The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book The Paperback at Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2ckWACn 25 Valve Cores - amzn.to/2L37UJU 25 ¼” Brass Port Caps with rubber O-rings - amzn.to/2GIOdD2 Brass Valve Core Tool which holds 3 valve cores - amzn.to/2GFEbm2 Valve Core Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2GHiLoD Locking Cap Universal Lock/Unlock Tool - amzn.to/2GGAoVp Locking caps - amzn.to/2GFXZ8A Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Yellow Jacket Sealright 90 Coupler- amzn.to/2LsU1V7 Yellow Jacket 1pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2uXdF18 Yellow Jacket 3pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2AiKfQe Thumb Screw Valve Core Depressor with Backseat- amzn.to/2mR0sCL UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe Accutrak VPE-GN Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2Zy4IZP FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Ultrasonic Leak Detector with Headphones- amzn.to/2B2cRO3 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
thank you for this, i had to downgrade my thermastat from the honeywell one since the wifi burned up in it and couldnt control it anymore, it also shares ur usage even if u didnt opt in. so i put another old stat in and this really helped as i forgot how it was setup since it doesnt have the full wiring for newer ones.
Got it. Thermostat operation for COOLING it connects R,c to Y and G to to operate the FAN and the CONTACTOR outside. For HEAT operation R is connected (inside the thermostat) for heat to the W But no connection to Fan, because with heat the fan is controlled by the control board. It is possible to have 2 transformers one for heat and one for cooling. Thank you. 11/19/2023
Thank you. I’m an automotive tech but with this wiring diagram and your explanation, I was able to join my furnace and central air from two separate thermostats to one.
Thank you very much for the tutorial. I have been telling my neighbor who bought a new Honeywell RTH2300 thermostate which HAS BATTERYS. I tried telling him you don't need to hook up the blue wire from your furnace to the RTH 2300 thermostat since the thermostat has battery's. I hooked it up this way without the blue wire connected to the RTH 2300 thermostat and BOOM on came the heat. Maybe a gander at this video will convince him.This is the only video I have found that specifically tell's you this about the blue wire and the RTH 2300 Honeywell thermostat. Honeywell done.
Thank you for saving my butt, again! Viewed your stuff when a power surge burned up my HVAC circuit board last winter. Used it again today when the AC wouldn't cool (because I left a wire off of the new board). This is AWESOME!
Very simple and very detailed explanation! I'm looking to have an AC installed to the existing furnace and now have a better idea how all the components work together.
Great video helper. Now if just installation techs actually used the color coding correctly, the average home DIYer can fix a broken thermostat without frying something. I have seen and know techs that purposely connect by THEIR standard so when YOU try to fix it, BAM something breaks worse requiring you calling them for more money out your pocket. Since they are "certified HVAC" they will be protected from lawsuit being a non HVAC person should not be touching it in the first place. My 30 year old Nordyne system still runs strong today with my maintenance schedule and compressor cleaning system.
@@ebenezerwheezer4619 I just bought a new house and went to install a new thermostat. The previous tech left the C from the furnace disconnected, attached the the R from the furnace to the C going to the Thermostat, put a jumper from the C on the thermostat to the R, and wired the float switch between the C on the thermostat and a the red wire going to the condenser. I'm pretty sure that's how it was. But I know for sure the C from the furnace was unused and the red wire from the furnace was spliced into a blue wire and the condenser had a yellow and a red wire. So yeah, some of them screw it up their own special way. I guarantee it wasn't a homeowner who did that. The average homeowner isn't going to connect different colored wires to each other for giggles.
That's the best video explanation of the signal flow for controlling all aspects of the handler and compressor units (and fan). As an electronics designer, I needed this information to complete my wireless performance monitor for my home's A.C. . It will map the efficiency, coolant temps, etc as an indication of declining performance changes BEFORE the compressor eats itself, requiring unnecessary replacement. I will also be buying your book. Based upon your detailed video, I expect the book to provide enough technical information to expand my expertise to do home repairs. Thank you. Great video. As a suggestion, I had to rewind the video a few times at points where message's speed of delivery outpaced my ability to hear and understand it. :-)
Best explanation I've seen, Thanks. I had a new HVAC system installed last year and a honeywell stat that has 4 wire running to it.(no C wire). The system when in A/C mode will set there and run until I turn the stat up, but I have to turn it up 3 or 4 degrees or the temperature reading will jump a degree or 2 to match where I set it to. I know sounds crazy. It will also jump down and match within a degree or 2. SO... first I called honeywell thinking this must be a stat issue. They had me test the voltage readings of the 4 wires running to the stat. The 24v red was fine but one of the wires read lower like 9v and seemed to vary. Honeywell blamed the HVAC system as the problem. So I called the HVAC tech out and after thinking it was the wires running to the stat he checking the voltage readings at the unit with the stat wires removed, he got the same readings ( one circuit was low and varied) eliminating the wires to the stat as the issue. He then said it was an ECM module/motor.He did a warranty replacement of the ECM and said it's fixed. For some reason this issue takes a few hours before it acts up. Then the longer it runs the worse it gets. He finished the warranty repair and said even though the voltage is still low in one circuit the system was working fine, but the next day it did the same thing. I replaced the Honeywell stat again and it does the same thing. I noticed I only have one wire going to the outside unit??? It runs back to the White wire on the inside unit. The other wire that should run outside is hooked up to the Yellow circuit inside and runs to??? in the same harness at the white wire, but never shows up outside. If I unhook the wire not making it outside that is hooked to the Yellow inside wire and then retest voltage at the stat not only does the G wire still show 15.5v but also the Y will now show 15.5 v. Only thing I can think is the return circuit back inside from the outside coil/contactor is being made in the outside unit or through the line set??? This makes no sense.
