Just a tip, not really a criticism: move the camera closer to the bike so we can see what you are working on instead of the whole bike and all of you. That would be a lot more helpful to those of us that have not worked on these before. Thanks.
@@MishMashMoto Absolutely love your channel, thank you so much for being the owners of the same bike as me lol I learn so much from you. Thank you sincerely.
@johnstamos8403 Thank you for the very kind words. I wish we had a little more time to complete a few video projects, but our daily life is keeping us hopping right now.
wow, this vid is really good. thank you. got 100 miles so far on my 150l, fires up before my thumb is off the button. my last was xl25 250 40 yrs ago, so this is the sweet spot for a guffer. Then I take off on my F6B. Honda bikes are all worth the few extra hundreds. You guys are great. It's a trip getting off this after 25 miles and jumping on a 1800 cc perfect engine.
I have an XR150l that also starts with half a push of the starter button. I have never had to use the choke. I have a Sportster 1200 and a Himalayan 411, and this little 150 has been my go-to bike every day since I picked it up on June 2.
Wow! Nice video. I can’t tell you how much this is going to help a newbie like myself to do this! Appreciate all the time and energy you put into this video. Very informative.
Thanks so much for the video. I'm just about to hit my 1000km here in Canada eh 🍻. I was thinking about tackling the valve check myself, but I think it is a bit above my level. I'm very good at taking stuff apart but putting it back together not so much lol. Thanks again. I'll be watching for more videos.
great video just bought mine have 300 miles on it and looked it up said between 600-1000 miles on mine . wanna find a few nw ga 30721 area friends to go riding, first bike I've ever owned and loving it so far .
Changed the oil on mine today at 283 miles. I was amazed how dirty it was. I used the Honda oil. I will use your video at 600 miles for the valve adjustment.
Hey, Honda recommends first oil change at 650 I think. My friend who has been riding and working on bikes for years said to wait til then because the initial oil is "break in" oil and should be left in there til recommended change. Why did you do yours at 283? Just curious and thanks.
Overall an informative video. However, at 26:43, you indicate that typically valves work there way loose. You may want to revisit that statement. Valve clearance does not get loose, clearances get tight as the engine hours build! As the seat wears, the valve goes further up into the seat, thus raising the valve stem tight against the rocker arm. This is why engines that need valve adjustments are hard to re-start once they are warmed up. The valves are not seating properly.
I agree with your statement on valve seat wear. I said that because on both of our XR150L’s the valve tip to tappet clearance increased on the intake side. I assume this is due to wear of the tappet tip itself. Some engines just have there quirks, could just be ours and how we operate them, might be most of em. 🤷🏼♂️ FYI: “Extra” valve clearance will cause the valve to open late, not achieve maximum lift, and close early. All bad things for overall engine power. Even still and just like drivetrain chain slack, to loose is better then to tight.
When I was looking for a enduro (off-road and on road) bike, this was one of them I researched! I already have a 2022 Honda crf 125f and a 2007 Honda 919, so why not this one! The answer is the price of almost 3 grand and what I would be getting: carburetor, 150 cc engine, rear drum brake, And last but not least dealer setup, taxes, tags, which bring the price up to about 3600 OTD! Then I came across a chinese bike called the Lifan KPX 250 that I could get out the door , all around disc brakes, fuel injection, 2 year engine warranty for the price of 3300 from Venom motorsports of Texas!. Guess which one I went with! Valve adjustments have to be made on the Kpx also!
if you look and compare the JASO specs for oil compared to the API (American Petroleum Institute) you’ll find the API standards are much higher. Some oils are not JASO certified because the company that manufactures that oil didn’t ask to have it certified. Nevertheless, while the bike is still under warranty I’m using the Honda 10W30 oil.
Solid plan on using the correct (wet clutch safe) Honda oil. All JASO MA and JASO MA2 certified oils are wet clutch safe. Even some Honda branded oil and approved API oils may contain molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) or other friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. If you buy your oil at the local Honda motorcycle dealer, you can't go wrong, IMO.
I'm watching this video now and paused to make a comment. Your wife did her oil change...and then you comment about 10w30 oil and the sj spec for wet clutches, backing up the video, your wife used 15w40 shell rotella... typically diesel oil. Am I not seeing correctly?
That is correct, We wanted to tell everyone what Honda called for per the owners manual. We also chose to use this particular oil in our 2 bikes because we use them in a way that most people won’t. We chose a slightly thicker viscosity oil (15W40) and one that has a higher zinc content for our particular application (lots of high RPM for many hours each day). Shell Rotella T4 is “JASO MA” approved and that meets the Honda requirement. The viscosity is not specifically listed so anyone who does this is on there own and why we didn’t mention what oil we were personally using.
Hi guys! Thanks again for taking the lead in showing U.S. how to take care of these great bikes! Please let U.S. know if you come across a 12mm oil drain bolt with magnetic tip for the xr150l. Also, is there an oil screen that requires periodic cleaning? Thanks!
Your welcome, I will look into a magnetic drain bolt in the appropriate size. There is a internal centrifugal filter and oil strainer screen that need to be cleaned every 7,500 miles. We used to call these the “Spinner” and they work pretty good too. I will post a video on this when ours is due (we have over 3,500 miles on each of our 2 bikes now).
