Solar Pool Heater and Diverter
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2014
- Watch this video to see our solar pool heater design and learn some tips and tricks when building your own. We are in the second season of using this solar pool heater to heat our pool and have been very happy with the results thus far. The heater is made of 2X4 construction and 3/4" particle board for the box. The tubing is 500 feet of 1/2" irrigation tubing which was purchased for less than $20. Once I get the tubing back into place I plan to cover the entire box with a piece of glass, plastic, or some other transparent material that can hold some additional heat in around the tubing.
The diverter that I made here diverts some of the flow of pool water from the pool pump for both my solar heater and the wood burning heater. I let this run continuously through the solar heater when it is sunny. I will post a separate video on the exact temperatures once I get some figures put together but the heater helps keep the pool temperature around 80 degrees with less than 8 hours of sun light on the solar heater or pool. I also use a wood burning pool heater if we have a few days of rain or clouds to boost the temp back up.
The overall cost of this project with the irrigation tubing, fittings, pvc pipe for diverter, valves, and wood for the stand was about $80. I also used some stain that I already had to seal up the untreated wood a little bit as well. Compared to the cost of the solar heaters that you can purchase this project is a fraction of the cost with more surface area of tubing that can capture more heat energy.
For more information on this and other sustainable projects please visit - www.simplesuburbanliving.com
Thanks for watching!! - Jak na to + styl
Love this!!! this would be a fun project this summer!
great solar heater, thanks for sharing this video..
Excellent video. Good information. Thanks for the effort you put into this.
In fact, you want your water to go fast through the piping. You prefer to have a lot of water heated off just a little bit. It mean the system is more efficient because for every degree your water take, the heat transfer between the hot pipe and the water is slower until they are both at the same temperature and the heater is very unefficient. You are right, no need for any mecanism. For 500 feets, I would prefer to do 5 loop of 100 feet in parallel. Also, never ever close both side of the solar pannel. the pressure can get quite high inside the tubing. Good job and thank you for sharing your design.
Great job mate...very simple and efficient. I'm working to setup a solar water heater for my grand son in Berrien Country, Michigan. So I order a Solar Water Heater Book, to help me to complete the job. As a HVACR and Plumber Tech, this is new to me, but with your simple project and others idea's, I think that I'm able to start and finished the job before the summer. Great video.
I did the same idea 20 yrs ago,I used black heavy gage plastic roll to enclose it
thanks for sharing this video..
THANK YOU for pointing out that the more/less water intake has nothing to do with anything. It's been driving me nuts.
I have an above ground pool display that is only 8' diameter, the smallest they sold to the public is 12'. My $12 100' foot roll of black poly is made on a 3'X3' square, and 200' could easily fit on a 4'X4' square. My box walls were made from 3-side aluminum channel beams from old discarded hot tub covers. Once the coil is in place another beam is wedged in to hold it flat, perfect fit. Big Box stores for plexi is an expensive route to go. I went to a plastics supplier in my area called Midland Plastics, and I got a 3'X3' piece for under $20. So aside from some barb fittings, the bypass valve, etc... my major expenses were $32. And with a solar cover to trap the heat in at night and timer to run the pump daytime only... VERY EFFECTIVE!!!
You could use metal strapping across the coils, screwed into the wood to hold them down
Fencing wire woven in and out the back and in around each hose would keep it located, it would be time consuming but very inexpensive. Plexi glass over the top might be worth looking into also to prevent any wind/breeze from acting as a cooling effect. Great videos! Cheers!
Actually if you ran two 1X2 furring strips in front to hold the coil flat, and did so with a bead of silicone, the silicone would stick to the furring strips like crazy and contour the pipes. If it doesn't adhere to the pipes in the long run, it doesn't matter. Because the silicone stuck to the furring strips acts like a custom formed lock, keeping the coil from settling over time.
Appreciated sir. God bless.
Nice work. I also have both too. The fire heater is so much better then the solar heater however using both can really do the job depending on your situation. I learned a lot from your fire heater video and built my own. Thanks
Excellent! Glad I could help. I am really liking that wood burner so far this year. It has helped keep my girls happy with the 80 degree water; something that we have not been able to obtain in previous years. Thanks for watching!!!
