You didn't waster your money ! That R18 Motor is a interference engine . So in my opinion you played it safe ! And smart and set yourself up to go another 100K ++ miles . Peace of mind for a $150 is well worth it plus the pride of knowing you did the work yourself, props FR !
This was one of the best instructional videos I've seen in a wile! all the things outside the engine r self explanatory, the inside is what mattered! n u went above and beyond to explain it I will deff have you by my side when I do mine in the near future thank you!
Thank you for posting this video. It was very detailed and well explained. Sound was great which makes a big difference in watching this tutorials. There is a lot of steps to this process but you made it look so easy to follow. Thank you!
Good video. A good 'Shade-tree' mechanic trick to find worn bearings is to use a rubber hose to your ear to find the origin of noises. Put one end of the hose to your ear and point the other end at pulley bearings, etc.
Great video, please do more! I have to take apart my oil pump because I dropped a feeler gauge while adjusting my valves. So that little mistake basically took over my weekend. Your video is extremely helpful. I have to buy some tools and parts, but I will be referring to your video extensively. Thank you Bill!
Excellent job and thank you for showing the people to stretch in the chain London recommends 90 to 100,000 miles on a timing chain vehicle and the reason is the clearance on the tappets on the valves and the cams and everything or so tight that when you lose that one or two or three are you actually lose about a third to a fifth of the performance of the car so by changing that on a scheduled interval you will find your car will Peak Performance less top-end noise because now it's all tight again
Thinking about the timing chain on my '08 at about 170k miles. Engine was apart for a short block replacement around 100k, but I'm assuming its still got the original chain and tensioners as that was warranty work and no tech is going to do anything extra when doing warranty work. The warranty work is also probably why I have an oil leak now... but that's beside the point. There's definitely a noise, but seeing your chain is definitely good. I feel like that length should be taken up by the tensioners without any issue. I can see it getting noisy for sure, but I don't think that would cause any real harm. I'll definitely be coming back to this video if / when I decide to dig into this project, thanks. I'll probably check valves first though.
Thanks for the video showing how you went through this process very informative and helpful but one thing I want to add that timing chain you bought for $150 seems a bit overpriced I got on Amazon bought a timing chain kit that included the top gear and lower gear and the two plastic chain guide rails and the tensioner basically the whole kit for $55 with free delivery. So thanks for your helpful insight on the insulation process I don't think it's going to be much different since it's a 1.8 Honda 2013 Civic
I had rattle on my 08 civic LX coupe(approx 200 000km) and It was the A/C compressor pulley bearing that was worn out, I didn't need to troubleshoot far because luckily for me the clutch magnet on the compressor also let go at the same time so I had no A/C for a few weeks, what a coincidence. Bought a compressor pulley and clutch+ magnet kit on amazon for 100$ and fixed the problem
Thanks for posting this. It is very helpful. (I'm considering replacing the timing chain in my 2007 Civic 1.8L.) I definitely appreciate you showing your "challenges"--such as trying to put the cover back in/on without getting the "gasket" all over the other parts. Do you think putting the gasket on the engine block instead of the cover would help prevent this?
Thanks for all the effort to make this video. I have a timing chain cover oil leak. What material did you reseal your cover with? Did you have any leaks?
Vaseline will help make o-rings sticky and will stay in place. The plastic chain guides weren't wore down. But with all the hot-cold cycles they become brittle, possibly failing.
@@AR-mb3id I didn't pay attention to what those o rings were sealing, but your saying those o rings don't already encounter another petroleum based lubricant like engine oil?
I have a FN Type R 2007 211,000 klm timing chain getting done next week my car i service all the time have a Honda Mechanic who owns his own shop and look after my car like Gold never been in a smash always garaged love it.Was your Type R pinging at all if so this is due to the timing chain stretched as my mechanic informed me.Did you have the coolant redone.
Great video. I believe I am having the same problem. Do you have any idea what may have caused the strain on the timing chain? Was the chain properly receiving oil? Do these cam assemblies have a solenoid valve to control oil to the chain? Thank you.
Those guides can dry rot and break. I would have changed them for what they cost. Already in there. I’ve seen them break in F-150. Also, was there any thread locker on the bolts for the guides?
Agreed I mean 20 bucks for them you are already that far into it just replace it all put it back together then you know it’s done and good for another 200
Also by the way timing chain stretch might look like it's not much but just a tiny bit like one or two mm is enough to cause issues Ivan from pine hollow diagnostics was working on a Maserati that was stretched about 3 mm and it would literally jump time
That difference in the length of chains won't effect anything, because the hydraulic tensioner will make up for it to keep it tight. And of course that loose is either due to heat or the wear out.