@MishMashMoto Hey MishMashMoto: After rereading your earlier response and comments regarding the "spinner" oil screen, I'm curious as to your experience regarding motorcycles and repair. It looks to me as though you definitely know your way around this bike and likely bikes in general. Regardless, I'm looking forward to the spinner video when you hit 7,500 and every other post in between. Thanks again!
@@MichaelWhite-cx4ho I have been working on bikes and engines for over 30 years. I made a living as an aircraft mechanic. Being a mechanic by trade I ended up working on cars, trucks, trailers, lawnmowers, Tractors, 4 wheelers, jet skis, and about everything else you can think of with moving parts. I don’t have any special insight on this bike but it’s similar to most older Honda singles I have worked on.
@MishMashMoto More than good enough for me! Much respect! I would put aircraft mechanic near or at the top of professions anyone or any parent could possibly hope for! AWESOME! If I could subscribe 1,000 times to show my respect and appreciation I would. In the meanwhile, I'll refer to MishMashMoto on every xr150l site I drop in on, which is many! I ordered this bike from a local Harley/Honda/Kawasaki dealer, Roc On Powersports, back in March when I first heard about it and was lucky enough to reserve one of the three allotted to them. I had just picked up a leftover 22 Himalayan from Kustom Workz of Buffalo. Anyway, the xr150l was picked up on my daughter's birthday! I have ordered an OEM seat that I'm going to have slammed so my 5'4" daughter can learn on the XR. This thing is so gentle! However, I may want to swap out the front brake pads for something with LESS stopping power as this thing stops on a dime! I actually prefer the rear drum as it has less bite. Regardless, I have been following your posts since you started. I hadn't received mine yet, and the fact that you went out the next day AND PURCHASED A SECOND ONE put my mind at ease about what to expect. It looks as though your purchases have turned out to be a great move in terms of you and your wife spending time together. I think this bike and smaller bikes like the xr150l have a great market in the U.S., like elsewhere, of people looking for fun, reliable, simple, high mpg, AFFORDABLE tools to do whatever they want with them. I hope you and your wife become the go-to CZcams gurus on how to maintain them! Again, MUCH RESPECT AND THANKS!
Great video, thank you. The cleaning of the bike is the most time consuming part I am finding, especially if it is run in the dirt a lot. Have you found any oil consumption on your bikes with the highway riding you have done? The majority of my riding, now at 1,000 miles has been dirt, but I did a 200 mile ride mostly road the other day so I was pretty wide open most of the time. I smelled a bit of burnt oil in the exhaust but didn’t see any measurable amount. I am running the Honda recommended oil.
Most XR150L's will burn some oil due to a poor breather tube design. Our 2 bikes each burn/use about 8 oz of oil every 2,500 miles. There are a few breather tube modification videos on CZcams (not our channel) that will fix this oil consumption problem. It's not a problem with the engine (just too short of a breather tube). Basically, the oil mist gets pumped into the airbox, sucked in through the carburetor, and burned.
Just the aluminum crush washer. That’s the “gasket” if you will. They can normally be reused until they are to deformed to seal and/or work hardened from compression. Basically, just make sure it doesn’t leak after tightening and replace it if it does.
We agree! Our two bikes have used a little oil during the break in process. Oil consumption has finally stabilized but it took 3,000 miles before they quit using oil. Each bike used about 24 ounces over 3,000 miles.
Just want to say that you are an excellent communicator! Thanks for being so thorough. This is your first video that I have seen. Can you please tell me what you think of this bike?
I love it for what it is. It’s a small cc bike that will do most anything you ask of it. Excellent fuel economy and it’s a fantastic trail and around town bike. It is not a great hiway bike and no one should be on the interstate with this bike. It’s also not made for really big jumps like a MX bike is.
Great information. I found the Philippines factory service manual in English online seems identical. Cant find the USA manual other than helm 50$ plus shipping
Hi mishmash. Thanks for your content. They want $260 to check/adjust valve clearance at the dealer so I will be doing this soon. Does this model have a pressurized lubrication system? I’ve never seen one without an oil filter. Thanks.
Yes it is a pressure type oil system. It’s old 70’s and 80’s Honda technology (and it’s wonderful:-). Keep up with your scheduled oil changes and clean the internal oil screen every 7,500 miles and your good to go. Sure a oil filter gets some smaller particles filtered but this has worked great for about 50 years and counting on Hondas.
@@MishMashMoto For the oil screen, do we take off the engine cover and find the screen just above the drain hole/plug? I was confused as to why I couldn't find a filter for this bike. Also, my XR150L is my first ever bike.
@@justinlugo7535 I have not cleaned the oil screen yet but on old Hondas of similar design it’s under the right side case. I am assuming it’s just a centrifugal sludge trap like back in the 70’s/80’s/90’s
How often are we supposed to change the oil on these bikes? Mine didn't come with a manual and the lady I bought it from used to have the dealer do all the maintenance it has 600 miles on it and it was just changed she said.
I’m not near my owners manual right now but I believe the first oil change was at 600 miles and then every 2,500 miles after that is what it recommended. FYI: These bikes can use a little oil so check it often (every refueling or so) Honda also recommends the use of JASO approved 10w30 oil also.
Hello , did you replace the valve cover gasket with a new one ??? I have to do the same to valves on my XR150 and I need to know if I need to buy a new gasket !! thanks ...
We are still reusing the OEM valve cover gasket that our bikes came with. It can be reused if it's in good condition. It's always a good idea to have one on hand just in case it gets damaged during removal, though (sometimes they can be stuck and tear if you're not careful).
