How To Size Climbing Shoes: La Sportiva, Black Diamond & So iLL | Climbing Daily Ep.1786
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Today we look at the correct size of La Sportiva, Black Diamond and So iLL climbing shoes for the perfect climbing shoe fit. From performance to comfort sizes we bring you the facts, and our personal opinion so you can make the best buying decisions.
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How To Size Climbing Shoes: La Sportiva, Black Diamond & So iLL | Climbing Daily Ep.1786
Note to the editor(s): The volume levels in this episode are incredibly unbalanced
yes
I usually downsize by two sizes in La Sportiva as they often strech around a size and I actually like to buy shoes that feel tight after two months of use.
I have sinned buying "comfortable" La Sportiva shoes and I regret that after two months when my feet were slipping inside the shoes.
I've rocked the Black Diamond Momentum's as my go to training shoe. I've had 3 pairs since they came out and I loved each one. I'm a street size US men's 10.5-11 (depending on brand) and the US men's 10 fits my foot like a glove. It starts tight but after break in, it's perfect for the life of the shoe.
Thanks for the video guys, super helpful!
These sizing tips are great, thanks for sharing! I've been wanting to try So iLL shoes but they aren't as accessible where I live so I'd need to buy them online and can't try them on before buying.
La sportiva:
41,5 Skarma (easy to break in for me)
42 Miura VS (half size up for sport climbing and multipitches)
Scarpa:
42,5 Instinct VS
42,5 Furia S (painful to break in but fit perfectly now)
1 full EU size difference between the 2 brands.
This is also my experience. Had the LS Skwama in 43 and it had about the same fit as the Scarpa. Instinct VSR in 44. on the other hand the LS Theory came smaller in 43. It is more sized like scarpa models than other La Sportiva shoes.
My first shoes I based sizing off of rentals I wore when I first got into climbing.
I’m US9 street shoe in all brands (that I’ve worn) and when I got to climbing a 9 felt painful, so o went up to US9.5. My first climbing shoes were the MadRock Flash 2.0 and I got them in a US9.5 and at first they were tight, but not painful. Over just a few bouldering sessions they felt just right. For my
Next pair I got the BlkDmnd Zone LV in US9.5 and they fit like a glove for my feet. Only complaints were when breaking in there was a lot of pressure on the knuckles of my toes. It’s more tolerable now, and I’m happy with the performance of the shoe.
Five Ten Blanco. Wide foot. Street shoe 9. Blanco 10! All down to the heel that force the foot forward.
Really insightful video! This has been needed for a long time as there are so many different ideas and fits out there.
I think it would be worth mentioning to the viewers that you should actually go and get your feet measured when it is safe to do so. As in my experience of selling footwear over 80% of people don't know their correct street shoe size. Climbers can also be prone to sizing down in their street shoes as they become accustomed to that snug fit. I fell victim to this myself.
Keep up the great content and I look forward to the next one :)
Loll the end of your comment makes so much sense, and made me think of something I had not considered until now: After a cpl years of climbing and not buying any shoes beyond climbing shoes, I bought a pair of trail shoes... I've been size 11w my entire adult life, and when sizing the trail shoes it was the 9.5 that "fit". After a year of quarantining and no climbing, 9.5 feels a hell of a lot more snug than it ever has! 😅 ✌️
So Ill is super inconsistent in there sizing, Ive ordered a couple pairs all the same size but some way bigger then others. my size 11 new zero was a full size smaller then the size 11 Free Range pros I ordered ... I've tried to contact them about it but they didn't seem to care.
The idea of sizing for a particular brand is such an oversimplification, even leaving aside level of performance. Downcamber, softness, split sole, and especially upper material and lining (if any) all play a significant role.
For instance, I wear the La Sportiva Genius in size 38.5, Solution W in size 38, and Futura W in 37.5. I cannot physically fit my foot into a smaller pair of any of these, I have no dead space in the shoe, but nor am I in any major discomfort.
