i have used a Branick over many years it is the best spring compressor on the market others are good but just do not perform as well .well worth the money ! Aussie mechanic Sydney
I usually tie nylon strapping (the stuff you'd get on a ratchet strap) round the length of the spring (with a reef knot) before releasing the top nut just for a bit of extra safety in case it decides to jump. Using 3 or 4 of these evenly distributed around the spring in additional to the 'cheap' spring compressor is a decent safety measure. Yet another tip I picked up off CZcams that's saved me getting a spring in the face.
my shop has a similar unit and works great. Although one time i was holding the strut up and the spring decided to spin out but luckily it just kicked my hand out and i was un injured. Always remember when working with springs that even with the right tools it can be dangerous.
Yes there are very explicit instructions in the user manual that comes with the Branick unit explaining exactly how to position the spring for different kinds of struts and coilovers. Most people who experience a spring popping out of a Branick have not followed the instructions correctly or have not bothered to read the manual in the first place.
As I've gotten older, and less immortal, I tend to lean toward slightly safer tooling like this. There's still a huge amount of stored energy in a compressed coil spring. I have a healed broken wrist from one of the smaller tools, that I bought in the 1970's, cutting loose while I tightened it with a box end wrench. It was in use on a '78 Scirocco spring set. I'm replacing the springs on my 2009 Impala SS with some Moog variable rate units along with some Buick Lacrosse Super Bilstein struts this week and I bought one of these for the job. I'll be doing springs on my 2005 Impala SS and 2005 Jetta TDI along with several other cars in the next few months and I don't trust other folks to take the kind of assembly care I will. I figure I can re-sell a lightly used clean 7600 in the original box for a decent price on evilbay if I need to.
Hi Eric, long time viewer. Just wanted to pop in and let you know how much I love the 60FPS format (not sure how long you've been doing that). Looks so much smoother and better!
The ETCG Shop is becoming much more safer! First, the BendPak lift and now the Branick 7600. I always hated that old spring compressor tool and I just watched the video! Congratulations!!
Great! Wish I had one of those. Or the room for it, anyway. But one thing about the conventional compressors: all user manuals state you shouldn't use the simple spring compressors you just discarded with power tools, only by hand. It takes more time, but it's a lot safer.
vibration and uneven tension. You need to keep the compression equal around the spring, With the impact it is easy to get one compressor tighter/looser and then the spring can shift and pop free.
er ma gerd. I used a mcpherson spring compressor bought from auto zone for like $40 to remove then install stiffer springs on my Land rover discovery 1. It worked because it was used properly and not with zip ties. I took my time with a manual wrench one turn of the screw per side until it was compressed enough. Seriously though, I'm glad you didnt die in the spring incidents.
Anyone who does this for a living knows those cheap spring compressors are always dangerous. If it worked for you then it means you got lucky that your face is not broken and you have all your teeth still.
Eric, I have a 2000 Accord and I remember that I replaced my front struts using that triangular spring compressor. It was not fun, I had to put it on the floor horizontally; but even having 7200 Branick spring compressor in the shop, one of my coworkers recommended to use that triangular spring compressor. Kind of crazy, no?
The first failed unit seems like the same one I have; a Blue-Point unit at $50+. I gave up on replacing the damper; simply change the entire assy unless a damper has obvious leak.
Never used the little cheap spring compressors out of pure fear. Have used Snap-on and other units like this.. it truly is the only way to compress a spring. Even if you have to beg/borrow time at a local shop, To have access to such a tool.. WAY WAY more confidence when using it. I have herd too many horror stories. Just the look of the cheap units.. never wanted to even try them.
***** Well maybe it just had a snap-on budging on it. It was at a large shop i worked for at the time. Not mine. But what ever company made it. Still much safer..
***** not saying you can't. Just saying I will not. If you are comfortable using the smaller Spring compressors. Or other alternative methods. Don't let me stop ya. I just feel safer with the larger wall mounted units.
Well it's time for me to buy a new strut compressor after 39 years in business, obviously this won't work on early Z cars (rear-clamshell only) but does the bottom left arm pivot on this 7600? I tried to do a small rear strut job today on a 7400 and the left bottom arm is fixed in one position, so I could not safely use the tool. Hopefully this 7600 pivots. Nice Video!
i am struggling with my GMC savana 2001 2500 5.7L V8 front coil springs .took me over 8 hours to replace just one of them .can not find a video or the proper tool to compress the spring . any thoughts ??? please help
Don’t put you face by the spring it can fly out ( also recommend a pair of vice grips clamped on spring so it does not rotate under pressure it does happen sometimes when removing the nut .