Thanks for a simple yet informative description and schematic without talking down to us, I was able to figure out my issue thanks to you, and I had an odd problem too, that I was having trouble finding any info on it.... Blower would come on for the furnace only, AC and manual fan would not work. The condenser and fan on the AC unit kicked on but no blower. It's and old house and I thought I had a light green and dark green wire in my set of six wires from thermostat to HVAC unit. It hit me when watching this video that the dark green wire on my system was actually blue and just faded and dirty. It had come loose when putting in a board the other day, and I thought I messed up, but I hooked it back up and all is working great, thanks again!!
Excellent video explaining what the thermostat does to the wires in different settings. I tested my new thermostat on the bench (with a 24V transformer), verify that in heat mode, the W terminal is ON if setTemp > homeTemp and it goes OFF when setTemp
I really enjoyed the book that you offer. I'm hoping that you will come out with a book for gas and oil along with many other things. I would purchase them all. I really appreciate your hard work thank you.
Dylan, I am looking for reviews on Amazon if you could help out with that? I would appreciate it and they allow reviews even if you purchased it through my website. I am working on a workbook for this book and some quick charging and troubleshooting cards presently but would like to move to a EPA 608 review course or furnace book but like I have been saying, this latest book took years to build. I now did that so some of the learning curve is over but it is still a lot of work, thanks Dylan! I do look forward to creating new books in the future, thanks!
This would be great if the HVAC techs who wired the house actually used the red and white for our condenser unit instead of a conglomerate of white green and blue 🥴
Thanks SO MUCH for this video AND the wiring diagram! Saved my ass BIG TIME! I had 1 wire in the wrong connection. Switched it and my 'smart' thermostat is operating my HVAC correctly now! Again, THANKYOU!
Great video that helped why my thermostat doesn’t have power from the furnace. Blue wire is not connected to the furnace power module. I only see five connections and cannot figure where the blue wire goes.
Excellent. Thank you. Saved me an afternoon or full day of trying to troubleshoot. I think you're getting more likes than Donald Trump. Keep em coming.
Good explanations man. Trying to diagnose why my AC system won’t kick on now that I changed to a C wire smart thermostat. Hopefully I can find a vidoe explaining what I did wrong. But outstanding video none the less
Thx for the info. I’m working with an old Lennox and a new thermostat and new Goodman condenser. They guy working on it was so frustrated because we could get the condenser and furnace blower to work and then when the thermostat was satisfied the furnace blower would shut off but not the condenser. He tried moving wires on the furnace 30 times and it’s still doing the same. The Contactor does operate fine he assuredly after I asked if the contactor was frozen closed. He never figured it out. Although I did snap a picture of the wiring block in the furnace and I did see the yellow wire connected to the common..😳. The tstat has a Y but the Lennox furnace block doesn’t have a y. That confused him because he didn’t know what to do with the yellow in the furnace.
U R the man. I was trying to find C wire, if its connected to the main board or not. Cause got 3 extra wires at thermostat but C wire wasn't connected. Found 24.5 V ac on C to R combination.. Thanks. My comment may help others...
Also,im looking for your book right now. This video makes things clear, if I'm willing to follow the wires from the ground thermostat, up into the crawl space between floors and then out to the unit outside. That may be my only hope of finding what's crossed?
I didn't understand why my two condenser wires seemed to be error, Answer: 24v wire doesn't matter what side it is connected to outdoor condenser. Thanks for vital info. I will reverse wires to have correct color code.