New to this bike, I didn't see where it's recommended to check the valve lash at 600 miles. Is it in the owners manual? Thanks for the videos on this bike. I just got mine and trying to learn as much as I can about it. Thank you.
Its a good idea and it says in the workshop manual to check the 4 head bolt tensions up to 24 ft/lb when doing the valve clearances,the L H rear one usually comes up a bit the first time then they are usually okay.
❤hola MMM..QUERIA PREGUNTARTE, si tenias problemas para q arrancara en frio...cuando recien la tenias.. y lo otro si tenia un ruido , un" klac ", en la direccion al pasar por un terreno irregular, y ademas qvtipo de aceite estas usando ? Saludos desde Santiago de Chile
Hey MishMash, Eggs here again, I just did the 600 mile service. I had a question for you when you have time. On my exhaust valve, I had to push the feeler gauge in there and there was more than a bit of drag, with some resistance, however my intake went in well with slight drag. Shall I loosen it up or wait until 2500 miles? I'm still getting a feel for this procedure. Everything else went well and I'm enjoying the Shell Rotella T4. I'd like to thank you in advance for your time and efforts, Respectfully, -Eggs
If it went in with only slight hand pressure, then you're good. I like mine to be "snug" at the desired thickness. Most books will tell you if the correct size gauge goes in, but a .001" thicker gauge won't, then it's "correct." In theory, the valve and valve seat will wear over time, and the clearance will get tighter. In my experience on these Honda's, the adjustment screw that contacts the valve tip will actually wear first and actually increases the clearance some. To summarize, you should be good unless it took enough pressure to overcome the valve spring to get the thickness gauge to go in. Also, if you only checked the clearance and didn't adjust it, that's where Sundiro/Honda originally set it. Did you do the 115 main jet? You will really like it in the hot summer heat (keeps your engine much cooler, better starting, better midrange power). The downside is the fuel economy, but it is well worth the tradeoff, IMO.
@@MishMashMoto Thank you for your reply. I genuinely appreciate it. I'm happy that all went well with my 600 mile service interval. I get to overthinking about my maintenance because I am meticulous. I'm happy to report I in fact did not over tighten the valve cover bolts(and threaded every bolt back by hand first). I put on some of the anti-seize compound that I have in a jar that is rated for spark plugs etc (loctite 38650). As for the jetting, I think I may go ahead and try out that 115. It's fixing to get really hot down here in the metroplex. I need all the help I can get, as I am a year round rider. I commute rain or shine sans ice/snow. I am curious if I should keep the 38 in there or go with the 35. I saw on your ADVRider post/replies that you felt 115/35 is the best configuration, even more so in our neck of the woods. Did y'all wind up keeping OEM tires on your bikes? I think when it is time to replace the tires down the line I want to replace them with the stock tires(CST; Cheng Shin Tires). I found that you can buy them on Partzilla.com. When I traded my last bike for this grand XR150L(only 452 miles on it) it came with the spark arrestor out, a mod that is ubiquitous it seems. I think I may go ahead and order one, although I don't find it to be obnoxious without it. I'm going to ride for a few more months and see what I think about it longer term before dropping any money into the bike that isn't a need to have. -Eggs
@@M4ttM4n20 We kept our CST tires on for over 6,000 miles. I didn’t have a problem with them except in mud and deep sand. Go with the 35 pilot unless you want to pull out the plug covering the “single D” idle fuel adjustment “screw”. It can probably be adjusted down with the 38 pilot in the DFW area. If you go up to a high elevation though you may want the 35 in there. I switched to the PZ30 carburetor for the extra power. I am a till working on getting those video’s completed with all the pro and conn on that carb. I ride 4 seasons myself (I was just busy with other things this past year). IMO the spark arrestor doesn’t really make any difference at all (other than legal compliance and actually catching a spark) with the stock carb. On the PZ30 it does make a difference. If you plan on doing some carburetor upgrades at some point, consider that before you buy a replacement and/or getting an aftermarket exhaust to compliment the new carburetor.
Yes, we have used Shell Rotella T4 (in 15/40 specifically) for our personal riding style with these bikes (do this at your own risk). We wanted an oil that was readily available everywhere and to run a slightly heavier oil since we run at extended high RPM for several hours a day most of the time. There were several other factors involved in this decision/choice but that’s what we settled on for these bikes and the role they serve for us right now. I did not address our oil choice for many reasons also and do not recommend this for most people and especially not if they are in the colder climates! We have also Been thinking about finally doing some mods to em. I am sure we will put entirely to much $ into them if we do but they are just really fun bikes to ride IMO. We kinda want to turn them into little trail bashing monsters with license plates and blinkers. 😎
@@MishMashMoto looking forward to see your mods. I got a xr 190 62k kilometer, want to change piston ring. Thank you for explaining why you choose the oil change
I did my service recently andy exhaust valve lash was way outta spec. I set it and it seems little too much now and is crazy loud with valve tick. I think my bike is gaslighting me and I'm going to crack it open again just check. Anyone else set to the recommended clearances and experience the same?
Sounds like you should recheck it. I think you may have got the wrong clearance amount, or the engine wasn't at TDC when you set it. Recheck your clearance amount carefully in thousandths of an inch or mm (whichever your using).
