N42/N46 Chain Replacement DIY Complete Guide PART #2: Installing chain, Guide rail, Seal & Timing
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 02. 2020
- Detailed DIY guide for replacing timing chain, chain guide rail and front main crankshaft oil seal on an E46 316ti BMW with N42 engine.
Plastic chain rail guides get brittle over time and can break which can cause the chain to jump a tooth on the chain sprockets.
Some of the symptoms of broken guide rail or jumped chain are long crank when engine is cold, hesitation, unresponsive low range operation when cold and increased fuel consumption. Engine will have very low compression when cold.
This procedure will be very similar on other BMW vehicles with N42 or N46 engines: 3 series (316i, 318i, 320i, 316ti, 318ti, 318ci), 1 series (116i, 118i, 120i), X1 series and Z4 series with 1.8/2.0 litre engines.
You must read and understand the service manual before attempting this procedure!
Part numbers:
- chain: 11317505608,
- rail guide: 11317512520, 11317505608,
- chain tensioner: 11318685091,
- VANOS bolts: 11367500574,
- crankshaft bolt: 11237503107,
- oil pan gasket: 11137511224,
- oil dipstick tube O-ring: 11437529257 ,
- oil pickup tube o-ring: 11417507756,
- front radial seal: 11117511395,
- VANOS solenoid o-rings: 11367546379, 11367506178,
- valve cover gasket: 11120032224,
- VALVETRONIC sensor connector flange gasket: 11377502022
Complete parts catalogue: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
Tools:
- N42/N46 crankshaft front oil seal tool: tinyurl.com/u7uo595
- N42/N46 timing toolkit. ebay.to/2HR8C9s
- N42/N46 holder and balancer toolkit: tinyurl.com/u4tcd9d
- engine support bar: tinyurl.com/qlkmdhn
Service manual:
- www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e4...
Disclaimer:
BimmerZen assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BimmerZen recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BimmerZen , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BimmerZen. BimmerZen assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BimmerZen recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BimmerZen , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BimmerZen. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hi BimmerZen. My wife has a 2004 318i with the N46 engine. I recently replaced the valve stem seals, timing chain, and the head gasket with the assistance of 3 of your series videos.
It's a long story and process, but I though that I had bent the exhaust valves during valve stem seal replacement, so I decided to pop the head off. Luckily no valves were bent, but I discovered that one of the cooling channels in the engine block, were almost fully filled with solid crystallised carbon. This confirmed to me that there was a leak between the coolant and oil through the old head gasket at some point. The carbon mass that I found in the coolant channel, probably formed when an independent mechanic poured coolant sealant into the system a few years ago, as we were experiencing a coolant loss. The sealant must have reacted with the oil. Needless to say this could have caused the engine to possibly overheat and blow the head gasket. I cleaned everything out of the coolant channels, cleaned the mating surfaces of the head and block, the exhaust ports (very thick carbon build-up), as well as heavy carbon deposits on the pistons. I also made sure that the mating surfaces were level throughout.
While I was there I decided to replace the timing chain with its guides, and the sump gasket as it was leaking some oil anyway. I also added new sparkplugs.
Put everything back together. Car started up the 1st time with no problems. It runs better than it ever had in our ownership. No more exhaust smoking and topping up with oil almost on a weekly basis in the end. There is still a rough idle that it had before I had opened it up, but it might be as simple as replacing the ignition coils or worst case the transmission valve body solenoids.
Anyhow, I want to thank you for posting these E46 maintenance videos as it's helped me a lot with keeping the BMW up to date and on the road, without breaking the bank. Every year I try to take on one big maintenance job with the BMW (and my Audi) just to keep it on the road for as long as possible. I've already flushed all the old fluids (transmission, brake, power steering, differential) with new fully synthetic fluids throughout the car last year. Again, I salute you for sharing your experience, knowledge, and expertise with regards to BMW maintenance. It is priceless.
Greetings from South Africa.
Awesome job and awesome comment:) Thank you for sharing your experience and helping other people with their DIY BMW maintenance👏👍
Hi BimmerZen,
I'm a 21 year old Italian guy and I recently bought my first car, a beautiful 2001 316ti with an N42 engine. Unfortunately, I got scammed. When I bought the car, I trusted the seller's word that the engine was fine, but when I got it home, it made a strange noise from the water pump belt that covered up the sound of a broken chain tensioner. So when I took it to the mechanic for a check-up, he opened it up and showed me the broken chain tensioner with the chain really loose. I was lucky that I took it to him right away, otherwise I risked breaking the engine if the chain jumped.
To be honest, I've never done any mechanical work before, so I'm starting from scratch. Since the mechanic wanted to charge me around €1000 to replace the timing chain, I declined his offer and decided to do the job myself. I also wanted to fix the squealing of the water pump belt which is very annoying.
