Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3
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- čas přidán 16. 01. 2019
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
Updated Timing belt video for the Toyota 4.7 V8. This is the final video in the series on water pump and belt assembly.
For a list of parts and tools used in this video see our website.
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this is the best timing belt video on the 2uzfe. good mechanic.
Honestly, I have watched many Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt videos on CZcams and in my opinion so far yours is the best! Thank you sooooo much for posting!
I can't thank you enough for these videos. I followed your steps. Here's the kicker. My wife blew her timing belt going threw Sacramento. Got it towed back to Carson City, and was gonna put a new engine in it. But the clowns we bought it off of lost the engine. Then the runaround...any decided to just go for it and put in the timing belt and hope the engine is not toast. Got all together and it purrs like a contented kitten.
Awesome, glad it worked out!!!
Dint bend the valves? I just buy a 06 tundra that broke the timing bell
You’re an absolute gem, thank you for this video and all the other land cruiser ones sir! Just replaced timing belt, water pump, fan bracket, tensioner, etc on my 2000 4.7L Land Cruiser with 360k+ miles, very good feeling!
I've got a 2000 as well. It has 262k on it, and I consider it young. Just did my front wheel bearings, and am gathering parts and confidence to do the timing belt and water pump. The video here is very well done. An asset to the LC community for sure.
I followed his instructions and changed my timing belt,lower seal,fan bracket,new water hoses ,water pump and new serpentine belt and new thermostat and antifreeze came out successful and want to thank him for such great instructions. My truck runs so much better for it.
1st and 3rd segments were so incredibly helpful! I really liked seeing the process with the engine out, I feel it made it easier to follow along and lucky for all of us there really is plenty of room to work in these engine bays. Thank you!
Just finished the job with your series , now I know why stealers (dealer) wanted over 2,000 dls for the work. Timing belt seals tensioner water pump ,coolant ,radiator replacement . Hell ! yo covered it all ! you have the best instructional series . Thank you !
I bought a 2001 Sequoia 4.7L one year ago. I have taken several long hard pulling trips on it and it has been the best tow vehicle I have ever had. I am proud of it and have wanted to make sure it is in the best running condition. I am almost certain that the timing belt and water pump have never been replaced. It has 173,000 miles on it. after watching your videos I am totally impressed with the confidence you have given me to do it myself. Dude, your video presentations is awesome!!! I have just subscribed. you're the best. I am now looking to service the transmission and all of the running gear.
Sweet, glad the videos were inspiring. It's not a bad job, just take your time and label bolts.
@@OTRAMM do you think it is a good idea that I replace the cam shafts and crank shaft seals when I replace the timing belt? what do I look for to tell whether or not the seals are bad?
Thx for the video, watching this gives me a greater appreciation for the simplicity of much older trucks that have timing chains or gears and water pumps that are a snap to replace.
This was such a great video! Sometimes you wonder why things cost so much, and after watching this I totally understand. Great job!
I just changed my timing belt and water pump, I followed both the engine in and out of the car, so fars everything’s running good and no leaks. Thanks again for the videos
Nice demo with the engine out and focusing on installing the belt properly. I'll be wrapping up this procedure tomorrow afternoon on my 99. In my haste yesterday, I snapped the long cam sensor bolt off and had to run a helicoil in there- that will teach me, and will never happen again! Glad I was able to review this tonight in prep for completion tomorrow.Thanks, and great timing on getting this out today !
I've broken one myself and treat them with care. We see a bunch come through broken from the last belt and glued in!
Good job on the video. Thanks. I start belt replacement and water pump on my 2005 Tundra using this. I already made disassembly procedure notes and reassembly procedure notes. Watch a couple more times and I'll be real familiar.
By far one of the best videos I've seen great demeanor good detail proper installation I mean just good work man good work I subscribed and I liked and I will be going back to watch your other videos. Thanks
Great clarification on the timing marks between crank and cams! Every other bit of info I got was very cloudy. Nice job!
