Still The BEST 12V Air Conditioner? UNDERMOUNT AC INSTALL & TEST
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2024
- I installed an UndermountAC 12V AC unit in our Transit van conversion and it is awesome. It can run for almost 14 hrs straight on our Volthium 800AH (10kwH) 12V battery bank alone, and indefinitely with solar and alternator charging! In this video I walk you through the entire install, charging the system, and testing.
12V UndermountAC unit with ducted evaporator: undermountac.com/collections/...
Volthium 400AH 12V Lithium Phosphate Heated Battery: volthium.com/en/
For business inquiries please contact us via email: Triovanconversions@gmail.com
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Timestamps:
00:00 - 00:14 Intro
00:19- 1:29 Components
1:30 - 2:58 Mounting Location
2:59 - 4:51 Mounting Condenser and Compressor
4:52 - 7:48 Installing Evaporator and Drain Lines
7:49 - 10:37 Drilling Holes and Running Wiring
10:38 - 13:22 Electrical
13:23 - 14:06 Ducting
14:07 - 24:14 Installing AC Hoses
24:15 - 26:03 Thermostat Setup and Test
26:04 - 26:41 Charging w/ AC Coolant
26:42 - 28:49 Test and Power Draw
28:50 - 30:26 How Loud Is It?
30:27 - 30:36 Outtroe
Thanks for this video! I've been considering this system and it's extremely helpful to see how everything comes together so that I can better visualize the space requirements and potential locations. Much appreciated!
Tip - use coarse steel wool to fill the gaps in the conduit as mice detest it and will not chew on it to gain entry.
Extra tip: Steel wool rust super quickly. Brass wool doesn't rust.
@rando7th extra extra tip brass corodes. Although it does produce a protective film initially over time exposed to vibration or debris it will fail
I would just use duct seal compound, stays pliable to remove if ever needed.
WOW! $3700. I got a 12 volt for my truck under $500 12k to keep me cool while driving!
Yeah, people like this are totally crazy but I suspect a lot of them are given these products for free in hopes that they can convince us to throw money in the trash buying their overpriced products.
Thank you for this video! I just got this for my transit and am going to be using this video every step the way, huge help
Tim and Katie ... EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT ... thank you for such a good and thorough installation/review. Currently I have a roof mounted a/c, when it no longer works, I'll switch to an undermount unit which will provide more solar panel roof space. Never have enough solar panels, for sure.
Thank you, James. We’re happy to hear you found it helpful!
Clean build! I've worked on luxury yachts and your electrical looks just as good honestly.
Thank you! That means a lot
I'm in the power wash business, and there's a cool seal for bulkheads called UNI-SEAL... They sell them as small as 1/2". If I were you I would run those where you have the holes in the metal so the wires don't get cut over time
Great video and some real quality work. I did cringe when you used a pliers on the A.C. fittings though. I also NEVER have a positive and a negative battery cable touching. Fine for now but what happens in 10 years of slight movement and vibration. Probably low risk but in a risk matrix you never do low risk if it has catastrophic results.
Tim,
Thx! Very encouraging. I'm so pleased to see more modern Heat Pump systems. Most RV still uses 1970's tech for AC. I wish all RVs came with heat pump systems!
Cheers,
Eric
Many do. In fact its so popular that most RV makers ante up the few extra dollars to provide better sales. Check it out. 1970's tech is the same as 2024 tech when it comes to refrigerant systems.
This looks like standard split AC not heat pump. Looked up info on undermount site and this is NOT a heat pump. Just a magic 12v AC, very old tech.
@Chris-ut6eq Oh, okay! Thanks for the clarification! This old tech really really needs to change. Currently, I use the ecoflow wave 2 for moderate needs, but I'd love a retrofit for roof mounted systems to replace such inefficient systems.
@Chris-ut6eq haha, maybe someone will find a couple of wrecked Tesla Model Y's and remove the heatpump systems and install them in a RV. 👍
@@erickessler6094 Depending on your vehicle can consider looking for ductless mini-split systems which are in the 8-12k BTU range. But these would be for larger vehicles. A few years ago, saw someone who mounted a highly efficient system on this rear driver door, but he did a good bit of customization for the mounts. Also keep in mind if you are driving off-road the vibrations will shorten the life of any system not specifically designed for them.
Great job. 47kWp, 7 tons of high efficiency heat pumps. It’s interesting everyone that bashes you for spending YOUR money on that…all while they’ll blow $80k on a truck or boat, $20k on vacations or weddings, fill their garages, outbuildings and storage rentals full of s%it.
Great Video! Audio needs a little work in the beginning but the rest is an amazing video!
Very nice! The only thing I would say is that you might have given your self a little more slack in the lines for expansion and contraction. There were a couple in the video that looked a little tight in an application that will shift and move. Can you please post an update after the first year?
Love the shop song rehab lol
Condensers below the
van means it will catch lots of dirt and choke the same ?