All that fancy equipment to compress a spring....man, when i was a kid I bought a $8.00 package of those common spring compressors or reducers....and bought some longer bolts to use and compressed my own springs with wrenches...took time....but it was safe and never slipped. My own idea too when i was 23.
I have a 98 Honda Accord. It seems to drop power at random times and electrical also seems to deplete here and there. I have tried a few different things, but I have been following you for about 6 months now and learned everything I did so far to my car from you. Maybe if you have a few minutes you can help me solve the problem for good? Id appreciate it more than you know.
I hate how these have trouble with smaller diameter springs like on Honda's and Miatas. The lower fingers need more adjustment to get in better. big macpherson struts are cake with it.
Will this unit work on 04 And 17 Subaru forester front struts? Is will it allow you to pull the Spring out of the compressor and re compress it example if you were changing out the Springs only🤔
The two pieces tool is ok and fast, last 36 years I use it ,it never jump once,make sure not use the touch points are round ,that one easy jump,buy the touch points are flat.I bought new one ,because some models springs, 2 pieces cant compress enough or can't fit into the it.
How large are the concrete wall anchors you used? And I noticed you have two anchors on the sides of the back plate, any reason? I am getting ready to mount mine in the next week or so , its been sitting in the back room for a while waiting for time and a good spot on the wall. I thinking by the wheel balancer and tire mounting area would make sense.
Eric, I'm having trouble deciding which kind to get for Mercedes C Class struts. They have a very short strut in relation to the spring and need to be compressed way down. The manual pair I have just won't cut it at all. Will this one work for these struts?
Thanks for the tool demo. I'm a DIYer/shadetree mechanic and I have the older model Branick 7200 that I bought new several years ago. I wall mounted mine but because of limited space I take it down to store after each use. Mine weighs about 100 lbs. I was thinking of upgrading but due to space considerations I haven't decided yet.
Yeah the OTC is definitely superior to the older Branicks, like the 7200, for sure. Not necessarily the case when comparing it to the latest Branick 7600. I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick was perfect out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick. A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals.
I think this is the first video of yours I've watched since you've been on instagram, that you haven't ended saying 'and now instagram' I was wondering how long it wouod be before you stopped saying that EricTheCarGuy !
Last time i changed springs i did it compressing the spring between the Entrance gate of my house and the wall behind it... ahaha thx god i'm still alive..
Wonder if that thing would handle the strut springs in the '07 - up GM Silverado / Sierra? Those springs have the heaviest wire-size and strength I've ever seen in my life! When I installed Bilstein struts 3 years ago, I bent my "heavy duty" floor-mounted (but chinese ...) strut compressor, and didn't even budge the spring one half of one millimeter ... YIKES! Went to a couple garages in town - nobody had a press that could handle it! Was forced to go to the dealer. $90 just to have them swapped out, but had to do what I had to do. :( I actually was surprised that's all they charged, being GM and all ...
im a professional mechanic and i have used the little spring compressors in the past and have no trouble using them, it seems that Eric 1. didn't compress the spring enough and 2. didn't spread the load evenly around the spring so it violently unsprung if he done it correctly he would have had no trouble what so ever, but i do use the more professional grade tools all the time and they are better.
I bought that tool as well and my shop was jealous as their are air operated and couldnt do a stiffer than nornal coil.... f150 pickup with cheap body kit. No need for air only man power!!
I got this one, if you move the three top lock pins from the top holes to the bottom holes,then should enough room to fit air gun,you can check this company youtube video.
I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. Also, the stand that it comes with should be beefier. I noticed that the stand sags and leans a bit under the weight of the compressor, and that is before mounting a heavy strut assembly or coil over. If you have a spare sturdy engine stand lying around, you might want to use that instead of getting the stand with the STE. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick 7600 I received arrived in perfect shape out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick. A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft properly (via a D, torx or hex on the top of the shaft) and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals. Some struts are manufactured with flats on the upper portion of the chrome flats, that will work too.
