Planing Wide boards more accurately with Rob Cosman
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Most folks own a stationary planer that is wider than their jointer. Unless you know how to flatten one side of the board with hand tools, the extra capacity isn't useful.
Planers only make faces parallel, if you send a twisted or cupped board through the planer you will get a twisted or cupped board out the other end, just thinner. A bit of know-how and some elbow grease will allow you to use the full width of your planer, accurately! We filmed the entire process so you will get an idea of what it takes. Enjoy
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I love your videos because you don't cut and edit the harder parts of the process. You give us a realistic view of what it takes to master the craft. Other videos are great for those who like to just see a project from "A to Z," but you actually show us the difficulties and then teach us how to overcome them. Thank you for your hard work, selflessness, and expertise. You honor the craft with your videos.
very nice comment, thank you.
I discovered scrub planes by accident when I built my workbench. They are a HUGE improvement over attempting to level a board with a belt sander. No noise and most importantly no dust ! Also fast and the level of precision one gets just can't be beat!
Thank you for showing the whole process of how to spot high points on a board. This has been invaluable to me. Thank you. I love your videos. You're a great teacher.
Hi Rob! I’m a 67 YO pro woodworker with 47 years of experience. I was re-acquainted to your videos recently when I was doing a tool search. BTW, Alan Peters was inspirational to me as well and I have a first addition of his book; Cabinetmaking, the professional approach. I also considered Sam and Alfred’s Maloof personal friends and own a Maloof original. I’m still working professionally because I love what I do. I love the content and quality of your videos! So this one auto fed to me and I watched it. My critique of this and your process here flattening your cherry plank would be this. It would be more efficient from a time and quality standpoint to have removed the guard on your 16” jointer and have used the full capacity of your jointer and its ranting outfeed table to flatten what you could on this plank. Then you could have leveled out the remaining unjointed strip with your hand planes. On the other hand if demonstrating the use of a scrub plane plus the #6 was your motive, then good on you, this is an excellent example of that! BTW, the #6 is my go to plane and has been for 40+ years. I have an excellent Bailey that is very highly tuned. The other thing I would mention is you could have incorporated the use of winding sticks here to demonstrate that skill. I’m lucky in that we have multiple jointers in our shop in northern Michigan 8” Delta and 16” Delta Invicta with helical heads and a 20” Oliver as well as a 25” Oliver planer with a helical head. If I do have to flatten a big slabs which happens now and then I use winding sticks, my 6.75” Makita hand planer with helical head and then hand planes to get it ready for either the 24” planer or the 43” AEM wide belt. Thanks for all your great content and concise delivery of it. You sir are an excellent woodworker. Cheers! Allan
I have just found your site and what a breath of fresh air. This is the first workshop that looks like it’s been used most look like Molly maid has just spent the last two days in them. Also there is no bull as you make the odd mistake and you don’t try to cover them up but repair. Thank you I’ll keep watching
I am a retired wood worker and enjoy seeing how others approach a situation. I continue to learn.Your way will get you a flat surface but have you tried putting your work on a known flat wood surface and wedge and lock your piece down so it can't move then run it through your planer? In a few passes you are flat on one side.This is a huge time saver that increases your profit as it only take a few minutes.
how do you lock it down
Simple. Lay board on a carrier board or sled if you like, say 1/2 in ply or mdf then blobs of hot glue in the right places to level the board and stop it moving. Then pass both thru your thicknesser. I have no jointer and have flattened boards through my thicknesser for years this way. Still enjoy watching somebody use hand tools which is why I am here. Look around youtube and you will find loads of sleds, just don't go mad with all the wedges and do dads people make. Hot glue is the way to solve the problem quick easy and knocks off simply after use.
how?