I done mine using your 1st and last video as guide mine is running smoothly with new water pump and timing belt I done it myself thanks brother
Thank you for this video it’s by far best method of timing I’ve found have watched tons of them on this very same motor Thank You!
Thanks for your videos. Helped me see stuff differently when I did my TB and WP.
Thanks dude best all around 4.7 timing belt video on the tube. Great job
You are the man! This was extremely helpful and helped me successfully change my water pump and timing belt. 👊🙌
Excellent videos, very clear explained. Did my 2006 sequoia timing belt with all the information on all 3 videos. Thanks!
Great video! Saved me a ton of time and grief doing this for the first time on my 03 4Runner.
Your videos are so well done. Thank you and keep up the good work! Looking forward to more of your videos.
Love the “Fancy Big Wrench “ at 13:00 and the process you use to use the the springs in the head to tension the installation of the TB. Worth a tip in the Patreon jar.
IMPRESSIVE AS ALWAYS; I BOUGHT THE TOOLS FROM AMAZON, I WILL E-MAIL COPY OF MY RECIPTS THANK YOU SIR.
Thank you, Thank you. Your the Man. Watched all three videos 3x
Best, most thorough vid on this. Thank you!
That was the best tutorial of how to do it! Excellent! Thanks!
Good video nice to watch someone do it right appreciate all your videos
You have some awesome videos, with great information. Pretty cool to be able to watch an expert do their work. If you’re having issues with the camera focusing on something, it’s usually because when there are a lot things in the background with a lot of contrast (like the engine) then the camera is going to want to focus on that. If you stand right in front of the camera holding what you want to show that should help.
Keep up these awesome videos, this is going to be the go channel for anything Land Cruiser related.
Thanks for the focus tip. I'm still learning the settings and how the new camera acts.
Great video… followed along to reinstall and torque everything to spec
Thanks for videoing and posting the process. While I don't have your experience, I do have a couple of tips for the do-it-yourselfers that I've learned the hard way, and would like to pass along.
-A piece of thin plywood cut to fit sort of between the fan shroud and radiator while your pulling the fan assembly saves the fins on the radiator.
-Also, break the fan clutch nuts loose in the manner demonstrated, but leave them on their studs until they're all broken loose so that you don't mess up the threads on the studs.
- I can't remember if there are one, or two rubber hoses that attach to the engine oil cooler assembly, but I remember having to replace one while the engine was assembled. The top hose clamp was
almost impossible to access, so while you've got things out of the way, I would recommend replacing the lines going to the oil cooler. That's the cannister looking thing that the filter is mounted to.
-This is also a great time to clean the throttle body. Access is easy and things are already disconnected. Remove it and do a thorough clean up.
Also, I think reference was made to this already in the video, go ahead and pay a little extra for genuine Toyota parts. They fit better and last longer. These are 300,000 mile plus engines if taken care of, treat 'em nice!
Thanks for sharing your tips!
Awesome video! This helps a lot. Although either I should have watched all the way through or you should have cut out the bit about not putting the water pump in first 🤣
Excellent work! Thank you!
Agreed your video is the best
You are the absolute best! I'm going to attempt to try and change my timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes! I have some confidence now thanks to your amazing videos! I have no idea what morons are downvoting your videos, probably fellow mechanics who don't want to lose business! lol.
Good luck! It's not a bad job just take your time.
Dude, i can not thank you enough for your fantastic videos. I have to try and fix things my self because i cannot afford to pay to have it done. With the help of your videos i was able to get it all done for a fraction of the cost of paying a dealer. Thank you so much!!!
Awesome, glad they were useful!!!
Excellent video! Thank you so much.
Super informative and really helpful.
I Love the 80 in the Background
Great video, thanks!
This video is so underrated
13:24
Thank you for putting up with the Camera!
Much awesome info here.