I've not seen anyone that rents the tool out, it's pretty big at 100 lbs. and that is without its stand or mount. Most shops around my location will remove or install your spring on your strut for about $80 - $100, but they do the work. None that I've seen will allow you, as a customer, to come in and use their equipment to do your own work due to their liability insurance not allowing that (at least that is what they all say). Best bet is if you are on real friendly terms with the owner of a local independent shop that might allow you to use their equipment.
The branick is best(and if you do 3-4 jobs its paid for, even DIY), but the OEM 25550 (that is one brand, there are a few companies who make them, Advance and Autzone rents them) is a safe suicide stick. The ones that popped in the video should be illegal. Avoid HF spring compressors at any cost. I sometimes bring struts to NAPA machine shop and $40-50 bucks they take care of it.
EricTheCarGuy Do you have any tips for the inevitable situation when the top nut starts to back off but catches the rust on the threads (or its a vinyl locknut) and just ends up spinning the entire shaft of the gas shock?
MrWalkerklondyke Yes. Put more tension on the nut by loosening the compression on the spring and use an impact. I'll be covering this in an upcoming video where I replace the struts on my Vigor.
To each his own, but after screwing around with the crappy components (especially mounts, bearings and spring seats) used in the "big name" quick strut assemblies (KYB, Monroe, Gabriel and even Sachs) I've come to the conclusion that if QUALITY is your goal, you just can't beat using a tool like the Branick 7600 to properly (and safely) rebuild an OE strut using a quality damper cartridge (Sachs, KYB, etc), OE new strut mounts and bearings (if needed) and OE new strut components (again if needed). No one seems to really build a quick strut that is comparable to the quality inherent to the OE equipment of the major auto manufacturers. And discarding your OE spring in favor of the one size fits all quick strut spring is a big loss in my opinion. Bottom line, the quick struts are cheap, fast, and easy (especially for the DIYer). But they are a compromise at best, in my opinion. But if QUALITY is what you are after, with a ride close to what you had originally, rebuilding your OE strut with top quality, hand selected OE components and your OE springs has proven to be a much better approach in my experience. You want it done without compromise, rebuild it. And if you want it done right, rebuild it yourself. So that's what I decided to do: treated myself to a Branick 7600 just like the one in this video. You don't have to mount it to the wall, btw. Branick sells a freestanding (albeit pricey) steel stand for the unit, and a much more affordable bench mount stand which is simple to mount to any benchtop 28" or higher. I went with option B in this case, and it is mounted to one of my workbenches. The Branick is not cheap, but it is my far the best and safest approach to disassembling and assembling difficult struts like the Chrysler minivan shown in this video, as well as others such as the Jeep Cherokee, Toyota RAV4 and coilovers from cars such as the F150, Camaro and others.
I have none of those tools. I've used a floor jack to compress the spring while it's all still attached to the car. It's not perfect but it seems a lot safer than cheap spring compressors.
I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick was perfect out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick. A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals.
WHY DOES NO ONE USE HAND COMPRESSORS RIGHT OMG. All you have to do is use them on both sides of the spings make sure they are even on both sides and it dosen't go flying you just wasted $750 to save a couple minutes. I took my focus springs out to cut them and I used the hand compressors and all it did was pop up a little bit.
Caleb Jj And not use an impact to tighten them. I've used those 'crappy' ones for years with regular ratchets without incident. I dont know which would be faster, but in the time it took him to setup that spring I could already have mine compressed. I'm not knocking Eric, but I do think his use of the other spring compressors is the direct reason for them flying apart.
I've used hand compressors with ratchets for years, but they scare me tbh. Some (smaller) cars have very awkward struts that don't inspire confidence with the hook-style compressors!
Gah,spendy tool. But if you do a lot of struts/springs/etc,completely worth it. Those other tools are so damn sketchy,I'd never use them. I'd buy the complete 'quick strut' assembly,if possible. I'd like to keep my head attached to my shoulders,thanks.