That's really neat, man, thanks for the video. I will have to argue that water flow rate does matter, although I have not done any testing on it. The cooler the water is in your coils, the faster heat will be transferred to it, so this would point to a higher flow rate being more optimal.
Basic Poke I thought the same thing but I am still not convinced that is true. If I remember physics correctly one calorie of heat energy raises one milliliter of water by one degree Celsius (which is about 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit). I do not believe it matter if the water is cooler or warmer. I suppose I will have to do some tests to find out but my experience from the wood burning pool heater is that it is pretty close with faster or slower rates of flow. Might do some follow up experiments this summer to prove one way or another. Great comment!
SSLFamilyDad In my opinion and as per my understanding...
The optimal flow would be one where the discharge water is slightly warmer than the supply water, even if only a fraction of a degree. With your coil collecting solar energy (which has been converted to heat in the wall of the pvc), basically your goal becomes transferring that energy into your pool by cooling the coil. If the water in your coil starts to get to hot, it accepts less and less heat from the coil until eventually the coil would feel hot... that is, the coil is transferring heat to your hand and the atmosphere... If you think about that, unless your goal is to make the pool warmer than body temperature you won't gain much in the way of efficiency by running it warm enough to feel warmth from your coil.
I've never really quantified it but I get really great warming by getting my flow fast enough that with the discharge line underwater in the pool I can feel a temperature difference as the water runs across my hand but when it runs over my hand out of the pool water it doesn't really warmer than the pool.
This leads me to think that multiple coils of shorter length would be better than a single equal to the sum of all these lengths. For example, 5 x 100' coils should be much better than 1 x 500' coil. Eventually, the limiting factor becomes how much water you can expose to solar (or wood heat) per day which is dependent more on your pump and line sizes.
Hope that makes sense and by all means, correct me if I am off base here...
That's exactly right, Dave, especially first paragraph. That is what theory says but it really should be tested in case you there is something in play that we have missed. No real system is ideal.
Use a laser thermometer to see at what point the tubing stops getting any hotter, then cut off all the tubing 10 ft. past that point. It is just a waste of space and money.
Does friction play any role with water flow?
Great videos, thanks for sharing. Has anyone compared results using copper pipe sprayed black and black plastic pipe? Obviously quite a difference in material cost so I'm interested to know as looking to build a unit. Thank you.
This is a cool video. It made me think. Why don't you just put a really large black circle in the bottom of your pool? One, that could be easily removed and cleaned, simply by sliding it out. It wouldn't have to be a thick material. A light one would do. Made out of what I'm not sure, but it sound's a whole lot easier to do. You could even make something that floated on top of your pool to heat it up. A large solid circle of black with a few holes in it, just enough so the water would flow on top of it and that it still floated on top of the water. Seems to me whether its below on the bottom or floating on the top.. it be a good idea.
Nice video buddy. Have a nice day.
These are great videos! So glad I found your channel. Just looking for a video on how you built your diverter and if it’s too late once there’s already water in the pool and running through it to add something like this on?
You can add something like this anytime. Just close off the inlet and outlet to the filter and connect the tubing
Thanks!!!
Good job, it looks good. Could you make measures for us? By measuring input and output temperature and water flowrate we will be able to calculate power collected from sun and put into water, and then improve it. The winding tube design is a problem because it need more power from the pump to circulate. The coropool makers are working on a collector massively parallel with better flowrate and power.
Please consider putting a sheet of tempered glass over the box, you will notice a dramatic difference in the efficiency of the heater and a temperature increase in the water exiting the unit. Also consider getting some polyisocyanurate insulation at the home center, it has the highest R value and max temp of 250F, place the insulation under the coils and around the walls, insulation plus the glass cover will make a huge difference.
So here we are almost 2 years later and I'd like an update as to how this is working and/or not working as we live in Montana and are looking for a pool heater. Also, if you like the wood heater over the poly wrap heater. let us know. Thanks!
I don't know if anyone has said about the plexiglass. Make sure it is UV coated; otherwise, it will become brittle down the road.
Hi there! Thanks for showing this set up! What do you use to connect the irrigation tubing to the PVC pipe?