Brad, thank you so much for such a great job on this video with the details, lighting , torque values, explanations, etc. I am just in the process of receiving all of the parts and tools that you noted, in order to do the T Belt / water pump R & R on my 03 Lexus GX470. But with so many different videos, and so many comments stating to use the "I" marks on the cams or the "T" marks on the cam, TDC, 50 degrees before TDC, or after TDC on the crank, can you please tell me if this video, the way you lined up all the marks on the cams and crank, will this apply directly to the 4.7 L engine in the 2003 Lexus GX470 as well? This is the non-VVT engine, if that makes any difference.
Thank you so much for making these videos. Just finished changing out the timing belt and water pump on my 2004 4Runner. Your series of videos was invaluable and made the job simple to complete.
Great video man!!!
Great video TY
What is the biggest thing on doing a timing belt in your mind ,would it be gettintg the rotation to the neutral/safe spot and lining up new belt marks with all pullies?
So after your rotation to take belt off in a neutral /safe position you leave it alone until you do puppies and water pump ,then installation you just use you new belt marks and align them to the crank marks and cam marks ,then when you turn everything a couple time it should line back up at *TDC?
Awesome! Thanks.
This video gives me the confidence to proceed with the timing belt replacement, and if everything goes to plan then it would almost be fun to do, but there's always those "complications" that trained mechanics have the ability to easily sort out but that shadetree mechanics end up spending an extra day and a few visits to the auto parts store to finally solve . . . Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained! Thanks.
I've got the raisin instructions that come with the kit and it says after I find TDC which is the pin on right for 05to09 then to rotate50°counterclockwise until notch on sprocket is approximately 12oclock ,I'm just wondering tough after I do that how far my cam marks will move and if I'm still gonna be in that neutral /safe position when removing belt,then do I reapply belt as marked aligning belt arms with notches in crank and cams?is it that easy really
Thanks!
Do you know if there is a mark on oil housing for the appropriate spot for the BTDC and do I reinstall the timing belt from that point just lininig up my mark s correctly or what Chilton says to spin crank back to TDC I think it jumps around to much to understand it the Chilton Manuel that is
Thank you, and I much appreciate your explicit instruction videos on the timing belt replacement. It was my first time replacing a timing belt on my 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I followed your part 1 on removing parts, then part #3, putting parts back and torque specs.
I would like to thank this CZcams content creator ( czcams.com/video/M5qzZZO_SE8/video.html ) for tips on aligning the timing belt top pulleys to the "T" after the top dead center and then removing the old timing belt; I ignored the Toyota's manual's confusing instruction on rotating the crank 50 degrees after top dead center. The top timing pulleys did not jerk.
And also, thanks to this CZcams content creator (czcams.com/video/9M3hFSiKs_U/video.html ) for removing the other parts before following your part 1 video. For anyone curious, my sequoia top pulleys did not look like those in the video. Mine have covers.
It was a miracle. It was the first time my 2005 Toyota Sequoia ever got the timing belt replaced after 105k miles and 17 years. I followed the advice of a DIY mechanic who told me not to replace it before 100k. The factory timing belt still appeared to me it was in good condition. Please do not do what I did; follow the manufacturer suggested maintenance schedules.
Is this timing belt kit on Amazon for a 2ufze or whatever that is
Great video. Can you tell me what tool you would use to move the cams on a VVti engine in 2005-06 Tundra? I don't think the tool you show at 13:40 will fit. Thanks.
I've got a blue point timing belt wrench. It adjusts to grab the teeth on the gears. Unfortunately the part number is worn off 😂
You are the greatest in video mechanic teaching ! THANKS A TON!!!!
Great video. I followed it step by step on my 2000 LC. Thanks for the details, especially the torque specs. After completing the project (Water pump, timing belt, tensioners etc.), my heater is not working properly. Fan motor blows, but air is not consistently hot. Been looking for a fix, but don't have one yet. Any advice? Thanks in advance
You've probably got an air pocket in the heater. Sometimes it takes a few times burping the coolant with the heater on to get the air out.