You left out what's your street shoe size, mate.
perfect fit comes with trial & error :)
every brand & even specific models will be sized differently.
best to try it in on in person, and if in doubt i’d usually get a 1/2 size larger than a 1/2 size too small coz i’ve learned my lesson - a shoe may not always “break in” if it’s truly not your size.
Sound logic. For the first pair of La Sportiva, I'd stay on the safe side and "SIZE UP" instead...like 1/2 to 1 size up.
Please do an episode on the current issues with climbers on K2
Only BD shoes I've tried are the Shadows, they honestly reminded me a lot of the old LS Solution in terms of shape: felt like Adam Ondra was squeezing my frontfoot while my heel slipped out without a problem. 😅 Wide forefoot with a shallow heel is a terrible combo for climbing feet.
SoIll are also incredibly big-foot unfriendly, though I'm guessing that has to do with them being a smaller company. When my street shoe size is their biggest carried size (US 13, last I checked), there's not exactly anywhere to go up from. Which is a shame, because aesthetics-wise I like their designs more than any other brand.
Go skwamas 1 size down, same problem for me. Tried alot but those fit pretty good. And with the velcro you can fit the heel pretty good
Every time Teresa talks about her Otakis she just has exactly the same opinion that I have about mines! I downsized them 1,5 also (from EU42 to EU40,5)
I normally wear EU43,5 and I wear Otakis EU42,5. Not a very big downsize but still, I feel they perform very good and my feet still hurt a bit after a pitch where I had to stand a lot on small edges.
Best timing ever the wall here is opening up and new pair of shoes
Love ur vids
I wore my scarpa helix 41 and got scarpa instinct vs 41 but its painful...does it get better? Helix fits me perfectly and wasnt as painful as instinct
adam ondra isn't wrong with 4 euro sizes down for la sportiva performance fit. 3 is a more comfortable performance fit, 2 is comfort that will probably last a while, while 1 size down is comfort that wont last long before it becomes too large.
It takes strong feet for sure, you have to be able to deflect the shoe completely instead of just collapsing under the stretch for full 4 downsizes, but it is the optimum performance fit.
Been hearing this downsizing guidance for years, and really feel it poor guidance. Been climbing for over 5 years, have had many pairs of shoes. Never managed to downsize. I've tried, and ended up selling on facebook because it felt like I was going to injure myself. Also, taking a poll of friends, almost no one I know downsizes more than 1/2, with the majority at Street shoe size. Regardless of brand, I've not found climbing shoe that I can downsize any amount. I typically fit my shoes so that the toes are just slightly curled under (knuckles are showing a bit on top), and absolutely no air in the heal. All three of my brands (5.10, La Sportiva, and Evolv) are at street size (5.10/LaSportiva), or higher. In the case of Evolv, I'm +1 size up from street size, and they're still snug enough that I must remove them after 10-15 mins of boldering. I'm sure there are people who downsize. Maybe they're better at absorbing massive amounts of pain, or maybe they're street shoes are size up larger (my street shoes are almost touching, but toes still wiggle free). Regardless, I feel the shoe vendors are setting false expectations, and hence risk someone new to the sport could injure themselves with a fit that is simply too small.
I downsized my La Sportiva Solutions 2.5 sizes and they fit amazingly. Could very well be that you either undersized your normal shoes, or just have a very wide foot!
your sharing is so being valued. really helpful. thank you!
I think it really depends on climbing style, shoe brands and your foot shape. For me, my la sportiva need to down 2 sizes and so ill is 0.5 upsize. Usually shoes will expand a little bit after wearing several times. I prefer to have tighter shoes and they perform greatly afterwards. But wearing new shoes is really painful.
The same here LaSportivas same size as casual, Evolv +1 than normal, that gives me still a tight fit, downsizing 2 it sounds ridiculous for me :o
@@AstrumG2V You're delusional.
