Strainer Post Install (New Zealand)
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- čas přidán 26. 09. 2020
- This video shows the way I do a strainer and stay assembly, there are many many methods to achieve the same goal but heres my take on it.
Im a New Zealand Dry-land farmer and NOT a fencer, so this is not so much a "how to" as just to show how I do them. Any tips welcome. - Jak na to + styl
the level of information and detail in doing this is much appreciated. It is sometimes difficult to find quality videos that walk through the process.
Well thank you for commenting! So glad this could help.
Great to see - this is how I was doing end assemblies in the early eighties as a young man like you - The post suppliers would put my posts through the chamber a second time. These assemblies are still holding 40 years later. Holes were dug with a manual borer with an extended handle to get the 8' posts 4' in the ground. Seven wires 3 hot 4 earth spaced at every 2nd hole from the top on a standard waratah star picket, however I used standard timber treated line posts. This wire spacing enabled fast and easy replacement of broken line posts with a star post.
@@IsambardKingdom Interesting to hear how others have done it/do it. Thank you for sharing.
I use a stay block at the base of the stay and works well . I’ve never put a foot on the post and never had a problem but I can see it would work very well .
I enjoyed watching your attention to detail. I will view every strainer I see with new found respect. Cheers from Waipu.
Thanks for your comment mate, much appreciated
thanks for sharing, good explanation as you go along. i love your sped up digging. if only i could dig that fast.
well done , knowledge is power.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your comment! And yes i wish i could dig that fast too
Brilliant. From a townie who has just come to the country
Best thing to ever come from NZ and there’s been a lot 👍
Well thank you very much for your comment haha much appreciated!
Cheers for watching
Great thank you. Im a 70yr old woman so going to dig holes with an auger on a digger, and use dril and spade bit to ease a lot of the chiselling. Awesome tutorial.❤
Thank you for your comment!
Thanks for sharing that method, my friend! Here in the USA, we do H braces, which is less digging but more posts, wore tensioners, etc. I will try this on my goat pen for sure!
Yea for sure, we do use an H brace at times too just depends usually on expense of materials and personal preference. Cheers for your comment
Great techniques, really nice tight joint. Personally where I live in the UK it’s very wet a lot so we always retreat cut ends of the wood with wood preserver. Normally I use creosote posts which are more expensive but they last 50+ years and I retreat their cut ends with creosote
Yes, certainly not a bad idea re treating cut ends
Great job ,great tutorial and now I can do my first one👍
Awesome! Thank you for commenting :)
Awesome mate. Alot of work goes in to it. Respect to fencers
Cheers mate, appreciate your comment!
Excellent video dude. Beautifully sharp chainsaw too. I’m putting in some stays tomorrow for a 1600-1800 fence with chicken wire and a top and bottom plate. Not nearly as deep as yours but on rotten rock and concreted in 100mm on either side. Definitely enough to go on here, great work.
@@barneyatkinson-saul9881 thanks for commenting! Hope it went well for you.
Great video.. We have hard clay country .. I have using the post hole borer with a 200 mm auger . I bore a hole as far as I can ,then slide a half round in with matchs the hole . The I ram the stay in like you have .. saves a lot of hard digging....
Sounds like a good system!
That’s awesome mate. Job well done 👍
Thank you, I appreciate your comment. Cheers
Good to find this on CZcams for quick reference. Very tidy work too. Only thing I can think to add is using a battery drill with spade bit to get rid of bulk prior to chiselling can speed things up a bit.
Oh that’s a great idea I’ll give it a go next time! Thanks for your feedback.
Faster still, side cuts with plunge of saw. Then chisel. As long as water can drain out of pocket, no issues.
Bugle screw foot on. Pilot drill foot so only screw into post.
@@paulsmith4220 I'm pretty sure that could be done with correct technique but didn't feel safe to me as amateur.
very helpful man! Regards from Taranaki!
Awesome to hear mate, glad it helped. Thanks for ya comment.
