There was a lot of life left on those break pads. There is no need to replace them before they have worn down to about 2 mm of friction material. Also, many proper steps are omitted, many of which are important if you want your brakes to perform well and the system to last the life of the car: 1) It's useful to rinse the brakes thoroughly with soapy water first. That not only helps keeping everything clean, but also prevents you from inhaling toxic brake dust. If you don't do this, you should at least wear a mask for your protection. 2) It is best practice to open the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing back the pistons. This way potentially contaminated brake fluid in the caliper can be captured (using a hose, of course) instead of being pushed back into the tiny orifices of the ABS system. Also, in that case there is no need to open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. 3) There are special tools for pushing back the pistons. If you only have a screw driver, it is advisable to push the pistons back with the old pads still installed, wedging the screw driver between the disk and the brake pad rather than between the disk and the piston. This minimizes the risk of damaging the rubber boots on the pistons. 4) Before installing new pads, one should thoroughly clean the slots in the calipers where the pads sit, since a lot of crud accumulates there. A caliper brush is best suited for this purpose. 5) Before installing the new pads, one should apply MB brake paste to the edges of the brake pads, i.e. where they meet the caliper. 6) One should really clean all the hardware before reinstalling it--i.e. the pin and the bracket. A slight amount of brake paste can also be applied to the pin. Finally, the wheel bolts should be tightened with a torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs.
Hi 195ization, Once you take the brakes off use long screw driver or pliers to push the calipers out to make room for new brakes, look at 3:24 into this video where I do that. Brake fluid will rush back to fluid reservoir so watch out for that.
Syed Ali can you list all the tools you need to change the breaks. Looks very easy what is that thing you used to take the lug nuts off I need that it make life simple.
I'm sure a garden-variety 1lb claw hammer - which you can find at any big-box store for not much money - would have been much more effective for driving the retaining pin than even a big pair of Channel-Locks.
Okay, you're not a professional, but still I would use a floor jack to support the car rather than the factory jack that came with the car. I've used the factory jack in my E320 exactly once, just so I would know how if I needed to, and I won't use it again unless I have no other choice. You can buy a decent floor jack at Harbor Freight for not much money. Also, this is the second video on this particular job where I've seen someone using a nail to drive out the retaining pin. But in the other one, the guy was at least using a hammer! Not trying to pick on you, but these things I pointed out aren't safe. And one should never cut corners on safety.
THIS GUY DON'T KNOW ABOUT SPRAYING ON BRAKE CLEANER TO MAKE THE PIN AND PADS SLIDE OUT WITH EASE .HE IS RUSHING AND FORCING OUT THE PARTS.THEY MITE CRACK OR BREAK
Absolutely shocking, this chap would have been far safer leaving those old pads in - this is a HOW NOT TO. The car jack is meant for wheel changing not conducting maintenance operations - very dangerous.
a little check up for those of us who grew up with american cars. Nice Job Syed!
Nice job with the demo. You make it look very easy. Thanks
There was a lot of life left on those break pads. There is no need to replace them before they have worn down to about 2 mm of friction material.
Also, many proper steps are omitted, many of which are important if you want your brakes to perform well and the system to last the life of the car:
1) It's useful to rinse the brakes thoroughly with soapy water first. That not only helps keeping everything clean, but also prevents you from inhaling toxic brake dust. If you don't do this, you should at least wear a mask for your protection.
2) It is best practice to open the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing back the pistons. This way potentially contaminated brake fluid in the caliper can be captured (using a hose, of course) instead of being pushed back into the tiny orifices of the ABS system. Also, in that case there is no need to open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.
3) There are special tools for pushing back the pistons. If you only have a screw driver, it is advisable to push the pistons back with the old pads still installed, wedging the screw driver between the disk and the brake pad rather than between the disk and the piston. This minimizes the risk of damaging the rubber boots on the pistons.
4) Before installing new pads, one should thoroughly clean the slots in the calipers where the pads sit, since a lot of crud accumulates there. A caliper brush is best suited for this purpose.
5) Before installing the new pads, one should apply MB brake paste to the edges of the brake pads, i.e. where they meet the caliper.
6) One should really clean all the hardware before reinstalling it--i.e. the pin and the bracket. A slight amount of brake paste can also be applied to the pin.
Finally, the wheel bolts should be tightened with a torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs.
Thank you , you instruction are very good
Thanks, just saved myself $300+ from a shop.
Thanks for the video... i'll be changing pads tomorrow. looks very simple...
Thank You. Thanks to this video I was able to fix my brakes. :)
THIS IS WHAT YOU CALL A BACK YARD MECHANIC
Thanks , your video saved me some money 🙏 and know I can change my own breaks 👍👍👍
After replacing the brake pads, shouldn't you have sprayed WD40 on the pin before placing it back in? It looked rusty.
very good Video
Thank you!it’s make help me to change my brake pads in Clk’s!
Hi 195ization,
Once you take the brakes off use long screw driver or pliers to push the calipers out to make room for new brakes, look at 3:24 into this video where I do that. Brake fluid will rush back to fluid reservoir so watch out for that.
Syed Ali can you list all the tools you need to change the breaks. Looks very easy what is that thing you used to take the lug nuts off I need that it make life simple.
nice vid, but you need better tools man asap
These parts are a little bit rusty... Nice Car
Thanks for being honest, your not a mechanic. BUT KUDOS FOR GETTING IN THERE. LOL
Did your brake pads have one hols r 2 I got a 97 that has 2 hols
Pads didn't have any holes but brackets that holds the pads in place had 2 holes.
Ok got it getting ready to change them now
knee pads but no hammer. nice
haha :)!!
Gotta love that piston recess tool too. wow.
knee pads bra
WOW Channel lock hammer must be a new tool. beat the shit out of your calipers he must have a lot of confidence in what he's doing again WOW.
ya him buttfucking the caliper with screwdriver and channel locks is him compressing the piston.
Hammer? I would never have guessed that you're not a mechanic.......
Lol
I'm sure a garden-variety 1lb claw hammer - which you can find at any big-box store for not much money - would have been much more effective for driving the retaining pin than even a big pair of Channel-Locks.
Okay, you're not a professional, but still I would use a floor jack to support the car rather than the factory jack that came with the car. I've used the factory jack in my E320 exactly once, just so I would know how if I needed to, and I won't use it again unless I have no other choice. You can buy a decent floor jack at Harbor Freight for not much money.
Also, this is the second video on this particular job where I've seen someone using a nail to drive out the retaining pin. But in the other one, the guy was at least using a hammer!
Not trying to pick on you, but these things I pointed out aren't safe. And one should never cut corners on safety.
Didn't replace the inner pads nor the discs
THIS GUY DON'T KNOW ABOUT SPRAYING ON BRAKE CLEANER TO MAKE THE PIN AND PADS SLIDE OUT WITH EASE .HE IS RUSHING AND FORCING OUT THE PARTS.THEY MITE CRACK OR BREAK
This guy is scary. Glad he doesn't work on my car.
Bro u did it all wrong!! Didn't even grease the caliber pins or properly adjust the piston in the caliber for proper brake fitment lol 😆 😂 🤣
Absolutely shocking, this chap would have been far safer leaving those old pads in - this is a HOW NOT TO. The car jack is meant for wheel changing not conducting maintenance operations - very dangerous.
THIS IS THE WORST BREAK PAD REPLACEMENT I HAVE EVER SEEN.