Shame that thing is so expensive... I despise the small hand-held spring-compressors -- those things are death. But there are *very* few DIYers who can afford this wall-mounted tool. If it were a couple hundred bucks, I could justify it... But not for $750... Damn shame... It's *so* superior to the hand-held type of compressor. I guess the trick is to find a shop that has one and hope that the owner is nice enough to let you use it -- or pay him/her $20 to pull your springs off and onto new struts for you.
ill be building one sadly its build or buy china junk or this thing i can not afford i mean 700+ bucks or 120.00 junk irritating so off to the steal store aka junk yard
Why do you always say the company hooked you up with the tool as if they gave it to you free. Is that your way of sending a hint to the company to give you free tools and you will advertise for them.
Stop undoing them with impact air tools then ffs!!! Tighten the compressors until the spring is compressed and loose, and undo the strut by hand. You made it dangerous for yourself I'm afraid. The rest of the world has enough sense to manage it safely.
We got one of these a couple of months ago, the best tool ever for replacing struts. Not cheap but definitely recommend it .
I love that system. First starting using them in vocational school. I wish I had one for my home shop.
i have used a Branick over many years it is the best spring compressor on the market others are good but just do not perform as well .well worth the money ! Aussie mechanic Sydney
I usually tie nylon strapping (the stuff you'd get on a ratchet strap) round the length of the spring (with a reef knot) before releasing the top nut just for a bit of extra safety in case it decides to jump. Using 3 or 4 of these evenly distributed around the spring in additional to the 'cheap' spring compressor is a decent safety measure. Yet another tip I picked up off CZcams that's saved me getting a spring in the face.
Nice! You've been making me jealous lately with all these new tool acquisitions!
This garage is getting better every day.
my shop has a similar unit and works great. Although one time i was holding the strut up and the spring decided to spin out but luckily it just kicked my hand out and i was un injured. Always remember when working with springs that even with the right tools it can be dangerous.
Yes there are very explicit instructions in the user manual that comes with the Branick unit explaining exactly how to position the spring for different kinds of struts and coilovers. Most people who experience a spring popping out of a Branick have not followed the instructions correctly or have not bothered to read the manual in the first place.
Very good Eric! I'm happy for you!
As I've gotten older, and less immortal, I tend to lean toward slightly safer tooling like this. There's still a huge amount of stored energy in a compressed coil spring.
I have a healed broken wrist from one of the smaller tools, that I bought in the 1970's, cutting loose while I tightened it with a box end wrench. It was in use on a '78 Scirocco spring set.
I'm replacing the springs on my 2009 Impala SS with some Moog variable rate units along with some Buick Lacrosse Super Bilstein struts this week and I bought one of these for the job. I'll be doing springs on my 2005 Impala SS and 2005 Jetta TDI along with several other cars in the next few months and I don't trust other folks to take the kind of assembly care I will. I figure I can re-sell a lightly used clean 7600 in the original box for a decent price on evilbay if I need to.
Very well said, and I could not agree with you more.
Hi Eric, long time viewer. Just wanted to pop in and let you know how much I love the 60FPS format (not sure how long you've been doing that). Looks so much smoother and better!
Hey Eric I'm 11 and I do lots of small engines and I know a almost everything on how a car engine and my dad is an awesome mechanic nice vid
The ETCG Shop is becoming much more safer! First, the BendPak lift and now the Branick 7600. I always hated that old spring compressor tool and I just watched the video! Congratulations!!
Great! Wish I had one of those. Or the room for it, anyway. But one thing about the conventional compressors: all user manuals state you shouldn't use the simple spring compressors you just discarded with power tools, only by hand. It takes more time, but it's a lot safer.
Martin Krijgsman Prob due to transferring vibrations through setup right.
vibration and uneven tension. You need to keep the compression equal around the spring, With the impact it is easy to get one compressor tighter/looser and then the spring can shift and pop free.
Great material as always, keep it up!
congrats eric you earned it
Eric, Now thats one of your very best decisions, Much safer and really nice :-)
Finally, Eric's graduated from Harbor Freight to real shop tools.
SATAMAN Schmidt hahaha
Still using power tools instead of air tools
do what air tools suck well mostly other than say body @@TheKillingHitmarker
Awesome video Eric! I've used a previous version of this tool on small Honda struts and it worked flawless. Keep up the good work!
That one's really nice. Personally, I like the OTC Struttamer Extreme.
Eric !!
Excellent buy !!!