@@frontbum420 not quite sure what your query is but the carrier board (sled some call it) runs on the bed of the thicknesser, the board to be flattened sits on top of that. Once you have established where it is rocking and the locations for your blobs of hot glue, apply glue (to make clean up easier I usually stick a piece of two inch masking tape on carrier and board to be flattened and then apply big blob of hot glue to the tape, that way you simply pull the boards apart and remove the tape, glue comes off with the tape). When you rest the board to be flattened on the carrier board it squeezes the glue down and once hardened (30 seconds or so) it stops the board rocking and glues the two boards together. Then pass the board through the thicknesser, carrier board down obviously and take as many passes as are necessary to obtain a flat surface then remove from carrier board and flip over. Then pass the board through the thicknesser with the newly flattened surface down until you have a second flat surface. It's really easy and gives you a perfect result every time. I have no room for a big jointer and have flattened boards up to 10ft (bit tricky but a couple of roller stands and it worked fine) in length through my lunchbox thicknesser for years and years. If I haven't made the process clear let me know and I'll expand.
A flat surface and a long straight edge, draw measured squares with a charcoal pencil, move the board back and forth, the charcoal will make all highs seen with the charcoal moving out of squares. Same principal when I use Russian blue on steel. Its 100 percent effective. Art charcoal works best, I used same principal when I machine steel, no mess!
Great video Rob. I loved the fact that you showcased the scrub plane and #6 plane. These 2 hand planes are often forgotten but I could make an arguement that these should be your first hand planes you get. Learning how to flatten/joint a face of a rough sawn board should be one of the first things you learn to do when learning woodworking and the use of hand planes. I love my #6, probably the most used plane in my shop. I use it just as in this video for flattening rough lumber as well as cleaning up large tabletop/panel glue ups and even as a jointing plane for jointing the edge of boards to be glued up.
You are an awesome teacher, thanks for putting in the hard work and sharing with us!
Enjoyed watching a master craftsman at work. Sometimes there is no substitute for hand labor.
MASTER at his Craft!
Invaluable info Rob! I have been weaning myself off power tools and thoroughly enjoy hand tools only...for the most part.
Old school baby, it gives you real satisfaction. And when the power is out, your not. I built a 2 story barn with bunk beds out in the wilderness. No electricity, no generator, I would go camping with the kids and dog, after playing . I would work on the barn. After 6 months it was done. We would go to our property and enjoy the barn, very cold and rain sometimes. My boys grew up, and would beg to go. Even if the weather was bad., 1 became a bad ass Soldier. And the a contractor for the Navy and Marines. Both are engineers. Talk about life lesson.
Rob, very nice working out the technicalities of flattening a board is such a way to show exactly the method to do it. This was easy to follow along with.
Rob thank you for the moments of frantic chaos that with persistence become art form
Excellent tutorial Mr. 'C'. The repetition and steadfast thoroughness get a great result. Your demeanor made the watching enjoyable, and being able to see your shop gives me so many ideas for my own one day. Thanks, you have a new subscriber.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. The process is mostly intuitive but I always learn something when watching someone who really knows what they're doing go through it.
All of your videography and teaching is great. It is really useful to see and hear the thought processes you put into this aspect of accurate planing. Thanks for all yours and your staff's efforts to train folks and especially your efforts to serve those who serve us ideally in the highest sense. The values you bring to the process are exemplary. Thank you for your service.
This is a great technique if you want the project to last. I prefer a planing sled for a quick job. Rob is a master of hand tools.
Your videos are awesome! Incredibly informative and you present the explanations with clarity. Thank you for taking the time and effort.
Tiring efforts vs untiring enthusiasm. A battle between body and mind for creativity and a quest for perfection. Great video. Best wishes!
Thanks for going through that Rob! Go Cougs!
+1 for showing the process in real time.
Great video as always. A little sweat never killed anyone, and it was done in half an hour. I'd love to see a series on building that bench! You're an excellent teacher and craftsman and I'm sure there would be many tips even us more experienced woodworkers would find invaluable.
Rob, I really appreciate your ability to teach exactly how to perform different tasks. I work on a much smaller scale in my little Garage Shop but the principles are the same. Thank You
I helped an old time woodworker with this same basic process on some maple of similar size. Instead of using a hand plane to attack the high spots he set up a lapping table with coarse sandpaper glued to the flat table. We faced each other and simply pushed the board back and forth between us. We never had to flip the board with this method and as soon as the rocking stopped the boards went into the planer.