No insulation on the cold air ducts ?
I got excited seeing this, as it seems like a no brainer location in terms of moving weight lower in the van and freeing up solar room. I saw the price at almost $4000 though, and my jaw dropped. Disappointing as it's fundamentally not more complex than a 12V roof unit.
These have a 13.3 EER. 48VDC mini splits are available elsewhere with 19-20 EER for $500-800.
Hi! Our actual calculated EER is 15.07 using actual Testo measurement tools and a test chamber (16,128BTU/h @ 1070W). I suspect whomever you are quoting on the higher EER numbers is not actually providing you with test reports or instrument measurements the way we do on our learn more page. All the best from UndermountAC.
@@undermountac Actually they are more like 21 seer 2 rating which is lower than the original seer rating system. I've been designing refrigerant systems as an engineer for over 40 years. I doubt you have that class of expertise. Use of inverters, as I'm sure you know, allow the makers to produce much higher seers than 20 years ago with single speed motors. DC fans and compressor can be tweaked to produce ratings this high and in time, with even better refrigerants, better yet.
Dometic 12 volt is a beast ice cold
Nice install, very expensive.
This would be great for highway only travel. For dirt roads or mud, probably not so good. You can mount a 12 volt mini split one one of the rear doors. My mini split only pulls 785 watts on the economy setting.
Excellent video, well done 👍
Why not use expanding foam to seal the pipes into/out of the floor?
As with any refrigerant system, it's better to use soft copper line sets rather than rubber hose. The molecules of refrigerant can penetrate the rubber and leak out. This gets more prone to do so with age. Rubber is provided by manufacturer to get johnny-handy to buy in with the promise of easier installation, however the issues begin after the warranty is up. Soft copper can be fitted with not much more difficulty than the cheesy rubber hoses.
And yet the rubber hoses on my cars AC seem to be fine, and when I had it checked it was full- at 20 years and over 300k miles. Meaning, modern rubber hoses with the lining, chemistry, etc., don't leak and fail in just a couple years like you suggest. Not saying copper isn't still better, but flaring/sweating/etc. are a bit out of some DIY-ers skill set.
Also, copper lines are subject to vibration and work hardening, leading to cracking in mobile applications. Which may be why you don't see any OEMs using copper lines.
Hmmm. Seems a copper line set would be superior in this application. Simple enough when the e coil is like a 24” run from the compressor.
Considering using this system for our grooming vans. Do you think this cools a considerable amount better than a roof mounted AC?
Tim - thanks for your amazingly detailed video! I have had the unit for my 144" Sprinter for a while but just getting around to doing the final startup as I had to make some custom mounting solution. What type of 2" hose did you use and how did you attach it to the evaporator - any special clips to keep them in place?
I used standard automotive 2.5″ Flexible Duct Hose and attached them to the evaporator with SS hose clamps
@@TimKatie I was looking for this info as well. Do you happen to have a link to the louvered vents that you purchased? Everyting I find is smaller than 2.5". Is it ok to clamp the 2.5" hose down to 2"?
I would have mounted high to pull heat in the cold air is on the floor and with fresh water tank i would have run evap drain lines to water tank and captured a gallon of water or more per day depending on humidity levels. My system is 24v and totally powered by batteries with enough solar to be totally electric and captured water is used with a small amout of clorox to tank every refill and run through a water softner with charcoal filters
These 12 volt systems make me wonder if you could direct connect it to solar panels an run with enough wattage and sun saving battery power?
I can’t believe that will survive underneath and behind the rear tires. The first time I drove down a gravel road it would be over.
Im not trying to 'hate' but...how does it do offroad in wet, muddy, dry, dusty, rockey and rainy conditions? Having the evaporator/condenser under the vehicle seems like it would need constant cleaning and inspection to keep the unit functioning when you need it to. Not to mention the rock guard seems pretty flimsy for its location behind the axle.
If it was possible to mount horizontally it would be better, I can see this getting knocked off if you are partial to a bit of trail camping.
Did you consider getting the heat capable model?
At the time Tim and Katie were purchasing this unit we had not released our heat capable kit with valving just yet unfortunately.
Did I miss something? Pump down and test for leaks , weigh in the charge and fill with proper coolant? This is done before any power up.
Not when you're 'johnny-handy' jury rigging an installation I doubt a short run though will produce much damage but the compressor relies on returning refrigerant to remove heat from the motor windings.
Im trying to use this in my classic truck because in Texas if i let the 454cu engine idle it burns about 12 gals of fuel a night and risk overheating engine. I hope this works great. Wish i could afford a Mercedes sprinter lol no thanks
~ 14 hrs on 10 kwh ... thats a lot of power for keeping cool.
When the van tour is coming
Surprising. And also noisy. The evaporator and condensor both look tiny, how many btu's or what size van are they for?