Hi, thanks for the great video. I live in Canada and was wondering what I need to do in order to store the solar panel for the winter? Do I need to keep it indoors? How would I flush the tubing to ensure that no water is left in the pipe to prevent freezing?
If you have an air compressor...............blow air through the tubing, it will push the water out.
great video. Just roughed in something similar onto the roof of my shed. How are you connecting those smaller pipes (look to be about half inch) into the larger plumbing? I can't seem to find that sort of reducer or adapter anywhere. Any tips on where you found it, or what to use?
+Justin Pritchard I used a 1 1/2 bushing that reduces to 3/4" and the then a threaded 3/4" to 1/2" irrigation connection. Hope that helps
cover it in glass, it will be like a greenhouse in there then. would be much warmer
note if you place a peace of rubber under hose it heat much faster
Nice shirt...GO DUCKS!!!!
Great set up man!! I see now that you have the wood heater as a back up for your solar heater. Now, I'd like to make some comments to improve a little bit your system. I remember from your wood fire heater video that you were having a flow rate of about 1 gpm through your 1/2" pipe and probably you would have wished to have a little bid more for a 15K gallons pool. Also I remember you saying that you would have preferred to have two coils in parallel for a better efficiency so I wonder why you didn't apply the same idea to your solar heater set up (parallel setup). You have two main parameters that come into play here, velocity and pressure drop (head loss). You might want to keep the velocity between 5-10 ft/s in your system so you will have a reasonably pressure drop through out the system. The idea is not to overload your pump and keep the system pressure drop bellow your pump pressure limit for a given flow. You would need to check your pump's performance curve and make sure that your system's head loss falls under the dome of the curve, by doing so you won't damage at all your pump and will keep a good flow rate. I know I sound a little nerd but I won't limit myself to explain some theory, I will suggest you a solution in a minute as well.
Also, you would like to be able (ideally) to close fully your shut off valve and heat up 100% of your flow, but in your current set up you can't do it since you are reducing from 1 1/5" to 1/5" and keeping a single pipe (I suppose that your wood heater line is close) . If you shut off your 1 1/2" ball valve your pipe will probably burst. Your single 1/2" pipe won't handle such a huge flow very well and your pump might get damaged as well. It is also a matter of safety, if someone happens to be curious and close fully your valve without your presence, your system will go down. That being said, your solution would be having two or three 1/2" line (needs to be calculated) so that your system runs in parallel and instead of having your 1/2" hose in series, they should be in parallel. You will like to split up your entire flow in as many downstream connections as needed. Let me put you an example.
Most 1 1/2 pumps deliver as much as 150 gpm but if you utilized 1 1/2" pipe, your flow will be limited by the size of the pump. If you intend to maintain for example 6 ft/s in your pipe (to minimize head loss) the max flow rate that this pipe can handle is about 38 gpm (overrated pump). Then you put two 1" line in parallel to maintain the same velocity (two 1" line is equivalent of having one 1 1/2" line). Then, after each 1" pipe you put three 1/2" hose (equivalent to 1" pipe) to maintain again the same velocity. Now, these 1/2" hoses need to have the proper length so your pump can handle the total head loss in your system without reducing flow rate. Let's say for now that your are good with 50 ft. The result is having 6 x 50 ft solar heaters for your full flow and you can divert 100% of your flow, fast heating process, and safer too. If you want to divert only 50% because your are in a very hot day, close your 1 1/2' shut off valve half way and close fully the valve on your second 1" line so half of your flow rate will flow fully in your second 1" line, and you will have three solar heaters working in parallel (you have just shut down have of the system).
I don't know what would be your requirements but is only matter of having access to your pump performance curve and calculate the head loss in your system so your pipe length and diameter can properly be sized.
Hope my explanation will help you and I would gladly assist you in the calculations if you want (for free of course, lol). I'm currently designing my own solar heater by doing some of this calculation first. I'm a licensed professional engineer so don't worry, I know what I'm saying and doing. I apologize if my English doesn't sound properly, I'm a foreign dude with just a few years living in USA.
I love by the way your videos and you are a genius. I wish I were as handy as you!!