Awesome mahi bro - can't beat good traditional kiwi fencing - posthole rammers not as neat but sure make the long stretches a breeze.
Orweyz Tungchiu cheers mate, yea for sure! I don’t mind putting in the hard yards and time if it’ll last.
Thanks for your efforts
Thank you for watching and commenting! Means a lot
Belo trabalho!
Fiquei cansado, só de assistir o vídeo!
thanks for this video, away to install four stays
Awesome! Hope it goes well!
Very nice, going to try that in upstate NY
Brilliant! Good to hear! Thanks for your comment
Awesome vid mate.
Thanks mate, I appreciate your comment!
Cheers for that mate! Just about to have my first crack at it. Not looking forward to how hard the digging is going to be though…
Good luck!
Awesome, looks good thank u
Great content man! 👌
Hunter Lindsay I’m glad you liked!
Very helpful, thank you 😊
Rachel Rells Awesome to hear!! Glad this video can help people in some way. Thanks for ya comment :).
Thanks for that. I have half a k of my own fencing to do at our place shortly and never done it before. This makes much more sense. We have clay to deal with about 300mm down so that's gonna be fun... not...
Done properly mate you’ll look at that fence and feel good every time knowing you built it! But yes fencing is not an easy task. Cheers for your comment
Thanks for the lesson!
No worries! hope it helped
Nice one mate very good
Thank you, I appreciate you commenting my friend.
Thank you from Kansas.
My pleasure! Thanks for your comment
Good vid mate another couple of ways of doing your Mita is a renovator tool.
And another way is they sell like 65mm self feed drill bits and u just use a pointed post for your stay then
@@aamdempster5824 Thanks for your comment! yea mate I’m now onto the self feed bit and pointed stays, sooo very quick and perfect every time.
@@Lindz37 👌👌
Good job. Got that tee shirt. Good old fashioned hard yacka mate
Thanks mate, I appreciate your comment
Pretty good all round.
Cheers mate appreciate you’re comment!
Hey HCL, i know with strainer posts they always do round posts. What would you advise with line posts, quarter posts or full rounds. We are getting the quarter rounds for $6 and the rounds for $10. What would be more durable long term. Wet country 3-5m of rain per year.
100% if you can afford the full rounds then go with them, I reckon they look way nicer too. People say the quarter rounds are just as strong, i farm bulls and disagree. I prefer the full rounds, but it comes down to personal preference tho
You can't beat a Kiwi bloke for getting in and gettin it done. they use their left hand for any notes/shopping lists or a quick game of tictactoe
@@2nostromo 😂😂 cheers for ya comment!
@@Lindz37 If you think a job like this is a piece of piss... you might be a kiwi.
If your boss asks you to work the weekend and you ask, "Are you taking the piss?" you might be a Kiwi.
If you worked hard all week and decide to have a piss up... yeah yer a Kiwi.
Crikey, don't get me started! :)
Good video mate. Whats the rule of thumb for the deep of your strainer post and full rounds every 4m or so for an 8 wire? Is it aways half the height out of the ground in the ground for strainer and full rounds or? Cheers John
Hey, so for strainers and any angles i generally like to use the 2.2m 175mm strainer and because the fences around me tend to be about 1100mm high, the strainers and angles go in the ground 1100mm with a foot. In this video the ground was real hard so i could get away with a 2.2m strainer which is plenty big enough. If a contractor is ramming the posts in they'll tend to go for the 2.4m pointed posts and put them 1300mm in the ground with a different footing system. As for the in lines i use 1.8m 125mm posts at a depth of 700mm in the ground again leaving 1100mm out of the ground. Ground conditions will change things a little bit, like if ground is swampy then bigger posts will be used and different footing. Hope this is of some help, Thanks
I'm looking for a new chainsaw just for fencing, what size Stihl is that and what size bar do you recommend.
