Servo motor on a HF 1x30 belt sander for speed and direction control
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- čas přidán 9. 02. 2022
- This is a brief overview of using a new industrial sewing machine motor to power a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander for sharpening knives or doing other work that would benefit from having speed and direction control. For a technical explanation of how this is electrically connected, see • How to wire the sewing... . The motor is currently available on Amazon as "Mophorn CS1000 Sewing Machine Servo Motor, 3/4HP 4500rpm Single Phase Electric Servo Drive Motor for Industrial Sewing Machine, 110V, 550W" for about $90. The motor/controller allows speed control (100rpm to 4500rpm) and belt feed direction control (cw or ccw), min and max speeds, and many other less useful parameters.
Mounting the motor requires drilling four small holes centered around the original motor opening and boring the old pulley to the new motor shaft diameter. I would suggest adjusting and "shaving" the main pulley once installed to make sure it's centered around the shaft.
The controller seems designed to go under a table. For me, it takes two thumbs to open the parameter list so that is why I mounted it in that funky position. I'd like to mount it behind the sander one day.
Using the supplied hardware, I suppose you can set up a foot pedal to control speed or use the hall effect sensor arm directly which I did try and it works well. Alternatively, you could find or buy a compatible sewing machine foot pedal. You can change the motor direction cw or ccw from a parameter on the controller panel which requires several steps and it takes around 10 seconds. A very useful feature is to control the min and max speeds from parameters on the controller panel.
I’m showing a potentiometer for speed control and a switch for direction control, which requires some resistors and a quad relay module and lot's of other parts and time.
I’m also showing a couple of custom rigs. One is using a Tormek bar to maintain the cutting angle. The other is a removable scissor sharpening arm jig on the other 1x30.
Hope this is useful and I would love to hear suggested improvements, other solutions and experience if you try it.
Disclaimer: I have not tested the motor very much but it seems okay so far except for some vibration at higher speeds. I can say it did not bog down when I jammed a stick of wood at it, so it seems to have plenty of power. HF claims the belt sander runs at 3260 fpm, which, if I can still do math correctly, is about 3160 rpm. I think 2 pole induction motors at 60Hz run 3600 rpms unloaded. The new motor can run from 100 rpm to 4500 rpm so vibration and safety (with cheap HF bearings & pulleys) might be something to watch at higher speeds. I don’t expect to be using it above 2000 rpm.
Just FYI there is potential get substantially zapped by these if you plan to mess with the electronics doing things like adding a potentiometer. On the larger units, for example, two 1500uF capacitors in series, and then directly on mains has plenty of potential for a serious zap! Also, with 4 100k discharge resistors you've got an RC time of 4e5*750e-6 = 300.0 = 5 minutes. It would need 4 RC times to get to 50V (from a start of 300V), so that's 20 minutes, and even then it's still got some juice left. That sure is a quick way for beginners to learn real fast. On the typical 3/4hp versions odds are the control circuit is connected to the negative side of the DC bus which will effectively be half-wave rectified mains, so will peak at about -170V with respect to earth ground. You should assume its mains live, so choose components with appropriately rated insulation, secure and insulate wiring as-if its mains and make sure the pot has either a plastic mounting bush and shaft or if metal, is mounted to a properly grounded metal panel and fitted with an insulating knob.
Awesome
Awesome video Glen. Trying to figure out how to get a variable speed belt grinder that doesn't break the bank and this is great inspiration. Hooking up the dial seems a bit daunting to me for now though. Gotta find a decent HF alternative here which is quite difficult. How did you determine which motor to buy in relation to what may fit easiest with the grinder- looking at the mounting? I have many questions but I'll leave it at that for now haha.
I'd be glad to TRY and help. You don't really need the dial because it comes with a nice little arm to control speed; just remove the spring and you're good to go. You can also change the direction in about 10 seconds of pushing buttons. However I did make a video about how to connect the dial and a direction switch. See czcams.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/video.html but I think you're better off using it as it comes unless you just like tinkering with electronics.