I'm also surprised the condensor can get enough airfow when it is didewsys like that.
I have Houghton 9500 btu on my roof, 600 amps of lithium, 3 DC to DC Victron 30 amps each, 250 amps alternator, sleep from 8:00 pm to around 7: am, remains 37 % in the morning. If you ever go to Baja, California, or Alaska with that unit underbody, that will be a disaster.
Better to roof mount for sure. It's the reason RV makers put them there.
6:20-6:25 orb floating around 😮
I would have wrapped everything in protective cable sleeves.
Where are you located?
I love the concept, but the price point is astronomically high for the components/design. 2600$ would still leave a 20% margin. they need a sell on this concept so it can get out of the niche class and into mainstream sales.
Nice but is $5100. in Canada.
I don't understand what prevents you from having all kinds of problems with a clogged up condenser and even damage from rocks and things by mounting it underneath like that. Even if it was driven only on the highway that just doesn't sound safe.
But it sounds good to 'johnny-handy'.
R-134 is being phased out.
Seems to me, that the very best a/c compressor design, would be to use a wankel rotary engine design, that style compressor would last forever, since the refrigerant oil circulates with the freon, so the seals would last forever, but you would get more refrigerant flow and compression with that type of motor, at less weight to size ratio, with higher efficiency of the rotary, than a piston style pump. 🤠👍
Most ac systems are a rotary piston design using a swash plate....like literally 99% of them are in mobile applications like this.
I don't know why this is so expensive do the company not like money? If they would stop their short sighted desire for money and sell this closer to a realistic number like 2k they would have 4x as many customers if not more. They would make so much more in the long run. I never understand why companies take this route. Maybe because they can't scale so maximizing what they can produce/sell? Rooftop or mini splits are so much cheaper it makes this option only for youtubers that get it for free.
The components and parts required for a high quality product far exceed your "realistic number" at manufactured cost. Our system is designed to last long term under severe duty with a 2 year warranty.
I think you got a good reply from the company in answer to your question. There's a big difference between a company making a high quality product exactly as good as it needs to be with top quality components versus a company just repackaging cheap crap from China and selling lots of them for a profit.
Why make more for less when you can sit back and sell a few and make more?
From a mechanics perspective....Nice install...but... Complexity=Problems...I just cant see past that..
Lotta dirt and dust etc gonna clog it up very often
I don't understand why someone would go to all the trouble to install an AC unit, when you have a dash AC that came with your vehicle. My Sprinter van is powered by a diesel engine and we just let it idle at night so we can run the dash AC. It burns about 1.2 gallons of fuel during an 8 hour period. We also use it to keep our house batteries charged if the sun is not shining to let the solar panels do their job. Our sprinter van came with a 200 AMP alternator that recharges our house batteries fairly quickly. I would imagine if this couple had to drop $4000 on this AC unit, we wouldn't being seeing this review......
Do that around other campers and you’re going to wake up with 4 flat tires. 😂
The ford isn’t diesel. These are about $1000, not 4. Running your engine at night alone in the outback is fine but not really around other people.
I have a 2016 low-roof NCV3 4x4 Sprinter that was originally a cargo van with a partition. I also live in Texas, where summers are routinely 100*+. I'll be installing a split unit auxillary AC because the dash system simply doesn't cut it, rear of the cabin is an oven once Spring turns to Sunmer.
I picked up the Undermount AC late last year, and will be installing it within the next month or so.
Why would you put that many hours on your engine idling it for that long? That is what I can’t understand, the wear and tear, I would much rather install an AC unit.
@@ritarooevans1897 Because it's a caterpillar truck engine, letting them idle doesn't hurt them, look at all the semi drivers that let their trucks idle all night so they can run the AC or heat.
My old truck is not worth the cost of this AC.
If you are selling this product for this company in any kinda of way you should at least have a discount code for This $ 4,000 air conditioner. Why let companies make thousands Off YOUR VIEWERS 🧐
you must have money to burn
No, his customers do.
$3500 bucks... no thanks.
But you get gold plated rubber hoses with burkifart fittings. You be too smart to be one of their customers. TE HE HE HE HE🙉🙊🦍🦍
great job too bad its a Ford
no reason this cost $3700 bucks, $1000 at best. you people have lost your f-ing minds
As a pure example I would like to focus on just 1 part of our system to visualize the difference. The Good Year Made in USA hoses that are included as part of the kit (52' total in each kit) are over $200 by themselves. The Burgaflex Made in USA fittings are also roughly $200 by themselves as well. Could we order hoses and fittings for CN for less? Sure, but we can't guarantee their quality long or even short term. You simply get what you pay for.
@@undermountac You could use soft coper with quick connects for $25. Bone headed engineering. But johnny-handy loves them and will buy one every few years for his builds. So who cares about how much it costs if you make beaucoup $$$$$$$$$$$$?
$3700. Haaaaaaa