I appreciate your reply and I comment back to admit to being a complete bonehead. The feeler gauge I was using belonged to my grandfather and probably had not been used in at least 20 years. The .005 was stuck to the .006 AND the .007. I knew something wasn't right, but I did it anyway. It's fixed now and running the way it should. It's been said and I'll say it again, thank you for your content.
@H1016 I'm glad you got it all sorted out! That's an easy thing to do when they are oily also. I actually measure my thickness gauges with a digital caliler if I ever have to stack feelers together for a desired thickness for that very reason. Some hydraulic lifter "dry clearances" can be quite large. Congrats again on getting it done yourself! Applause 👏 😁
I'm sorry... I watched later on, and you used it on the spark plug. Can you use it on the breather hose? Mine was hard taking off!! Or even the gas lines too?
I never have used it for that purpose before. Mine are hard to get off each time also. It would work well to ease the hoses off I think but contamination into the fuel and oil system is my concern. I wouldn’t do it. I will try a little 2 stroke oil next time I have mine off.
@MishMashMoto thank you very much! Could you tell me or show a video of what you would do if you striped one of the head bolts. The reason why I'm asking is because i think i did 😢 i was very careful, and it still happened. I've seen plastic harder to strip!!! I have the extra 4 years of warranty. Should i call the dealership? And see if they can fix it?
I check my oil before every ride and top it off as needed. On longer trips I check it at every refuel stop also. These bikes do use a little oil (about 8oz between oil changes). I think it's mainly due to poor crankcase venting in the breather tubes design.
We installed a 115 main jet but that doesn’t really change anything with starts and they are stock other then that. We don’t have a problem with them starting up. A little finicky when really cold but the choke fixes that.
Do you mean oil leaking outside the engine (between the Valve cover and cylinder head) or oil leaking inside/outside the engine between the cylinder and head? The first is normally just a valve cover gasket replacement. The second is normally a blown head gasket. If that wasn't your question please try to be more specific.
As a semi truck driver who uses plugged earbuds, I think the audio definitely needs like 30-40% increase. The engine in the rig is loud though, so that’s a bit of an overcompensation haha
Because of how we personally ride our bikes (it’s a little different then how most people will operate theirs). Oil is a complicated topic but we chose that specific brand, type, and weight of oil for our specific needs at that time.
Agreed, the manual I had access to didn’t specify hot or cold so I didn’t state what I couldn’t be confident was correct. I do agree it was probably meant to be done cold though.
Just a tip, not really a criticism: move the camera closer to the bike so we can see what you are working on instead of the whole bike and all of you. That would be a lot more helpful to those of us that have not worked on these before. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback (we take constructive criticism very well and want to put out better videos so keep ‘em coming).
@@MishMashMoto Absolutely love your channel, thank you so much for being the owners of the same bike as me lol I learn so much from you. Thank you sincerely.
@johnstamos8403 Thank you for the very kind words. I wish we had a little more time to complete a few video projects, but our daily life is keeping us hopping right now.
Just wanted to thank you for the detailed instructions for the 600 mile service. Successful with the help of your video. Keep it up!
I'm glad it helped you out some. 👍🏼
wow, this vid is really good. thank you. got 100 miles so far on my 150l, fires up before my thumb is off the button. my last was xl25 250 40 yrs ago, so this is the sweet spot for a guffer. Then I take off on my F6B. Honda bikes are all worth the few extra hundreds. You guys are great. It's a trip getting off this after 25 miles and jumping on a 1800 cc perfect engine.
I have an XR150l that also starts with half a push of the starter button. I have never had to use the choke. I have a Sportster 1200 and a Himalayan 411, and this little 150 has been my go-to bike every day since I picked it up on June 2.
Wow! Nice video. I can’t tell you how much this is going to help a newbie like myself to do this! Appreciate all the time and energy you put into this video. Very informative.
Thanks so much for the video. I'm just about to hit my 1000km here in Canada eh 🍻. I was thinking about tackling the valve check myself, but I think it is a bit above my level. I'm very good at taking stuff apart but putting it back together not so much lol. Thanks again. I'll be watching for more videos.
We might be considering one of these, thank you for the info. I’ll reference back to this if we end up with one.
I put a deposit down on a black one, hoping to hear back from the dealer soonish.
I appreciate the effort in this video, thank you.
Thank you and your welcome.
I always drop more stuff when someone's watching over my shoulder too.
Thank you kindly for this information hope y’all had a great trip
We did have a great trip and looking forward to many more.
great video just bought mine have 300 miles on it and looked it up said between 600-1000 miles on mine . wanna find a few nw ga 30721 area friends to go riding, first bike I've ever owned and loving it so far .
Im in trion outside summerville and chattanooga. I got mine right before christmas..
Great video, thanks.
Changed the oil on mine today at 283 miles. I was amazed how dirty it was. I used the Honda oil.
I will use your video at 600 miles for the valve adjustment.
Hey, Honda recommends first oil change at 650 I think. My friend who has been riding and working on bikes for years said to wait til then because the initial oil is "break in" oil and should be left in there til recommended change. Why did you do yours at 283? Just curious and thanks.
Y@@1122redbird
Yes I did.
Overall an informative video. However, at 26:43, you indicate that typically valves work there way loose. You may want to revisit that statement. Valve clearance does not get loose, clearances get tight as the engine hours build! As the seat wears, the valve goes further up into the seat, thus raising the valve stem tight against the rocker arm. This is why engines that need valve adjustments are hard to re-start once they are warmed up. The valves are not seating properly.