Wish me luck! I'll be following your videos step by step. Hopefully I won't break the engine haha. Jokes aside, I really appreciate these videos that are a lifesaver for people like me who are poor but want to learn. This car is the result of a lot of hard work and sacrifice on my part without anyone's help, so I really care about it. Thank you so much for everything. I'll keep you updated on whether I succeed or mess everything up.
Best regards,
Just want to give you a massive thank you for this guide, I probably couldn't have finished the job without it. My car is running like a dream again 😊
A tip for anyone else I found an Endo camera immensely helpful to find the flywheel hole, also marking the flywheel where tdc position is so when you're counter holding the crank you can easily find tdc again when it moves a bit.
good job man! here in belgium they asked me 1000 euro just for work and they said they need to take off the engine :D
I have the parts and I don't know what to do
The best video replacing crank seal!
Awesome video man!! thanks for for being on market, I m sure your work is helping a lot of people!!
Hi neighbor!
I am following your videos from Hungary, Budapest!
really thanks for.those details and hopefully I don't have to go through this. but your video make me more confident now. Thanks.
This video was very comprehensive...I definitely feel I have a 95% chance of success doing this jod myself....thanks you very much bro...
Amazing work man! Well done!
big thanks for your work. you are probably the best youtuber out there, no matter if the numbers of your channel reflect that or not you are the best
Thank you man!
Very good job, well explained !!!😃
Thks Broo. U good mechanic BMW
Good work man 👍
Well-done great job.
Good Job mate!!!
Tank's man, when you don't have the tool for the crankshaft you can use the locking tools from the kit for timing chain, and put it jn first gear and maybe have some one press the brakes
That was absolutely brilliant, you are a star, thanks so much for helping us like this. I now have this to fall back on if I get stuck during my top end rebuild. ☃️🎄☃️🎄
Good job
Thank you.
verry cool, you work it alone
best thing i've watched on youtube well done fella how much to do mine lol
terimakasih sudah membantu dalam pekerjaan saya
AMAZING
Hi mate, E87 N46, if no broken plastic, does the sump need to come off?
Thanks 😊👍
Hi, after watching this video again ive checked with my mechanic and he did remove the oil pan or anything from the underneath when changing the timing chain and he definitely did not lock the balancing shafts when tightening. Do you think this will cause the vibrations in the car . And is it possible that the crankshaft could have slipped or moved outta place .
Thanks
Did you ever fix the performance issue, hesitation when pulling away from traffic lights. Curious to know how you fixed that issue. ✌️🏴
Sir, Thank you for all the effort you have done for others, to repair their car. Crank seal solution appreciated.I waited to see how you solved camshaft mis-alignment on intake. My 318i, n42B20A has jumped over two teeth, exhaust out by ~135 deg, and intake ~ 15 deg. NO BMW video covers this. Miniadventure covers this in a BMW n14 engine video. I cannot find a solution in a manual or internet, specifically with a method. Is the actuator removed, Vanos loose, or off, and rotate clockwise for each one mindful of springback at end? Have kit rear fitting to do this. The main issue is that people have not done these jobs before, and are not willing to take a chance, so any direction you can give here will be worthwhile. You have put a reliable resource together here for BMW car owners. Apprediated. Kind regards. M
"exhaust out by ~135 deg" ?? That's not just two teeth... i think:) You can reach me via bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com and we can exchange more information before I can give you any solid advice.
Perfect job! Btw it would be interesting if we could hear the engine sound before and after the procedure. Anyway, i assume the car behaved ok in the days after the change... Well done !
Engine sounded the same, but when cold it was totaly unresponsive. Sometimes i tried to pull from the traffic light and the car wont accellerate for a couple of seconds...
do you happen to know where to get a Valve Keeper Retainer for a 2008 120I 2.0, was doing the syem seals and lost one
will appreciate your help.
Search for part number 11341461405 (n42, n43, n46) You can also call your local BMW dealer that has spare parts department and just tell them the part number. They will order it for you if the dont have it in stock.
hello, do you know what is that metalic noise, when you starting engine? (1:08:50) i have the same noise sometimes and i thought it is because of loose timing chain
I think this is the rattle due to VANOS unit not being locked and/or poor oil check valve. I am still tying to test this idea right now so check out this video series: czcams.com/video/b4OabBfpa6Q/video.html I'm working on parts #2 and #3 right now.
Hi friend thanks for the lesson please can you do inform the how many newtons weight can i tied the crank pulley and the vanus bolts main camshaft
I do appeciate for your information.. regards friend
It's all in the video: VANOS bolts are 20Nm + 2x 90 deg; crankshaft bolt is 50Nm + 150 deg.
