@@tobiasskylstadjohansen5107 I think it was a city in Iceland that experimented with a 4 day work week. Productivity and enjoyment increased. It was a temporary experiment but they ended up sticking to the new system because it worked better.
Biggest mistake this summer. Chalking hands *before* wiping sweat/hair from face. Finish the day looking like undead. Add in stiff forearms at the end of session where they float in front of you, then you can recreate the thriller music video on your walk out. Honestly I never have anything sensible to say, just trying to speak so the robots see something happening :p
Oinnnn I appreciate so much the understanding about how life (work and other stuff) takes a big amount of energy and this should be considered in the intensity and needed rest. This is often ignored.
On the first mistake, the part about combining fingerboarding, campus boarding and bouldering wasn't quite clear to me. I'd be great if you could elaborate. Thanks for the very informative channel from a Crimpd app user
If your aim of fingerboarding or campusing is to build maximum strength you'll benefit from doing these before your climbing session. Recruitment or velocity based work should be done first because fatigue quickly diminishes there effectiveness. However, if you are doing limit bouldering then you need a very solid training history to be able to combine any of these training methods.
Don’t campus/fingerboard at the end of a session if it is nearly equal to or harder than the climbing part of your day. Even this is a risk if not done mindfully. You can do it at the beginning but after a warmup if you want to play it safe. If you’re gonna train on a campus board or finger board at the end of a session anyway, make sure you know how to make it less physically intense/demanding/difficult and by how much to make it safe and plan this out in advance. Preferably with a trainer/coach or someone who knows what they are doing. Definitely something I’ve screwed up once or twice and I’m super happy it was talked about right away in this video. I see a lot of guys making the same mistake. I strained a finger just doing one move on a campus board to see if I could. I should have known better and remembered my desire to find this out for another day since I had already been in the gym 2 hours.
@@davidtorres8396 it was the same for me. I started doing max hangs at the end of my limit bouldering sessions, only because I saw everyone doing it. This was until I started using the Crimpd app
Hi Guys. I have been watching your videos on CZcams and they are great. I particularly like Q&A videos. This brings me to a question which may be of interest to cover. Hovever, a small preamble is in place to provide context. I usually get shot down by the forearm pump on routes and my level is around French 6c. I have never felt being shot down by strength or endurance of my core, but i see that core training is perscribed a lot by multiple coaches. Could it be that those coaches address climbers at much higher level? So, here is my question: What are the typical grades at which different physical limitations (core, pull-up strength, ...) start to dominate? Thanks!
On recovery weeks... So for board climbers, 50% volume at 50% intensity? So instead of limit bouldering, some boulders you've done and know and feel are about at 50% RPE of max, for 30 minutes? Temptation would be to just rep them over and over quickly and get a stamina burn!
Repeating boulders is very valuable. Simply look at this as a movement session where perfect movement is the intention. If you want to move as well as you possibly can, limit boulders or training for stamina could sabotage the intention.
I was wondering what the benefits are of doing low intensity campus or finger boarding after the hard bouldering session? Would doing this actually benefit you in anyway if you're not working at least somewhat intensely?
Both campus rungs and fingerboards can be used to train capacity or endurance. For example campus laddering, repeaters or long duration hangs. All good exercises :)
Not necessarily. You'll benefit from dropping the intensity also. I've actually seen injuries occur in rest weeks because the intensity ramped up subconsciously. It depends what you are doing but I would avoid limit bouldering for example. A taper week is slightly different in that you will maintain the intensity specific to your goals.
Depends on training history and intensity of activities for training, but a 2:1 is good for many to start with and build towards a 4:1 ratio after a few cycles of this training. If doing minimal edge campusing, I will often do this 2:1 ratio simply because of the level of abuse on my connective tissue, whereas fingerboaring I can easily do a full month without worry. I base mine on plateaus, mostly anticipating them because if you feel you’re plateauing then you’ve already done a week of unnecessary training.
It will also depend on how hard and the type of training you are doing. As Zachary says, more intense training can be better suited to a 2:1, this might include really hard power endurance too. A 2:1 also works well during busy work periods or during an outdoor season where you want more weeks feeling "on form".
Wish I could convince my boss that after 3 weeks of work I need a deload week...
Hahaha if only!
Haha! Worth asking...
So true, and so wise. Productivity would most probably increase a lot, and burnout rate go down.
@@tobiasskylstadjohansen5107 I think it was a city in Iceland that experimented with a 4 day work week. Productivity and enjoyment increased. It was a temporary experiment but they ended up sticking to the new system because it worked better.
Biggest mistake this summer. Chalking hands *before* wiping sweat/hair from face. Finish the day looking like undead. Add in stiff forearms at the end of session where they float in front of you, then you can recreate the thriller music video on your walk out.
Honestly I never have anything sensible to say, just trying to speak so the robots see something happening :p
Haha Thanks! The chalky forehead is real!
Always looking like I enjoy powdered donuts too much
Glad to hear the Dave Macleod shout-out. He's a master. I highly recommend his channel.