Eric mate, you get to play with all the best toys
er ma gerd. I used a mcpherson spring compressor bought from auto zone for like $40 to remove then install stiffer springs on my Land rover discovery 1. It worked because it was used properly and not with zip ties. I took my time with a manual wrench one turn of the screw per side until it was compressed enough. Seriously though, I'm glad you didnt die in the spring incidents.
Anyone who does this for a living knows those cheap spring compressors are always dangerous. If it worked for you then it means you got lucky that your face is not broken and you have all your teeth still.
Eric, I have a 2000 Accord and I remember that I replaced my front struts using that triangular spring compressor. It was not fun, I had to put it on the floor horizontally; but even having 7200 Branick spring compressor in the shop, one of my coworkers recommended to use that triangular spring compressor. Kind of crazy, no?
The first failed unit seems like the same one I have; a Blue-Point unit at $50+.
I gave up on replacing the damper; simply change the entire assy unless a damper has obvious leak.
Never used the little cheap spring compressors out of pure fear. Have used Snap-on and other units like this.. it truly is the only way to compress a spring. Even if you have to beg/borrow time at a local shop, To have access to such a tool.. WAY WAY more confidence when using it. I have herd too many horror stories. Just the look of the cheap units.. never wanted to even try them.
***** Well maybe it just had a snap-on budging on it. It was at a large shop i worked for at the time. Not mine. But what ever company made it. Still much safer..
***** not saying you can't. Just saying I will not. If you are comfortable using the smaller Spring compressors. Or other alternative methods. Don't let me stop ya. I just feel safer with the larger wall mounted units.
nice eric when you review all these tools do you get a discount on them or are they free
nice piece of equipment safer than most things I'v seen out there.
Well it's time for me to buy a new strut compressor after 39 years in business, obviously this won't work on early Z cars (rear-clamshell only) but does the bottom left arm pivot on this 7600? I tried to do a small rear strut job today on a 7400 and the left bottom arm is fixed in one position, so I could not safely use the tool. Hopefully this 7600 pivots. Nice Video!
i am struggling with my GMC savana 2001 2500 5.7L V8 front coil springs
.took me over 8 hours to replace just one of them .can not find a video
or the proper tool to compress the spring . any thoughts ??? please help
great tools friend
Don’t put you face by the spring it can fly out ( also recommend a pair of vice grips clamped on spring so it does not rotate under pressure it does happen sometimes when removing the nut .
All that fancy equipment to compress a spring....man, when i was a kid I bought a $8.00 package of those common spring compressors or reducers....and bought some longer bolts to use and compressed my own springs with wrenches...took time....but it was safe and never slipped. My own idea too when i was 23.
I have a 98 Honda Accord. It seems to drop power at random times and electrical also seems to deplete here and there. I have tried a few different things, but I have been following you for about 6 months now and learned everything I did so far to my car from you. Maybe if you have a few minutes you can help me solve the problem for good? Id appreciate it more than you know.
I hate how these have trouble with smaller diameter springs like on Honda's and Miatas. The lower fingers need more adjustment to get in better.
big macpherson struts are cake with it.
Will this unit work on 04 And 17 Subaru forester front struts? Is will it allow you to pull the Spring out of the compressor and re compress it example if you were changing out the Springs only🤔
The two pieces tool is ok and fast, last 36 years I use it ,it never jump once,make sure not use the touch points are round ,that one easy jump,buy the touch points are flat.I bought new one ,because some models springs, 2 pieces cant compress enough or can't fit into the it.
How large are the concrete wall anchors you used? And I noticed you have two anchors on the sides of the back plate, any reason? I am getting ready to mount mine in the next week or so , its been sitting in the back room for a while waiting for time and a good spot on the wall. I thinking by the wheel balancer and tire mounting area would make sense.
Eric, I'm having trouble deciding which kind to get for Mercedes C Class struts. They have a very short strut in relation to the spring and need to be compressed way down. The manual pair I have just won't cut it at all. Will this one work for these struts?
The branick 7600 strut compressor is the best strut compressor Ive ever used,bar none.
Great tool....getting a floor spring compressor changed the game for me....fear gone.
Thanks for the tool demo. I'm a DIYer/shadetree mechanic and I have the older model Branick 7200 that I bought new several years ago. I wall mounted mine but because of limited space I take it down to store after each use. Mine weighs about 100 lbs. I was thinking of upgrading but due to space considerations I haven't decided yet.