32:02 can you tell me please the dimensions in mm for the crank hub holding tool ? I need the between hole dimmension and the center hole dimmension. thank you!
Contact me on bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com
did the rtv on the seal ever fail
Hello. I only found torque spec for crank main bolt 400nm. You used different method, was it correct also to use smaller nm and then degrees?
50 Nm + 150 deg is in the manual
Hi BimmerZen, is it possible to replace the chain guide without removing/replacing the chain? my timing chain is in good condition but i noticed my guide was broken (top section) while replacing my valve stem seals. appreciate the help in advance
Luckily the chain guide rail is made out of two parts, so I think you can:
- remove VANOS units,
- remove VANOS solenoids,
- remove the 3 cover caps,
- remove guide journal bolts that are beneath the 3 caps,
- pull out complete guide assembly and separate top and bottom guide parts,
- take out both parts,
- reverse the process for installation.
Be careful removing the old rail - it's brittle and can break further, dropping pieces in to the engine. Make sure bottom part of the rail slides nicely on to the chain and sprocket - use a flashlight to inspect alignment from above once installed. Always keep the chain taught when rotating the crankshaft:)
@@BimmerZen This will save me a lot of work and parts.
I will replace the slide rail, chain tensioner, guide rail and the 2 x collar screws.
I'll also remove the oil pan to inspect for any broken pieces which I could of broken during valve stem seal replacement (engine rotation) and inspection of new guide after install.
I haven't had any issues with the engine but better safe than sorry :)
Thanks from Australia
@@SuperRickmack Sounds good. Drop a comment if all goes well and your oil consumption goes back to normal:) Good luck!
hey question what's the torque for the timing chain guide bolts didn't see it in the video
Top: M7 Guide pin 14 Nm
Bottom: M8 Bearing journal 20 Nm
hello bimmerzen, can u give me any advice about my car. 2006 320i e91 n46 engine. on inpa no error, no check engine, nothing. just, in 1st gear only 1 time in a day has hesitation and move very hard, some noise from engine,. accelerate and rpm drop to the 0. after 1 minute everything ok all day. tommorow same. could be that damn chain?
Check VANOS timing with INPA. Intake should be between 117 - 120, exhaust about 55-56 deg.
Link for part 1 please
Was the engine only supported by the top bar? So it wont move by torque the bolt to specs when off the subframe? Thanks
First you need to torque the main bolt to 50 Nm with the locking pin inserted. The final 150 deg rotation must be performed with the crankhub counter-holding tool - NOT the flywheel pin! This way the engine will not move significantly, since you hold it at the hub.
@@BimmerZen But there is an crank wheel locking tool for the automatic transmission to hold it instead of the crank hub > BMW Number 118660
hi, I see you saying that we need to tight crankshaft bolt to 50nm + 150", but I found on tis it is 300N.m. Can you please confirm it is correct?
According to torque specs in www.newtis.info for N40 / N42 / N45 / N46 it should be 50 Nm + 150 deg. Where did you find 300 Nm?
Hi. I've got little question about torque tightening bottom and upper bolt (12:07 and 12:36 on movie). It is also 10Nm like torx E bolts or hand tighten only? @@BimmerZen
Hello, you said after removing the pretensioning tool that we can use the "old tensioner " if we don't have a 0.6Nm torque wrench. Did you mean we can use the old tensioner or did you mean that we can use the new one? Because using the new tensioner would make a lot more sense.
Use the new one👍
@@BimmerZen hi and thanks for the lovely tutorials. I own a 316i and for quite sometime now I have been experiencing a noise coming from under the car in the region of what the engine meets tranny. It can mostly be heard when engine is facing upwards or slightly inclined or going up hills and under load. When on flat and idling car is very silent. No performance issues at all just the annoying noise. Was wondering if it can be timing chain. Sorry for the long text.
@@rennelstoute2348 On my 1997 M52 engine with 225k miles, it turned out to be the timing chain - the left side guide had disintegrated but fortunately the right-side guide was in one piece holding up the timing just fine. I believe the chain and pieces of guide were causing the rattling noise on an incline or going up hills, exactly as in your case.
ممتاز🎉
Good Job..one question...how Many kms can work this chain and guide ...untill the Next chance?... thanks..
Plastic gets brittle over time and heat cycles, so probably 10 Years or 200.000 km.
Hi, i have a bmw 116i e87 2005 (115hp). The mexhanic replace the o 2 sensors.... but...the upstream conector have a (yelow oring seal) and the downstream has the (green oring seal). The are mixed?? Or....it's the same o2 sensor but with leght cable diference?? Help please.
From what I can tell they are same sensors with different length of cable and different connectors. They have different part numbers:
- precat: 11787530287 (L=620MM)
- postcat: 11787530285 (L=460MM)
@@BimmerZen
Okay....thank you.