I agree with your statement on valve seat wear. I said that because on both of our XR150L’s the valve tip to tappet clearance increased on the intake side. I assume this is due to wear of the tappet tip itself. Some engines just have there quirks, could just be ours and how we operate them, might be most of em. 🤷🏼♂️
FYI: “Extra” valve clearance will cause the valve to open late, not achieve maximum lift, and close early. All bad things for overall engine power. Even still and just like drivetrain chain slack, to loose is better then to tight.
nice one mam 👍👍
Thanks for the class! very helpful.
Your very welcome! Glad you found it useful.
Thank you
When I was looking for a enduro (off-road and on road) bike, this was one of them I researched! I already have a 2022 Honda crf 125f and a 2007 Honda 919, so why not this one! The answer is the price of almost 3 grand and what I would be getting: carburetor, 150 cc engine, rear drum brake, And last but not least dealer setup, taxes, tags, which bring the price up to about 3600 OTD! Then I came across a chinese bike called the Lifan KPX 250 that I could get out the door , all around disc brakes, fuel injection, 2 year engine warranty for the price of 3300 from Venom motorsports of Texas!. Guess which one I went with! Valve adjustments have to be made on the Kpx also!
Kool, keep us posted about that bike. Think that’s the one I recently saw on MotoCheez’s website.
if you look and compare the JASO specs for oil compared to the API (American Petroleum Institute) you’ll find the API standards are much higher. Some oils are not JASO certified because the company that manufactures that oil didn’t ask to have it certified. Nevertheless, while the bike is still under warranty I’m using the Honda 10W30 oil.
Solid plan on using the correct (wet clutch safe) Honda oil. All JASO MA and JASO MA2 certified oils are wet clutch safe. Even some Honda branded oil and approved API oils may contain molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) or other friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. If you buy your oil at the local Honda motorcycle dealer, you can't go wrong, IMO.
I'm watching this video now and paused to make a comment. Your wife did her oil change...and then you comment about 10w30 oil and the sj spec for wet clutches, backing up the video, your wife used 15w40 shell rotella... typically diesel oil. Am I not seeing correctly?
That is correct, We wanted to tell everyone what Honda called for per the owners manual. We also chose to use this particular oil in our 2 bikes because we use them in a way that most people won’t. We chose a slightly thicker viscosity oil (15W40) and one that has a higher zinc content for our particular application (lots of high RPM for many hours each day). Shell Rotella T4 is “JASO MA” approved and that meets the Honda requirement. The viscosity is not specifically listed so anyone who does this is on there own and why we didn’t mention what oil we were personally using.
Hi guys! Thanks again for taking the lead in showing U.S. how to take care of these great bikes! Please let U.S. know if you come across a 12mm oil drain bolt with magnetic tip for the xr150l. Also, is there an oil screen that requires periodic cleaning? Thanks!
Your welcome, I will look into a magnetic drain bolt in the appropriate size. There is a internal centrifugal filter and oil strainer screen that need to be cleaned every 7,500 miles. We used to call these the “Spinner” and they work pretty good too. I will post a video on this when ours is due (we have over 3,500 miles on each of our 2 bikes now).
@MishMashMoto Hey MishMashMoto: After rereading your earlier response and comments regarding the "spinner" oil screen, I'm curious as to your experience regarding motorcycles and repair. It looks to me as though you definitely know your way around this bike and likely bikes in general. Regardless, I'm looking forward to the spinner video when you hit 7,500 and every other post in between. Thanks again!
@@MichaelWhite-cx4ho I have been working on bikes and engines for over 30 years. I made a living as an aircraft mechanic. Being a mechanic by trade I ended up working on cars, trucks, trailers, lawnmowers, Tractors, 4 wheelers, jet skis, and about everything else you can think of with moving parts. I don’t have any special insight on this bike but it’s similar to most older Honda singles I have worked on.
@MishMashMoto More than good enough for me! Much respect! I would put aircraft mechanic near or at the top of professions anyone or any parent could possibly hope for! AWESOME! If I could subscribe 1,000 times to show my respect and appreciation I would. In the meanwhile, I'll refer to MishMashMoto on every xr150l site I drop in on, which is many! I ordered this bike from a local Harley/Honda/Kawasaki dealer, Roc On Powersports, back in March when I first heard about it and was lucky enough to reserve one of the three allotted to them. I had just picked up a leftover 22 Himalayan from Kustom Workz of Buffalo. Anyway, the xr150l was picked up on my daughter's birthday! I have ordered an OEM seat that I'm going to have slammed so my 5'4" daughter can learn on the XR. This thing is so gentle! However, I may want to swap out the front brake pads for something with LESS stopping power as this thing stops on a dime! I actually prefer the rear drum as it has less bite. Regardless, I have been following your posts since you started. I hadn't received mine yet, and the fact that you went out the next day AND PURCHASED A SECOND ONE put my mind at ease about what to expect. It looks as though your purchases have turned out to be a great move in terms of you and your wife spending time together. I think this bike and smaller bikes like the xr150l have a great market in the U.S., like elsewhere, of people looking for fun, reliable, simple, high mpg, AFFORDABLE tools to do whatever they want with them. I hope you and your wife become the go-to CZcams gurus on how to maintain them! Again, MUCH RESPECT AND THANKS!