Please do an episode for those of us beginners with larger, unwieldy feet. My street size is US 14.5, which Black Diamond doesn't make in Momentum, nor do most other shoe companies. The 14 was too tight to be comfortable, only due to the bone spurs? on top of my feet. I haven't found a 15 to try on yet.
My local gym rents 5.10 and 14 seems to have the same problem, with 15 being a bit loose. Where do I find my magic US 14.5 climbing shoe?
Have you looked at Boreal, Tenaya and Mad Rock? AFAIK they go upto EU50.
Check out butora gomi maybe?
@@amalinaosman1568 Not available here (the Netherlands) :( Closest I've gotten have been the Scarpa Instinct line (some heel baggage, but not much), Five Ten Dragon lace (but a bit too narrow in the front) and the Scarpa Drago LV (fit perfectly, but I'd need a different size on each foot). Think I've tried roughly 20 diff models in various sizes. Feel like god damn reverse Cinderella. Or Harry Potter wand shopping, but for feet
@@the.Aruarian I know the LV was meant for people with narrow feet. So maybe try the drago? Otherwise, have you tried looking at the scarpa veloce? Only recommending that one cause I managed to fit into my boyfriend's shoes and he has a more narrow/ average sized feet and im more wide and it fit like a glove.
@@amalinaosman1568 havent tried the veloce yet! The normal Drago gives me the same issue with heel bagginess, even downsizing more (44) than I do in my Instincts (45). Basically I'm an Instinct forefoot and Drago LV heel 😅
I love La Sportiva Solution, but I only downgrade half a grade to my streetshoe size.
La sportiva solution/comp down 2 full sizes, pythons 2.5 full sizes because they’re unlined. For tenaya mundaka down 1.5 full sizes. These fits are tight enough yet not so much that I have to rip them off between every boulder. Think I used to take street shoe size in old 510 team.
I am sorry... What do lined and unlined actually mean?
@@martinofinotelli1884 unlined means that the inside of the shoe won’t have an additional layer of fabric. Pythons are softer and more sensitive for it , and perhaps a little less sweaty in warmer weather. Solutions are fully lined, feel more robust and a bit thicker because of it. Lined shoes can stretch less and take a bit longer to break in.
My street shoe size is 40/41 depending on the shoe, and my La Sportivas are a 40. I tried downsizing the Kataki to 39.5 and can't even get into the shoe
My street shoe size is 42 and even trying Size 44 La Sportiva was pretty uncomfortable. So how in God's name can I fit into the recommended 2 sizes down at Size 38?
I wear american 11 and could not even get my foot in a 13 momentum. Currently have a 13.5 momentum and seems designed for fat feet. Anyone else have issues? Lower strap needs to be max out on tightness which cause it to fold in center very uncomfortable
The whole idea of only being able to reach peak performance by cramming your feet into a pair of shoes 2 sizes down just is just macho rubbish. Just buy what feels comfortable and whatever works for you.
The only soill shoes that you should get are their new shoes like the new street and stay shoes
Just do yourself a favor and get a pair of tenaya’s or unparalleled and you’ll be in like Flynn......also dig scarpa’s....great video✌🏽😃✌🏽
Yus! Would love to see a Scarpa comparison! 😄 I bought a pair of Maestros in my street shoe size as I wanted a stiff shoe and knew Scarpa sized quite small as I also have Scarpa hiking boots. Turned out I should have bought a FULL SIZE UP. I’ve been climbing my entire life and I’ve never had such painfully small shoes. But I live in NZ where there is a choice of about three different climbing shoes so sometimes you just have to buy blindly from overseas without getting to try them on 😂 Would definitely love to see some more comparisons!
How can I tell if I have a narrow medium or wide foot? what is the foot length to width ratio for each?:) can anyone help?
There are measuring charts for that! Measure the length of your feet, and then the length from the big toe knuckle to the pinky toe knuckle!