I did my 07 tsx, k searies belt because of a clatter noise while idling. wound up being the guide on the oil pump chain had gone. I feal like the chains last for ever, it's the plastic guides that give out
How do you get the pivot bolt off of the left side timing chain guide mine's really stuck in there and I'm having trouble getting it out I'm afraid I'm going to round off the inside of the hex bolt. Is it reverse thread or something? Any guidance would be extremely appreciated
Dude its your motor mount. The mount isn't supposed to be in two pieces like that. It is a hydraulic mount. It has fluid inside the rubber. Put that on and your clunking and bumping will go away
That motor mount is in tact, you can see it pretty well at 4:00 in the video. Yes, the upper engine mount is a common failure but the one on his vehicle has not failed. It is in two pieces (mine has failed and I'm getting ready to replace it) and the upper bracket that bolts onto the timing chain cover has a single bolt that goes into the hydraulic rubber boot.
I would never put the old guy to back in because the plastic is in old and heated when you retorque it back and it causes stress cracks and can come apart and very short. Of time
Hey Bill...... i was initially disappointed in your video. But i sat through it anyway. The reassemble was good. If you're gonna make more vids, invest in a stand for the cam/phone. Good info on the chain length. I have a fri eddnd with the same problem and we will tackle it this week coming up.
Reminder do not make a full rotation without the chain connected with either the top or bottom doing so can cause the Pistons to hit the valves and bend them
I'm thinking about replacing the timming chan on my 09 daily honda fit, it makes a rattle noise around 2200 and 3000 RPM when cold, it really does sound like a part of the cat is loose inside it and its rattling, but beeing so rev and temp depending I think it might be the timming chain. My car has 160.000KM on the clock, 90% of highway drive.
it's hard to diagnose for sure. Make sure you eliminate every pulley before you go for the chain. Take the belt off and spin everything to check for any abnormal noise.
What systems or noises was this 1.8 making and was it @ ideal or road speeds or both? I have a 2012 honda civic making a noise @ 35 miles an hour and up in speed but not @ ideal and i have been trying for months to figure out were it is coming from i watched your video a thought i would ask as i have run out of ideas were the noise is coming from and i figure it could be timing chain as the motor has over 200 thousand miles on it but it runs strong with no other problems and the transmission is shifting normally. Thanks for any comments
When you went to start your engine I heard a cracking sound. Now I have the same car and it makes the same noise upon startup. I was thinking it might be the starter what do you think? How long have you had the sound also?
Old comment, but here’s my answer. Check the passenger motor mounts. They are a very common source for rattles and knocks. There’s good vids on YT showing how to diagnose a bad motor mount on 8th gen civics.
Rattling, try changing the belt tensioner and belt. If that doesn’t work, check engine and transmission mounts. My gf car is rattling and it’s the belt tensioner.
Hello, at 15:54 when you align the cam sprocket to the UP position, does it matter that you moved it independently from the crank sprocket? I thought You needed to move both at the same time while the chain is in place?
Everyone is saying the chains don't fail but mine is making noise, from my exp sounds like a worn out guide. Haven't done much inspection yet but I can make a video so people can hear it.
The dealer is correct. There is no maintenance schedule for the chain. But the service manual also publishes a limit on how much the chain can be stretched. If it beyond this limit it should be replaced.
It’s the belt tensioner. Not the chain. If you study the R18 engine it will tell you the belt tensioners fail a lot and make racket in doing so. The lifespan for the belt tensioner is like 60 000 miles
sorry to reply so late. I think there's a bolt around the top rear of the engine which isn't marked on the service manual diagram. Did you get it off finally? Yes you have to remove the water pump to get it out, but not the PS pump as I recall
Long story sure they once got a truck real cheap because the guy couldn't figure out why the hesitation problem at 90,000 miles that needed a timing chain and gears creating a 17 degree fluctuation the timing that the computer couldn't keep up with
Reply? (I have this same question. Looks like it might be a possible solution--to put it on the engine block--to help prevent spreading it on other parts as you lower the cover back into the engine compartment.) I'd really like to get some feedback on this as I'm considering changing the timing chain in my 2007 Civic. :)
For that you need a thick, chunky 19mm socket. It's the very very best way to remove those - you'll be amazed. you put a normal 19mm socket on there and it doesn't budge, but the fatty does the trick. Such as this: www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
You didn't waster your money ! That R18 Motor is a interference engine . So in my opinion you played it safe ! And smart and set yourself up to go another 100K ++ miles . Peace of mind for a $150 is well worth it plus the pride of knowing you did the work yourself, props FR !
even if it wasn't the chain, you did a great service for us all by showing how to change it.... thanks mate.
