I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!! I get a kick out of some of previous comments. Not everyone works factory!!!
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
hell if i can get my dexta liner to come out like that ,,i cant even get anything between the liner and the block,,its as if my liners are cast and your,s are like tin,,ive tried the heat like you ,,and ive even tried the weld from top to bottom x2 and then tried pulling with a drawer,,all to no avail,,ive now orderd a 3 inch angle grinder to try cutting a grove,,..yes i know i need to be carefull but what else can i do,,
Very interesting, I knocked them up from the bottom on a '58 IH 4 Cyl with a blunt round stock chisel with plenty of penetrant and oil squirt can. No heat was necessary. they were thin and rusty like old beer cans. I also have this eng. in another hoe so- very interesting P.S remember that gut on "Laugh-In" who always said "Very Interesting"? : )
Much much easier to run an MMA electrode quickly up the inside of the sleeve a couple times and shrink it doesn't put heat into the bore like you did could see vapor rising out of the water jacket holes
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
thats a cool video(more than one way of skinning a cat) your teaching people there are other methods to get a job done, without having to use an expensive service tool
I'll use this trick when im in a machine apocalypse like in terminator otherwise i will trash talk your method. Or until one day im stuck and have limited tools then youll find me doing it... But lets hope if it comes to that i can bore it out until it tears first
not a good idea, you risk the chance of cracking the parent bore. im a gactory trained perkins tech perkins say use a puller i have done it in the field with a welder but you have to run 3 beads from top to bottom and they come right out.
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.
I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
William Grissom ...Did you lubricate the bore & outside of the sleeves with dishsoap?
I've done similar by tig welding 316 down the side of the sleeve it shrinks it enough to remove with the grips just the same!!! nice vid!!!
This 👆
Works every time arc welder with bent rod, cool it down, then the liner falls out.
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
Good work. Clever stuff. Thanks.
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
a rosebud tip?? is that on the screwdriver or a different type of heat process.
i use a stick welder, run beads down the bore and the liner will come right out when cool
thank you great to see and very helpful
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!!
I get a kick out of some of previous comments. Not everyone works factory!!!
Super impressed.. very clever.
You shouldn't be, this is foolish and unwise.
You got to do what you got to do.
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
does that only work on perkins then?
ive watched several youtubers doing it this way,,not all use heat as well tho,,now gonna try it on my dexta,
Nice job sir
That is cool for saving money!
At the expense of maby fucking your block have seen it done by some animals
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
Dear Lord ............
Can help set the timing fuel pump timing on 3034 Perkins
if works whats the problem??
hell if i can get my dexta liner to come out like that ,,i cant even get anything between the liner and the block,,its as if my liners are cast and your,s are like tin,,ive tried the heat like you ,,and ive even tried the weld from top to bottom x2 and then tried pulling with a drawer,,all to no avail,,ive now orderd a 3 inch angle grinder to try cutting a grove,,..yes i know i need to be carefull but what else can i do,,
Very interesting, I knocked them up from the bottom on a '58 IH 4 Cyl with a blunt round stock chisel with plenty of penetrant and oil squirt can. No heat was necessary. they were thin and rusty like old beer cans. I also have this eng. in another hoe so- very interesting P.S remember that gut on "Laugh-In" who always said "Very Interesting"? : )
I don't believe that is the recommended procedure.
How did u get the oil pan off ??
Look for bolts then use a wrench turn counterclockwise if dont see bolts use Sledgehammer beat on it till it falls off
Qlot of keyboard mechanics in here.
or use the freezing method to shrink the sleeve.
Much much easier to run an MMA electrode quickly up the inside of the sleeve a couple times and shrink it doesn't put heat into the bore like you did could see vapor rising out of the water jacket holes
Graet Job.! Thanks for upload.
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
Perkinz Shmerkinzz! I'll do whatever I want! Pbpbobpb!🕺
thats a cool video(more than one way of skinning a cat) your teaching people there are other methods to get a job done, without having to use an expensive service tool
Well, I guess there's a good reason this video is in the comedy category
One stringer bead down the inside liner an yes they'll fall right out.
opps I just seen your post I totally agree
OR WELD A BEAD AROUND INSIDE OF SLEEVE AND IT WILL FALL OUT.
+AMERICAN DIVERGENT possible burn through and weld to bore??
Burn through is very possible and weld lengthwise.
tried it ,,,couldnt get it to work on dexta liner,,have you honestly done it??
So no warping when heating one side of a cylinder wall like this ? Did you test for any oval shaping ?
Ouch! puller....
any supplier the all MF parts outside there? Please email to me how i address You.Thanks
Genius!!!!
I'll use this trick when im in a machine apocalypse like in terminator otherwise i will trash talk your method. Or until one day im stuck and have limited tools then youll find me doing it... But lets hope if it comes to that i can bore it out until it tears first
wyjmowanie tuleji mokrych prawidłowe ale te drugie to podejrzewam że zostało uszkodzone gniazdo tuleji
You said it!
Big chance to damage the block
Simply turn the engine around and hit from the otherside..
SLEEVE PULLER! Engine work isn't carpentry!
sleeve puller dont work on a 2mm liner
@@singtracks they do I use one all the time
How NOT to do that...
Arc air cutting is easy
not a good idea, you risk the chance of cracking the parent bore. im a gactory trained perkins tech perkins say use a puller i have done it in the field with a welder but you have to run 3 beads from top to bottom and they come right out.
bigbelconut that video gave me chills. I never seen it done that way before. Lol
I used to know a jackass that removed liners this way. Always scored the shit out of the parent bore.
WHY NOT USE A LINER PULLER
AMERICAN DISSIDENT I would assume he doesnt have one, just like me
Liner puller does not work on this kinda engine but I prefer arc air cutting its better
if it works, I see no damage - good do this who care
if your scared take to machine shop $25 per sleeve press out
what ever works
for fuck sake
I welded cast steel blocks.
There is nothing wrong with what he is doing..
Come on.
ME GUSTA MAS SACAR LA CAMIZA CON HIELO SECO .
Buy a liner puller before you overhaul
He won't be working on my engine buy the proper tools or leave the job alone
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.