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My train wont puff smoke! How to replace a pellet type smoke element on a postwar Lionel.
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- I love the Lionels with the smoke units. It adds that little bit of extra detail that makes them so much fun to watch. So when it stops working and you know put fluid or pellets in it. What do you do? Get a new one of course. And they are EASY to swap out.
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Great video, I’m going to repair my smoke unit instead of converting to liquid because of this video. Thank you!
I was sure glad to see those scissors come out because I'd just finished installing one - trimming a tiny bit with scissors and had no idea at all what I was doing. Your vids are easy to follow and I appreciate that.
Thanks for watching and I am glad to hear you find the videos helpful and easy to follow. I am really trying to show how simple the Lionels are to repair with very basic tools and (in some cases) a bit of patience.
My postwar engines I just put a few drops of liquid smoke fluid in to them and they smoke fine .Also I could use the pellets also.But I've used the liquid smoke fluid for decades with no problems.No fires ,nice smoke ,etc.
I like your videos warren they are very helpfull . I was wondering if you made a video on how to remove a lionel 221 shell and how to lube . Also wondering if you Have a video on shell removel and lube on a lionel 265E Vanderbilt .
Sorry for the delay in response. I have a series of videos where I am resurrecting a 221. In the first part of that video I show how to remove the shell. I have not done a straight forward general maintenance video yet for the 221. I will definitely add that to the list.
As for the 265E I do not have anything for that loco. Thanks for watching!
I've replaced vintage smoke units with both the resistor type ones as well as the original pellet type ones as you have explained above. From what I understand, when replacing with the pellet types you need to add at least 6-15 drops of smoke fluid to "wet" the wadding, and then it will smoke the way yours does. What I have noticed is that if you don't add fluid or pellets to these types of smoke units they usually don't burn out like a resister type. I personally prefer these type, as the output is very close to the original, and you can use either pellets or smoke fluid. Also, the smoke unit piston may be adjusted via bending the lever operated by the wheels on the loco to provide maximum air flow, providing the most smoke. When these are tuned up correctly, the smoke output will smoke up the whole room. Very good and informing video- A++
Thanks for watching and sharing that info! I appreciate that. I have a few resistor types, too. I also prefer the reproductions of the original style.
Hi Warren - great videos - I've learned a lot from watching! I recently bought a 681 from evil bay. I snagged it for a fantastic price, but the smoke unit is shot. I like the idea of repairing it with what you've shown here, because it has the option of pellets or liquid. I can only find conversion kits that are for liquid only. Can you or someone else provide a link or description for a kit like you've shown that will work with my 681? Thanks in advance.
Hey Dave. Thanks for watching. The kit that I used here is really just the replacement heater that melts the pellets. All of these that I have come across are the exact same, so this one would work in your 681. Just remove the old heater element swap in the new and your good to go.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 thanks so much! I did order one, taking a chance, but your input makes me feel better about it.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 one more question if I'm not being a PIA. Still waiting on smoke unit replacement parts. After I disassembled my 681 to clean and lube it, I noticed it probably has the original smoke unit drum / barrel and cap. Both are slathered with the old cement. Is there anything I can use to dissolve or soften that to make removing the cap easier? I don't want to break anything. Thanks in advance!
What color is the cement? If its white, its not cement, thats the residue from the smoke pellets/liquid. That said there was an actual cement used, but only to seal the cap into the cup and it was grey. The barrel or plunger shouldn't be covered with anything. The white residue can be cleaned with WD40 and a green scouring pad. The grey cement I believe needs ti be heated slightly (soldering iron) and then scraped off.
I doubt its the grey stuff, Its rare to find it still there after all these years. I only have one loco that has it. Usually by now someone has opened that smoke unit and removed the grey cement.
OK, thanks - I'll have to look more closely. Funny thing, is after I lubed the train, the original smoke unit started working perfectly again! Very weird, but it's not broken so I'm not messing with it!
Did you not use anything to seal the cap to the pot of the smoke generator? Lionel originally used a special cement to make the seal. I think it was water heater cement. Check your Lionel service manual.
You can use the silver muffler repair epoxy from your local auto parts store to seal around the wire and ground strap holes as well as the cap seal if you need it. Just remember a little bit goes a long ways.
I saw this in the the Greenberg book after you mentioned it. Thanks for sharing. If someone wants to do that, sure, go for it. The actual material according to Greenberg book is Sauereisn No. 63 cement.
The smoke generators seem to work perfectly fine without being sealed this way. The metal caps, and replacement plastic ones fit very snug and makes a good seal.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331
I tried finding the cement and no luck. I also tried some other high temp nautical cement, it melted. I guess it is what it is!
Use exhaust patch.
Did i misunderstand you? I thought I heard you say you were going to use the pills on this fix? 🤔
Just the pill type smoke chamber. I don't actually use the pills. The liquid works perfectly well without leaving that white residue.