The latest Branick 7600 is a whole heck of a lot better than the 7200.
IF I COMPRESS THE SPRING WITH CLAMPS..DO I HAVE TO DO ANY MODIFICATIONS TO THE SHOCKS
IMO, the OTC strut tamer extreme is superior. I had an older branick at work that got replaced by an OTC.
Yeah the OTC is definitely superior to the older Branicks, like the 7200, for sure. Not necessarily the case when comparing it to the latest Branick 7600.
I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick was perfect out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick.
A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals.
This tool have stand with wheels you can fit on it,lot people just mount on the wall.
They also have a bench top mounting plate that works very well for around $60. Just need to mount it to a bench that is at least 28" high.
Thanks for another great vid, but where is Elvis?
Have you or anyone used one of the Timmart 1 Ton 2200 LBS Auto Strut Coil Spring Compressor Air Hydraulic Tool ?
What video did Eric use the scissor strut spring compressor in?
Great tool review. This tool is sure not for a DIY mechanic instead the best for a shop.
Speak for yourself my friend! I'm DIY and I own one.....
I think this is the first video of yours I've watched since you've been on instagram, that you haven't ended saying 'and now instagram'
I was wondering how long it wouod be before you stopped saying that EricTheCarGuy !
Amazing!
Last time i changed springs i did it compressing the spring between the Entrance gate of my house and the wall behind it... ahaha thx god i'm still alive..
You are a brave soul.
Daniele Dal Col. holy fuck, dude. You gave me a good laugh! Us at home mechanics gotta use what we got!
What would happen if you cut the spring?
Wonder if that thing would handle the strut springs in the '07 - up GM Silverado / Sierra? Those springs have the heaviest wire-size and strength I've ever seen in my life!
When I installed Bilstein struts 3 years ago, I bent my "heavy duty" floor-mounted (but chinese ...) strut compressor, and didn't even budge the spring one half of one millimeter ... YIKES!
Went to a couple garages in town - nobody had a press that could handle it! Was forced to go to the dealer. $90 just to have them swapped out, but had to do what I had to do. :( I actually was surprised that's all they charged, being GM and all ...
Done that more than once with a regular Facom comressor. More like 600 but Worth it
im a professional mechanic and i have used the little spring compressors in the past and have no trouble using them, it seems that Eric 1. didn't compress the spring enough and 2. didn't spread the load evenly around the spring so it violently unsprung if he done it correctly he would have had no trouble what so ever, but i do use the more professional grade tools all the time and they are better.
And i use a 5 Buck DIY version I could sit on and it works since 10 years.... Eric you have way to much money to spend on tools 😉
Now lets see ya use it on the fairmont project ;).
It's the best on the market.
I bought that tool as well and my shop was jealous as their are air operated and couldnt do a stiffer than nornal coil.... f150 pickup with cheap body kit. No need for air only man power!!
Excellente!
I got this one, if you move the three top lock pins from the top holes to the bottom holes,then should enough room to fit air gun,you can check this company youtube video.
Nice!
Its great to see a tool review of a professional tool. Maybe you should start a new channel aimed at your professional viewers.
Just bought mine for $690, free freight shipping, no tax at cpo outlets.
Y'all think it would be ok to mount it to harbor freight hand truck?
Miss the no-tax days.... it might knock over your HF hand truck. I used the bench mount, works great.
what do you think of OTC Strut Tammer extreme compare to this one?
I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. Also, the stand that it comes with should be beefier. I noticed that the stand sags and leans a bit under the weight of the compressor, and that is before mounting a heavy strut assembly or coil over. If you have a spare sturdy engine stand lying around, you might want to use that instead of getting the stand with the STE. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick 7600 I received arrived in perfect shape out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick.
A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft properly (via a D, torx or hex on the top of the shaft) and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals. Some struts are manufactured with flats on the upper portion of the chrome flats, that will work too.
You should look into getting yourself a hydraulic press for doing jobs like the wheel bearings on that Pathfinder
Brian W I'm working on it.
