I used the Melling oil pump with the blue spring (cant remember part number at this time) and the Cloyes timing chain/gear set (again, cant remember the part number). I ordered everything from Amazon, even the Fel-Pro gasket set which included every gasket needed for the job. You HAVE to get a new harmonic balancer bolt, also. I rented the harmonic balancer puller and timing gear puller from Auto-Zone. From tear down to reassembly, it took me about 6-7 hours. My oil pressure never goes below 50 psi and at times on the highway, its at 70 psi.
@@lessthanzero8522 I’m sold… gonna be putting a timing set and pump on it next week… gonna send it to a shop for the valves
@@videos-for-friends right on! Hope it works out. Its really not a bad/hard job. I could have done it alot faster if i was JUST doing an oil pump/timing chain swap. But i pulled the oil pan to check for sludge and metal shavings. When my pump went bad, it just stopped pumping. No warning. So my first thought was clogged pickup tube. But, it was not clogged and the oil pan was super clean. Threw on a new gasket and reinstalled it. That was time consuming..the plastic air dams and engine crossmember had to come out to get the pan off.
@@lessthanzero8522 Yeahhh… we were gonna drop the pan but on the Sierra’s you need to unhook that same cross member and even the rack and pinion. I am happy I learned about these old LS’s and oil pumps. We decided against it since it still gets 40psi at idle, still doing timing and that Melling oil pump.
Thanks for doing this video. Like the cool jazz background music. Maybe I should listen to this stuff while I work to keep from getting pissed!😂
Ha nice, thanks buddy
This is just like me in my driveway doing mine...hammer and all....I love how Mechanic's cringe the way we do things...thanks...I just did mine....the bolt in sump tube was the hardest part...I used a pair of curved hemostats w a lil gasket material on end to hold in.... hopefully finishing tomorrow...if I can remember it where all the bolts go...fine job.
To avoid the bolts place problem every time you remove a bolt put it back where it go and keep working .
I replaced the o ring in my buddy's 4.8 with over 300,000 miles just by dropping oil pan . Restored his oil pressure and has put another hard 50,000 miles on it,
Very helpful video!
Thanks man!!
Nice job, mate!
I can't believe you're filming this.
Why
thanks
Got a cheap wrench and bend it to reach the pickup tube bolt
I’m building my first ls i think I might take it a step further and center the gear in oil pump housing
you can also finger tighten the four mount bolts, Then crank the engine with the crank bolt, then torque them down.
That’s what the melling techs reccomend
I think you should have hand tightened the bolts, and then used the harmonic balancer to align the front cover, and then torqued the bolts.
Yea, there is a bunch of ways to do this, I haven’t had any leaks since I’ve done it other than the oil pressure sensor fail.
First things first, u should have primed the new pump, shimed it and used the galley plug to prime it. Then finger tighten front cover fit the balancer correctly, not the way you did. You risk stripping the threads. Once the balancer is set you then tighten sump bolts first to pull the front plate down then torque others. Simple mistakes.
Yea that’s probably true but truck is still running strong with no issues
You can get that bolt without dropping pan I can’t understand why everyone drops pan for a bolt or pump the pan gasket is designed for quick cam change on ls motor 👍🏽
I don’t see how, maybe a special wench. I’d like to see a video about it.
You can not remove the pickup tube from the oil pump without dropping the oil pan. There is no clearance for any tool. There is no space to work the tool if you could manage to get one in there. I have done and have seen this job done many, many times. Not once was pump removed without dropping the pan.
@@mikeadler8239 I just did it. Take a 10mm 15-degree offset box wrench and grind the end down making it 1/2 as thick. Once you crack the bolt loose you don't need the wrench any longer. Use your pinky finger to turn the bolt. Before taking it all the way out tie a slipknot it some string and lasso the bolt so you can retrieve it if it falls into the pan. To install the bolt first grind the tab on the left side of the pickup tube flange...Spin the flange around to the left side of the pickup tube and bolt the tube down.
30% of ls oil failure can come from the Cam plate, the cam plate seal if going bad can lead to other oiling issues, same with rear gasket, you should always change the cam plate, The factory Seal for the pickup is Blue or Red, so looks like someone installed the o ring wrong,
How far on the crank do you install the lower gear for the timing chain? Does it have a stop once it's fully seated?
yea pretty much you can feel it, then just torque to spec
What year is your truck brother? I see that you don’t have the tapped holes for a chain dampener.
Mines an 02
How did you verify that it was actually the pump, and not just the pressure switch at the back of the intake?
