How To Improve Lionel Train Performance With Extra Lockons
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- čas přidán 8. 12. 2020
- Episode 49: Does your train slow down when it is away from the transformer? Auxiliary power lockons may be your simple and quick solution!
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Finally I found the answer !! I figured the more track you had. You would need more voltage. But it seems no one is talking about that. After seeing some of these big layouts. With hundreds of feet of track. I did not think it would be so difficult. To find out about voltage. Thanks, very simple to add more power sources. Simple picture solves the question. Thank You!
You're welcome!!
Excellent demonstration. Thank you!
THANKS!!!! HEARD ABOUT "FEEDER WIRES" BUT NEVER KNEW HOW TO DO IT!!!!
Your videos have really helped me iron out the issues with my layout, greatly appreciated!
Thank you! Happy to help!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I have some really old O27 track and some long runs (4ft by 8ft double loop layout). A connection to the transformer about every 9 pieces of track works very well.
A poor connection between 2 pieces of track can heat up the track noticeably. After setting up a new layout and letting a train run around it for awhile, turn off the track and run your hand over all the connections. Be careful, a particularly bad connection can get hot enough to burn! Any connection which is significantly warmer than the rest needs attention. Rusty pins need to be cleaned. Loose fitting pins need to be tightened. Replacing the tracks on both sides of the hot spot is a good alternative
Good tip!
I have a Lionel polar express train with an 80 transformer. I noticed, as it makes its way around the simple small round track (nothing else connected) I have the train slows down after 10 laps or so, at full speed. It starts off super fast even pills out but slows 1/4 the speed, anything I should consider?
A family member of mine has the same train without this issue, but I have been shocked by theirs before on the track, is this normal? I haven’t had the urge to test mine nor double check theirs again 😂
Thanks for your expertise
@@ProjectAnubisUSA 2nd issue first. Yes, if you touch the outside rail and center rail at the same time, you can get shocked. It's only 18v so it's far from fatal, but can give you a tingle.
Without seeing your training action, I would think that heat/friction is the problem. First make sure all gears are properly lubricated. If you have a multimeter, try to monitor the amperage of the motor. If amps increase as your train slows there could be some sort of loose electrical connection that only manifests as the motor heats up. If this was a Postwar locomotive I'd suggest checking the motor brushes, but that's not a possibility with modern motors. Good luck!
Thank you for this video. My layout is small , but there has been a loss of power when my engine crosses over a vintage lionel o22 right hand manual switch. The switch has a small part where its not metal, and I have to gun the train full throttle or the engine stops. Adding the lockon for boosting power past the area is helping, and while the train still occassionally stops, the problem is less, and I dont have to gun it at high speeds just medium speed . Very informative video , thanks again.
Some locomotives, especially if they were designed as O27, have their pickup rollers spaced in such as way that they lose power on parts of O22 turnouts. If that's the case, there's no permanent cure without modifying the locomotive.
I happened on this solution at the age of 12 in 1957! I had a fairly large circular track, with only manual switches, and only one electric signal.
I'm a bit younger than you. I first did this when I was around 9, but it was in the 1970's. :-)
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks what about with fas track?
While I do not have Fastrack to demonstrate with, the principle is the same. Install two or more lockons as necessary (or attach the necessary wires to the underside of the track) and just make sure that the outside rail connections are together and the inside rail connections are together - red to red to red and black to black to black.
Also, check your track pins very carefully with Fastrack. While it looks great, many who use it have told me stories of poor electrical contacts. You may want to use a few MORE power lockons/connections than you would with tubular track. [BTW, just to eliminate the possibility of problems, on my permanent O27 layout I attach feeder wires every 6 feet or less.]
I tried several things and what worked nicely for my K-Line Penn was I put the actual hot wire inside the middle track, and neutral wire in the outer track, then I connected the track piece inside with the wires.. been going strong for 2 years without power loss and it's really snug so no fear of wires coming out
That works, but I imagine it can be difficult to shove both the wires and the track pins into the adjoining track.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks not difficult at all.. the wires are very small.. so I exposed ¹/²" of wire on each, then placed them in the open slots of the track. Then, I just pushed firmly with the connecting track piece and done.. took a total of 2 mins.. that includes exposing the wire.. 2 min tops! Try it out, you will always use the technique going forward I promise
@@MortisNuntius So you are or are not using track pins where your wire connects????
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks , it would probably work quite well as long as you sand down the pin a bit so you have room for the wire.
Donde arreglan trenes Lionel en CDMX?
OKAY SO THIS MIGHT BE A DUMB QUESTION BUT I JUST NEED CLARIFICATION SO IM RUNNING THE CW80 TRANSFORMER AND YOU KNOW HOW IT HAS 4 POSTS ON IT? SO FOR MY 2ND LOCKON AM I CONNECTING THE WIRES TO THE EXACT SAME POSTS AS MY #1 LOCKON?
Yes. The other posts are constant voltage (accessories).
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks OKAY THANK YOU
I've run ONLY one wire from lock-on to lock-on...and I believe it has been effective. Running #1 on main lock-on to only #1 on second lock-on...not the #2...seems to have worked for me. Am I wrong?
