This was a great instruction video ❤ I wish the instructions were more specific on what screws went where but after a bit of common sense I figured it out.
2 years later, and nothing has changed. I am very handy and can follow complicated instructions, but dang these Rev a shelf cabinets have been the worst. The paper instructions are worse than China translated instructions. And the video only slightly made things better, but not by much.
In their defense, I’m a General Contractor and a professional carpenter. This unit is not really a DIY install job. We would consider this a mechanism as part of a guided custom cabinetry job. If any of the measurements are off in any way, the system won’t work properly. It has to be perfectly square, at the perfect height and depth, and every cabinet has slightly different attributes. I agree that the installation of this unit is difficult, but I also think they should indicate more that it’s better to be installed by professionals.
My cabinet is slightly wider than the width of the rail system. Looks like the back plate mounting allows to adjust. Do I add furring strips on the sides too?
It took much longer to install than 45 minutes! The key to this is to make sure everything is level and square. Once the cans are installed, the weight is balanced and the soft closer works perfectly.
the paper instructions are terrible and do not include install instructions for frameless cabinets. This video gives more context but I am still stuck. I have a frameless cabinet, the width is 22.5. Do I need to build out the sides and get to 21 inches, and attach the slides to that? I don't understand why the website says the minimum width needs to be 21 inches. That leads me to believe that something should be adjustable somewhere? any help is appreciated!
After installing the slides on the face frame (3/8" back) and to the back, the wood frame sticks out past the front of the cabinet. It isn't possible to get the metal bracket to be in the same plane as the face frame (as shown on illustration 2 in the written instructions). As a result, there will be gap between the door and the face frame. Normally, I would just move the slides on the drawer, but they are riveted in and attached with t-nuts. Could also potentially add blocking, but it seems mis-sized.
Mine too. I did not have to add spacer at back end of cabinet but cannot mount to face frame as described in video. Slide iength is just beyond cabinet depth. So when I add cabinet face it will stick out from frame well beyond other cabinet doors. Need to return.
We have this exact product and the door will not open all the way out making it difficult to remove the garbage receptacle in the back. What adjustment can be done so the door opens all the way out?
We would need to know more about the exact unit purchased to provide a response. Please contact our Customer Service department at (800) 626-1126, they will be able to assist you.
Hi! Sorry that you are having trouble. On one side the lever releases with an upward push, on the other side it requires a downward push. If you are still having difficulty, please contact Customer Service for assistance!
Hi! Is this a new issue or has it been ongoing since installation? If it has been an issue since installation, then please confirm the slides were installed properly with a level. If everything looks good, please contact customer service at pneal@rev-a-shelf.com for further assistance. Thank you!
my cabinet opening was exactly 15" wide, and I'm getting rubbing on the insides of the metal plates. The outer plate is rubbing against the inner plate as I slide the cabinet out, creating friction. What can I do to mitigate?
Pls help. I have 4WCTM-RM-2150DM-2. It requires adding the mending plate for frameless installation. I can’t find any information how to add this mending plate. Like how you position it and all. There is nothing on the installation guide. Thanks
ALSO, the pdf shows the back bracket with only 2 screws in the bottom holes yet the video shows screws in all four holes. AND the amount of screws that came with it would suggest you only use two screws in the back bracket. FIGURE YOUR SHIT OUT REV
Issue 1 - having a cabinet that was too long. Not Rev's fault. I had to break out the jigsaw to cut a few pieces to fit, and still had to add a shim to each side. I2 - paper instructions. Outline for attaching the door is a dumpster fire. Video was better, but more insight regarding methodology for excactly where to attach the brackets would have been helpful. I measured and winged it. Thank God it worked.
Added better instructions to attaching the door would be helpful. Instead of customer calculating the door frame holes, can you pre calculate them for each specific model. Like 35 gallon trash can only be fixed to a standard 18inch framed cabinet.
I know this is from a year ago, but if you didn’t make the cabinets I would drill a hole (preferably where the backer will be installed so it get covered back up) so you can see the thickness. You can bend a wire (clothes hanger would do) insert it into the hole. Make sure it catches on the plywood and mark with a marker or tape. When you remove it you should be able to measure this with a tape. You could also lightly press in the center of the rear panel. 1/4” plywood will flex slightly and 1/2” will not.