This one is the Ms170 with a 14” bar it’s one of the cheapest saws stihl make but a bit better is the Ms180 with a 16” bar would be nicer. Little bit more grunt but a little more expensive .
nice bro
Hey HCL, We are going to start our fencing project soon, would just like to enquire, what sort of posthole shovel are you using, where would the best place for me to get one. This is the green shovel you are using. Thank you very much. David
I don’t know/ remember the brand but I got it from mitre ten mega. Just a basic one with a hard wood handle so lasts a bit longer
@@Lindz37 Thanks man.
I like it
Thanks, I like it too, stays solid for years and years, and i reckon it looks tidy too.
Would you kindly share your wisdom, on what is the best way to put in a straight fence. Thanks HCL!
There’s no one way haha, I put all my strainers and angles in first then put the second from the top wire on and strain, as well as the second from bottom wire on too and strain. I usually bore the holes for the in line posts instead of ramming as I don’t have a rammer but with the two wires tight you can get a decent line to follow with the in line posts, if your using stays then put them in after wires but before the inline posts. Again mate that’s just the way I do it haha.
@@Lindz37 That is really good insight. The last fence we put in was quite wonky. We had a tougher time getting the posts out that we put in, than im putting them in! Ha ha!
Top video my friend. New to farming and have a ton of strainers to replace around a block of land in Taranaki. Couple questions:
- What kind of spades are they? Any suggestions to help with digging
- Any size guidelines for your Foot and Stay blocks? should these be new and treated so they dont rot out?
- 17:30 how do you know what sort of angle to cut your stay?
@@hughezy21 hey mate, I tend to like the spade and shovel method, I like a spade that is solid steel handle and all, and prefer a shovel with a smaller head on it. Farmlands has the ideal ones I reckon.
Foot and block size no rule per se but the bigger the better just makes it harder to get em in. Yes make sure it’s treated and a step above would be to paint any cut ends with a tanalising liquid of some sort. “Metelx” I think it’s called works well.
Line your stay up against the post pre cutting your stay and it gives you an idea of the angle to cut, refit once stay block is dug in and your cut out in post is done and adjust the stay cut.
Hope that makes sense. Alternatively if there’s a heap to do, u could get a fencer with a post driver and they make very fast work of banging posts in, then u can do stays yourself if want to save money. As for foot on the rammed post I drive a Waratah full length down the back side of post on almost a 45 degree and with a couple large nails attach it to the post. Hope this helps cheers
@@Lindz37 awesome mate, im gonna give it a crack this weekend. what size timber is your stay, eg: length etc?
@@hughezy21 generally I like to use something like 2.1-2.4m long x 100ish mm diameter pointed post (pointed number 2 post) or unpointed if u are using chisel and hammer to create the pocket in the strainer post. U really can use what ever tho 1/4 rounds work too, seen half rounds used or even 100x100mm square posts. Longer stay gives better “holding”. Really short stays will tent to make the strainer pull up.
When I’m talking about the pointed post these days I drill a hole in the strainer post to accept the point of the stay, just bit quicker
Hey HCL, I am putting a 3 wire electric fence. If possible I'll go for number 1 rounds. If not possible, I'll go for a quarter rounds. My question is if I went for number 1 rounds, how many meters apart could I place them to keep older calves and bulls in a 3 wire fence? Gallagher manual says 15-20m for dairy cows. Thank you very much. David
Hey, again with this it’s personal preference but probably 7-8m spacing should be ok, can always add more wires later if u find it’s not as stock proof as you were hoping too.
@@Lindz37 what if i did 10m?
@@davidsilveira198 yea can’t see why not, just the more posts the better generally as it’s more of a visual barrier too, but yea I’m sure it would be sweet.
Hey, what did you use as a foot. Is it a number 2 or 3 quarter round cut into chunks?
Cant actually remember what I used, probably a No3
In saying that tho, u can use what ever you want, half round quarter round of what ever size as long as it’s treated for under ground, so not battens which believe it or not iv seen before haha.