That could be effective if you had a loose connection or other power drain somewhere along the center rail.
What size wire is best for lockons
If memory serves correctly, the maximum gauge that will easily fit in a Lionel Fahnestock clip is 16 gauge.
I have a really old Lionel train set and I'm using really old train track. My train slows down alot when I hit corners. Its really bad to the point where I have a hard time setting the speed to a constant speed and letting it run because it will be to much power for the straight sections if it makes it and it stalls in the corners at a lower power setting. My locomotive has a really tall gear ratio and is capable of incredible speeds. I need to reduce the friction in the locomotive around the bends. I cleaned the track and the locomotive wheels and I don't know what to do my train doesn't run smoothly like that. But it runs great in straight sections.
Without knowing exactly what you have, I can only respond in general terms.
You are correct that friction is an enemy. There will naturally be some slowing of the train in tight curves with the natural friction between the flanges and the track. However, excessive slowing may be caused by:
1) Running the locomotive on tighter curves than it was designed for, such as a standard O (O-31) locomotive on O27 curves.
2) The wheel bearings for the locomotive and cars may require lubrication. Every added bit of friction will multiply the problem.
3) Voltage loss. If the track is "very old", cleaning the surface may not be sufficient as there could be corrosion INSIDE the open tubular track causing resistance. If you can find a few sections of newer curves, try the locomotive on them and see if the problem improves. Also, add more feeder wires as necessary. Older track may require more frequent feeders because of corrosion or loose track pins.
I hope this helps!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks thanks for your help! It's definitely old track. It's O gauge tubular track. Me and my dad cleaned out the area where the pins go and we tightend down the ends of the track onto the pins. I scrubbed off all the rust off the tops and sides off the rails and it's shiny bare metal. The Lionel coating is definitely gone. I went through and I cleaned the locomotive wheels and gears, I oiled the axles and greased the gears with Lionel locomotive lube. It runs excellent in the straights and terrible and loudly in the bends. I might have to post a video here on CZcams to show it off because I am very confused. Is there any logic to polishing the rails? They are not the smoothest I only cleaned them with a scotch brite pad. And then I wiped them off with a cotton rag and 91percent alcohol. And the problem is still persistent. I can drive it fine, but I have to apply more power in the bends and less on the straights. I wish I could set it and just watch it go.
The following information would be helpful: 1) What type of track are you using (O27, "standard O" [O31] If you do not know the difference, what color are the track ties - black or brown or aluminum?)? - I assume since it's "really old" you do not have Fastrack. 2) What is the number on the locomotive? 3) How many and what type of cars are you running (if any)? As I said, SOME slowing will occur on curves because of the friction between the flanges and the track, but your description sounds like much more than that.
The locomotive is an 8612 steam engine. I run inbetween 4 and 9 cars, I have 3 box cars, a grain car, a coal car, two flatbeds, a tanker and a caboose. And obviously a locomotive and tender. I've checked and cleaned the wheels on them all. The caboose seems to have the most drag of them all, and it's only because it has electrical contacts for the light. It's not bad. The locomotive wheels seem to be what's dragging the system down. Ironically enough, if I run more than like 6 cars it provides a little bit of resistance and momentum to the train and I can make it run at about 55 percent power. The extra cars keep it from picking up too much speed. And they help push it through the turns lol. When I run just a locomotive it is hard to do that because even at like 45 percent it picks up enough speed to derail and any lower it stalls in the bends. It's definitely a weird situation. I don't mean to keep bothering you about it. I still haven't polished the outside rail. I was thinking about trying with a dremel tool polish wheel. Edit: and also the ties are black. It's Lionel tubular track. It's from like the early and mid 80s probably and it hasn't been stored well. It's been stored a few times in a basement and had to have the rust cleaned off. I did a really good job this time, and like I said even went as far to wire brush the pin holes and re-crimp them back tight.
The #8612 steamer was offered in a variety of road names in the late 1990's and early 2000's. With a can motor that requires very little voltage and a diecast shell that has a high center of gravity, the most common issue with these is falling over/derailing in curves due to excessive speed. The engine was designed for O27 and larger curves, so track diameter is not an issue. It sounds like an either an electrical issue, or somehow one of the geared drivers is binding. If the track is okay, check the center pickup rollers - are they centered properly? Are they loose so they lose contact in curves? Do you feel anything loose inside the locomotive? I would also check the drivers that they spin freely. Is a drive rod bent and binding? That's the best I can do without seeing the problem for myself. www.lionelsupport.com/media/servicedocuments/70-8616-250.pdf
Not sure what the best technique is to clean the track for my n scale trains. Any recommendations? I mean I have heard of using isopropyl alcohol to do it but I’m not sure.
Ask 100 modelers, you'll get 100 different answers. On our old HO layout we used everything from denatured alcohol to Goo Gone. Old timers used to use paint thinner on brass rails. Pretty much any solvent product will work, especially if followed by an electrical contact product such as Rail Zip.
Why don't you want to try this with a modern transformer?
The comment about modern transformers is a clip from a different episode. In that episode, I used a remote lamp dimmer to provide basic remote control to the layout. I do not recommend this with modern transformers because intentional under-powering of the incoming voltage can harm solid state circuits.