I looked at the back of the base cabinet where my sink is mounted. The back is cut out where the drain passes through. I was able to get a measuring tape in the gap.
How should I attach that furring strip to cabinet back wall? should I glue? if so does that hold the trash can weight and trash weight? or should I use nails?
If I had to suggest, I would buy extra set of long wood screw from Home Depot to attach the furring strip to back wall. I don’t think glue strips can hold that weight.
The measurements for the 50 quart really need to be revised. I removed part of my face frame that allowed for a drawer to accommodate the device at the 20" measurement, only to find that when fully installed, there was more than adequate room to fit with the cans in it. Could've *easily* dropped another inch or two. Now I get to purchase a new door and repair the frame where the cross member was removed. 😑
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. We are having a hard time understanding the situation from this comment. Could you please send photos of the cabinet to socialmedia@rev-a-shelf.com to help us figure out what happened?
It seems to me that basic measuring skills, basic instruction following procedures, basic math skills, and using the principle of "measure twice, cut/drill once" applies here, just like everywhere else. My cabinets are original Kraftmaid with pre-drilled holes, not "custom" or DIY, which made thing MUCH easier. My project was a retro-fit, as the original did not come as ordered with the soft close slides. But still, ya gotta measure PRECISELY if you want things like this to work properly, and be level and square. There's NO SUCH THING as "close enough" when you want things to work properly. If you can't fathom that, have someone close to you help out.
Great. The paper instructions were horrible. On top of that the heights are different on paper and the drill bit size is different on paper (paper it's 1/16).
@@Joy-kl3te it’s likely that your slides are not level with each other. Can you completely remove the drawer and measure the height from cabinet floor to the bottom of the the left side, both front and back, then the right slide, both front and back? All 4 measurements should be exactly the same. If they’re not, that’s likely your problem. Note: if you have a face frame cabinet, ensure you’re measuring the front holes as from the cabinet bottom, not the face frame, so that it matches you’re rear height. That was my problem when I first installed this, and I had to remeasure and remount the fronts to make everything work as it should.
Video states cabinet floor to slide holes is 14 1/2" and the instructions say 14 1/4" but you know it's supposed to be level somehow. Figure your shit out Rev
Thanks for your feedback, I have forwarded your comments to the correct department. If you are still having trouble, please contact our customer service department at (800) 626-1126.
Yeah, my paper instructions said 13 1/8” “to the bottom of the slide.” I don’t know why they wouldn’t just give you the measurement to the hole you have to drill vs what they gave me was measurement to the bottom of the slide, which I then had to measure distance between that and the hole on the rail to add to the measurement on their instructions. Way to make it easy. :/
Totally ridiculous instructions. Do yourself a favor when it com s to mounting the door. Just measure where you want the holes to line up with your door panel. All this other terminology is over engineered by some hardware tech to confuse you .
Hi Dave! Sorry you had a difficult time with the installation process, I have passed your feedback along. Please note, we write our instructions to empower the installer with the precise level of detail needed for our products, it is never our intention to confuse our customers. We hope you love your new waste container, thanks for the feedback!
I am laughing so hard at all these DIY 'rs comments... If you cannot install this WITHOUT instructions, please hand back all your tools. Especially your tape measure!
The instructions made me give this a 1 star review.
Thank you! This video saved us! The paper directions that came with it were impossible!
This was a great instruction video ❤ I wish the instructions were more specific on what screws went where but after a bit of common sense I figured it out.
Why is this is so confusing.The directions that came with it are even worse.
Thank you for your comment. We are reviewing both the video and instructions to see what changes can be made to make the installation process easier.
2 years later, and nothing has changed. I am very handy and can follow complicated instructions, but dang these Rev a shelf cabinets have been the worst. The paper instructions are worse than China translated instructions. And the video only slightly made things better, but not by much.
In their defense, I’m a General Contractor and a professional carpenter. This unit is not really a DIY install job. We would consider this a mechanism as part of a guided custom cabinetry job. If any of the measurements are off in any way, the system won’t work properly. It has to be perfectly square, at the perfect height and depth, and every cabinet has slightly different attributes. I agree that the installation of this unit is difficult, but I also think they should indicate more that it’s better to be installed by professionals.
My cabinet is slightly wider than the width of the rail system. Looks like the back plate mounting allows to adjust. Do I add furring strips on the sides too?