I bought "Consew CSM1000 Sewing Machine Electric Servo Motor, 110 Volt, 3/4HP, 550W " on Amazon which fit just fine with some moderate precision drilling of the mounting holes and boring the pulley hole a little bigger. This unit has four symmetrical mounting holes.
Note: I did try a version which has a hood over the pulley like "Mophorn 110V 600W Sewing Machine Servo Motor Max Speed 4500RPM Energy Saving Mute Tie Bar Brushless Servo Motor for Industrial Sewing Machine" on Amazon. That version has three mounting holes but they are not symmetrical. I think it would work okay if you mount the motor so that the screws are opposite the force pulling on the pulley, but for simplicity I'd look for a four hole unit.
So you're not in Harbor Freight territory? Just curious where you live. You can order the same thing on Amazon, eBay but pay more than walking into a HF store.
Excellent set up. May ask you where you got the holding bracket for guiding rod? Thanks.
Thank you for your comment, the guide is called a Tormek BGM-100 bench grinder mounting set. It's available on Amazon for about $100. The rest of it is just some lumber and drawer rails I put together. The biggest problem is having enough space to reach the knob, while making it to be steady and reliable.
Thank you for replying and your valuable information.@@1man4JC
Can you please make a video on how to hook up the potentiometer and the reverse switch please who di you connect the wires in particular? Thanks
Hi Lapo, thanks for your request. I will try and put something together soon. Glen
Here's video describing the potentiometer and a couple of ways to control direction. Hope this helps, please let me know how it goes. See czcams.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/video.html Glen
I looked at that same motor. What is the shaft size? Cliff Curry makes a drive wheel bored out to 15mm.
Yes, it's a 15mm shaft. It would be wonderful to have a better pulley(s) than the ones from HF. Please feel free to give a link to Cliff's offer.
FYI: When I took it apart to check the shaft diameter, I took a few pictures (see files below). That reminded me that I used a spacer between the motor bearings and the pulley. I thought about making a spacer, but I found a large 5/8" split lock washer that acts as a spacer and helps lock the pulley on as well.
The HF motor shaft had a flat grind and a set screw but the sewing machine motor has a slot. I guess you could cut a matching slot on the pulley for a key, but I just used a tooth locking washer on the outside to help with the grip. Plus I aligned the slot with the set screw (3mm Allen head) for a little extra slip resistance.
All together it JUST did fit so that i have enough threads exposed on the motor shaft. I'm not certain that the big pulley is perfectly aligned with the little ones so a more precise spacer is something you might consider. Right now I can adjust the belt tracking to work fine, but it does require re-adjustment when changing direction.
I'd love to hear how it goes for you, Glen
drive.google.com/file/d/1M3ViiPy7emZTMXv1mCTkBtW-eMUrZAAH/view?usp=sharing
drive.google.com/file/d/1MKmnJr_x6zaHHff1lmKxvjnFzzqhtkKC/view?usp=sharing
Finally got my motor. Mine has a shaft collar and what looks like a set screw tucked underneath the drive wheel, but no way to access. I'll have to figure that out. Was yours like that? Looks the same as yours.
Sorry, never sent you the link. Cliff sells a set of trued wheels and one that fits the 15 mm shaft.
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/machine-parts/products/test-bundle
Hi, have you made something that can control acceleration and deceleration of this motor. Plz also share that of you have.
Hi Ume, from the user manual, parameter 6 controls "acceleration time from 0 to 4500 (spm). Time = 900 / value (ms)". The default is 6. It looks like you can change this from one to nine. I don't see anything about deceleration. It looks like you can change PID coefficients which should affect both acceleration and deceleration. Parameter 30 says "waiting time for needle position stop", but I'm not sure what that means. That's all I know, hope that helps.
Can you pass along where you got the scissor jig?
Hi John, I bought the scissor arm & jig from a company in Canada called Elitetools and I think the product is made by Viel. Their current offering is at www.elitetools.ca/en/portable-mini-vise-s-bessey-s-10. It appears that the arm design has changed. All I can say is the one I'm using is very solid and smooth. The scissor holder jig is also well made.
