Veritas mkII Honing guide Debunked. Are your secondary bevels parallel to your first?!?
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 04. 2024
- If you're think of owning or even own this honing guide and aren't happy with it grinding square watch this video. I go over the whole experience I had from grinding horribly skewed secondary bevels on my chisels and wood working blades to getting a near perfect finish using the Veritas mk 2 honing guide. There is a lot of reason to why you get these bad results out on the internet and I go through why a lot of them are just false according to my own experience.
📌 Stay connected:
Instagram: / woodcraft.cz
Facebook: / woodcraftczeu
TikTok: / woodcraftcz
Website: www.woodcraftcz.com
Ko-Fi: ko-fi.com/woodcraftcz
#woodworking #woodwork #tools #carpentry #wood #woodworker #veritas #chisel #sharpening #honing #woodworkingtools #toolreview #workshop - Jak na to + styl
Tbink you just had ine if a bad batch. My Veritas guide is spot on and as good as I can sharpen freehand I like the consistency the guide gives every time. Full marks to Veritas for sorting it out👍
I'm glad Veritas sorted out the problems you were having with the honing guide. Sharpening tends to be a contentious topic for woodworkers. When I'm asked for the best method, I respond with "whichever method gives you the best results. Pick one and try it." I use the Lie Nielsen honing guide and have never had any problems with it. Unlike the Veritas honing guide, the LN guide clamps chisels and plane irons from the sides, as did the early Eclipse guides. My bench planes get the 25-degree primary bevel using the Tormek, then four passes over the 800 grit water stone to establish a narrow 30-degree secondary bevel, and finally two or three passes over the 10,000 grit water stone for a 35 degree tertiary bevel. I was trained by the late David Charlesworth on this method, and it works well for me.
Yes the LN guide looks amazing and your sentiment in regards to sharpening is identical to mine, what ever works for you indeed. I have a tormek with diamonds but it tends to sit on the bench most of the time as I find my diamond stones are just quicker and easier in general. Also if I’m to be honest with myself I could just use a basic stone as the level of my work probably doesn’t warrant such a refined edge 😅 Iv never explored the tertiary bevel concept. What does it aid? It took me a while to understand the secondary bevel concept as always thought it just made it sharper in some way before being told it’s just to reduce the surface area of the re sharpening grind
@@woodcraft_cz I remember asking David Charlesworth about the third bevel, but I can't remember the answer. However, I do remember the answer made sense, so I continued using it. I think it was a way to extend the sharpening before going back to the Tormek for the 25-degree primary bevel. Touching up a chisel or plane iron on the third bevel required only one or two strokes on the 10,000 grit water stone. When the edge of the third bevel approached the edge of second bevel, four or five strokes at 30 degrees on the 800-grit stone, followed by a couple of passes on the 10,000-grit stone put the chisel or plane back in service. When the second bevel was about twice as wide as it was originally, after about 20 sharpenings, it was back to the Tormek.
You just explained my problem! I couldn't figure it out and thought it was my fault. Now I know I didn't do anything wrong. Thanks!
Very happy the video was useful for you. Hopefully you get it sorted 🤞
Good to hear about the good customer service by Veritas. I have two of these as well and have not experienced this problem. One thing I do know is that even with the wide roller, pressure still matters. It's not a 100% guarantee that you will get a square edge. If you put slightly more pressure to one or the other side, you can still skew it a little (not saying that was the case with you, just that even with a 100% perfect model, squareness is not guaranteed, you need to put pressure evenly).
Yes I did notice the difference but it was very subtle when I deliberately put pressure on in hope to try and counter the skew but yes, still a point to always consider. I’m very happy now with how my jig performs, definitely a grey unit 👌😁
I use a grinder with a coarse wheel for the primary bevel. I grind as close to the edge as I can without grinding to the edge, so the angle and grit have no impact on the edge. By getting, and keeping, the secondary bevel very close to the edge, honing the edge goes very fast. I use the Veritas guide for honing plane irons because edge geometry, sharpening efficiency, and final sharpness are important to me. But now that I only use a guide for the secondary bevel, any decent guide would do. Chisels I hone by hand by hand because geometry is not critical, the edge is short, it takes less time, and chopping dovetails and tenon shoulders dulls my chisel rather quickly.
Iv tried by hand and I’m not the best I know I could practise but at the moment my current learning curves are overwhelming enough 😅 but one day I would like to refine my hand sharpening skills for sure 👌
@@woodcraft_cz I recommend that when you decide to practice dovetails you sharpen your chisels by hand. Chopping dulls edges fairly quickly (maybe less so if you have premium steel - I don't), so in a single shop session you will get lots of feedback on how the edge affects the cut, how your sharpening technique affects the edge, where the cut quality is critical and where it is not critical. Your first learning will be to FREQUENTLY check that your chisel is not dull. Chopping can quickly roll over your edge; the cut will be ugly and the back of your chisel will feel like it has a huge burr - because it does. Set things up so you can move easily between your chopping station and your sharpening station; you'll be bouncing between them every few minutes once you get going. Likely you will soon see how everything works together.