It took much longer to install than 45 minutes! The key to this is to make sure everything is level and square. Once the cans are installed, the weight is balanced and the soft closer works perfectly.
Is there an alternative soft close hardware option for this model?
the paper instructions are terrible and do not include install instructions for frameless cabinets. This video gives more context but I am still stuck. I have a frameless cabinet, the width is 22.5. Do I need to build out the sides and get to 21 inches, and attach the slides to that? I don't understand why the website says the minimum width needs to be 21 inches. That leads me to believe that something should be adjustable somewhere? any help is appreciated!
Ours broke. Can we get replacements rails for it?
As they age where do you apply lubricant of which style ? Thanks
After installing the slides on the face frame (3/8" back) and to the back, the wood frame sticks out past the front of the cabinet. It isn't possible to get the metal bracket to be in the same plane as the face frame (as shown on illustration 2 in the written instructions). As a result, there will be gap between the door and the face frame. Normally, I would just move the slides on the drawer, but they are riveted in and attached with t-nuts. Could also potentially add blocking, but it seems mis-sized.
Mine too. I did not have to add spacer at back end of cabinet but cannot mount to face frame as described in video. Slide iength is just beyond cabinet depth. So when I add cabinet face it will stick out from frame well beyond other cabinet doors. Need to return.
Same but I kinda forced mine back and it slid into place. Maybe try pushing it hard
Buying these is even more complicated than installing. There’s a minimum opening but not a maximum?
We have this exact product and the door will not open all the way out making it difficult to remove the garbage receptacle in the back. What adjustment can be done so the door opens all the way out?
We would need to know more about the exact unit purchased to provide a response. Please contact our Customer Service department at (800) 626-1126, they will be able to assist you.
What did you figure out? I have the same trouble with mine.
I’m having a hard time removing the brackets in Step one. I do not want to force the release since it is only plastic. Any hints?
Hi! Sorry that you are having trouble. On one side the lever releases with an upward push, on the other side it requires a downward push. If you are still having difficulty, please contact Customer Service for assistance!
@revashelf. I have the exact model and I see the shelf pulling out on its own after closing it. Any idea how to fix it?
Hi! Is this a new issue or has it been ongoing since installation? If it has been an issue since installation, then please confirm the slides were installed properly with a level. If everything looks good, please contact customer service at pneal@rev-a-shelf.com for further assistance. Thank you!
I have the same issue. It worked fine for a good while. Now it is opening after I close it.
my cabinet opening was exactly 15" wide, and I'm getting rubbing on the insides of the metal plates. The outer plate is rubbing against the inner plate as I slide the cabinet out, creating friction. What can I do to mitigate?
Hi! Please reach out to Pam in Customer Service for assistance, her email is pneal@rev-a-shelf.com.
Pls help. I have 4WCTM-RM-2150DM-2. It requires adding the mending plate for frameless installation. I can’t find any information how to add this mending plate. Like how you position it and all. There is nothing on the installation guide. Thanks
Hi! How thick is your cabinet wall?
ALSO, the pdf shows the back bracket with only 2 screws in the bottom holes yet the video shows screws in all four holes. AND the amount of screws that came with it would suggest you only use two screws in the back bracket. FIGURE YOUR SHIT OUT REV
Issue 1 - having a cabinet that was too long. Not Rev's fault. I had to break out the jigsaw to cut a few pieces to fit, and still had to add a shim to each side. I2 - paper instructions. Outline for attaching the door is a dumpster fire. Video was better, but more insight regarding methodology for excactly where to attach the brackets would have been helpful. I measured and winged it. Thank God it worked.
Added better instructions to attaching the door would be helpful. Instead of customer calculating the door frame holes, can you pre calculate them for each specific model. Like 35 gallon trash can only be fixed to a standard 18inch framed cabinet.
Thanks for the suggestion! I will pass that along.
Thank you so much for this video, the paper instructions that came with the shelf made no sense at all.
Hi Josefa! We are happy you found the video helpful. Your feedback regarding the paper instructions has been passed along. Thanks!
How do I determine the thickness of the back wall?
I have this same question, anyone have an idea?