I've been climbing with Tenaya Oasi 41.5 and Mastia 42 on 7a ish routes
Street Shoes 43/44
I got the Oasi first and it was a pain to wear for long runs so I get the Mastia .5 up but it's wider by a lot... So my heel always pop off when heelhooking, really annoying
So I would say -2/2.5 for Tenaya
My shoes are weird because I wear my street shoes to big because im picky. I want my shoes either super tight or loose. So my climbing shoes are tight. I wear la sportiva and they are great. Worn scarps too but I feel like they streetcars out a bit and didn’t hold shape
How much does black diamond zone stretches over time?
Always a tricky thing sometimes...
I waer la sportiva finale(laced) 2.5 size down, they seem to break in fast, but they are still tight enough
Same and I think that are great. Mine held shape real well
I presume this comparison only applies if your street shoes are extremely oversized?
Or else you are way off.
What exactly does stretch mean? I mean the rand and sole are rubber that don't stretch...it's not like they are getting bigger, aren't they?
Stretching is more on the leather side and stretching "up" or "wide" but not long.
Am I correct? Cause I got a pair of shoes with the idea they will stretch half size, and so far the lenght is the same as brand new
Stretch will be lengthwise as well, but because of tensioned rubber a climbing shoe will contract over the course of a couple days to original size. A little warmup and the shoe will have the space back because the upper and/or liner will have stretched in initial break in sessions and then the rubber will warm allowing use of the full volume of the shoe.
it can stretch lengthwise as well - esp if it’s a lot of leather eg. 5.10’s anasazi moccasyms
i hate breaking in new shoes esp down turned stiff shoes so i found out the best way to expand it is to put plastic bags into each of your shoe and fill it up with water. tie the ends of the bags.
leave it in the freezer overnight and remove it to thaw and viola! your feet will thank you (of course if the shoe is really too small no amount of freezing can help)
@@samchu5335 to add, moccasyms have basically no tensioned rubber, and this is why the stretch is more obvious in them because the leather never gets drawn back by the rubber. Same with the mythos in always having that 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 size, but the same amount of stretch will be found in the futura and solution except those will regain a shape due to tensioned rubber.
And not a person who recommends prestretching a shoe. Only break in by climbing in em.
@@Cacovangor yeah some agree with breaking it in naturally but i can't :/ esp the rubbing of the heel and the crammed toes. i don't down size my shoes by much 1/2 at the most for hiangles but the pain is still out of this world that i'd just rather do other means to pre-stretch it .
i guess not everyone's pain tolerance is the same..
also, the performance of the shoe is not compromised in any way so i'll continue to do this method (for me at least)
if anything it makes climbing more comfortable even on my first climb as opposed to using plastic bags to slide my foot in - even if my foot is in, stepping hurts my feet too much esp on down turned shoes (flats are fine)
@@samchu5335 from that perspective of being for your comfort, absolutely no disagreement in that instance. Most of the time, the freezing method I hear is from folks downsizing massively, and being unable to fit in out the box. Sorry for the assumption
i go 10 sizes down from street shoe
Do scarpa please
For me -0.5
I thought the velcro/lace models of otaki/futura/katana/miura are identical in terms of foot shape ?!Why would you make lace&velcro, name it the same but make a different footshape?(2:49 graph) That seems very odd to me to be honest. Having tryed Kataki/Otaki Im very sure they are identical except their lace/velcro System. Cobra and Testarossa are way thinner than Otaki/Katana too. What should be mentioned in such a video or from the manufactures is that your feet volume/size varies over the day. You should not wake up and try a shoe as your feet are most likely smaller than after a day of walking. Saying "I use it xy sizes smaller" doesnt help someone else. It all depends on your foot shape and your level to sacrifice comfort. Do you have a wide or narrow foot, egyptian or greek footshape? Shoe modells are made for different types of feet so even though everyone wears for example a la sportiva solution, doesnt mean your footshape will fit in at all.
Swarma 4 eu size down
Holds LaSportiva Cobra and explains about trad shoes, really...?
😂🤣
You are so so beautiful Terresa!