Thanks for the theory and ideas, I always appreciate. Right now it is setup to run in parallel by forcing and equal amount of water to both heaters at the same time. I designed the diverter to be able to add on more loops (all 1/2" tubing) so I can add more solar heaters and more coils to the wood burner to run it all at once. If my calculations are correct I could have up to 8 or 9 1/2" loops to equal the water volume of the 1 1/2" pipe. So as I add onto the system I can eventually run the entire pool pump pressure through the heating system and turn the whole thing into a super duper 15,000 gallon hot tube:) Thanks for watching!
SSLFamilyDad You are welcome. That's the idea man, more systems in parallel. My advice is that you shouldn't make each individual system too long so either your flow and your pump performance would drop because of pressure drop, messing up your pump in the long run.
Take a look at this trusted link: www.troublefreepool.com/threads/830-Hydraulics-101-Have-you-lost-your-head
It will tell you exactly how many 1/2" is equivalent to 1 1/2". It is the second table. I believe you can go max 8 like you said.
Now, If you change a little bit your arrangement and reduce first from 1 1/2" to 1" (2 pipes in parallel), you won't need 8 x 1/2" systems to cover the entire flow. You can do 6 (3 per 1" pipe) and you are done. Thanks you.
SSLFamilyDad My husband and I are interested in making a solar heater and like your video. On another note, we noticed what may be a DIY solar cover roll system in your video. Is that what it is and have you shown how to make this. We are also interested in figuring out how to make something like this. Thank you
Jabo The solar cover roll is actually not really diy but more thrown together to make it work:) We got this pool from craigslist and I put it up myself. The solar cover reel came with it and I made some supports that stick out from the retaining wall to support it. You can also purchase ones that mount right to the side of the pool. I am actually going to build a new one this year (if I find the time) that will look a little nicer, I will do a video on it. Thanks for watching!
Nice vid - use glue to stop it distorting. You may not need to divert via the pool pump as heat will naturally cycle the water if it is elevated.
Are there worries about backflow into the heating system with a manifold design like that? I am a beginner, wondering about that.
I wonder what adding sand to it will do - sand attracts heat and retains it - think about the beach - the one thing on a very hot day the SAND is HOT ..wonder if we add it to it as a fill in the gaps if it would work
I would like to make a suggestion. The frame and box where you have the irrigation tubing make it out of sheet-metal and squarer-tubing. The metal will absorb more heat and help heat the water.
Thanks rodv69, that is a good idea. I will be doing some renovations on that next spring and adding some sheet metal would be an excellent addition. I am also planning on covering the box with some plastic or glass, thanks for the suggestion!
Get some recycled glass from an old sliding door or plexi. You'll see a dramatic increase in heat
how has it held up? How many gallons in the pool? Thank you
Can you leave water in it and shut off the diverter? If your pool was already as hot as you wanted and you don't want more. Or would it expand the tubing to sit there in the sun with no movement to the water?
Aprender de las experiencias de otros . BUENO
How many feet of tubing need to heat 1 gal of water? Looking to use to heat a green house water barrel for night time to maintain above freezing temp.
I'd like to say, great video. I think I will be making one very similar to yours. One question I have is to the degree you set your stand? Why 45 degrees. have you tried other set points and had less luck? If you're Michigan like I thought I hear, you might have more efficiency at 70 degrees.
nutman411 That is a great point, and you are probably right. I originally made it at 45 degrees just for easy of construction and I thought it would be the best "in the middle" angle for the sun throughout the day. However, I am not opposed to a different angle that could probably collect more sun energy
@@SSLFamilyDad A good rule of thumb is the angle needs to be the same degree of parallel you are on. My Lake house is in Kentucky. It is on the 37 degree parallel of the earth therefore, to get maximum solar heating, the solar panel needs to be at a 37 degree angle. There is a website that explains this FYI.
Is this the "Red" rated pipe? That is the one that is rated for hot water. The reason is that other pipe maybe release toxic water into your pool from the plastic.
does it work or not?
So, when winter arrives, and the temperature drops, how do you drain the water to prevent a burst? I suppose that you could move the whole thing bodily into a frost free area. But it is probably really heavy.