I know this is from a year ago, but if you didn’t make the cabinets I would drill a hole (preferably where the backer will be installed so it get covered back up) so you can see the thickness. You can bend a wire (clothes hanger would do) insert it into the hole. Make sure it catches on the plywood and mark with a marker or tape. When you remove it you should be able to measure this with a tape.
You could also lightly press in the center of the rear panel. 1/4” plywood will flex slightly and 1/2” will not.
I looked at the back of the base cabinet where my sink is mounted. The back is cut out where the drain passes through. I was able to get a measuring tape in the gap.
How should I attach that furring strip to cabinet back wall? should I glue? if so does that hold the trash can weight and trash weight? or should I use nails?
If I had to suggest, I would buy extra set of long wood screw from Home Depot to attach the furring strip to back wall. I don’t think glue strips can hold that weight.
Can furring strip be plywood? My cabinets are 1/2 inch thick but they are ikea (so made of crappy pressed board)
This also confused us. Eventually we just used our own screws and screwed it in near the top and bottom of the furring.
The measurements for the 50 quart really need to be revised. I removed part of my face frame that allowed for a drawer to accommodate the device at the 20" measurement, only to find that when fully installed, there was more than adequate room to fit with the cans in it. Could've *easily* dropped another inch or two. Now I get to purchase a new door and repair the frame where the cross member was removed. 😑
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. We are having a hard time understanding the situation from this comment. Could you please send photos of the cabinet to socialmedia@rev-a-shelf.com to help us figure out what happened?
It seems to me that basic measuring skills, basic instruction following procedures, basic math skills, and using the principle of "measure twice, cut/drill once" applies here, just like everywhere else. My cabinets are original Kraftmaid with pre-drilled holes, not "custom" or DIY, which made thing MUCH easier. My project was a retro-fit, as the original did not come as ordered with the soft close slides. But still, ya gotta measure PRECISELY if you want things like this to work properly, and be level and square. There's NO SUCH THING as "close enough" when you want things to work properly. If you can't fathom that, have someone close to you help out.
Our blue soft close brackets quit working. Our pullout trash bin slams shut now. There’s zero reference anywhere. That’s ridiculous
Hi Kyle! Please reach out to customer service by emailing pneal@rev-a-shelf.com!
lame didn't show how to remove the bracket in step 1
how dare you call for a 3/32 drill bit. Are you guys insane??
Great. The paper instructions were horrible. On top of that the heights are different on paper and the drill bit size is different on paper (paper it's 1/16).
Thanks for the video. Mine won't slide out enough for the second bin to come out from under the cabinet all rhe way. How do I adjust it?
@@Joy-kl3te it’s likely that your slides are not level with each other. Can you completely remove the drawer and measure the height from cabinet floor to the bottom of the the left side, both front and back, then the right slide, both front and back? All 4 measurements should be exactly the same. If they’re not, that’s likely your problem.
Note: if you have a face frame cabinet, ensure you’re measuring the front holes as from the cabinet bottom, not the face frame, so that it matches you’re rear height. That was my problem when I first installed this, and I had to remeasure and remount the fronts to make everything work as it should.
@@danielplavsic7642 thank u for your help. Actually going to have it looked at by the installer next week and have them fix it.
Video states cabinet floor to slide holes is 14 1/2" and the instructions say 14 1/4" but you know it's supposed to be level somehow. Figure your shit out Rev
Thanks for your feedback, I have forwarded your comments to the correct department. If you are still having trouble, please contact our customer service department at (800) 626-1126.
Yeah, my paper instructions said 13 1/8” “to the bottom of the slide.” I don’t know why they wouldn’t just give you the measurement to the hole you have to drill vs what they gave me was measurement to the bottom of the slide, which I then had to measure distance between that and the hole on the rail to add to the measurement on their instructions. Way to make it easy. :/
Totally ridiculous instructions. Do yourself a favor when it com s to mounting the door. Just measure where you want the holes to line up with your door panel. All this other terminology is over engineered by some hardware tech to confuse you .
Hi Dave! Sorry you had a difficult time with the installation process, I have passed your feedback along. Please note, we write our instructions to empower the installer with the precise level of detail needed for our products, it is never our intention to confuse our customers. We hope you love your new waste container, thanks for the feedback!
I am laughing so hard at all these DIY 'rs comments... If you cannot install this WITHOUT instructions, please hand back all your tools. Especially your tape measure!