Great vid Rob! I admire your enthusiasm and envy your tools! I wish I could put into words my gratitude for everything you have taught me. Cheers
Thank you, I will certainly share this
Masterful. End to end problem solving was just excellent.
Great work Rob you read the wood really well.That is half the battle.
Love Robs videos.
I loved this video! What a nice lesson in learning to read the wood.
Thank God someone who uses a riving knife.Thats real skill what he just did flattening that.
Another great tutorial, very clear and demonstrates your knowledge and fluancy with hand tools. Thanks for sharing
Rob man you love wood the way my gramps did. Thanks for what you do.
Quite a lot of work and even for a master craftsman like you it took quite a while. Awesome video! Thanks!
Great video-thanks for showing what it takes to get it flat!
Thank you for the video. Iam very new to woodworking and actually have a few boards to deal with that are like this one. It is very helpful for me to see the process of elimination to deal with it. Thank you so much for the education. Love the videos.
Great demonstration with a tool (scrub plane) that is under-appreciated and less-understood. I keep one in the kitchen (you've never tried my wife's cooking).
I actually have to use it to clean the pans.
Thanks for a great video. I just recently found your channel. I am relatively new to woodworking and enjoying learning many new things from CZcams to practice on. This video was perhaps the most informative about flattening lumber. The explanation, video angle and the execution were invaluable. I look forward to watching and learning from your channel for new skills to practice with.
Since you were going to send this through the thicknesser I'd have used a 25mm mdf baseboard, shimmed the ends with wedges to keep it level, dogged it onto the baseboard and just sent it through the thicknesser taking very light skims... but hey, I'm an idle so and so and all that hand planning I did when I didn't know any better :)
Good work. Great patience as this took awhile to get flat. Thanks for all of your videos which help all of us. I couldn't help but notice the Army cap on the top shelf. Thanks for your service. Regards from an old Marine.
Thanks for helping disabled veterans. It is appreciated.
There's no better feeling of achievement when using hand planes and getting the stock flat....shame you didn't do it all but, as the saying goes.."time is money"………nice video again Rob 👍🏼😊
Rob Cosman ah right..👍🏼.. If time was there for you, would you of made this by hand?…
I think the answer would be yes because the love of wood and all your hand tools.....I really enjoy your videos so please keep them coming 😉
Man that looks fun. Kinda hard but fun....I have an old plane I've never used I'm gonna make a scrub plane out of. Thanks for the vid!
I am impressed ...
Thanks
Rob, another great session here, and I learned a lot as always. Many thanks to you. Just one thought: rather than flipping that heavy piece over and over again to test it, why not simply use your long straightedge to identify the high and low spots? That would work quite well and go very quickly. You're right that more folks should adopt and use the scrub plane. It's also a most useful tool for establishing texture on pieces that can benefit from that-sculpture for example.
Real woodworking.....!!!!...thanks for the lesson.
Rob - A technique I was shown to save time from hand planing a cupped/warped board was to get a piece of melamine, the same width as the board you want to flatten, as well as a little bit longer. Place the board on top of the melamine, and shim the gaps of the high spots. hot glue them down to the melamine so they don't move, and then run it through the planer until the entire board has been planed down. then just flip it over, and plane out the highs/lows on the other side. much quicker, all though I do love hand planning.
Nicely done.
Just found your channel recently, very informative. Enjoy your straight forward manner.
Nice project Rob, enjoyed this content.
That was hard work Mr Cosman. Thanks for that invaluable lesson.
This video has a lot of useful information !
Always enjoy your videos Rob.......great content
One way that's worked for me is to remove the jointer guard, and joint the board, letting it hang over the side of the table. Then flip the board, set the jointed portion on a simple sled - a piece of 3/4" Baltic at least as long as the board, and the same width as the jointer bed. Run the sled through the planer, making the opposite face parallel to the jointed section. Finally, remove the sled, flip the board, and plane off the 'step' left in the original face from jointing only part of the board.