You saved my ass, I miss wired one of the outdoor condenser with W from Y and so it only turned on when I had heat on. Going through this gave me the confidence with placing Y from the outdoor condenser to Y/Y2. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I dont have cold ac but my heat works good. I opend up my furnace to look at circuitboard and there is only 3 wires connected, G , W , R ,,, c24v and Y are free with no wires attached. But on thermostat there is G , W ,Y , R, Rc all have wires connected to them. I remember furnace unit was replaced a while back is it possible the person didnt install everything correctly??? Plz and thank you. Ps when i turn cool on nothing happens but outside unit turns on,, while inside unit no activity.🧠🧠🧠🧠🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 i feell like this is why my ac aint kicking out or blower motor
Excellent as always. are there control boards such as on a Carrier 5ton/Nat.Gas Furnance Split residential (Control Board HK42FZ014) that for Cooling Mode do not need the R Connected by the Thermostat to G, and just connected to Y?
I have a Lennox LB-87086A control board. It has W/R/Y/C/G. Ok, so..........these guys who installed it brought it up outta the furnace and then tee'd off the RED and Blue(common) to feed the AC compressor relay contactor. Lol. So i have a White, Red, Blue, and Green wire bundle coming up to the thermostat. The only way to get the AC to work is put the Blue(common) in the "Y" slot of the thermostat! It's frustrating because they didn't just use a 5 wire like they should have and used the Yellow wire and Blue wire to feed the AC contactor outside. Good news is that it does work just fine with my old programmable t-stat and my new Google Nest Thermostat. I imagine the batteries won't last as long though! So to properly fix this i would need to run a 5 wire from the Furnace control board(using ALL 5 wires this time), run that to the thermostat, then extend the contactor wires from the AC compressor and run those into the Control board at the Y and C. Right? I have a working system but i am selling soon and would like to take care of the little things. Thanks and if anyone helps i appreciate it. My In-laws own a huge HVAC company but sadly never seem to want to help or even offer information...........But hey, maybe that's why they're now millionaires hahahaha
I recently installed a blower motor on a Bryant dual fuel system. Works great however a few terminal wires fell out and don't know where they go. I have multiple color wires and my picture I took is blurred and cannot see. Can I send a pic of what I have and hopefully get some guidance
Connecting the thermostat C wire to the wire going out to the condenser as described in the video worked! I have a five wire set up with no C wire, so I supplied the air handler's 24vac power to the thermostat at the C terminal - that was wrong. It needs a return wire instead. Great video!
@acservicetechchannel - Thank you. Do you have a video like this for a system where the furnace is separate from the AC? I'm having issues getting a common wire to not make the thermostat stop working and would love a video like this with a setup where the two units are not in the same box. Thank you.
Good question! First of all, I'm NOT a HVAC tech by any means, but you're right. There is a bit of residual cooling left on the A coil where if air is passed through it after the compressor shuts off, some "free" cooling could be extracted. You may get like a minutes worth before the coil attains ambient temp and starts to evaporate the condensate back into your house. We have a 20 year old Bryant furnace which has a smart control board. When A/C is called for, the compressor will start about 30 seconds before the blower! When thermo is satisfied, the compressor shuts down and blower runs another 2 min or so! Neat, huh? To further reinforce your idea, I once added a delay relay to a large window A/C unit to do just what you asked. Fan ran about 3 min after compressor shut off. My belief was that it would extract a bit more cold, cooled the compressor, while quickly reducing head pressure. Window shaker ran for years without problems!
@@curtchase3730, great I should have got that 20 year old Lenox I saw for $75-- that's sucks. Anyway ours is 37 year old Heil 90+ and maybe you can answer this quick question about it or its diagram. So in the stupid diagram manual, and also on the back of the top front panel cover diagram, is schematic where the combustion normally open relay is actually in parallel with the fan control limit switch, which seems crazy to me. So as you know the older furnaces have the bi-metal fan control switch which turns sending heat and then turns it off after w heat call ends and then it cools of course, so why would the diagrams want to sort that out with a combustion relay in parallel closing makes no sense because then when the heat calls they blower would come on immediately instead of letting the fan or blower control do it. Anyway that's what the diagram says but of course the furnace does not operate like that because the jumper or the wire from the combustion relay is not there of course but why would they list that wire connection in the schematics is what I don't understand. Does that make any sense because I've seen a couple of questions about that in some HVAC forums.
In my case I have only rh and w, I really want fan control though, could I manually wire up a switch near the furnace to connect g to rh/rc without messing anything else up?
Hello, I was wondering if I can connect G wire on the thermostat and furnace to c wire, the thermostat does not have c wire so I’m connected G wire to C wire, the furnace c wire already has existing c wire from out side AC fan, I wanted to know if I can add G wire and C wire on C wire on the furnace.
