Daikin VRV Commissioning | Tips and Tricks Part 1 | Power-up and Test Operation - 9-3-2022
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Timestamps:
Before You Power On Equipment @ 02:09
Powering up the Indoor Equipment @ 03:04
Powering up Branch Selector Boxes on Heat Recovery Systems @ 04:24
Powering up Outdoor Units @ 05:56
Error Codes during Power-up @ 10:30
Verifying Proper Communication with Indoor Units @ 11:23
Verifying Proper Communication with Branch Selector Box Ports @ 15:24
Forced Fan Diagnostic @ 17:09
Additional Refrigerant Charge Mode @ 21:33
Test Operation @ 27:00
In this video I'll be walking you all through how to properly start-up Daikin VRV Equipment. I'll be including the power-up process, communication check (indoors and bs box ports), forced fan operation, additional refrigerant charge mode, and TEST operation.
As a bonus, I will be showing you how to do all of this for both types of VRV Boards, including the boards used on VRVS, VRV Life, VRVII Generation, VRVIII Generation, and even SkyAir and Super Multi RMXS Hybrid Systems. These are typically referred to as the older board style or the board with all the LED lights on them where you need to count binary values.
I'll also include today's boards used on VRVIV, VRVX, VRV 5 and VRV Emerion (depending on where you are in the world). These are the newer board styles we use today and have a digital LCD screen that gives you the actual values of settings, so no more counting!
This is a longer video than usual, please stick around for as long as you can. I went through this as fast as I could and only gave pertinent information I thought would be most helpful for you all to have a smooth and successful start-up.
In part 2 (the next video), I'll be showing you how to program addresses and field settings in each of the stat options Daikin currently offers today, including the NAV Controller, Daikin One Smart Thermostat, and Madoka Controller.
Hope you all enjoy the video!
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All content, material and commentary in this video and on this channel is my sole opinion and perspective only. None of my content is approved as Factory Authorized Training, nor training of any kind. Always refer to the installation manuals shipped with equipment and contact the factory or local technical support of the vendor in the event of needed support.
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Thanks for the video. Very curious on how to properly do performance tests on vrv and what to look for.
Check out my vrf commercial playlist
VRF Commercial: czcams.com/play/PLp3f3O3aA1KiDIBLsZ_V-ZQXw15uPBzsl.html
Daikin should reaaally rethink the outdoor meny system. WAY to comlicated for 2024! thank you for the info.
Vrviii and earlier yes, but vrv4 and newer has a digital screen so it's quite easy and fast these days. I think its like anything though, you do it a lot and you get pretty used to it. But only doing it once or twice a year yea it can be challenging.
Wow! Master class! Thank you very much Dana, this video has been awesome 🤓
Thanks Juan glad you found this helpful!
Awesome video. Thank you
Thanks Eli. This one was longer than I wanted it to be. Even trying to bomb through it and editing it down a bunch. Argh lol
@@InverterAlways it's perfect. Don't forget, we can always fast forward 😉
Great video as usual Dana 🇬🇧
Thanks Tom much appreciated!
@@InverterAlways I’ve got a random one for you, I’ve always wondered why when installing a twin/triple or quad system you have to enter field code (11)-0-02/3/4 as applicable. Any idea what it changes? System still runs fine without it. Maybe alters something in the control logic? 🤔
@@tom24057 .... can you double check that setting? I never set it I don't even have that setting in my backend settings list. The biggest thing with multi indoors on one stat is mode 10 6-02 to set the stat as the group controller. But nothing in terms of 11 0-**at least not here in the states.
@@InverterAlways I don’t think it’s solely UK based. Standard nav controller paired with x3 cassettes and x1 outdoor condenser. For example that would be 11-0-03. Even states it in service manuals. I may email Daikin directly to try and find out. 😂 🤷🏻♂️
@@tom24057 I'll take a look at what you sent me. We've never had to set that setting though for reference. I'll check it out though
Great video!! Could VRF be used in place of a whole home dehumidifier for the hot and humid south? Could the units be programmed to automatically switch to dehum when heating or cooling is not required but humidity is high for example? (mostly for the transitioning periods of the year). If so, Is it really worth having the VRF system undertake this task, from any perspective (cost/wear/result) . Many thanks, yet again!!
I would recommend the vrf for space temp control but get a separate dehumidifier/humidifier for the home. Just my preference. Vrf isn't really designed for dehum. It'll pull some moisture out in dry mode. But it's not a ton. So it's hard to say if it will do the trick alone. I think where it's really humid most folks get a dedicated dehumidifier.
Hey Dana, awesome videos, too much info for me to take in, is there a short training class for VRV3 that you can guide me through to sign up ?
I did a vrvs single phase heat pump install commissioning series which breaks down the whole process in separate topics. Probably as close to a "class" as you get before going to a rep and sitting in on a multi day class. There are classes all over the country though so if you reach out to your local daikin rep they should be able to give you their dates for upcoming classes.
What is the main function of the mode 1
Monitor mode. We use it to verify Information.
Hey Dana. For a VRV-4S, the install manual just says go into test mode. Should we reset as soon as we re-establish power (after the minimum 6 hours) along with the indoors?
Reset what the addressing? If you powered up the outdoor by itself for 6 hours then yes kill it and Start with Indoors first when you getvto outdoors reset the addressing. Make sure you check com before starting test.
Brilliant Video, I am working on VRV IV(Heat Recovery), The system i am working on is one master and two slaves. The second slave breaker keeps tripping and i get U7-03 error code but the communications wiring is good between the main unit and the slaves. What might be the problem that causes the breaker to keep tripping?