I will alway inspect the ignition coils....i am assuming a missfire with no code under acelaration....it can mess the o2 sensors...and cause a slow response signal P0133?
@@BimmerZen Do you know the best sperk plug for this model? Recommended one....bosh? Ngk??... thanks
@@fernandoramalho3644 i have used both NKG and BOSCH brands without issues
@@BimmerZen do you know the part reference of a BOSH spark plug? 4 poles? Or 1?
two times 60 degrees and then 30 degrees, what would that be in nm ?
Those are the specs from the manual, I doubt you can convert it to Nm.
@@BimmerZen thats alright, i did folow you just the same as in the clip and the engine is running smooth. thx for the clip.
hey, what to do if I did everything according to the instructions, but after a trial rotation, the timing jumps
did you check if the VANOS units are locked?
Yes .so looks as if something is blocking ,vanos turns and this front plate stops and sahwile turns again. after rotation, the locks do not fit back
@@lewar000 Look up the email in my channel info and contact me there
Does the oil pump have a position? What would happen if it is not in the correct position?
Oil pump itself has no "special" position, but the balancing shafts do and they are driven by the oil pump shaft, so in fact, position is as important as for the crankshaft.
@@BimmerZen I changed the head gasket and did the timing, I did it in my garage and I have no chance to remove the crankcase and align the balance shafts.
My question is if I could assemble the rest and go to a workshop to align the axles, what do you think?
Could the engine break down on the way to the shop?
@@pitu93 I did some testing with the oil sump removed. I managed to replace the chain without disturbing the balancing shafts, but I was very carefull not to rotate the crankshaft in the whole procedure. It's a good chance that the balancing shafts are still in timing, provided that you haven’t rotated the crankshaft with the crankbolt loosend. In that case I would suggest to reassemble everything and just drive the car. If there is no change in noise/vibration, you are OK. In case there is noise/vibration after the repair, you will have to remove the oil sump and make sure the balancing shafts are back in position and engine is retimed.
Por favor puedes compartir el manual del ensamblado del motor . Más culata. Gracias .. dios lo bendiga..
www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ (free registration required)
👍 yes god
How much should I expect to pay for a job like this patrs and labour ?
To many variables to give you a good answer... what i can say is that basic parts cost around 100 eur, but it can be up to 180 eur if you change other parts, such as valve cover gasket...
@@BimmerZen I´ll have to do the whole timing chain on the exact same car. Right now my chain is loose (I poked it with a screwdriver thru the oilcap hole and it was loose, the car runs but engine doesent sound healthy). My main concer is if it is safe to drive it to the shop to get the work done or I shouldn´t risk it and get it towed there. I´m scared that if it will jump a tooth or fall off( if that is even possible I don´t know) and if the chain skipping a tooth could kill the engine. In part one you said your chain also skipped a tooth and it still worked so this rly boggles my mind.
@@lukasovysilenosti skipping one tooth wont kill the engine. I drove this car with two teeth jumped without problems for 50km. I think you can get the car to the shop, but be carefull you dont jerk the engine (like stop n go on hill) and go very soft on the engine. But of course, its your call if you want the car to be towed....
@@BimmerZen I´ll get it towed. Today I took a closer look and the top chainguide is loose so some plastic may be and probably is broken. I wont risk the engine getting littered with plastic over few euros. But thanks for the info. It is much apriciated.
@@lukasovysilenosti OK, safe choice. Just some additional clarification. The top plastic part is designed to slide front to back about 3mm. If you can swing it left to right for more than a couple of mm, then it's probably broken.
Allways change o-rings!!..1 o-rings liftime is 5 years!
The belt suck in the seal would damage the timing chain assembly and cause it to not start or it move timing and are this cars interference
Sorry, I don't understand your question... And yes, these N42/N46 engines are interference engines.
@@BimmerZen my serpentine belt got stuck in to the crank pulley and my car wont start and I open the pully and thers broken parts of the chain assembly what u recommended
@@jorarr5174 im still confused.. how could a serpetine belt be stuck on the pulley and how it can cause the chain to jump or break the guide rail?? When you say you removed the pulley you mean you removed the central crankshaft bolt and then saw broken pieces inside the engine?
@@BimmerZen yeah the chain assembly there was parts broken and some parts from the serpentine belt ass well and my car womt start engine wont turn
@@BimmerZen yeah I remove the crank bolt but parts of the chain assembly were broken of
¨maybe i can pay you to fix my sons car bmw 318 ti compact :)
Too slow
When unscrewing the screw from the shaft, I'm afraid that I will lose the GMP setting if I unscrew on the pulled pin ?? What if this happens and after unscrewing the shaft screw I will not be able to press the pin at the bottom??