Is there anything special with a vvti system? You just do the timing belt procedure per year correct,,Do the cam phasers on the cams need any special attention other than seals if they need them
I changed my timing belt on 06 tundra. I swapped out the belt on the same tdc marks and went to start it and it just cranked but didn’t fire up. I took everything thing off to see if the cams and crank were in their proper positions and they weren’t. How can I redo this job and get it timed properly?
If my crank seal is not leaking should I go through the effort to get the old one out and replace it my vehicle has 256 thousand miles on it. I worry about trying to get the old one out and a new one in....I'm thinking to leave well enough alone. would love to hear a response as soon as possible
Good info. Thank you. Question: I'm currently working on a 2003 Tundra 4.7 with tow package. Do you have a video on how to remove and replace the 140 amp fusible link? It is number 34 in the engine bay fuse box. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I haven't run in to messing with anything in the fuse box.
Love this channel but I want to ask a question recently I found that emissions code such as the canister vent valve or etc. Being bad can cause the Trac control,slip and engine light to come on supposed ly it's a fail safe for my 4.7 4 runner 2006 ,just wanted to know if that is the case and also if I wanted to do a zero point calibration on a 2006 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 4.7 trough my obd2 connector what pins are cg and ts so I can use the paper clip trick .I've heard several things but can't confirm either one .Thanks for all of your online videos I love them.
Yep emmissions codes will trip the engine, vsc, and trac lights. As far as pinning on the zero point, I'm not sure. I always do it with the scan tool.
Great video. What kind of torque wrench are you using in this video. Thanks.
I think both of them are snap on digitals.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to do it. I'm due for my 2nd timing belt soon on my 07 LX. I feel confident to do this myself. What is the typical life span of Alternator, Power steering pump and AC compressor ? Would it make sense to replace it all as part of 200k service or should I leave it alone if they are working?
I'd leave them alone if they're working. Of the three we do alternators most often. But even those we don't do many of.
Excellent video thank you. Could you explain how to use the “T” marks up on the cams versus the straight line timing mark up n the cams? The are about 10mm apart . Can you damage the valves while manually rotating the cams?
I don't know what the t marks are for. They aren't mentioned in the manual. Theoretically if you pull the belt at the correct position you should be fairly safe for the inevitable cam rotation. I wouldn't force anything though.
Thank you for the reply. I came for the 4.7 engine info and now I want a 100 series land cruiser haha. I have a 2005 sequoia limited that has been SO amazing since 2005. The 2uz v8 is an unbelievably reliable and awesome engine . One of Toyota’s best ever engines
What is the crankshaft mark, past the dimple, that looks like a window (4 small squares). Where your crankshaft is sitting it looks like it would be closer to the window mark than dimple. Having key stone on dimple only allows 3 of the 5 belt dots to fully seated on sprocket
Does it actually matter which way you go with the timing belt do you follow the arrows or no
Hey I have a question if you don’t mind. My 00’ es300 1mzfe I did the timing belt kit on (aisin) cam/crank seals everything. Afterwards it seemed to be bogging down at low speeds and I could swear it was not driving like that prior but otherwise runs great. My question is about checking the timing. Yes it was an aisin kit but the belt itself wasn’t Toyota so the marks were different the cam marks lined up and crank was at tdc but only difference was the other mark on right on crank didn’t line up with the dimple. Would I start with it at tdc and make sure the cam marks line up or crank it twice or what should I do? Thanks
If the timing marks on the engine don;t line up you've got an issue. You'll have to reset the belt. I've not seen an Aisin kit with a mismarked belt. Are you sure you installed it in the correct order and right way round? Sometimes the cams move while the belt is off and need to be re positioned. You need to go back and set the belt so that all the timing marks line up and then turn the engine over a few times to make sure they continue to line up (the engine timing marks, the belt will only line up at the initial set up.)
One question are all raisin kits for 4.7 4 runner Sr5 the same ,what I'm asking is if I ordered the kit you show from Amazon will it be the exact fit for my 2006 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 4.7 with vvti system(not snuff or too many teeth in this type of belt)?