Air compressor to blow water out
Can any one tell me how many gals this will be in sense as to use with an parked RV for showers or doing dishes? Sounds great for a pool but I am looking as to using with a parked RV on the roof top Not worried of extra load when not moving!! as well it will be supported once parked via other means the plywood boxing and another box underneath holding the fresh cold water.... and Support in bath room directly under the placement up top... then later placed on roof of RV shed..
Just needing gal rate per the footage of tubing. Thanks
Youd be looking at 5 gallons worth of water for 500' of 1/2 tubing. If all youre using it for is a shower youd be better off using just a 5 gallon bucket painted black. Leave it in the sun during the day and youd have perfect shower water. Use multiple buckets for more water. Making what this guy did just for showers would be over kill.
How did you connect the inlet from the pump and outlet to the pool to the diverter?
What size and type of tubing are you using? My pool inlet and return are 1.5in. I was considering using polythylene irrigation tubing. I can get 1000ft 3/4 for 100$ on Amazon. My concern is the 1.5in to 3/4 reduction. Will that be a problem? Or is that good?
Michael Miller I am using 1/2" irrigation tubing. You don't want to force your entire water flow through the 1/2" or 3/4". You will want to use a diverter like I showed in this video so that you can just divert some of the water flow instead of all of it.
Looks heavy. How do you empty the left over water for maybe storage during winter ?
What ever you do, don't let it sit in the sun without water flow, it will get hot enough to melt the plastic tubing, at least here in Florida it will. I found out the hard way when my pump failed. I ended up with three splits and many blisters, along with the straight coupling melting into a V shape
Now why would you need a pool heater in florida? lol
Hi, I just saw this and will be making mine this weekend coming up. The poly tubing...The boxes that you made look like they are 48" x 48", if so, the two of them held 250 feet of hose each>>???? I am unclear on how much poly pipe to buy for mine, that is similar to yours in design. Thanks Mike
Michael Greig The box is just one sheet of OSB so 4'X8', each 4X4 section held just under 250' of poly (I had some left over) Hope that helps and good luck putting it all together!
What were the temps in and out?
Would like to know to see if it's worth the time.
Unfortunately David, I did not get the temp testing done this past summer as I did with the wood burning heater. I will do that video this spring. I can say this however, if you want to really boost the temps quickly the solar heater is not the best, wood burning heater is much better at that. The solar heater works great to maintain the heat in the pool and counteract the loss of heat at night but it isn't going to make your pool into a hot tub:) Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
+David Anger - Be careful how you judge if it is worth your time. If you were expecting a 2-3 degree F. difference, it is worth your time. If you were expecting a big temperature difference, you don't understand thermodynamics and this is not worth your time.
The sun will destroy the Plexiglas in one summer. I was hoping to see water temps measured and how much it warmed the pool.
alan headrick I never had the chance to do the water temps testing with this and I have retired it for this year as we are landscaping around that end of the pool. I may rebuild with a different design for a new location later this year but won't have any measurements out unfortunately. We are using solely the wood burning pool heater which works much better.
Is that a Doughboy Powerpak II pump?
Here's a suggestion for others doing this. I found that if i run the pump continuously as sslfamilydad is doing, you really have to slow the water down running through your coils. other wise its only a few degrees, if lucky, more then what the pool is. which means your wasting energy running your pump 8 hours a day. So what i've done is get a multi timer to turn on every hour and run for 15 mins. I have 800 feet of 3/4" poly pipe on my roof in several coils. it runs 7 times from 10am to 4pm, (i would like to get a timer with more settings as it could be run every 30 mins for 15mins in my opinion on a good day). It heats the pool very well. I've had the pool over 80 degrees,
purewack0 I have seen quite a few others doing this as well and that is surely one way to go. I might disagree just a bit and I will tell you why. You can either run the water continuously and heat more water but only a few degrees or you can run less water through and heat it up a lot but you are still only adding the same amount of heat to the pool. I have done some testing with my wood burning heater and it is equal either way. Some also theorize that you can get more heat in the pool by running the water through faster since it supposedly heats up quicker when colder. So no matter what the flow of water is through the pipe you still only have one set amount of solar energy hitting the surface. Whether slow or fast you are still doing the same thing except if it sits without water running through it for a time while it heats up then all of that het energy is wasted and mostly dissipating back into the air. That is just my take on it anyway but either way will certainly heat the pool! oh, and I run my pool filter 6-8 hours a day anyway, don't you?