To install it, I made a receptacle slot by milling a 1/4" steel plate and then attaching it to the side of the 1x30. The connection is tight, but I'm able to remove the arm if needed. I'll send you a CAD drawing if that will help.
Another source might be wolffindustries.com/collections/arms/Twice-As-Sharp.
If I just want to replace the slide lever with a potentiometer what size potentiometer would I need?
Hi. Note: there are some seriously large high voltage capacitors so I recommend some good rubber gloves. I used a 10k pot to match the resistance I measured from the connection. I took a while to get the inverse log that the controller wants. See if you can find this czcams.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/video.html to explain the connections. The pot is not a perfect match in that you can see an error each time you first power up, especially if the pot is fully CCW. But move the pot CW and the error goes away. The slide lever works well if you remove the spring, but let me know how it goes if you want the pot. I would recommend sealing the pot well if you're in a dirty location (and my shop has grit and metal dust no matter how much I clean) which is something you don't need to worry about with the slide lever.
On the drive wheel, did you put a spacer in front of it or did you use the set screw? I see a washer and nut to tighten it I assume.
Hi Robert, in order to use a locking nut and bolt on the front I had to put a spacer on the back (between the motor and the drive wheel). I started making a spacer, but I found a large split washer that was great between the motor as a spacer. The size I remember was a 5/8" split washer but I can check if you like.
@@1man4JC ok sure that would greatly help! How many of those split washers did you put? What screws would I use to mount the motor on casing? Also mine didn’t come with that square aluminum bracket to mount it. You happen to have one?
Here are some specs of the hardware I used for mounting the motor.
I used one split washer as a spacer is 5/8”ID, 1”OD, 0.165” thick.
Note: using a split washer is not ideal. First it doesn't close all the way which would throw the balance out if the hole isn't bored for a tight fit. It would be better to make a spacer that exactly holds the pulley out to the centerline. It looks like you can buy metal tubing from Amazon: "uxcell 6063 Aluminum Round Tube, 300mm Length 20mm OD 15mm Inner Dia Seamless Aluminum Straight Tubing 2 Pcs" and part off a piece to length.
(4) The motor mounting screws are M4-0.7x20mm.
(4) You’ll need to drill 4mm holes* x 65mm apart in the sander frame, aligned with the center of the opening hole.
(*but I would make the holes bigger if drilling by hand)
The sewing machine motor shaft and pulley connection is different than the HF motor that uses a flat on the motor shaft. The sewing machine shaft is round with a woodruff key slot and has a 15mm diameter. This is larger than the HF motor, so the pulley must be bored precisely perpendicular and to almost exactly 15mm.
The set screw included with HF pulley takes a 3mm allen wrench.
This set screw can be reused and screwed into the new motor woodruff type slot.
The tooth washer is 1/2”
I think the holding nut is M12x1.75. Note: I didn't need to use all the threads in the nut to get close to the center line.
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "square aluminum bracket"? Can you help me?
@@1man4JC yes, on the video of your motor mounted it has a square aluminum bracket that goes with those M4 screws on the HF machine.Just look at the motor mounted to the case of the HF sander. That’s what I’m talking about. My motor doesn’t have that bracket.
This is dhat I'm looking for
Hello, looking at that tormek jig. Is that available? How did you mount that to what material?
Search Amazon for "Tormek BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Set",. The mount is a couple of 2x4s glued together and mounted on drawer slides. Using the slides vertically might be better. Hope that helps.
@@1man4JC ok those slides are available on Amazon as well? You have rollers underneath the mount? On the 2 by 4’s?
@@robertmunguia250 It's been a while, but this is what I have in my purchase history: "Zengest Full Extension Less Noise Ball Bearing Drawer Slides, 10 Inches, 1-Pair"
Also, to stabilize the block: "POWERTEC 20323 Push/Pull Quick-Release Toggle Clamp 301A - 100 lbs Holding Capacity w Rubber Pressure Tip, 2PK"
Note: there is some tricky geometry. I lifted the sander about 1.5" high on an L-shaped block so I could use the tension release knob. From memory, that's why I choose to lay the bearing down horizontally. Also, I had to bevel the block. Send me an email please: GlenFrancis78@gmail.com and we can discuss it further.