As far as I know all of the 4.7 engines use the same kit.
Why don't you have the crankshaft keyway lined up with the dimple? It looks like you have it closer to the "window" mark, (4 squares making 1 square). Would you line it up to that "window" mark, which is past the dimple on crankshaft. when you have the cams set, past TDC (I) to the (T) timing belt service? So dimple on crankshaft and cam to TDC vertical line the same as cams on T and crank on window. Would this be right or wrong
as regards the crank bolt being torqued my torque wrench only tightens to 150 so was wondering what fraction of a clockwise turn would be a good estimation to get it to the required 181?
I have no idea. You'll need a bigger torque wrench to do it correctly.
What is the sealer called in the green tubing you mention for the water pump outlet called?
It's Toyota FIPG for the super long life coolant.
Thoughts on the cheap Aisin Timing belt and waterpump kit on Amazon? Ive heard that this is basically what is supplied to Toyota?
We use the Aisin belt kits all the time. They're quality Japanese parts. There's a link to them on our website along with the other bits we regularly use. Amazon gives us a cut when you click through our link.
Hey OTRAMM i wasnt thinking about it and used a smidge of dielectric grease on my o rings i know its a silicone based lube, do you think this will ruin my o rings ?
I've used silicone on them with no issue.
How do you move your cam if you need to with those can phasers on the cams?VVTi!!
Easiest way is with a camshaft wrench.
I have a 2004 Sequoia and waiting for my mechanic to get back to me on a quote for this work. What terrifies me the most about this is that one mistake can have devastating consequences, on one hand I'm thinking it's something I can do but on the other I'm having doubts because I know I'll encounter difficulties. If the quote comes back at over $1000 I will seriously think about doing it myself. People relay stories about the cams moving or whatever and bending from hitting the pistons etc. One thing that is tempting me to have a go myself is with the money saved I could buy an impact wrench and other tools as well as building up the knowledge to tackle the job in the future, this and getting a great deal of personal satisfaction, but again I'm worried about f***ing it up!
It's not a bad job just a lot of steps. Take your time and pay attention to the steps and where fasteners came from and it's just a series of small steps.
OTRAMM thanks for your belief in me but I’m pretty useless mechanically, you guys make it look easy!
@@OTRAMM waiting for the 2 quotes for the timing belt work on my 04 Sequoia, I know the total cost will vary depending on labor rate but what would you consider a reasonable time frame for completing the work? My guess is around 6 hours?
If you don't mind me asking are you looking at a Haynes Manuel or a print out from all data or what
Factory service manual.
Does it actually matter which way the belt goes on the timing belt what do you have to follow the arrows
Can you tell me why these specific 4 runners 2003 trough 2009 rotate counterclockwise per te Haynes and Chilton Manuela please
It's for valve to piston clearance.
Hey so I didn’t hear you mention or notice you use any blue locktite (and actually I think I saw one guy put red thread sealer on the crank bolt 😳). Does the Toyota manual not call for any on any of those nuts/bolts/studs? Thanks for the videos!
Correct, they don't call for loctite on the crank bolt.
Studying forum posts, shop manuals and videos in preparation for replacing timing belt and water pump on my SC430 motor. It was very helpful to see how to install the timing belt itself with the engine out of the vehicle. Are torque specs based on bolt/nut dimensions or coming from a shop manual? Thanks for putting video together!
Torque specs are based off the factory manual. I think it was a 99 model year.
@Doctor MENGELE foot pounds
Just curious but I've got a guy tell ING me that I need to use the T for removal and replacement because Toyota headquarters uses it but I'm iffy because mine spins counterclockwise and I don't know where they will line up at from that point
You need to read either the Toyota manual or Aisin instructions for your model.
Hey, I have one question on the "T" marks on the Lft and Rt cams. What is there function:? My Haynes manual specifies using during timing belt removal/installation.
My guess is that they correspond to the belt when it's rolled forward 50 degrees. They seem to line up there. The factory manual doesn't mention them though.