This was one of the best instructional videos I've seen in a wile! all the things outside the engine r self explanatory, the inside is what mattered! n u went above and beyond to explain it I will deff have you by my side when I do mine in the near future thank you!
Thank you for posting this video. It was very detailed and well explained. Sound was great which makes a big difference in watching this tutorials. There is a lot of steps to this process but you made it look so easy to follow. Thank you!
Good video. A good 'Shade-tree' mechanic trick to find worn bearings is to use a rubber hose to your ear to find the origin of noises. Put one end of the hose to your ear and point the other end at pulley bearings, etc.
Great video, please do more! I have to take apart my oil pump because I dropped a feeler gauge while adjusting my valves. So that little mistake basically took over my weekend. Your video is extremely helpful. I have to buy some tools and parts, but I will be referring to your video extensively. Thank you Bill!
The valves have to be adjusted manually in these cars?
Great video! You did a nice honest explanation of the steps you took. Nice "real world" explanation.
Excellent job and thank you for showing the people to stretch in the chain London recommends 90 to 100,000 miles on a timing chain vehicle and the reason is the clearance on the tappets on the valves and the cams and everything or so tight that when you lose that one or two or three are you actually lose about a third to a fifth of the performance of the car so by changing that on a scheduled interval you will find your car will Peak Performance less top-end noise because now it's all tight again
I don’t think the extra 2 mm will make a difference because the tensioner will adjust for those specs.
Thinking about the timing chain on my '08 at about 170k miles. Engine was apart for a short block replacement around 100k, but I'm assuming its still got the original chain and tensioners as that was warranty work and no tech is going to do anything extra when doing warranty work. The warranty work is also probably why I have an oil leak now... but that's beside the point. There's definitely a noise, but seeing your chain is definitely good. I feel like that length should be taken up by the tensioners without any issue. I can see it getting noisy for sure, but I don't think that would cause any real harm. I'll definitely be coming back to this video if / when I decide to dig into this project, thanks. I'll probably check valves first though.
This video has tons of info 👍🏽
Thanks for the video showing how you went through this process very informative and helpful but one thing I want to add that timing chain you bought for $150 seems a bit overpriced I got on Amazon bought a timing chain kit that included the top gear and lower gear and the two plastic chain guide rails and the tensioner basically the whole kit for $55 with free delivery. So thanks for your helpful insight on the insulation process I don't think it's going to be much different since it's a 1.8 Honda 2013 Civic
I had rattle on my 08 civic LX coupe(approx 200 000km) and It was the A/C compressor pulley bearing that was worn out, I didn't need to troubleshoot far because luckily for me the clutch magnet on the compressor also let go at the same time so I had no A/C for a few weeks, what a coincidence. Bought a compressor pulley and clutch+ magnet kit on amazon for 100$ and fixed the problem
Thank you for showing me that. I'm currently deciding if I need to change the chain.
Thanks for posting this. It is very helpful. (I'm considering replacing the timing chain in my 2007 Civic 1.8L.) I definitely appreciate you showing your "challenges"--such as trying to put the cover back in/on without getting the "gasket" all over the other parts. Do you think putting the gasket on the engine block instead of the cover would help prevent this?
Great video , what torque wrench are u using. I have the harbor freight one and I don’t trust it one bit.
Great job in both the work and video!
I'm from Beasil I loved your tips thank you so much
Thanks sir ,for your clear good showing of change timing chain ,,
Is there a consensus on whether or not some threadlock blue would be beneficial or harmful on the guides?
Thanks for all the effort to make this video. I have a timing chain cover oil leak. What material did you reseal your cover with? Did you have any leaks?
Vaseline will help make o-rings sticky and will stay in place. The plastic chain guides weren't wore down. But with all the hot-cold cycles they become brittle, possibly failing.
Vaseline is petroleum based and will degrade rubber orings. Better to use a synthetic like silicone such as permatex synthetic brake parts lubricant.
@@AR-mb3id I didn't pay attention to what those o rings were sealing, but your saying those o rings don't already encounter another petroleum based lubricant like engine oil?
@@kinger557 you gotta a good point there.
That's funny, he said he's not a mechanic @ 30.35. He's way better than most mechanics.
I have a FN Type R 2007 211,000 klm timing chain getting done next week my car i service all the time have a Honda Mechanic who owns his own shop and look after my car like Gold never been in a smash always garaged love it.Was your Type R pinging at all if so this is due to the timing chain stretched as my mechanic informed me.Did you have the coolant redone.