It’s 88 degrees in nj today. Turned my ac on with room temp at 78 and set temp at 72. 72 now but won’t shut off yet..it eventually shuts off. And if I put temp at 73 it’ll shut off. How can I tell if it’s bad capacitor or bad thermostat sensor for example? freon is good. Air cold out of vents Warm air from top of condenser Beer can cold!
my problems before was my vivint thermostat is on cooling mode and it was blowing heat .so i called out an hvac tech ..he found out the thermostat is bad . so he can't jumped out the control , so i can have cool air .And now i need heat , the heating mode is blowing cool air ..and i cant figure which wire he jumped so that i can put the right place..
I have 7 coloured thermostat wires. The blue is wired to common. I have a terminal named TWIN on the control board. I have the black and brown wires left. Where would those wires go?
Hey I noticed you say the red and white wires from the condenser going to the furnace board don’t matter when connecting to Y and C but mine were installed reverse (white to Y and red to C), I swapped the Honeywell thermostat to the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on 🤔, anything else I might have missed ??
My existing system is Gas Furnace and single AC unit. My existing thermostat has C,G,W,Y and R (no jumper). The new Thermostat has the choice of RC or RH with a jumper. (no R). Question: Which terminal do I place the existing "R" wire to? RC or RH? Do I leave the jumper in or remove?
Hi Love to learn from your knowledge!!! I'm about to replace old r22 outdoor unit COOLING ONLY but owner wants to keep his old gas furnace ! I'm going to replace with 3 ton Goodman heat pump heating and cooling My question here can I connect to old gas furnace new Goodman heat pump? Owner like to have heat pump as a back up, Old gas furnace has control board C G Y W R Please 🙏 let me know? Thank you in advance ☺️
I want to hook up a toggle switch to just run my fan. Does it matter what size of wire to use? Also on a 2 pole toggle switch what pole does the red wire go to? Ty
I have 18/6 running from my furnace to a battery operated thermostat. I'm trying to update to a new thermostat that requires the C Wire but my furnace does not have a C terminal. Is it possible to follow the common from the 24v transformer and piggie back at that terminal then connect that wire to the C on the new thermostat?
The problem I’m having is that a common blue wire was not used on my original thermostat but when I attach that blue wire to the new thermostat it is not providing power. Is this telling me that I need to play around with the R and RC terminals on my new smart thermostat In order to provide power instead of using the C wire?
Have you seen a Switch Mode Power Supply SMPS for 24V DC as opposed to a 24V AC transformer for energy star lower standby watts? Although pretty reliable SMPS still a transformer is bullet proof just uses about 4-5 watts xtra. The average vampire current or standby current in most homes is 50-100 watts, so about $10 month.
Yeah they are nice for saving power but I don't know about lightning strikes or other problems at customers homes. I try to avoid callbacks from occurring whenever possible, thanks!
Why can't you just have r... shouldn't a contact close to y for a cooling call and w for a heating call? Still don't understand the two R terminals..🤔 Also, why does G wire not need jumper?
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Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL
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Y ???
Thankypu gues sheri g
thank you for this, i had to downgrade my thermastat from the honeywell one since the wifi burned up in it and couldnt control it anymore, it also shares ur usage even if u didnt opt in. so i put another old stat in and this really helped as i forgot how it was setup since it doesnt have the full wiring for newer ones.
😊
Got it. Thermostat operation for COOLING it connects R,c to Y and G to
to operate the FAN and the CONTACTOR outside.
For HEAT operation R is connected (inside the thermostat) for heat to the W But no connection to Fan, because with heat the fan is controlled by the control board.
It is possible to have 2 transformers one for heat and one for cooling.
Thank you. 11/19/2023
I looked at your diagram fro 5 seconds and immediately figured out how the last guy wired my whole system wrong. Thank you.
Thank you. I’m an automotive tech but with this wiring diagram and your explanation, I was able to join my furnace and central air from two separate thermostats to one.
Thank you very much for the tutorial. I have been telling my neighbor who bought a new Honeywell RTH2300 thermostate which HAS BATTERYS. I tried telling him you don't need to hook up the blue wire from your furnace to the RTH 2300 thermostat since the thermostat has battery's. I hooked it up this way without the blue wire connected to the RTH 2300 thermostat and BOOM on came the heat. Maybe a gander at this video will convince him.This is the only video I have found that specifically tell's you this about the blue wire and the RTH 2300 Honeywell thermostat. Honeywell done.
Thank God for a comprehensive and informative video. Some of these channels will drive a guy insane with irrelevant filler.
Thank you for saving my butt, again! Viewed your stuff when a power surge burned up my HVAC circuit board last winter. Used it again today when the AC wouldn't cool (because I left a wire off of the new board). This is AWESOME!
Hows that warranty treating ya
Very simple and very detailed explanation! I'm looking to have an AC installed to the existing furnace and now have a better idea how all the components work together.