Your a good teacher Rob
Thank you Pat.
Beast mode
Good tutorial Rob!
Great video..thanks...
I have watched your videos over and over again. Man, you are one of few wood artists present on CZcams. That's just wonderful and certainly something that inspires me a lot...For a start, should I get a jack plane or a fore plane (18inch)? I am a hobbyist and I don't have power tools, but I will have to joint large 'slabs and rough/warped lumber' as we have plenty at home...all tropical hard wood.
If you don’t plan on buying a jointer plane (7 or 8) I would recommend getting a 6.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you. Stay blessed.
I learned a lot watching this! Thanks! I need to get a decent scrub plane!
get the Lie-nielsen version, my preference.
Nice job!
I like your videos!
You're a real woodworker and the best in class!
HI rob that was super advice and so useful thank u.
Excellent !!!
Kind of reminded me of how I turned a three legged bar stool into a three legged milking stool. Ha!
Amazing and boy that looked hard work. I would use a router lol. i am sure you could double up as an arm wrestler the way you throw wood around. thanks for being our tutor Rob
Exercise in the shop, killing two birds at the same time!
Very nice work.
You are the man !
I really liked this video. Nuff said!!!
There must be a better way. Rob is a master and he makes this procedure work, but few of us have the leisure to invest 10-20 years just to produce a square board.
Very interesting Rob. I learned a lot. Thank you!
I am surprised you are not using winding sticks. Seems to me that would make this a simpler job Rob.
You're the man Rob! It's nice to see a real craftsman at work. Getting tired of all the "pallet carpenters" around these days. Pallets are for storing heavy things, not woodworking.
as much as I agree, you shouldn't complain about "pallet carpenters". wood working is an enjoyable hobby that gets people to use their brains and actually build something by hand. don't put them down just because they're not making high end hand crafted jointed pieces of furniture.
+Medici Works "As much as you agree", You still have to chime in on how wrong I am...? Was I putting anyone down? No.
Yes, I am tired of the pallet craze. Doesn't mean I go after people doing it. BTW. People shouldn't use pallets anyways. Due to harmful chemicals and mold that are bound to be present.
I was just trying to come at your perspective from a different angle is all. All the best.
Livin' Rob people also use pallets as most are starting off woodworking and pallets are free so u can practice on them n if u mess it up well there free I used to use pallets now I'm making cherry coffee tables from planks of cherry wood ash,oak,sycamore,walnut etc, there's no way I'm wasting a lovely piece of cherry or walnut plank lol, I also don't think u was putting people down,there is a lot of pallet woodworkers but hay wood is wood my friend
living rob who cares what you think, your toilet is tired of receiving your smelly moldy terds too, but guess what it deals with your human waste without saying a word. you making yourself out to be more important that what you really are, at the end of the day you too have to sit down and take some stinky turd like the rest of us aint nothing special about you
The man's got skills for sure. Not sure if I'd buy his dovetail saws because of the price tag but he definitely knows his shit. The saws are probably great but I'm not rich.
An easier and faster method is to build a sled wide enough for your planer. Place the board to be planed on top of the sled cup side down (so it rocks on the sled). Then place shims along the edges of the board to remove the rocking motion. Then use a hot glue gun to glue the shim to the sled, and then a bead of hot glue to join the board to the shim. Put the sled and board through the planer a couple times and it will come out perfectly flat. The hot glue is easily removed with a putty knife or chisel. Way easier!
Okay Rob, point taken. Cheers!
The essence of working wood... top notch as always! I haven't flattened anything this big by hand. I do usually scribble some colored chalk or pencil down the board to check my progress. Is that not helpful in tackling twist?
