Great clip guys, love the attention to details. And I like the vertical installation too Mark. But for the horizontal installation, I would recommend the top layer be applied first so as to prevent water from pooling in the overlap and the taped seem. (which we hope won't get there, but you never know....) Building science isn't just about trying to control condensation and stopping water from getting in, but also giving water a preferred place to go if it does. Even if the manufacturer says otherwise.... question everything, and express your concerns, and we'll all keep learning and improving. 👍
Just to clarify: I'm not saying don't follow the manufacturers installation instructions, on the contrary. We need to follow their installation instructions more than ever. BUT manufacturers don't know EVERYTHING, and where some of us see an issue or come across a problem - then please please please contact said manufacturer to find a solution.
@@michaelcook9414 Might be a bit of confusion from the manufacturers installation instructions, as to the way you layer it would change depending on if the wrap is applied on the inside like this, or the outside. If on the outside, starting at the bottom up would be best, but as you said, on the inside, the other way around would be better.
Michael, if water gets into the wall cavity via rain, your insulation will be completely saturated before anything might pool in your lap of the internal wrap. Building science wise, even if this lap was changed, and water that may be allowed in here, could flow down to the bottom plate, there is nothing designed in this wall system to allow it to go anywhere after that. If water got in there, you’d need to open it all up and dry it out and reinstall everything. The cavity must be a water free zone.
Really great video and i love the cimmitment to educating us on best practices. I would love to see how you would recommend making an existing weatherboard/chamferboard home (queenslander) to passive standards, especially when the external cladding isn't removed. I'd imagine it's much the same but i would think that consideration needs to be taken in the wall batts sitting directly on the external cladding and providing an air cavity to dry up any moisture that may come through. Love to hear your thoughts on a video on how to achieve this
Great video! Very helpful. Thank you for making it. But a quick question, as this looks to be a new build, how come the wrap wasn't put on the outside? Would have liked to see an example of how the services are run for the DIY wrapper, ie a powerpoint/water.
@@daniel.s8126 Yes there are a few ways to 'solve' the issue, which is why I was hoping they would do a few examples considering the wrap install was covered off really well. I can see the electrician just cutting the wrap if there isn't enough room when mounting a powerpoint or the plumber doing silly things as it was too tight. Plus I assume the battens would be cut/notched to allow the power to be ran around the walls to keep it all on the inside of the wrap?
In a previous efficiency matrix video you guys were installing an air tightness membrane and either double sided taping every stud or putting staples on ALL studs and putting pieces of tape over the staples after. Here it seems you only fix the edges of the air-tightness membrane with staples and tape the joints. Is it not considered necessary now to fix the middle of the sheets?
Hi, just a question in regards to plaster battens. What’s the best way to do the ceiling on a renovation. Because you would struggle to nail directly to old rafter? Is there a way you can still use furring Chanel brackets?
I suppose the plasterboard batterns, plasterboard and any baseboard/skirting would cover the the 30mm overlap onto the floor - just thinking for those with exposed concrete floors. Is this something the builder would do, or someone like Efficiency Matrix, as a subcontractor? Do you have any indicative costs for this
Great video! With the plasterboard having a significant gap now because of the spacer does it not require a thicker plasterboard to prevent and hollow sound and or wobble/dipping? Or is something else done to reduce this issue? Or am I just overthinking it!!
Most European homes and businesses are not well insulated and not energy efficient. An energy efficient home or business is more comfortable and saves money in the long run. Solar energy on your roof combined with battery storage can make people more independent from the grid and natural gas supplies. Add solar and supplemental electric heating, infrared heating or a heat pump for home or business heating and cooling All big box stores and manufacturing sites can support solar energy on their roofs or solar canopies on their parking lots. Added insulation, double or triple glaze windows, energy efficient doors, energy efficient heating and cooling systems, energy efficient appliances, LED lighting, smart thermostats, solar panels combined with battery storage and a electric vehicle charger in the garage or car park. People are too focused on the short term costs and miss out on long term savings and comfort. Blower door testing and air sealing are under appreciated tools.Even if you have money to burn you should not waste it. Climate Change will impact everyone. Leave a better future for your children and grandchildren. Join in and speak up for the future of the planet
These videos are vital to open this work up to a new generation of builders
Great clip guys, love the attention to details.
And I like the vertical installation too Mark.
But for the horizontal installation, I would recommend the top layer be applied first so as to prevent water from pooling in the overlap and the taped seem. (which we hope won't get there, but you never know....)
