I liked the part where it didn't fire up the first time. "Easy" fixes like these can sometimes turn out to be quite troublesome in reality. That's the fun part of it though, especially when you're the one just watching it on CZcams. Thanks for the entertaining content !
I replaced the pigtail power cord on my Juno-106 with an IEC socket installed on the rear panel. Interestingly, the Juno-106 had a small removable cover that was exactly the size of the IEC socket, so I didn't need to drill any holes- I simply screwed the socket in place. Is there no such possibility for the SY?
Hi @midimoog Thanks for the feedback. Yes the failure to fire up was a little bit of a school boy error 🤪. But in this instance it was an easy enough fix. My ethos is that I will only drill the case if there is no way to solve the problem as I don’t want to devalue the synth visually. In the case of the Yamaha SY77 and future Yamaha SY99 and Yamaha DX7 modifications it is better to actually change the cable as I did in this video. No cutting the synthesiser chassis. In the case of the Yamaha KX88 (future project) that has a 2 pin C9/C10 connection that can be easily modified to a C13/C14 connection. Similar to the modification that you describe on the Roland Juno-106. Just a bit of insight into my thinking process. Last resort - cut synthesiser case. Jon
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I liked the part where it didn't fire up the first time. "Easy" fixes like these can sometimes turn out to be quite troublesome in reality. That's the fun part of it though, especially when you're the one just watching it on CZcams. Thanks for the entertaining content !
Hi @midimoog Please see response to other comment. Jon
I replaced the pigtail power cord on my Juno-106 with an IEC socket installed on the rear panel. Interestingly, the Juno-106 had a small removable cover that was exactly the size of the IEC socket, so I didn't need to drill any holes- I simply screwed the socket in place. Is there no such possibility for the SY?
Hi @midimoog
Thanks for the feedback. Yes the failure to fire up was a little bit of a school boy error 🤪. But in this instance it was an easy enough fix.
My ethos is that I will only drill the case if there is no way to solve the problem as I don’t want to devalue the synth visually. In the case of the Yamaha SY77 and future Yamaha SY99 and Yamaha DX7 modifications it is better to actually change the cable as I did in this video. No cutting the synthesiser chassis.
In the case of the Yamaha KX88 (future project) that has a 2 pin C9/C10 connection that can be easily modified to a C13/C14 connection. Similar to the modification that you describe on the Roland Juno-106.
Just a bit of insight into my thinking process. Last resort - cut synthesiser case. Jon