Great video, thank you. The cleaning of the bike is the most time consuming part I am finding, especially if it is run in the dirt a lot. Have you found any oil consumption on your bikes with the highway riding you have done? The majority of my riding, now at 1,000 miles has been dirt, but I did a 200 mile ride mostly road the other day so I was pretty wide open most of the time. I smelled a bit of burnt oil in the exhaust but didn’t see any measurable amount. I am running the Honda recommended oil.
Most XR150L's will burn some oil due to a poor breather tube design. Our 2 bikes each burn/use about 8 oz of oil every 2,500 miles. There are a few breather tube modification videos on CZcams (not our channel) that will fix this oil consumption problem. It's not a problem with the engine (just too short of a breather tube). Basically, the oil mist gets pumped into the airbox, sucked in through the carburetor, and burned.
Thank you for the video! noticed some side play on the vavle arm, is that normal? thank you for all the xr150l videos!
I Don’t have the specs on the rocker arm side clearance. Maybe someone else does and can post a reply here.
Is there a gasket for the oil plug and if so does it need to be changed? Thanks for the video!
Just the aluminum crush washer. That’s the “gasket” if you will. They can normally be reused until they are to deformed to seal and/or work hardened from compression. Basically, just make sure it doesn’t leak after tightening and replace it if it does.
Always top oil on this motor !! and check daily
We agree! Our two bikes have used a little oil during the break in process. Oil consumption has finally stabilized but it took 3,000 miles before they quit using oil. Each bike used about 24 ounces over 3,000 miles.
@@MishMashMoto truth , it will always consume oil
I once forgot to change the oil. It cost me cylinder block replacement. Still, it runs good to this day, 50k plus Kms.
What kind of oil do u recommend?
@@savooonnah776 any oil in spec, just check oil level , replace 2-3k km
Just want to say that you are an excellent communicator! Thanks for being so thorough. This is your first video that I have seen. Can you please tell me what you think of this bike?
I love it for what it is. It’s a small cc bike that will do most anything you ask of it. Excellent fuel economy and it’s a fantastic trail and around town bike. It is not a great hiway bike and no one should be on the interstate with this bike. It’s also not made for really big jumps like a MX bike is.
@@MishMashMoto thank you for replying.
Anyone else get hosed for a $700 freight/destination/set up charge or do I still have ‘sucker’ stamped on my forehead?
If you got out under $4,000 then you did better then a lot of people.
Same.....
Freight and setup charges will depend on your location. Mine was about $500 combined in CT. $4k OTD
$4,080 OTD with title n license here in Illinois. Sucks
@@Smith.Wesson.432UC Congratulations on getting one! Now forget what it cost ya’ and go enjoy it!
Great information. I found the Philippines factory service manual in English online seems identical. Cant find the USA manual other than helm 50$ plus shipping
Thanks, We have been calling Honda for specs and torque values.
Hi mishmash. Thanks for your content. They want $260 to check/adjust valve clearance at the dealer so I will be doing this soon. Does this model have a pressurized lubrication system? I’ve never seen one without an oil filter. Thanks.
Yes it is a pressure type oil system. It’s old 70’s and 80’s Honda technology (and it’s wonderful:-). Keep up with your scheduled oil changes and clean the internal oil screen every 7,500 miles and your good to go. Sure a oil filter gets some smaller particles filtered but this has worked great for about 50 years and counting on Hondas.
@@MishMashMoto For the oil screen, do we take off the engine cover and find the screen just above the drain hole/plug? I was confused as to why I couldn't find a filter for this bike. Also, my XR150L is my first ever bike.
@@justinlugo7535 I have not cleaned the oil screen yet but on old Hondas of similar design it’s under the right side case. I am assuming it’s just a centrifugal sludge trap like back in the 70’s/80’s/90’s
How often are we supposed to change the oil on these bikes? Mine didn't come with a manual and the lady I bought it from used to have the dealer do all the maintenance it has 600 miles on it and it was just changed she said.
I’m not near my owners manual right now but I believe the first oil change was at 600 miles and then every 2,500 miles after that is what it recommended. FYI: These bikes can use a little oil so check it often (every refueling or so) Honda also recommends the use of JASO approved 10w30 oil also.
@@MishMashMoto thank you for the quick response
Hello , did you replace the valve cover gasket with a new one ??? I have to do the same to valves on my XR150 and I need to know if I need to buy a new gasket !! thanks ...
We are still reusing the OEM valve cover gasket that our bikes came with. It can be reused if it's in good condition. It's always a good idea to have one on hand just in case it gets damaged during removal, though (sometimes they can be stuck and tear if you're not careful).
very nice and informative video, one thing, the sound could be better
Thank you for your kindness and positive input on the audio quality.
New to this bike, I didn't see where it's recommended to check the valve lash at 600 miles. Is it in the owners manual? Thanks for the videos on this bike. I just got mine and trying to learn as much as I can about it. Thank you.
The owners manual does list an inspection at 600 miles. It’s super easy and doesn’t take very long to do.
Its a good idea and it says in the workshop manual to check the 4 head bolt tensions up to 24 ft/lb when doing the valve clearances,the L H rear one usually comes up a bit the first time then they are usually okay.
@@user-kv9rt4dk7d I am a huge fan of rechecking head bolt torque! I just didn’t have the specs for them yet. This is excellent advice everyone.