I think there is an easier way with the way you're showing. If I were to use hand tools just like you are what I would have done was scribe a reference line on my workpiece from your bench top that is flat. That way you have a perimeter line all across your board to plane down to. The only word of caution for this process is to hold your board and not letting it move while you scribe the perimeter line on the work piece
Well done, thanks for sharing.
thank you thank you thank you
Hi Rob! After taking your hand planing class in Seattle, I have a great appreciation for the capabilities of hand planes. What brand of scrub plane are you using on the video? Hopefully, it is one that is available! Thanks, Eileen
The brand isn't important. The blade, and it's sharpness. and how it's set makes or break the plane
I really need to pick up an old #3 to #5 on ebay to convert to a scrub plane. A regular blade in a #3 does pretty well in softer woods, but for hard stuff like ash it can be a slow process.
Well that answers questions about a 3 HP saw stop being able to cut thick stock!
So Rob, do you buy a scrub blade for the Stanley or do you grind a regular blade? Do you need to do anything to the plane besides change the blade?
Are you talking about a regular scrub plane or turning a bench plane into a scrub plane?
Bench to scrub
Fantastic walk through, and I love that it was not just a little piece. Was good to see someone showing us how to work on a big slab 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Will the next one be on how to make the slabs out of a log?
Thank you, this video has made me want to stick with my day job instead of becoming a woodworker.
Can you set your planer to the thickness just below the hump or pivot point and run it through the planer to flatten it?
Great video and demonstration Rob! Where did you get the beautiful Rob Cosman Logo Sign in the background? Bet some really nice member made it for you (and good looking too)...
Very nice. Thanks
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice video :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Hi Rob! I'm pretty new to woodworking and am really starting to get into the meat of it. I was introduced to your channel just recently, and let me tell ya, you have a viewer for life and a future customer (once my budget permits of course!). Your utmost attention to detail is impeccable and I'm really grateful for all the material you provide. After watching this video, I wanted to ask: What purpose is the scrub plane for when it seems your #6 managed to do an equivalent job, if not better? I feel like the longer reference edge on the #6 planed away the high spots more effectively while the scrub plane did so in more of a hunting manner. It leaves me wondering what purpose the scrub plane has when other planes may be able to do its job. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and as comes assumed, it was a great video. I learned a lot!
I watched the video and was enlightened cuz I've done similar process with #5 and #7 and it took close to 3 hours I think when the board is that severe and needs that much tuning looks like it speeds the process to getting to the jointer #7 or in this case the fore plane #6 a whole lot quicker than without the scuba plane. But then again, Rob makes it all look so easy.
Real good insight if you dont want to use a router and a sled.
Well like he said at the end "If your not afraid of a little hard work".... Maybe that Giant Oak tree your working on should be turned into a desk and the top should be done with his method. Yea? Subbed to ya both bro love both channels.
The work bench has to be dead on level. Nice job.
Good job! Thank you.
Do you buy a scrub plane or convert an existing one to be a scrub plane? What’s the best one to get started with?
What type of wood was that? I am new to this, but why not use a plane longer than a #6 to knock down the high spots?
You'd probably benefit from watching a metal scraping class.
Already you are doing most of the things they do but they have some tricks that make it go faster and could help you perfect your method.
hi Rob, would using your winding sticks help with the initial flattening? or a long straight edge? Cheers
Yea, I agree. Using winding sticks for the bulk of the primary work has got to be much faster than the constant flipping. Save the flipping for the last few high spots.
Somehow I still don't understand how a scrub plane is different from other aggressive planes. It's pretty long, but narrow, and the blade sticks out a lot. ?I think planing wide boards will be just faster, but not more accurate. How is this this supposed to be used to get better results?
Hey Rob.
I have a really bad back. It's from doing things like you were just doing. There is no way to plane that far away without stressing your low back. If you re-watch the video, I'm sure you will agree. The best thing to do would be to keep the work closer to you.
I was in construction for my entire life, so I know about time constraints and wanting to get it done. Trust me though, it's really not worth it.
Line lazer could help a lot
Can a bump in the middle almost seem like a twist?
I didn't understand that! You put the "scrubbed side" down on the bench after planing which you had already established was flat, I expected that you would put the planed side down to prove that the board went through the bed without distortion then put it through the thicknesser to clean up the scrubbed side.