I changed the sensor once the oil pressure dropped. I would rev high and the oil pressure would rise slightly so once I changed it and realized it was the same I bought the parts
What is the code of your engine if it is an O then you should be using AM295 because it is a vortech engine used in trucks and vans if it is AJ then it uses an M365 melon pump you must know the right pump for the right G MLS engine if you put a high volume M365 in your O code iron block 5.3 You will blow the valve covers off. The LS engine in your truck (vortec) is not the same LS engine you would find in a car
something to think about
Why do you have to align the timing marks if you dont move the crank or camshaft everything stays relative to the key ways and gears . ?
That’s a really good question, I do it because it’s just the way my dad taught me, in theory the alignment shouldn’t change but I know that there are some engines that have designed the camshaft sprocket to be slightly offset so the same tooth isn’t hitting same tooth on the crank gear each time.
@@madmike_9343 Thanks Mike..Your Dad no doubt taught you right way.
What size wrench is needed for oil pickup tube bolt
I believe it was a 10mm
I am about to do this job also. But I have one question? Since you dropped the oil pan down some. You dont have to replace the oil pan gasket? No?
I didn't. if I remember correctly these metal gaskets are good for a while and are riveted to the oil pan. if you do this for a Silverado it might be easy to remove the pan and do it if you like.
No i got all kinds of stuff In the way of fully dropping the oil pan. sub frame ect. So good to know it can be done without fully dropping it on my LS 5.3 chevy suburban. But should I worry about the screen as you mentioned you did the screen previously. I'm doing the timing but replacing everything up front while I'm in there.
@@FireRuby999yea it’s a good idea to clean out the screen but it’s like one of those things will it mess with the oil pressure? Probably not , are you keep the truck for a good while? Then yea suck it up lol 😂
What cam did you use and was your chain loose at all?
Stock cam and yes a little
I noticed you put a different style cam sprocket on then factory, did this cause any problems, people are telling me it will cause the engines computer to make miscalculations
Nope it’s running the same way, I did measure the length of the chain and the circumference of the wheel before installing. If it does make a difference I’m sure it’s minor
@@madmike_9343 Thank you, I greatly appreciate your speedy reply.
Can I replace the oil pump without chaging the timing chains?
Yea but it’s worth spending the money and changing it out now then have to worry about it in the future
Hey bro would u happen to have a part number on the timing chain kit?
oil pump kit
www.ebay.com/itm/Melling-HIGH-VOLUME-Oil-Pump-Change-Kit-w-Gaskets-RTV-Balancer-Bolt-for-GM-LS/192594776339?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
timing chain
www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-1999-2007-Chevrolet-Silverado-1500-Timing-Chain-Kit-Front-Cloyes-12976MC-20/292747641076?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Not clearly explained how to adjust time sprockets
This is a good example of not having the proper tools to perform the work...
@@MidwestPatinaWerks-qt4el I can’t tell if this is an insult or compliment
I could not get the puller from Oriellys to work
Which one
What year model 5.3 do you have?
Same as the truck 2002
I think you forgot to put RTV on the corners of the timing cover.
I put it on the oil pan
@@madmike_9343 I see! I don’t see that part but good. Otherwise you’ll have leaks like a woman on a period 😂
@@buddyrebel_Garcia ahahaha women
@@madmike_9343 lol
Can't believe you didn't prime it or soak the chain or anything
I did off camera
Hey why did you replace the chain and sprockets
It’s just a good idea to change what you can while you’re there since it’s a pain
Ok thank I’m doing mine now. So as long as the to marks are lined up I can pull it of or how do I know it’s too dead center I have the same engine as you
@@codycristo7560 there is dots or lines that you can line up should see it on the sprocket ⚙️
Yeah I got them lined up but do they have to be perfectly lined up I can’t tell if it’s off a little
Also thanks for replying I appreciate the advice
How long did it take you to do it
I was able to do it in a day
@@madmike_9343 what was to total price in parts
@@antoniopelayo6235 total in parts was 251.
Starts It and revs it with zero oil pressure then heats up the balancer bolt which makes it expand making it harder to remove 🤣🤦♂️
Heat helps remove bolts especially with locktite on the treads
Still good helpful video👍I thought 💭 same thing about starting. If it shows such low pressure, why would you start it AND Rev it? 🤔 🤦🏻
@@joeyshelby9786 just to show you guys. I actually drove it home like that😂 still running strong
Dont run it that way!
Why?
@madmike_9343 every second at zero oil pressure there is damage happening while running.
@@foreverendeavors6210 i primed the pump tho. It’s been running strong and getting abused since then