❤hola MMM..QUERIA PREGUNTARTE, si tenias problemas para q arrancara en frio...cuando recien la tenias.. y lo otro si tenia un ruido , un" klac ", en la direccion al pasar por un terreno irregular, y ademas qvtipo de aceite estas usando ? Saludos desde Santiago de Chile
I'm sorry, I can't translate this
Is it good to just use the feeler gauge to set the spark plug gap?
That will work also.
Hey MishMash,
Eggs here again,
I just did the 600 mile service. I had a question for you when you have time. On my exhaust valve, I had to push the feeler gauge in there and there was more than a bit of drag, with some resistance, however my intake went in well with slight drag. Shall I loosen it up or wait until 2500 miles? I'm still getting a feel for this procedure. Everything else went well and I'm enjoying the Shell Rotella T4.
I'd like to thank you in advance for your time and efforts,
Respectfully,
-Eggs
If it went in with only slight hand pressure, then you're good. I like mine to be "snug" at the desired thickness. Most books will tell you if the correct size gauge goes in, but a .001" thicker gauge won't, then it's "correct." In theory, the valve and valve seat will wear over time, and the clearance will get tighter. In my experience on these Honda's, the adjustment screw that contacts the valve tip will actually wear first and actually increases the clearance some. To summarize, you should be good unless it took enough pressure to overcome the valve spring to get the thickness gauge to go in. Also, if you only checked the clearance and didn't adjust it, that's where Sundiro/Honda originally set it. Did you do the 115 main jet? You will really like it in the hot summer heat (keeps your engine much cooler, better starting, better midrange power). The downside is the fuel economy, but it is well worth the tradeoff, IMO.
@@MishMashMoto Thank you for your reply. I genuinely appreciate it. I'm happy that all went well with my 600 mile service interval. I get to overthinking about my maintenance because I am meticulous. I'm happy to report I in fact did not over tighten the valve cover bolts(and threaded every bolt back by hand first). I put on some of the anti-seize compound that I have in a jar that is rated for spark plugs etc (loctite 38650). As for the jetting, I think I may go ahead and try out that 115. It's fixing to get really hot down here in the metroplex. I need all the help I can get, as I am a year round rider. I commute rain or shine sans ice/snow. I am curious if I should keep the 38 in there or go with the 35. I saw on your ADVRider post/replies that you felt 115/35 is the best configuration, even more so in our neck of the woods. Did y'all wind up keeping OEM tires on your bikes? I think when it is time to replace the tires down the line I want to replace them with the stock tires(CST; Cheng Shin Tires). I found that you can buy them on Partzilla.com. When I traded my last bike for this grand XR150L(only 452 miles on it) it came with the spark arrestor out, a mod that is ubiquitous it seems. I think I may go ahead and order one, although I don't find it to be obnoxious without it. I'm going to ride for a few more months and see what I think about it longer term before dropping any money into the bike that isn't a need to have.
-Eggs
@@M4ttM4n20 We kept our CST tires on for over 6,000 miles. I didn’t have a problem with them except in mud and deep sand. Go with the 35 pilot unless you want to pull out the plug covering the “single D” idle fuel adjustment “screw”. It can probably be adjusted down with the 38 pilot in the DFW area. If you go up to a high elevation though you may want the 35 in there. I switched to the PZ30 carburetor for the extra power. I am a till working on getting those video’s completed with all the pro and conn on that carb. I ride 4 seasons myself (I was just busy with other things this past year). IMO the spark arrestor doesn’t really make any difference at all (other than legal compliance and actually catching a spark) with the stock carb. On the PZ30 it does make a difference. If you plan on doing some carburetor upgrades at some point, consider that before you buy a replacement and/or getting an aftermarket exhaust to compliment the new carburetor.
@MishMashMash tick tick sound while riding. pls suggest
Probably just valve train noise. Have you checked/adjusted your valves yet? How many miles on your bike?
There used to be a timing chain adjustment during the first service. Is this no longer necessary? Thx
Looks like this bike has an automatic timing chain tensioner. Nothing about it in the owners manual either.
@@MishMashMoto Thank you.
Nice bike. Nice to see upgrade xr 190l. Quick question service book says 10-30. U using oil for diesel engine?
Yes, we have used Shell Rotella T4 (in 15/40 specifically) for our personal riding style with these bikes (do this at your own risk). We wanted an oil that was readily available everywhere and to run a slightly heavier oil since we run at extended high RPM for several hours a day most of the time. There were several other factors involved in this decision/choice but that’s what we settled on for these bikes and the role they serve for us right now. I did not address our oil choice for many reasons also and do not recommend this for most people and especially not if they are in the colder climates!
We have also Been thinking about finally doing some mods to em. I am sure we will put entirely to much $ into them if we do but they are just really fun bikes to ride IMO. We kinda want to turn them into little trail bashing monsters with license plates and blinkers. 😎
@@MishMashMoto looking forward to see your mods. I got a xr 190 62k kilometer, want to change piston ring. Thank you for explaining why you choose the oil change
I did my service recently andy exhaust valve lash was way outta spec. I set it and it seems little too much now and is crazy loud with valve tick. I think my bike is gaslighting me and I'm going to crack it open again just check. Anyone else set to the recommended clearances and experience the same?
Sounds like you should recheck it. I think you may have got the wrong clearance amount, or the engine wasn't at TDC when you set it. Recheck your clearance amount carefully in thousandths of an inch or mm (whichever your using).