Great video helper. Now if just installation techs actually used the color coding correctly, the average home DIYer can fix a broken thermostat without frying something. I have seen and know techs that purposely connect by THEIR standard so when YOU try to fix it, BAM something breaks worse requiring you calling them for more money out your pocket. Since they are "certified HVAC" they will be protected from lawsuit being a non HVAC person should not be touching it in the first place. My 30 year old Nordyne system still runs strong today with my maintenance schedule and compressor cleaning system.
Lol or just CZcams how to wire it correctly and you wouldn’t have that problem
That's such a lie and if not it's definitely anecdotal
Compressor cleaning system......
@@ebenezerwheezer4619 I just bought a new house and went to install a new thermostat.
The previous tech left the C from the furnace disconnected, attached the the R from the furnace to the C going to the Thermostat, put a jumper from the C on the thermostat to the R, and wired the float switch between the C on the thermostat and a the red wire going to the condenser.
I'm pretty sure that's how it was. But I know for sure the C from the furnace was unused and the red wire from the furnace was spliced into a blue wire and the condenser had a yellow and a red wire.
So yeah, some of them screw it up their own special way. I guarantee it wasn't a homeowner who did that. The average homeowner isn't going to connect different colored wires to each other for giggles.
Sue for not following industry standards.if the color code isn't right he's incompetent or a scammer either way they deserve it
I don’t know how many times I did watch your videos still I like to watch over and over.
Easy to understand. Only one wire "Y" was connected to my compressor, I assumed the other wire went to "C" video confirmed. Issue Resolved on hot day.
That's the best video explanation of the signal flow for controlling all aspects of the handler and compressor units (and fan). As an electronics designer, I needed this information to complete my wireless performance monitor for my home's A.C. . It will map the efficiency, coolant temps, etc as an indication of declining performance changes BEFORE the compressor eats itself, requiring unnecessary replacement. I will also be buying your book. Based upon your detailed video, I expect the book to provide enough technical information to expand my expertise to do home repairs. Thank you. Great video. As a suggestion, I had to rewind the video a few times at points where message's speed of delivery outpaced my ability to hear and understand it. :-)
Best explanation I've seen, Thanks. I had a new HVAC system installed last year and a honeywell stat that has 4 wire running to it.(no C wire). The system when in A/C mode will set there and run until I turn the stat up, but I have to turn it up 3 or 4 degrees or the temperature reading will jump a degree or 2 to match where I set it to. I know sounds crazy. It will also jump down and match within a degree or 2. SO... first I called honeywell thinking this must be a stat issue. They had me test the voltage readings of the 4 wires running to the stat. The 24v red was fine but one of the wires read lower like 9v and seemed to vary. Honeywell blamed the HVAC system as the problem. So I called the HVAC tech out and after thinking it was the wires running to the stat he checking the voltage readings at the unit with the stat wires removed, he got the same readings ( one circuit was low and varied) eliminating the wires to the stat as the issue. He then said it was an ECM module/motor.He did a warranty replacement of the ECM and said it's fixed. For some reason this issue takes a few hours before it acts up. Then the longer it runs the worse it gets. He finished the warranty repair and said even though the voltage is still low in one circuit the system was working fine, but the next day it did the same thing. I replaced the Honeywell stat again and it does the same thing. I noticed I only have one wire going to the outside unit??? It runs back to the White wire on the inside unit. The other wire that should run outside is hooked up to the Yellow circuit inside and runs to??? in the same harness at the white wire, but never shows up outside. If I unhook the wire not making it outside that is hooked to the Yellow inside wire and then retest voltage at the stat not only does the G wire still show 15.5v but also the Y will now show 15.5 v. Only thing I can think is the return circuit back inside from the outside coil/contactor is being made in the outside unit or through the line set??? This makes no sense.
This prove that I would literally watch anything that youtube recommend
Thanks for a simple yet informative description and schematic without talking down to us, I was able to figure out my issue thanks to you, and I had an odd problem too, that I was having trouble finding any info on it.... Blower would come on for the furnace only, AC and manual fan would not work. The condenser and fan on the AC unit kicked on but no blower. It's and old house and I thought I had a light green and dark green wire in my set of six wires from thermostat to HVAC unit. It hit me when watching this video that the dark green wire on my system was actually blue and just faded and dirty. It had come loose when putting in a board the other day, and I thought I messed up, but I hooked it back up and all is working great, thanks again!!
Excellent video explaining what the thermostat does to the wires in different settings. I tested my new thermostat on the bench (with a 24V transformer), verify that in heat mode, the W terminal is ON if setTemp > homeTemp and it goes OFF when setTemp
2stageis het pump expaningbai
Got my AC working again, after I replaced the thermostat and some wiring. Thank you so much for the helpful video!
Hey I replaced my Honeywell thermostat with the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on , do you have any suggestions 🤔
Thank you. Your video helped me troubleshoot a 24v wire that was shorting to the case ground in my condenser unit. It’s working now!!!