+EricTheCarGuy harbor freight has a decent 50 ton press that is more than youll ever need but will be much more affordable
Can you rent one of these somewhere I don’t feel like spending $800 on something I’m only going to use once
I've not seen anyone that rents the tool out, it's pretty big at 100 lbs. and that is without its stand or mount. Most shops around my location will remove or install your spring on your strut for about $80 - $100, but they do the work. None that I've seen will allow you, as a customer, to come in and use their equipment to do your own work due to their liability insurance not allowing that (at least that is what they all say). Best bet is if you are on real friendly terms with the owner of a local independent shop that might allow you to use their equipment.
excellent
Hi, do you giving away the "terrible compressor"?
this thing is heavy, what kind of screws you using to mount it on the wall?
Use some hefty lag bolts to mount into studs.
The branick is best(and if you do 3-4 jobs its paid for, even DIY), but the OEM 25550 (that is one brand, there are a few companies who make them, Advance and Autzone rents them) is a safe suicide stick. The ones that popped in the video should be illegal. Avoid HF spring compressors at any cost. I sometimes bring struts to NAPA machine shop and $40-50 bucks they take care of it.
It looks a lot like the old Mac 720 strut spring compressor.
Check out my new spring compressor. czcams.com/video/GNESfoC-Zrk/video.html
EricTheCarGuy good review. definatly would recommend this to anyone who works with springs often. be safe and stay dirty lol
A few more weeks, and it would have been your new summer compressor.
EricTheCarGuy Do you have any tips for the inevitable situation when the top nut starts to back off but catches the rust on the threads (or its a vinyl locknut) and just ends up spinning the entire shaft of the gas shock?
My shop has one just like that except it's about 25 years old
MrWalkerklondyke Yes. Put more tension on the nut by loosening the compression on the spring and use an impact. I'll be covering this in an upcoming video where I replace the struts on my Vigor.
Awesome tool. But it's way too expensive for the average DIYer. If and when I ever get my BendPak lift, I want one of those nearby.
I just lay the strut on the floor and let that facker fly
They are almost as scary as a garage door spring.
To each his own, but after screwing around with the crappy components (especially mounts, bearings and spring seats) used in the "big name" quick strut assemblies (KYB, Monroe, Gabriel and even Sachs) I've come to the conclusion that if QUALITY is your goal, you just can't beat using a tool like the Branick 7600 to properly (and safely) rebuild an OE strut using a quality damper cartridge (Sachs, KYB, etc), OE new strut mounts and bearings (if needed) and OE new strut components (again if needed). No one seems to really build a quick strut that is comparable to the quality inherent to the OE equipment of the major auto manufacturers. And discarding your OE spring in favor of the one size fits all quick strut spring is a big loss in my opinion.
Bottom line, the quick struts are cheap, fast, and easy (especially for the DIYer). But they are a compromise at best, in my opinion. But if QUALITY is what you are after, with a ride close to what you had originally, rebuilding your OE strut with top quality, hand selected OE components and your OE springs has proven to be a much better approach in my experience. You want it done without compromise, rebuild it. And if you want it done right, rebuild it yourself. So that's what I decided to do: treated myself to a Branick 7600 just like the one in this video. You don't have to mount it to the wall, btw. Branick sells a freestanding (albeit pricey) steel stand for the unit, and a much more affordable bench mount stand which is simple to mount to any benchtop 28" or higher. I went with option B in this case, and it is mounted to one of my workbenches. The Branick is not cheap, but it is my far the best and safest approach to disassembling and assembling difficult struts like the Chrysler minivan shown in this video, as well as others such as the Jeep Cherokee, Toyota RAV4 and coilovers from cars such as the F150, Camaro and others.
I have none of those tools. I've used a floor jack to compress the spring while it's all still attached to the car. It's not perfect but it seems a lot safer than cheap spring compressors.
I've never had a problem when using my spring compressor , when used properly!
Not the Binford! lol
Magical @_@
Why did u choose branick over otc
I used both the StrutTamer Extreme II and like the Branick 7600 better for my shop. For what I do, either will do the job very very well. The OTC is built plenty strong, but I found the assembly quality on the Branick to be better and the operation smoother (Branick is 100% engineered and built in the USA; OTC STE II has final assembly done in the USA from "globally sourced components"). One thing that really bugged me about the STE II from the first day was the shitty way the three handled top crank wobbles on the gear reduction mechanism. For a tool that costs $1000+ shipped, that should NOT be the case. Overall, the OTC assembly was OK and good enough, but not anything to get excited about. The Branick was perfect out of the box. I also liked that the Branick gives you the option to bench mount the unit (in addition to wall mount or stand); OTC does not recommend bench mounting the STE II. Lastly, the OTC with the stand was a lot more expensive than the Branick with the bench kit ($897 vs $750). For me, that was a big deal. I returned the OTC and kept the Branick.