Great video. I believe I am having the same problem. Do you have any idea what may have caused the strain on the timing chain? Was the chain properly receiving oil? Do these cam assemblies have a solenoid valve to control oil to the chain? Thank you.
Those guides can dry rot and break. I would have changed them for what they cost. Already in there.
I’ve seen them break in F-150.
Also, was there any thread locker on the bolts for the guides?
Agreed I mean 20 bucks for them you are already that far into it just replace it all put it back together then you know it’s done and good for another 200
Could you help me, I need the tightening specifications of those screws and the crankshaft pulley
Nicely done, thank you for making this video
Also by the way timing chain stretch might look like it's not much but just a tiny bit like one or two mm is enough to cause issues Ivan from pine hollow diagnostics was working on a Maserati that was stretched about 3 mm and it would literally jump time
That difference in the length of chains won't effect anything, because the hydraulic tensioner will make up for it to keep it tight. And of course that loose is either due to heat or the wear out.
awesome video mate.. i might try the camera mans egg mcmuffin too lol
I did my 07 tsx, k searies belt because of a clatter noise while idling. wound up being the guide on the oil pump chain had gone. I feal like the chains last for ever, it's the plastic guides that give out
How do you get the pivot bolt off of the left side timing chain guide mine's really stuck in there and I'm having trouble getting it out I'm afraid I'm going to round off the inside of the hex bolt. Is it reverse thread or something? Any guidance would be extremely appreciated
Dude its your motor mount. The mount isn't supposed to be in two pieces like that. It is a hydraulic mount. It has fluid inside the rubber. Put that on and your clunking and bumping will go away
That motor mount is in tact, you can see it pretty well at 4:00 in the video. Yes, the upper engine mount is a common failure but the one on his vehicle has not failed. It is in two pieces (mine has failed and I'm getting ready to replace it) and the upper bracket that bolts onto the timing chain cover has a single bolt that goes into the hydraulic rubber boot.
Just what I was looking for, thanks.
That thing that you didn't know what it was is one of the upper engine mounts
Good job, good instructional video.
I would never put the old guy to back in because the plastic is in old and heated when you retorque it back and it causes stress cracks and can come apart and very short. Of time
Hey Bill...... i was initially disappointed in your video. But i sat through it anyway. The reassemble was good. If you're gonna make more vids, invest in a stand for the cam/phone. Good info on the chain length. I have a fri eddnd with the same problem and we will tackle it this week coming up.
FD the belt tensioner can noise when cold start.
great video but wish you would have showed how to remove the old chain.....
charosenz Right.
Take the tensioner off and the guides
What is that pulley that hanging on? And also how much torque did put on 3 bolt chain guide?
YOU ARE EXELLENT BROO IT WAS SO HELPFUL
Thank's for the video,bro!
Reminder do not make a full rotation without the chain connected with either the top or bottom doing so can cause the Pistons to hit the valves and bend them
Good video, well explained.
I'd say he also needs to change spark plugs and clean fuel injectors (just add lucas cleaner)
I'm thinking about replacing the timming chan on my 09 daily honda fit, it makes a rattle noise around 2200 and 3000 RPM when cold, it really does sound like a part of the cat is loose inside it and its rattling, but beeing so rev and temp depending I think it might be the timming chain. My car has 160.000KM on the clock, 90% of highway drive.
it's hard to diagnose for sure. Make sure you eliminate every pulley before you go for the chain. Take the belt off and spin everything to check for any abnormal noise.
My '04 Civic used to have a rattle at low RPM. It was just loose heat shielding on the catalytic converter.
Your old Chain is Stretched which is why they are a different length.
Sou do Brasil foi muito bom sua dicas obrigado
I just wanna know what are the torque specs on those bolts around the timing cover.
Thanks.
What kinda noise was this 1.8 making and was it at ideal or road speed or both.
Amazing video!!
What a great video. Does your car burn any oil? If so how much?
not burning any oil so far
What systems or noises was this 1.8 making and was it @ ideal or road speeds or both? I have a 2012 honda civic making a noise @ 35 miles an hour and up in speed but not @ ideal and i have been trying for months to figure out were it is coming from i watched your video a thought i would ask as i have run out of ideas were the noise is coming from and i figure it could be timing chain as the motor has over 200 thousand miles on it but it runs strong with no other problems and the transmission is shifting normally. Thanks for any comments
It was a rattle as I remember been many years now what noise is yours making?
@@hoddy2001 and you thought it was valve chatter and adjusted your valves first? Sounds exactly like the sound mine is making at 170k miles
lol Cameraman had to go to bed lmao
207,000 miles on my EX coupe. I have the same rattle, chatter sound and it's annoying. Replacing the chain this week.