Glad it helped
Thank you. Replaced my blower motor and knocked some wires loose. Your vid helped troubleshoot.
Saved me in a pinch.replaced my furnace over the winter but didn't connect the condenser lines, thanks a bunch
Thanks man I have been home being a dad the last 4 years....I'm going back to work finally Wednesday..I'm a rough in guy. I hope I'm not to rusty.
You got this!
@@acservicetechchannel THANK YOU!!!
Exactly the explanation I was looking for. Thank you. Well done.
I really enjoyed the book that you offer. I'm hoping that you will come out with a book for gas and oil along with many other things. I would purchase them all. I really appreciate your hard work thank you.
Dylan, I am looking for reviews on Amazon if you could help out with that? I would appreciate it and they allow reviews even if you purchased it through my website. I am working on a workbook for this book and some quick charging and troubleshooting cards presently but would like to move to a EPA 608 review course or furnace book but like I have been saying, this latest book took years to build. I now did that so some of the learning curve is over but it is still a lot of work, thanks Dylan! I do look forward to creating new books in the future, thanks!
Exceptional! Thank you for your well-organized explanation!
This would be great if the HVAC techs who wired the house actually used the red and white for our condenser unit instead of a conglomerate of white green and blue 🥴
Just bought a wire toner cuz I confused some wires hooking up a smart thermostat. Hopefully this video will be helpful.
Thanks SO MUCH for this video AND the wiring diagram! Saved my ass BIG TIME! I had 1 wire in the wrong connection. Switched it and my 'smart' thermostat is operating my HVAC correctly now! Again, THANKYOU!
You make life so easy man!! Love it
Great video that helped why my thermostat doesn’t have power from the furnace. Blue wire is not connected to the furnace power module. I only see five connections and cannot figure where the blue wire goes.
Thanks for this, this information probably saved me quite a bit of money today.
Great video finally got my condenser to turn on thanks
Glad it helped
I also just ordered the book from amazon it haven’t came in it but looking for to using it great video very helpful keep up the good work man 👍👍
Thanks a lot Terry and please let me know what you think of the book after reading it!
Thanks I needed this wiring diagram.
Glad I could help
Excellent. Thank you. Saved me an afternoon or full day of trying to troubleshoot. I think you're getting more likes than Donald Trump. Keep em coming.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching 😂
Good explanations man. Trying to diagnose why my AC system won’t kick on now that I changed to a C wire smart thermostat. Hopefully I can find a vidoe explaining what I did wrong. But outstanding video none the less
Hey did you figure this out? I switched to an Amazon thermostat and now the AC won’t turn out smh
@@skine1107 I had to rearrange a wire on the furnace itself. That was 3 years ago tho. I can’t recall what I did sadly.
Thx for the info. I’m working with an old Lennox and a new thermostat and new Goodman condenser. They guy working on it was so frustrated because we could get the condenser and furnace blower to work and then when the thermostat was satisfied the furnace blower would shut off but not the condenser. He tried moving wires on the furnace 30 times and it’s still doing the same. The Contactor does operate fine he assuredly after I asked if the contactor was frozen closed. He never figured it out. Although I did snap a picture of the wiring block in the furnace and I did see the yellow wire connected to the common..😳. The tstat has a Y but the Lennox furnace block doesn’t have a y. That confused him because he didn’t know what to do with the yellow in the furnace.
Simple and easy. Thank you for the explanation!!!
Wonderful explanation. Clear and concise.
Glad it was helpful!
@@acservicetechchannel2 years later I am watching again. reinforcing this lesson.
U R the man. I was trying to find C wire, if its connected to the main board or not. Cause got 3 extra wires at thermostat but C wire wasn't connected. Found 24.5 V ac on C to R combination.. Thanks. My comment may help others...
Great video . Wanted more videos like the add on air cycler and how it works. Tnx
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thank you for let's this info 🙏
I work with Boston standard company but I wanna learn more about the system I'm a electrician 🙏
Muchas gracias su video informacion me ayudo bastante muy bien explicado y detallado de nuevo muchas gracias.
Great video! Thank you!
Thank you for watching, I'm glad you liked it!
Also,im looking for your book right now. This video makes things clear, if I'm willing to follow the wires from the ground thermostat, up into the crawl space between floors and then out to the unit outside. That may be my only hope of finding what's crossed?
I didn't understand why my two condenser wires seemed to be error, Answer: 24v wire doesn't matter what side it is connected to outdoor condenser. Thanks for vital info. I will reverse wires to have correct color code.
Awesome! Good to have a proper explanation. Many thanks!
Thank you for Variable Explanations....👍👍
Can you please do a video on communicating systems? Thanks Craig.