Does it trip during test or right when you power it up or only when it tries to run in general? U7-03 is usually a com error between master and sub1 not sub2. This can be due to a failed pcb. Could be a main board or noise filter board. Follow the troubleshooting flow steps from the app or service manual to see which one has failed. You may have a short somewhere as well causing it. But according to the error it seems like it would be on the first sub module. Check both sub modules to be safe since the second sub keeps tripping the breaker that's likely the one shorting somewhere.
@@InverterAlways it trips when it tries to run in general. Busy with the main pcb troubleshooting from service manual
@@moteanemelamu4602 likely a bad board. Might be the inverter but with the error type I'm thinking not. Worth checking each board though.
How About VRV CityMulti Mitsubishi Electric
What about it?
When changing out a main PCB board in Vrv series do I have to run the unit in test mode to get it to initialize? I have twin outdoor units and the number 2 keeps sending me LC-15 error when I apply power to it at the working number 1 unit.
If you have twinned modules you will have a master outdoor with wires on f1f2, q1q2, and an outdoor with only wires on q1q2. If you swapped the main pcb on the master outdoor with wires on both f1f2 and q1q2 then you will need to run test operation. If you swapped the main pcb on the outdoor with only wires on q1q2 you do not need to run test. Instead, on the master outdoor unit board you need to reset the communication network when you apply power.
First power off both modules off for 5 minutes. Next, power both modules on. If you have vrv4 and later you'll have the 3 led screens that blink small circles. Press and hold return for 20 seconds on the master outdoor unit that has f1f2 and q1q2 wires landed. 20 seconds hold it then let go and wait for blank screen. That resets com. You can then go through and check number of units in network. If older vrv with lots of tiny lights then hold reset for 20 seconds and then let go and wait for h3p to be only light on.
All this, and keep in mind when you swap an outdoor main pcb you need to set dip switches to tell it what voltage and size the unit is. Did you do that?
I would start with the dip switches first though, then reset system. Then you probably should check noise filter board too and inverter board. If the dip switch and reset thing doesn't work you have other issues on that system the lc-15 code I just looked up is a com issue between main pcb on the sub outdoor with only q1q2 on it, and the inverter board. So you either lost an inverter board or noise filter board, IF the dip switch and reset doesn't resolve the problem. So check those after you have set dip switches on new board and reset the com.
Thank you. Tuesday I go back and will find out. My company sent someone else to replace the main board so I need to check the dip switches.
hey! thanks for the useful videos. quick question. my outdoor unit stopped working. i reset the power from the breaker and still no luck. H2p, h3p and h8p are all flashing. should i reset it and then go into mode 5 and confirm it sees all the indoor units?
H2 blinks? If it doesn't go solid it doesn't see any indoors. Possibly u4 on all stats? I would check the com wire maybe mouse chewed through it or someone threw a screw through the wire? I've done that before 🤣 back when attaching speedi channel the wire got right in the way and I didn't notice.
@@InverterAlways Okay. I reset the outdoor unit but now it's only seeing 2 of my 5 indoor units. They all seem to be connected to one BP unit. I'm also seeing an error code of U4 which seems to suggest some kind of communication problem. It looks like I can test the BP unit but unfortunately, the lights are covered with a piece of styrofoam. Can I just pop that off and tape it back on afterwards?
@@muhacks what's the outdoor model? Rmxs48? So you have a com error between the BP box and indoors. You should check the wiring 1,2,3 from each port to each indoor most of the time wires got crossed. No need to pop anything off.
@@InverterAlways yup. it's an rmxs48. so would that wiring to the indoor units be in the BP box?
@@muhacks your indoors wire to BP box. The BP boxes then wire to the outdoor.
Hola aquí esta el futuro del nuevo sistema de climatizacion de alta eficiencia y que hace el trabajo de calefacción y enfriamiento sin uso de ng ni altos consumos de electricidad ni resistencias electricidad para calentar en invierno siempre es pensados desde que se introduce esta tecnología que el sistema de climatizacion donde lo necesita es más eficiente que tener todos climatizados sin necesidad consumiendo energía eléctrica. Por ejemplo un aire de 5 toneladas para climatizar una casa a la hora de acostarme para que si solo necesita las habitación y no en la casa enteras hay no hay eficiencia como en este sistema que si climatizado donde lo necesitas.
No ablo Español lo siento
These things are junk lol half the time they don’t have parts but we shouldn’t need parts for something that is a few months old I hope we stop selling these
A system is only as good as it's install. When installed correctly most systems out there operate pretty well. There's very few brands that just have plain crap equipment. Based on the over decade now working on daikin I would confidentially say, compared to other brands Daikin has a very good quality of equipment.
I would challenge and encourage you to get all your guys properly trained on the installation of these systems, and it would also be good to get good service training. Lots of trainings out there that don't really do a good job of covering the details.
Everything mechanical will break at some point and although Daikin may not always have an available spare part locally for you, they do a pretty good job of keeping them stocked at the factory for the most part. But in some cases when a part is not available, I agree it can be frustrating. That doesn't make a brand junk though. Just my thoughts. Any time a unit is having issues or if you or a team member is having a challenge with a series of units it is always good to step back and try to determine the root cause of the issue. Over 95% of issues come down to the installation of a unit. It's rarely just a bad unit.
I'm sure this doesn't help you but I always try not to just blame the equipment and instead look deeper into the causes of failures and issues.