How’d
She go boys
Cool video Dad this is Daniel and mason
When you went to start your engine I heard a cracking sound. Now I have the same car and it makes the same noise upon startup. I was thinking it might be the starter what do you think? How long have you had the sound also?
I have that noise too!!! What is it then?
Old comment, but here’s my answer. Check the passenger motor mounts. They are a very common source for rattles and knocks. There’s good vids on YT showing how to diagnose a bad motor mount on 8th gen civics.
air compressor? what part is that
im in Sydney.
is this 2006-2011 year model? I thought there is VTC=valve timing adjustment actuator gear. Mine is rattling when start and I think VTC is bad.
Rattling, try changing the belt tensioner and belt. If that doesn’t work, check engine and transmission mounts.
My gf car is rattling and it’s the belt tensioner.
How long (hours wise) did this take y’all?
Hello, at 15:54 when you align the cam sprocket to the UP position, does it matter that you moved it independently from the crank sprocket? I thought You needed to move both at the same time while the chain is in place?
I'm not seeing that at 15:54.
Bill Hodson pardon me I meant 10:54. Did you just move the sprocket by hand?
jon ramirez you rotate it there before you take the chain off so the engine is set to TDC for cylinder 1
Bill Hodson ok thanks for your help
Thanks this video.
Nice video! Thx!
Bill, when you started your car, I heard a scraping sound, any chance you also have an issue with the starter?
I have the same car and same noise.
Hi, i remove the pin for my new tensioner and it came out. Do you have any idea how to pull it back?
Uh oh. Yes you can compress the tensioner and reinsert the spring.
Everyone is saying the chains don't fail but mine is making noise, from my exp sounds like a worn out guide. Haven't done much inspection yet but I can make a video so people can hear it.
Does the chain have to be replaced? A dealer told me its not required by the maintenance schedule for 2006-2011 hondas.
The dealer is correct. There is no maintenance schedule for the chain. But the service manual also publishes a limit on how much the chain can be stretched. If it beyond this limit it should be replaced.
It’s the belt tensioner. Not the chain. If you study the R18 engine it will tell you the belt tensioners fail a lot and make racket in doing so. The lifespan for the belt tensioner is like 60 000 miles
@@raiderrichard7291 253k on my gf’s 😂
Changing it in a couple months when it warms up.
Good question i wanna know that info
Was the rattle only visible at 100kmh once running for over 20mins??
No it was always there even from start-up.
Did you remove the power steering pulley or the water pump to remove the timing cover? I cant seem to get mine to move!
sorry to reply so late. I think there's a bolt around the top rear of the engine which isn't marked on the service manual diagram. Did you get it off finally? Yes you have to remove the water pump to get it out, but not the PS pump as I recall
@@hoddy2001 I removed the power steering pump but not the water pump and the cover went on fairly easy.
@@hoddy2001 the water pump is not blocking the cover or any nuts, just the tensioner had to come off
Does any one know the torque specs for the timing chain guides ? 15:03
Long story sure they once got a truck real cheap because the guy couldn't figure out why the hesitation problem at 90,000 miles that needed a timing chain and gears creating a 17 degree fluctuation the timing that the computer couldn't keep up with
How is everything so far? Do you regret not changing the guides for the tensionor?
No everything is still running smoothly.
Pork Meinster n
Air compressor pulley?
cars are highly engineered sir, mm's make a big difference if drivetrain.
is it possible to put gasket on the block instead of the cover?
Reply? (I have this same question. Looks like it might be a possible solution--to put it on the engine block--to help prevent spreading it on other parts as you lower the cover back into the engine compartment.)
I'd really like to get some feedback on this as I'm considering changing the timing chain in my 2007 Civic. :)
It is possible but it’s better to put it on the surface of the object because it prevents more of a leak
2mm in engineering terms is typically way out of tolerance
Hey... What tool did u use to remove the crank pulley/ harmonic balancer
Sub'd and blue button for a great video
For that you need a thick, chunky 19mm socket. It's the very very best way to remove those - you'll be amazed. you put a normal 19mm socket on there and it doesn't budge, but the fatty does the trick. Such as this: www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
Nice
You should really line everything up before dissassembling it
It’s a good tutorial but watching it is making me dizzy because of the camera is shaking
sorry about that dude. I'll ask my son to hold the camera better next time.
How many miles do u have
Lorenzo Lacampagne 200,000 km or 120,000 mi
160,000 mi
@@hoddy2001 still chugging along? I'm at 150,000 on my 07 coupe here in alaska
bakit yung samimin hindi umadaw🤔
ok! i have no idea what you said
Could you help me, I need the tightening specifications of those screws and the crankshaft pulley