The 50 degree mark. When you turn the crank to 50 degrees with the timing belt still on, that's when the line between tensioner pulley bolt and crank bolt are aligned with crank pulley / harmonic balancer mark. When the crank pulley is positioned at 50 degrees, it ensures that all the pistons are down enough to not be able to be touched/hit by the valves when the camshaft spins on its own accidentally. With the timing belt OFF of the cam pulleys, the cam shafts have a tendency or could spin forwards or backwards if you positioned them slightly past TDC or past 50 degree mark using just the cam pulley bolt head. NEVER use the cam pulley bolt, I know, it is tempting and sometimes even - no harm no foul. Until the camshaft bolt comes loose from turning it counter-clockwise?
That's why it is important to get and use a cam pulley holder tool. I made mine from two pieces of angle iron and three 8mm diameter bolts. You'll need to spin them clockwise to align to the proper cam timing mark. Does what I wrote make sense?
I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra with the same exact engine. Could you please tell me the part number for the o-ring that is placed on the coolant pipe before you install the water pump. Mine is leaking and I’m going to get to it via taking off the intake manifold so I can access that pipe. A little easier to access that way. I just need a number so I can order that part. Thanks
That o-ring comes as part of the Aisin kit we use. I've never ordered it separately. I'd just call your local dealer for it. They'll be the best bet for looking up the correct one.
I'm a retired diyer. Thinki g of getting a lexus gx470,gx460 or a sequoia 2003 to 06 . Which is easier to work on?
I haven't done a 460 yet but everything else on your list is pretty similar
In the case this is done with the motor in the truck, can the crank be turned to orientate the cams with the trans in neutral? Thanks for the great video!!
You can turn it in park no problem. You just can't turn the motor once the belt is off.
@OTRAMM No kidding?! Excellent to know! Thanks so much for the info brother😁 Keep up the good work
Hey, Ryan. I'm replacing my fan bracket tomorrow because the Idler pulley bolt wouldn't torque to spec (a problem I see you had on this fan bracket). What was the cause on this engine? The threads inside the female receiver on my fan bracket are almost completely stripped out. I wonder if it is just a poor quality part :/
The one that stripped for us was a crappy chinese knockoff the previous shop used. Replaced with an Aisin and all was well.
@@OTRAMM Just used this video to do a timing belt replacement on a 1999 LX470. As an update to my previous comment, the same exact thing caused mine to fail torque spec. It was a cheap aftermarket fan bracket as well as cheap aftermarket TB, WP (leaking), and idler pulleys for the TB. The pulley exploded and wrecked the belt. Replaced with all OEM and AISIN parts. What a nightmare.
Muy buen trabajo hogala estubieras en miami para que hicieras hese cambio
Need help: can someone tell me the position of the crank before removing the harmonic balancer (before TDC, TDC OR 50 DEGREES BEYOND TDC). I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra with 4.7 L, V8. I need to replace the water pump and timing belt and manual I purchased does not go into that. I greatly appreciate the help.
I also have an 04 tundra and just got done replacing my timing belt. Position the crank 50 degrees beyond TDC, where the timing mark on the crank lines up with the silver "dot" just before lining up center with the idler pulley bolt. This should position your crank sprocket timing marks with the "T" above the cam sprocket sprockets. Doing this will keep your sprockets from "jumping" once you begin removing the hydraulic tensioner and your timing belt.
When I originally positioned my crank timing mark to center with the idler pulley bolt like in this video, my left cam sprocket jumped 30-40 degrees clockwise and each time I would try to line up the crank sprocket timing mark to where it originally was (just a little past the T mark), it would want to keep jumping counter clockwise. Make it easier on yourself and line up the crank timing mark with the silver/white dot and not the center of the idler pulley bolt like the way the Tundra FSM directed.