You saved my ass, I miss wired one of the outdoor condenser with W from Y and so it only turned on when I had heat on. Going through this gave me the confidence with placing Y from the outdoor condenser to Y/Y2. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thank you! Great to hear it!
I dont have cold ac but my heat works good. I opend up my furnace to look at circuitboard and there is only 3 wires connected, G , W , R ,,, c24v and Y are free with no wires attached. But on thermostat there is G , W ,Y , R, Rc all have wires connected to them. I remember furnace unit was replaced a while back is it possible the person didnt install everything correctly??? Plz and thank you. Ps when i turn cool on nothing happens but outside unit turns on,, while inside unit no activity.🧠🧠🧠🧠🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 i feell like this is why my ac aint kicking out or blower motor
Very Good. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you.this video was the greatest.
Excellent as always. are there control boards such as on a Carrier 5ton/Nat.Gas Furnance Split residential (Control Board HK42FZ014) that for Cooling Mode do not need the R Connected by the Thermostat to G, and just connected to Y?
If you have the means. Do some heat pumps. Too many techs don't understand this simple machine.
Hey Big Nasty, Did you look up "acservicetech Heat Pump Wiring or heat pump refrigeration cycle" ? thanks!
got me out of a jam.Thanks!
Thanks so much Brian!
Great video very informative and to the point thank you very much 👍
I'm learning :)
I have a Lennox LB-87086A control board. It has W/R/Y/C/G. Ok, so..........these guys who installed it brought it up outta the furnace and then tee'd off the RED and Blue(common) to feed the AC compressor relay contactor. Lol. So i have a White, Red, Blue, and Green wire bundle coming up to the thermostat. The only way to get the AC to work is put the Blue(common) in the "Y" slot of the thermostat! It's frustrating because they didn't just use a 5 wire like they should have and used the Yellow wire and Blue wire to feed the AC contactor outside.
Good news is that it does work just fine with my old programmable t-stat and my new Google Nest Thermostat. I imagine the batteries won't last as long though!
So to properly fix this i would need to run a 5 wire from the Furnace control board(using ALL 5 wires this time), run that to the thermostat, then extend the contactor wires from the AC compressor and run those into the Control board at the Y and C. Right? I have a working system but i am selling soon and would like to take care of the little things.
Thanks and if anyone helps i appreciate it. My In-laws own a huge HVAC company but sadly never seem to want to help or even offer information...........But hey, maybe that's why they're now millionaires hahahaha
Super healthy explanation!
Great job and video
Glad you enjoyed it
I recently installed a blower motor on a Bryant dual fuel system. Works great however a few terminal wires fell out and don't know where they go. I have multiple color wires and my picture I took is blurred and cannot see. Can I send a pic of what I have and hopefully get some guidance
Very helpful . Thank you for sharing
Great video.Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
LIFE SAVER!!!!
Glad it was helpful
Thanks for your tech tips!, awesome!!
Glad it was helpful!
good report
Great video very explanatory
Thank you for your support
Thanks, this helped me a lot!
Good explanation, did my troubleshooting in my unit with this video, thanks 🙂🙂🙂
Glad it helped
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you sir very sample video and thank again
Glad to help!
Connecting the thermostat C wire to the wire going out to the condenser as described in the video worked!
I have a five wire set up with no C wire, so I supplied the air handler's 24vac power to the thermostat at the C terminal - that was wrong. It needs a return wire instead. Great video!
@acservicetechchannel - Thank you. Do you have a video like this for a system where the furnace is separate from the AC? I'm having issues getting a common wire to not make the thermostat stop working and would love a video like this with a setup where the two units are not in the same box. Thank you.
Why not have a cooling G delay after compressor shuts off to extract more cooling just like heat does when combustion shuts off?
Good question! First of all, I'm NOT a HVAC tech by any means, but you're right. There is a bit of residual cooling left on the A coil where if air is passed through it after the compressor shuts off, some "free" cooling could be extracted. You may get like a minutes worth before the coil attains ambient temp and starts to evaporate the condensate back into your house. We have a 20 year old Bryant furnace which has a smart control board. When A/C is called for, the compressor will start about 30 seconds before the blower! When thermo is satisfied, the compressor shuts down and blower runs another 2 min or so! Neat, huh? To further reinforce your idea, I once added a delay relay to a large window A/C unit to do just what you asked. Fan ran about 3 min after compressor shut off. My belief was that it would extract a bit more cold, cooled the compressor, while quickly reducing head pressure. Window shaker ran for years without problems!