A lot of people make a big deal about impact wrench access with the Branick. It still requires you to use an impact universal or impact wobble extension. The OTC does not. But the only time you should be using an impact on the strut nut is if you are going to trash the hydraulic cartridge and replace it with a new one (since the spinning of the shaft can ruin the cartridge seals). For the new cartridge and strut nut (many of which have a Nylok insert) you should be using a proper strut installation kit to hold the shaft and tighten the strut nut to the vehicle manufacturer torque specifications without damaging the chromed shaft or cartridge seals.
WHY DOES NO ONE USE HAND COMPRESSORS RIGHT OMG. All you have to do is use them on both sides of the spings make sure they are even on both sides and it dosen't go flying you just wasted $750 to save a couple minutes. I took my focus springs out to cut them and I used the hand compressors and all it did was pop up a little bit.
Caleb Jj And not use an impact to tighten them. I've used those 'crappy' ones for years with regular ratchets without incident. I dont know which would be faster, but in the time it took him to setup that spring I could already have mine compressed.
I'm not knocking Eric, but I do think his use of the other spring compressors is the direct reason for them flying apart.
I've used hand compressors with ratchets for years, but they scare me tbh. Some (smaller) cars have very awkward struts that don't inspire confidence with the hook-style compressors!
$750 holy crap!!
Hey Eric, Just curious but are your tool videos sponsored? Ie the company pays you to review their product.
Yes because some might be and others might not. Eric should label them as such.
JUNK4UCREW No, I am not paid for the reviews. I get to keep the tools though.
Gah,spendy tool. But if you do a lot of struts/springs/etc,completely worth it. Those other tools are so damn sketchy,I'd never use them. I'd buy the complete 'quick strut' assembly,if possible. I'd like to keep my head attached to my shoulders,thanks.
Next get a hydraulic press to make wheelbearing installation easier. :D
soklot Working on it.
soklot Don't they have some attachments that let you use a press for shocks as well?
Chance06Se I've not heard of that but it seems like a good idea, all you need are some arms (3) to hold the spring at the top and bottom.
Nice however these are like $1650 Australian
$700 shipped on Amazon in the USA.
I actually like the JackTech SK-3000 better from everything I've seen...and it's cheaper to boot.
I hope you’re right I just bought one waiting for it to come in.
No more running to your friend's garage.
That's what happen when you use an air gun 😂😂😂 ...
Looks like torture gadget from medieval times
You’re not suppose to use an impact wrench on the compressors lmao
use hydraulic coil spring compressor easy, fast and cheaper. check alibaba.com
Chinese spring tools? You must have a death wish. I would range that allmost as dangerous as fixing cars with EricTheCarGuy
Shame that thing is so expensive... I despise the small hand-held spring-compressors -- those things are death. But there are *very* few DIYers who can afford this wall-mounted tool. If it were a couple hundred bucks, I could justify it... But not for $750... Damn shame... It's *so* superior to the hand-held type of compressor.
I guess the trick is to find a shop that has one and hope that the owner is nice enough to let you use it -- or pay him/her $20 to pull your springs off and onto new struts for you.
Shop ebay and craigslist. I found a older model branick wall mount compressor for 100 bucks. Best money i ever spent
ill be building one sadly its build or buy china junk or this thing i can not afford i mean 700+ bucks or 120.00 junk irritating so off to the steal store aka junk yard
Don't use impact tools on spring compressors that are not made for impact gun man
Why do you always say the company hooked you up with the tool as if they gave it to you free. Is that your way of sending a hint to the company to give you free tools and you will advertise for them.
jonathan doyle No, it's because they DID give it to him free.
ooo 60fps
Stop undoing them with impact air tools then ffs!!!
Tighten the compressors until the spring is compressed and loose, and undo the strut by hand.
You made it dangerous for yourself I'm afraid. The rest of the world has enough sense to manage it safely.
Because you want to fit the gun,fit it not center is so danger, sorry not danger ,is stupid.