+SSLFamilyDad I disagree with the above statement, maybe i'm missing something, but in the system i've built (same as yours but with 5/8" tubing and currently 200') After pumping the heated water from the tubing into the spa, (at about 110*) if i keep the pump on, all i get is the colder spa water flowing thru and back into the spa. By running it constantly it doesn't stay in the coils long enough to heat up. It would never rise enough if i let it just cycle thru.
when u first start, how long will it take the pool water in the pool to warm up?
+Keepingitreal98 a lot of factors there but expect to raise the pool temp about .5 degrees per day if you have full sun on the solar heater
Does the PVC pipe go under the ground?
in this case it just lays on top of the ground and I added insulation to the tubing between the pump and the solar collector but you could also bury it
I've just made one of these and I'm having a real bad time trying to bleed it through the pump......any hints?
Great vid btw
To get water through it all, I laid mine flat on the ground and started the pump. Once water was flowing, I then raised it to the upright angle.
@@edwardleone6064 thanks......eventually managed to do it by filling the pipe work 1st
what materials heat the water faster? tin cans, aluminum tube, or this plastic hose?
Well, my opinion would be that it does not really depend on the material but the amount of surface area that you have in the sunlight. The sun only has a set amount of energy per square inch of surface area so no matter what you use (I would recommend it be black) it should absorb the heat pretty well. Now I suppose that a thinner material might provide better heat transfer into the water but I still would think the irrigation hose it the cheapest and best option for anything similar to this. I hope that helps and thanks for watching!
SSLFamilyDad any reason why you paint the wood black as well? what type of paint do i need to get to paint on the wood? or does the color matter? sorry new bie :- )
Thomas Chan Black seems to absorb more sunlight and heat. I just used black spary paint but a black deck stain would be best and waterproof.
+David Martinez - Surprisingly it doesn't make as much difference as you might think. However, tin cans and aluminum tubes will corrode rapidly in warm chlorinated water.
What are your thoughts using soft copper pipe for the coils. 2 - 50ft rolls.
+sdp300 i think that would be fine but way more expensive and you would want to paint them black
NO....not if you use chlorine as a sanitizer in the pool. Chlorine will react with the copper.
+firemedic947 no issues with it at all so far, two years running chlorinated water through it
+SSLFamilyDad I thought you used pvc pipe for your heaters? I was responding to the question from the other person about using copper tubing instead of plastic.
+firemedic947 inside the barrel is rolls of copper tubing. It doesn't seem to be an issue although i have head not to use cooper with chlorine it seem to be fine
nice video loved it, but try to get a betther mike, also be aware of the back groud noice
Another Michigander, eh? What part are you in? I'm on the coast of Lake Michigan in North Muskegon/Grand Haven area. What is up with this nighttime weather, man? No wonder my plants are so angry.
Good to hear we have another troll following along! For those not from Michigan that would be anyone living in the lower peninsula (under the Mackinaw Bridge). I am about 30 minutes south of the Flint area myself. Weather has been a bit mild so far hasn't it? At least my tomatoes seem to like it - videos to follow... Thanks for following along man!
that's pretty cool Here is a thought if you put some roll roofing be hide it would that help warm it up more and hold heat with that covering you was talking about on top its just a thought hope it don't sound dumb or something
Ran out of time to take the duct tape off. LOL. Wow that must take forever???
Why not all of it? It will evenly heat up.
Michael Miller I think the main reason is the concern that you had originally. You will burn up your pump reducing from 1 1/2" to 3/4" unless you make several separate loops so you can divide the flow between maybe 4 3/4" loops. If you did that it would be a great way to go.