I appreciate your reply and I comment back to admit to being a complete bonehead. The feeler gauge I was using belonged to my grandfather and probably had not been used in at least 20 years. The .005 was stuck to the .006 AND the .007. I knew something wasn't right, but I did it anyway. It's fixed now and running the way it should. It's been said and I'll say it again, thank you for your content.
@H1016 I'm glad you got it all sorted out! That's an easy thing to do when they are oily also. I actually measure my thickness gauges with a digital caliler if I ever have to stack feelers together for a desired thickness for that very reason. Some hydraulic lifter "dry clearances" can be quite large. Congrats again on getting it done yourself! Applause 👏 😁
I have a question. Whats the fuel consumption like when going 60mph?
You get about 85mpg in stock form going 50-55
@@MishMashMoto not bad
22 lbf ft is the oil drain plug torque spec per the 2023 FSM.
That’s what we were told also but we hate to post data we haven’t personally been able to verify.
Torqued by "tantya meter" all these years. Never had a problem breaking the bolts or of it coming loose.
@@MishMashMoto Yes,its 22 ft/lb but i always do mine to 20 ft/lb because its in alloy and its tight at that and only needs to stay in tight.
When did you use the Permatex anti-seize lubricant?
I'm sorry... I watched later on, and you used it on the spark plug. Can you use it on the breather hose? Mine was hard taking off!! Or even the gas lines too?
I never have used it for that purpose before. Mine are hard to get off each time also. It would work well to ease the hoses off I think but contamination into the fuel and oil system is my concern. I wouldn’t do it. I will try a little 2 stroke oil next time I have mine off.
@MishMashMoto thank you very much! Could you tell me or show a video of what you would do if you striped one of the head bolts. The reason why I'm asking is because i think i did 😢 i was very careful, and it still happened. I've seen plastic harder to strip!!! I have the extra 4 years of warranty. Should i call the dealership? And see if they can fix it?
How much oil have you lost? Measure the oil out on your next oil change.
I check my oil before every ride and top it off as needed. On longer trips I check it at every refuel stop also. These bikes do use a little oil (about 8oz between oil changes). I think it's mainly due to poor crankcase venting in the breather tubes design.
correction the drain plug is 12mm ..
Yep, it’s a 12mm socket size. Good catch. Oops
did you ever do anything to carb? to start better?
We installed a 115 main jet but that doesn’t really change anything with starts and they are stock other then that. We don’t have a problem with them starting up. A little finicky when really cold but the choke fixes that.
@@MishMashMoto thanks for respond !!!
Has anyone found the torque specs for the wheel spokes?
Not me
Definitely do another maintenance video at the next recommended mileage, some better angles of the area youre working with would be perfect🫡
Will do
Service manual says idle speed (when warmed up) is 1400 +-100. rpm.
Thank you for the info! Where did you get your manual?
How about leaking oil in head cylinder
Do you mean oil leaking outside the engine (between the Valve cover and cylinder head) or oil leaking inside/outside the engine between the cylinder and head? The first is normally just a valve cover gasket replacement. The second is normally a blown head gasket. If that wasn't your question please try to be more specific.
Do these get the advertised 124mpg?
We get about 85 fully loaded and 95/100 lightly loaded.
@@MishMashMoto okay, so close. I’m really considering getting one of these. Thank you for your reply!
9 litre - 400-420km on max economic driving
@@nirocku I ride mine all out always and get about 350-380 km to R
Its can reach 480 kms on a full tank of gas.
Looks just like the same engine in the cb 125e
Surprised it didn’t have a oil filter
Think it has the old style Honda “spinner” (centrifugal sludge trap). We will probably do a video on it one day.
No oil filter?
No external spin on filter. It does have an internal centrifugal “sludge trap” you clean every 7,500 miles like the old Honda singles had.
is there no spinner or filter for the engine?
There is a spinner and a screen but you don't have to check either of those until 7,500 miles. There is no removable oil filter.
Класний байк, в мене теж є такий 2022 року випуску. Привіт з України!
The audio is very low
Thank you, we are working on better audio for our future videos.
I thought the audio was great and I having hearing loss in both ears.
As a semi truck driver who uses plugged earbuds, I think the audio definitely needs like 30-40% increase. The engine in the rig is loud though, so that’s a bit of an overcompensation haha
@@scubarubanzaii plugged earbuds🤣🤣 loud semi😂 I can’t hear it either with my hearing aids turned off lol.
Turn on the closed captions
Owners manuel states 10 w 30 oil why are you using 15 w 40..?
Because of how we personally ride our bikes (it’s a little different then how most people will operate theirs). Oil is a complicated topic but we chose that specific brand, type, and weight of oil for our specific needs at that time.
I was just thinking man I hope someone does the oil change soon
Glad we could help.
You dont mention valve check to be done on stone cold motor..
Agreed, the manual I had access to didn’t specify hot or cold so I didn’t state what I couldn’t be confident was correct. I do agree it was probably meant to be done cold though.
The service manual is under the seat.
That’s just the owners manual, it doesn’t have the clearance specs or torque values in it.
If I knew I would not get in trouble for copyright I could have emailed you the service manual with all torque settings and procedures.
Just email it.
You need a mic..
Yep
Can't hardly hear a thing. What?
Yeah, our early audio/video gear wasn’t very good. We are trying to get some better gear soon but it’s expensive.
Camera too far away
jesus what a rookie
Go easy on me, it was my first time 🤣