Big respect for Dave!
Josh and Ollie genuinely sound so chilled and nice all the time.
Enjoying the video so far. I just really would love some timestamps.
Oinnnn I appreciate so much the understanding about how life (work and other stuff) takes a big amount of energy and this should be considered in the intensity and needed rest. This is often ignored.
Coming back from an A5 pulley injury on my middle finger, always good to know what to look out for!
Hope you have a speedy recovery!
On the first mistake, the part about combining fingerboarding, campus boarding and bouldering wasn't quite clear to me. I'd be great if you could elaborate. Thanks for the very informative channel from a Crimpd app user
If your aim of fingerboarding or campusing is to build maximum strength you'll benefit from doing these before your climbing session. Recruitment or velocity based work should be done first because fatigue quickly diminishes there effectiveness. However, if you are doing limit bouldering then you need a very solid training history to be able to combine any of these training methods.
Don’t campus/fingerboard at the end of a session if it is nearly equal to or harder than the climbing part of your day. Even this is a risk if not done mindfully. You can do it at the beginning but after a warmup if you want to play it safe.
If you’re gonna train on a campus board or finger board at the end of a session anyway, make sure you know how to make it less physically intense/demanding/difficult and by how much to make it safe and plan this out in advance. Preferably with a trainer/coach or someone who knows what they are doing.
Definitely something I’ve screwed up once or twice and I’m super happy it was talked about right away in this video. I see a lot of guys making the same mistake. I strained a finger just doing one move on a campus board to see if I could. I should have known better and remembered my desire to find this out for another day since I had already been in the gym 2 hours.
@@davidtorres8396 it was the same for me. I started doing max hangs at the end of my limit bouldering sessions, only because I saw everyone doing it. This was until I started using the Crimpd app
Hi Guys. I have been watching your videos on CZcams and they are great. I particularly like Q&A videos. This brings me to a question which may be of interest to cover. Hovever, a small preamble is in place to provide context. I usually get shot down by the forearm pump on routes and my level is around French 6c. I have never felt being shot down by strength or endurance of my core, but i see that core training is perscribed a lot by multiple coaches. Could it be that those coaches address climbers at much higher level?
So, here is my question: What are the typical grades at which different physical limitations (core, pull-up strength, ...) start to dominate?
Thanks!
Such a good content, but less than 500 likes. Wish you good luck guys. Thanks for your advices.
Thanks Sergey!
Great episode guys!
Thanks Morgan :)
This was such a good episode. Really great explanations all-round.
Thanks :D
Great video guys!
I don’t agree on no project during deload week…because there is a good chance, that you will be in good shape and actually send it!
This may be the case, but projecting year round or during a heavy base training cycle can be a big mistake for some.
Nice talk
Great, lots to think about! 🙄😂
On recovery weeks...
So for board climbers, 50% volume at 50% intensity?
So instead of limit bouldering, some boulders you've done and know and feel are about at 50% RPE of max, for 30 minutes? Temptation would be to just rep them over and over quickly and get a stamina burn!
Repeating boulders is very valuable. Simply look at this as a movement session where perfect movement is the intention. If you want to move as well as you possibly can, limit boulders or training for stamina could sabotage the intention.
I was wondering what the benefits are of doing low intensity campus or finger boarding after the hard bouldering session? Would doing this actually benefit you in anyway if you're not working at least somewhat intensely?
Both campus rungs and fingerboards can be used to train capacity or endurance. For example campus laddering, repeaters or long duration hangs. All good exercises :)
@@LatticeTraining Thank you 🙏
Got a few WHAT you're working through????? @0:03
Is it even necessary to fingerboard? I only like to fingerboard when I for whatever reason can't go climbing. But if I can I'd rather climb.
It really depends on your training history and goals. For many, fingerboarding is a necessary part of training.
I always thought you want to maintain workout intensity during a de-load week but drop volume by 50%?
Not necessarily. You'll benefit from dropping the intensity also. I've actually seen injuries occur in rest weeks because the intensity ramped up subconsciously. It depends what you are doing but I would avoid limit bouldering for example. A taper week is slightly different in that you will maintain the intensity specific to your goals.
is a deload week neccecary after 2 weeks of training or can i train for a longer period before the rest ?
Depends on training history and intensity of activities for training, but a 2:1 is good for many to start with and build towards a 4:1 ratio after a few cycles of this training. If doing minimal edge campusing, I will often do this 2:1 ratio simply because of the level of abuse on my connective tissue, whereas fingerboaring I can easily do a full month without worry.
I base mine on plateaus, mostly anticipating them because if you feel you’re plateauing then you’ve already done a week of unnecessary training.
It will also depend on how hard and the type of training you are doing. As Zachary says, more intense training can be better suited to a 2:1, this might include really hard power endurance too. A 2:1 also works well during busy work periods or during an outdoor season where you want more weeks feeling "on form".
squeeeeeky door :)