@@curtchase3730, great I should have got that 20 year old Lenox I saw for $75-- that's sucks. Anyway ours is 37 year old Heil 90+ and maybe you can answer this quick question about it or its diagram. So in the stupid diagram manual, and also on the back of the top front panel cover diagram, is schematic where the combustion normally open relay is actually in parallel with the fan control limit switch, which seems crazy to me. So as you know the older furnaces have the bi-metal fan control switch which turns sending heat and then turns it off after w heat call ends and then it cools of course, so why would the diagrams want to sort that out with a combustion relay in parallel closing makes no sense because then when the heat calls they blower would come on immediately instead of letting the fan or blower control do it. Anyway that's what the diagram says but of course the furnace does not operate like that because the jumper or the wire from the combustion relay is not there of course but why would they list that wire connection in the schematics is what I don't understand. Does that make any sense because I've seen a couple of questions about that in some HVAC forums.
In my case I have only rh and w, I really want fan control though, could I manually wire up a switch near the furnace to connect g to rh/rc without messing anything else up?
Very well done......Thank you
Thanks. Very informative!
Informative, thank you.
Hello, I was wondering if I can connect G wire on the thermostat and furnace to c wire, the thermostat does not have c wire so I’m connected G wire to C wire, the furnace c wire already has existing c wire from out side AC fan, I wanted to know if I can add G wire and C wire on C wire on the furnace.
It’s 88 degrees in nj today. Turned my ac on with room temp at 78 and set temp at 72. 72 now but won’t shut off yet..it eventually shuts off. And if I put temp at 73 it’ll shut off. How can I tell if it’s bad capacitor or bad thermostat sensor for example?
freon is good.
Air cold out of vents
Warm air from top of condenser
Beer can cold!
So clear. 👍
So the control baord is what sends power to the thermostat?
my problems before was my vivint thermostat is on cooling mode and it was blowing heat .so i called out an hvac tech ..he found out the thermostat is bad . so he can't jumped out the control , so i can have cool air .And now i need heat , the heating mode is blowing cool air ..and i cant figure which wire he jumped so that i can put the right place..
I love it ❤
What might be happening if I only get 12v on the Y+C going out to the condenser?
I have 7 coloured thermostat wires. The blue is wired to common. I have a terminal named TWIN on the control board. I have the black and brown wires left. Where would those wires go?
Hey I noticed you say the red and white wires from the condenser going to the furnace board don’t matter when connecting to Y and C but mine were installed reverse (white to Y and red to C), I swapped the Honeywell thermostat to the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on 🤔, anything else I might have missed ??
My existing system is Gas Furnace and single AC unit. My existing thermostat has C,G,W,Y and R (no jumper). The new Thermostat has the choice of RC or RH with a jumper. (no R). Question: Which terminal do I place the existing "R" wire to? RC or RH? Do I leave the jumper in or remove?
Hi
Love to learn from your knowledge!!!
I'm about to replace old r22 outdoor unit COOLING ONLY
but owner wants to keep his old gas furnace !
I'm going to replace with 3 ton Goodman heat pump heating and cooling
My question here can I connect to old gas furnace new Goodman heat pump? Owner like to have heat pump as a back up, Old gas furnace has control board C G Y W R
Please 🙏 let me know?
Thank you in advance ☺️
could you make a video on wiring for the Honeywell R8184m furnace control board can't find a reliable source anywhere
Jason, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
I want to hook up a toggle switch to just run my fan. Does it matter what size of wire to use? Also on a 2 pole toggle switch what pole does the red wire go to? Ty
I have 18/6 running from my furnace to a battery operated thermostat. I'm trying to update to a new thermostat that requires the C Wire but my furnace does not have a C terminal. Is it possible to follow the common from the 24v transformer and piggie back at that terminal then connect that wire to the C on the new thermostat?
My AC & fan never stops running. I have to put it on heat which doesn't do much from keeping the freezing of the ac. Any suggestions?
Should the condenser outside kick on when using the heater??
If I have a R and a RC wire can I use one (the RC) in the C spot and run a jumper from R to RC?
Thank you, excellent video and explanation 👍🏼
Thanks Marlon!
The problem I’m having is that a common blue wire was not used on my original thermostat but when I attach that blue wire to the new thermostat it is not providing power. Is this telling me that I need to play around with the R and RC terminals on my new smart thermostat In order to provide power instead of using the C wire?
Have you seen a Switch Mode Power Supply SMPS for 24V DC as opposed to a 24V AC transformer for energy star lower standby watts? Although pretty reliable SMPS still a transformer is bullet proof just uses about 4-5 watts xtra. The average vampire current or standby current in most homes is 50-100 watts, so about $10 month.
Yeah they are nice for saving power but I don't know about lightning strikes or other problems at customers homes. I try to avoid callbacks from occurring whenever possible, thanks!
Why can't you just have r... shouldn't a contact close to y for a cooling call and w for a heating call? Still don't understand the two R terminals..🤔 Also, why does G wire not need jumper?
Thank you very much for your video. Question: Would a Sequencer relate to cooling system?