Ok sure thing! Thanks.
Vertically?
Nice set up. Where did you get that relay board
Amazon: "2pcs DC 5V Relay Module 4 Channel Relay Board Shield with Optocoupler Isolation Suport High/Low Level Trigger", but I think you can a 4pole double throw switch also from Amazon which is simpler, I just couldn't find one at the time. And you don't really need to reverse with a switch if you don't mind taking a few seconds to use the buttons on the controller which will also change direction.
@@1man4JC Ok cool ill have a look and give it a go
Do you have a video on how to attach that scissor attachment to the 1x30? Also how do I find out what angle the scissors are at and how do I find what angle the scissor attachment is?
I haven't made a video about scissors because I have very little experience. I just paint the edge with an indelible marker and adjust the angle so that it gets rid of the marker evenly. I do have a CAD drawing and I'll be glad to show you what I did if you email me how to contact you.
Do you think that scissor jig will fit on a toolker 1x30?
I have a toolker 1x30. Do you think I can attach the scissor guide to it?
@@vinnym5095 Hi Vinny. That looks like a cool machine, I haven't seen one like that. Sorry, I cannot immediately see a place to mount a scissor jig like the one I have, but I'm hoping you can find a way I cannot see or another type of jig.
@@1man4JC where can I find the swing arm and mount scissor mount?
Here again, how did you get it to go to 100rpm? It only says 400-4500rpm.
Hi Robert, the literature I got shows that parameter P-01 is the startup speed and the default is 500. It looks like you can make it as low as 100. Does that help? Please email me so I can send you some pictures and we can discuss boring the pulley.
What button sequence do you have to do to make it go in reverse?
Hopefully I’m remembering this, but you can check the literature.
As you may know, you can change direction using the controller only. There’s no need for a complex external switch.
To do this, you will change parameter 5. The controller must be on and the belt not running.
To enter the parameter change mode, simultaneously push and hold the ‘P’ and ‘S’ buttons for a few seconds. I find it easiest to use both thumbs.
Now use the green up and down buttons to select parameter 5. Press the S button to enter the parameter change mode.
Use the green up and down buttons to select “on” or “off” which really means clockwise and counter clockwise.
Then push the S button to save the change. Now the belt should run in the opposite direction. I think that the controller remembers you have chosen parameter 5, so you don’t have to scroll the parameter list every time. Once you’ve done it a few times, it’s not as difficult as it sounds.
@@1man4JC thank you very much. I just upgraded my 1x30’s motor.
Can't you reverse the rotation with the "S" button?
Yes, and that's what I recommend! You can also use the speed arm instead of a potentiometer, just take off the spring.
Is that the same stock drive wheel on the harbor freight?
Yes it's the same wheel, but I had to bore it out to a slightly larger diameter. I used a metal lathe because that's what I have handy. A wood lathe should work well with the right chuck. I suspect a drill bit would be okay but I would get a bit that gives a tight fit. Between the motor and the wheel I wanted a spacer that would allow me to torque the wheel into the motor shaft and I started to make one, but I found a large lock washer that could do the job.. After I torqued the wheel down, I drove the existing set screw into the key slot for a little extra connection. As you may know, the harbor freight wheels are notoriously centered badly. So after mounting, I shaved the wheel to make sure it's well centered which helps cut down somewhat on vibration. I flipped the sander on its side and there's an open area where you can insert a chisel backwards and do some trimming, but I don't recommend this because of the risk that it will kick out. You might want to look at the comments to Grant Lauinger. If you hit "read more" there are also photos. Grant suggested that a guy named Cliff Curry makes properly sized wheels. I also found another website called knifegrinderparts.com. I would love to hear how it comes out and please email me if you have any questions. If you can't find another solution and you're willing to you pay for shipping both ways then I'll bore it out for free.
@@1man4JC sure thing. Thanks I’ve wanted to make the original fit in the psi motor. It’s a variable speed motor also. That shaft is also 15mm.
I’m interested in having stock wheel bored out. Where do I send it to? I’ll pay ship.