Hi, what tool do I have to use to turn the camshaft gear/actuator counter clockwise to line up the camshaft mark to the belt mark on an 06 Land Cruiser? The passenger side cam gear mark and belt mark is lined up. However the driver side isn’t and I can’t turn it by hand. The cam gear on a non-VVTi engine is different from a VVTi so I’m not sure if the SST to turn the cam gear here on your video will work for my engine. Will appreciate your input, thank you in advance.
We use a universal timing sprocket wrench I got from snap on. I'm sure there are cheaper options though.
@@OTRAMM okay will try to look that up on amazon, thanks again.
This is the *BEST* video series out there on this. I do have a question I could use some help with if you would be so kind as to assist.
2002 Sequoia-
When I torque the timing belt tension pulley to 25 ft lb it no longer pivots freely. I noticed this after I pulled the tensioner pin and it didn't push the pulley up to take the slack out of the belt.When I backed out the hex nut the pin did release and apply tension, but I'm pretty sure re-torquing is locking the pulley in place so it doesn't pivot.
I used the exact same bolt and washer from the old tensioner pulley. It is a brand new pulley and tension pin (Aisin TKT-021 kit), I used 3 different torque wrenches to make sure I wasn't over tightening it, and I made sure the thick washer was in place between the block/pulley.
I am afraid it is not safe to leave as is and the tensioner won't remove the slack if/when the belt stretches down the road.
What did I do wrong?
(Thank you)
That's strange. With the same bolt and washer and the washer next to the block I don't know what would make it lock up. Maybe some grit stuck between parts? Have you measured the thickness of the new tenioner compared to the old one? I've never seen an Aisin part machined wrong but it's possible. Does the bolt spin freely in the bore when everything is loose?
@@OTRAMM Unfortunately I only eyeballed it before installing and did not spec/measure, however the bolt *did* spin freely before torquing.
I am guessing your hunch is correct, that the casing width that the bolt slides into is wider than normal, therefore the washer torques against the pulley casing as opposed to the bolt shaft/hub.
I'll have to pull it apart again to spec it and verify (was hoping to avoid that since I had pulled the tensioner pin).
If that is the case, do you think it would be better to grind down the casing until the bolt shaft/hub extends beyond casing width... Or better to just add a small washer to extend the bolt shaft length?
(Or think it best to return it altogether?)
Thanks for the quick reply!
If it were me and the casing was too thick I'd exchange it for a new one. Too many bad things can happen if the tensioner fails.
@@OTRAMM
Thanks for the insight- I had to order a whole new kit (as Rockauto wouldn't replace just the one part).
In case it ever comes up for anyone else in the future for anyone else- the part was Koyo Timing Belt Tensioner Roller LAT1030-1 FG, from the AISIN TKT-021 kit.
The difference was maybe a fingernail or so in width, impossible to tell by eyeball, but it made all the difference.
A good eyeball clue is the copper sleeve insert (pressed into the bolt hole) will actually look slightly recessed instead of flush with the housing.
Which shop manual are you using? Would a Haynes shop manual give the position of the crank before removing harmonic balancer? TDC, 50 DEGREES, OR BEFORE TDC? I have a 2004 Toyota tundra. W/ 4.7 v8.
We use the factory manual. I wouldn't trust Haynes or Chilton.
Could you tell me the position of the harmonic balancer before removing it. The manual I purchased does not even mention it. I have a 2004 4.7 v8 motor in my Tundra. I would greatly appreciate it.
Hi can tell me this video work on 2004 4.7 tundra thanks
It's mostly the same. You'll just need to verify the crank rotation for your year.
No part list on the web
Please why do after fisking the timing current does not come to the plugs
What happened with that idler pulley bolt?
That idler pulley bolts in to the fan bracket. In the tear down video I had noted that the fan bracket was a low quality knock off part. Turns out it was lower quality than I thought. The threads had pulled out for the idler pulley and there were cracks starting at the AC mount on closer inspection. Not sure why the last installed used that over an Aisin part. I replaced the whole bracket with an Aisin rather than risk a thread repair failure.
Could incorret coolant, damage my new water pump??
Not immediately. I'd guess it's take quite a while to hurt the pump.