Building science isn't just about trying to control condensation and stopping water from getting in, but also giving water a preferred place to go if it does. Even if the manufacturer says otherwise.... question everything, and express your concerns, and we'll all keep learning and improving. 👍
Just to clarify: I'm not saying don't follow the manufacturers installation instructions, on the contrary. We need to follow their installation instructions more than ever. BUT manufacturers don't know EVERYTHING, and where some of us see an issue or come across a problem - then please please please contact said manufacturer to find a solution.
@@michaelcook9414 Might be a bit of confusion from the manufacturers installation instructions, as to the way you layer it would change depending on if the wrap is applied on the inside like this, or the outside. If on the outside, starting at the bottom up would be best, but as you said, on the inside, the other way around would be better.
Michael, if water gets into the wall cavity via rain, your insulation will be completely saturated before anything might pool in your lap of the internal wrap.
Building science wise, even if this lap was changed, and water that may be allowed in here, could flow down to the bottom plate, there is nothing designed in this wall system to allow it to go anywhere after that.
If water got in there, you’d need to open it all up and dry it out and reinstall everything.
The cavity must be a water free zone.
Really great video and i love the cimmitment to educating us on best practices. I would love to see how you would recommend making an existing weatherboard/chamferboard home (queenslander) to passive standards, especially when the external cladding isn't removed. I'd imagine it's much the same but i would think that consideration needs to be taken in the wall batts sitting directly on the external cladding and providing an air cavity to dry up any moisture that may come through. Love to hear your thoughts on a video on how to achieve this
Great video! Very helpful. Thank you for making it. But a quick question, as this looks to be a new build, how come the wrap wasn't put on the outside? Would have liked to see an example of how the services are run for the DIY wrapper, ie a powerpoint/water.
External vapour permeable wrap is still required on the outside.
Electrical services and plumbing can run in the services cavity in front of the wrap.
@@daniel.s8126 Yes there are a few ways to 'solve' the issue, which is why I was hoping they would do a few examples considering the wrap install was covered off really well. I can see the electrician just cutting the wrap if there isn't enough room when mounting a powerpoint or the plumber doing silly things as it was too tight. Plus I assume the battens would be cut/notched to allow the power to be ran around the walls to keep it all on the inside of the wrap?
Even if you don’t cut it right the first time as long as you can have a laugh 😂
Correct!
Hi, are the holes made by the staples or from drywall screws / nails not a problem for maintaining air tightness?
In a previous efficiency matrix video you guys were installing an air tightness membrane and either double sided taping every stud or putting staples on ALL studs and putting pieces of tape over the staples after. Here it seems you only fix the edges of the air-tightness membrane with staples and tape the joints. Is it not considered necessary now to fix the middle of the sheets?
Fix the middle join? After this installation a services cavity is expected to be installed which also doubles as a mechanical fix.
Hi, just a question in regards to plaster battens.
What’s the best way to do the ceiling on a renovation.
Because you would struggle to nail directly to old rafter?
Is there a way you can still use furring Chanel brackets?
I suppose the plasterboard batterns, plasterboard and any baseboard/skirting would cover the the 30mm overlap onto the floor - just thinking for those with exposed concrete floors.
Is this something the builder would do, or someone like Efficiency Matrix, as a subcontractor? Do you have any indicative costs for this
Correct.
Once these wraps are installed on an older house during a renovation, is it likely an energy recovery system is required for ventilation?
Yes, it's a system all or nothing.
Great video!
With the plasterboard having a significant gap now because of the spacer does it not require a thicker plasterboard to prevent and hollow sound and or wobble/dipping? Or is something else done to reduce this issue?
Or am I just overthinking it!!
Most European homes and businesses are not well insulated and not energy efficient.
An energy efficient home or business is more comfortable and saves money in the long run.
Solar energy on your roof combined with battery storage can make people more independent from the grid and natural gas supplies. Add solar and supplemental electric heating, infrared heating or a heat pump for home or business heating and cooling
All big box stores and manufacturing sites can support solar energy on their roofs or solar canopies on their parking lots.
Added insulation, double or triple glaze windows, energy efficient doors, energy efficient heating and cooling systems, energy efficient appliances, LED lighting, smart thermostats, solar panels combined with battery storage and a electric vehicle charger in the garage or car park. People are too focused on the short term costs and miss out on long term savings and comfort. Blower door testing and air sealing are under appreciated tools.Even if you have money to burn you should not waste it. Climate Change will impact everyone. Leave a better future for your children and grandchildren. Join in and speak up for the future of the planet