@@Lindz37 I can Imagine! Thank you very much for that, it is very helpful. Great content man! Found the video extremely helpful. Keep it coming! :)
@@Lindz37 not, battens, any G.Tpost will do
Question from the USA. Just curious on the number of wires. I've noticed that the kiwi's and aussies mostly do hi tensile with 7-11 wires. I've recently switched to hi tensile smooth wire and my cows are respecting a 5 wire non electric fence. Why so many wires? I run around 300 cows.
Hey, very simple answer, generally over here most farmers will run both cattle and sheep, the sheep will go through most fences that arnt battened or that haven’t got 8 or 9 high tensile wires. Farmers here that run cows only can get away with a 1 or 2 wire generally hot fence to keep them in, as females tend to not “push” through fences to get into another mob.
Bulls, on the other hand (that I farm) will push through pretty much anything that isn’t hot sooo farming both sheep and bulls a 9 wire with 2 hots does pretty good at keeping both sheep and bulls in.
Hope that clears it up a bit for you. Thanks for your comment.
Good job there young fella Always wondered why kiwis use spades over the American 2 handle job
may be spades are quicker
I wonder the same thing but i guess its just what each-other is used to, i must admit i have never tried the 2 handle, i should give it a go one of these days, ill make a video if i ever do haha.
@@Lindz37 spade is good for facing your hole, and digging, rebate for the foot.
@@Lindz37 I started mentally screaming out "SCISSOR SHOVELS!!!" when I saw you getting deep with the regular spade 😂, but the hole looked tidy and well-emptied, plus scissors are pretty heavy, so you might've changed my mind on how to go about doing this myself! Once I get round to it... Cheers from Waitomo!
He’s alive!
Yeap it's been a while!
Hey bro what brand is that hammer
Stiletto. Chur
Do you use the same technique for a corner post just with two stays? Or do you have a different method for corners?
Same I just use one stay for the angles (corner) and just aim in in the middle of the wires, so where the pull is. If that makes sense, u can use two stays just more expensive so I use one. Both work great. Hope this helps
@@Lindz37 makes sense - thanks!
Do you make your own fencing spades?
Hey, in the video that’s a brought one, but yes my main spade I use now is home made.
All well and good if you can dig a hole that deep in your ground. I have shale at 30cm
Yea that’ll put the breaks on pretty quick. Blast the hole?
G that was actually mean 🤙
Cheers man!
Hey bro. Get yourself some pincers and you will dig all that dirt about 80% quicker. I’m a fencer in Brisbane Australia and I don’t even use a crow bar unless it’s rock shale or solidified white clay. Dirt is really tough in Brisbane.
I use pincers all the way. In farmland I can dig a hole 800ml deep in about 8 minutes that’s going for it hard core but pincers are the way.
Yea I have looked into them a bit but haven’t found a one that feels like good enough quality to not fall apart in the hard stuff, but thanks for your comment I will give it a go. Cheers
Now you’re an expert can you come & do mine 😊
Haha too many of my own to do, but nice try
No fuss simple application.
Defiantly does the job well and lasts for ages without moving, even with bulls barging through gateways haha
Much easier to use Double Shoval digging out hole.
No way you could dig a hole like that with shovels here in the ozarks.
How deep for that hole 22:28
Hey, it’s about a foot and a half usually, as long as the stay block is solidly in place and can’t move and the angle of the stay is appealing to your eye then it’s not a specific depth. Don’t go too deep or it will effectively be leavening the post up out of the ground. if that makes sense.
Cheers
That’s not moving. Looks mint
Exhausted just watching that…
😂
Why aren’t you using a post driver?
Would love to mate, but can’t afford one yet. Cheers
@@Lindz37 you must work in good ground. Stoney Ireland is a different story for hand digging. Even the post driver fails regularly.
@@johnclaffey7218 Yea certainly ground is on most of the time we have all sorts of soil types, my biggest problem is limestone country.
@@johnclaffey7218 post drivers, use a spike rammed down, first, breaks up, or moves rocks.
A man Bun? Oh Geez even the Kiwis are loosing it!
😂 yea guilty haha
🦘💨💨💨
Pay attention all Americans. This is how fence.
Haha I appreciate the comment!
Kiwis