Would be really nice if you’d lose the music
I built a solar heat panel after watching some You Tube videos. 120.00 for the plexi-glass, 89.00 for the adjustable pond pump. 30.00 dollars for the 4x8 sheet of plywood, 20.00 for the four pieces of pressure treated 2x4, two garden hoses for the in and out at 70.00..(I buy American made when I can, not the Chinese junk) 300 feet of 3/4 pex tubing was 135.00, fittings to link hoses to pex tubing, etc 20.00, screws to hold plexi-glass to frame and put frame together I would say I used about 10.00 worth, Paint spray cans black 20.00 worth, all total= 514.00 Results? I live in Central Pa, currently on 4/28/2020 it is about 55 degrees outside and sunny. with some clouds passing through. The panel is heating up to 100'F inside and the continual output is 64 degree's. The pool temperature is 54'F It's cold outside so I imagine it will only get better. I think the mistake I made was using 3/4 inch pex tubing instead of 1/2. I will be making another one using 1/2 inch pex tubing which is only 75.00 for 300 feet. The 3/4 will feed into the 1/2 inch then. I am a little disappointed with the results, I expected better after spending 500.00 and I forgot to mention caulking I bought to seal everything up. I did this because I wanted to extend pool swimming season. I worked hard and spent 10,000.00 putting in a built in pool for the family. did not seem right to spend that money and only be able to use the pool for three months out of year. I hope this does the trick but am not convinced. You can buy the rubber panels on Amazon for 250 a section. I may have been better off doing that. Also, to anyone thinking of putting in their own built in pool, if you have some common sense, you can do it. The pool companies in my area wanted 35,000.00 to put in the same pool..(pool included) I did mine for about 10,000 including the concrete patio surrounding pool. FYI.
5:25 - "Real basic design"
You 'yada yada'd' over the MOST important part.
I have no idea what *any* of those connectors are.
I have no idea how to get 1.5" pipe down to irrigation hose diameter.
How is the flex pipe secured to the PVC?
What should I be buying?
he answered how he reduced it in an earlier comment response up higher.. tried it and it worked
Here's the complete project.
czcams.com/video/5pDzDgKIsVE/video.html
+MrSmokindabud Looks perfect man, I like using the two separate heaters instead of pilling it all into one like I did. Looks like it is working well too!
SSLFamilyDad Thanks a lot buddy. Next year I'm thinking about adding 2 more and putting them on wheels to push around. Right now each one weighs about 40lbs. They do work pretty well, I live in Pennsylvania and have been getting 40-50 degree nights and still able to keep the pool temp 78-80. I had the pool closed a couple weeks before labor day last year but I'm still swimming now.
Why oh why don't I live in America :( ... everything is 10 times more expensive in europe.
Amazon price for Rain Bird T63-100 Drip Irrigation 1/2" ... 11$ ... in Europe ? Almost 95 $
+cfen matisse come on over:) it just means we are more in debt to China than you guys are, don't worry when our country collapses because there are no more jobs we won't have any money to buy anything anyway:)
+SSLFamilyDad And you are not even kidding.
Oh no ! :(
No good...
This is a cool video. It made me think. Why don't you just put a really large black circle in the bottom of your pool? One, that could be easily removed and cleaned, simply by sliding it out. It wouldn't have to be a thick material. A light one would do. Made out of what I'm not sure, but it sound's a whole lot easier to do. You could even make something that floated on top of your pool to heat it up. A large solid circle of black with a few holes in it, just enough so the water would flow on top of it and that it still floated on top of the water. Seems to me whether its below on the bottom or floating on the top.. it be a good idea.
Nice video buddy. Have a nice day.
Any sunlight that gets past the surface of the water will heat the water. Nothing extra is needed. Black metal pans floating on the surface will catch the energy that reflects from the surface. It's a lot with water--spring--fall
This is a cool video. It made me think. Why don't you just put a really large black circle in the bottom of your pool? One, that could be easily removed and cleaned, simply by sliding it out. It wouldn't have to be a thick material. A light one would do. Made out of what I'm not sure, but it sound's a whole lot easier to do. You could even make something that floated on top of your pool to heat it up. A large solid circle of black with a few holes in it, just enough so the water would flow on top of it and that it still floated on top of the water. Seems to me whether its below on the bottom or floating on the top.. it be a good idea.
Nice video buddy. Have a nice day.