Thanks so much!! for info on this same motor I have, its been an issue to get worked on so I've decided as a hobby to work on it myself because I didn't want to purchase a new or rebuilt motor!!!
I used an old long reach spark plug as a piston stop, and I would recommend taking all your plugs out for that check. A whole lot easier to rotate the engine.
Great videos mate! I was wondering if you could go over the TDC bit as you rotated the fly ccw then cw and then you came to a conclusion of marking points & dividing some distance in half?! could you please elaborate more on that as I just need to make sure my motor, flywheel & distributor are all lined up correctly. what would happen if i set up my sync according to the lfywheel but the motor is not aligned to the fly as in TDC, what damage would it do? cheers
You need to use the TDC stop tool. When rotating clockwise and it comes to a stop, mark that point on flywheel in relationiship to shroud. Rotate counter clockwise and mark that point. Split the difference and that is TDC.
Have u ever attempted to locate TDC using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole ,and with all plugs out for ease of rotating , located TDC by eye and feel ,then checked to see how close you can get to the known good timing mark to see if using the stop tool is even necessary . Can the average joe get the TDC mark verified within a degree or so?
This is what I used to find TDC in my Tower of Power, just a old spark plug from my 1996 toyota 1.5 Paseo engine, it had the same diameter and thread. It has much longer threads and electrode that extend into the engines combustion chamber and will contact the piston before and after TDC. Mark those on your flywheel and measure halfway between those is TDC. Then you can get another timing tape sticker or get the timing mark measurements from his other videos. My timing marker tab broke off too, it was made of plastic, so I made a new one out of aluminum sheet metal about 0.090 thick, drilled holes in it and used my drill press with a cross slide vice with two axis movement to drill out a row od 0,025 holes to create a slot for the bolt and dowel pin, and then used a small 0.025 dia mill cutting cutter to cut the rest of the slot smooth from end to end. Then bent it to fit the old broken one after copying and cutting out the shape of the plastic broken one. Hope this helps.
Which tool did you get specifically? (sorry, new to outboards let alone motors heh) Great vids though, thanks so much. Got a 77 1150 on my new 1986 Venture Stallion, one heck of a motor.
I've got to check the timing, but the flywheel and distributor pulley are still set correctly to TDC.. (so unless the distributor trigger got jolted aside from the distributor pulley?) I'm at a loss, talk about crap luck.
Ha, it's a chainsaw thing? Or am I looking at the wrong ones? I take it Dr Frankenmerc has already verified the length is appropriate? Interesting find for sure, beats the hell out of a TDC gauge from what I've seen. Thanks again for the vids man, I had no idea when I bought the motor outboards are NOT like cars when looking for parts/maintenance tutorials etc.. lol
What is the torque for those 8 bolts for the flywheel or u just using threadlocker also I'm trying to find TDC with the piston stop method how far do I put the tool in is it hand tight or tighten it down til I can't no more
@@cturboaddict one last question once I find TDC do I take the flywheel off n position it to those 3 dots so it will line up or don't worry about the sticker
Well crap. After getting everything in tune and the motor running beautifully, I drifted onto a wing dam in the Mississippi. Luckily the boat's ok, but the jolt moved my arm into the throttle, so it increased prop speed into the rocks. :| The aluminum prop got replaced, the lower unit pressure tested fine along with the shaft. But now I have a vibration/extra noise at idle. This is still there in gear, but it will run WOT fine, mid range you can sense the vibration.. any ideas? :( lol ty
Thanks so much!! for info on this same motor I have, its been an issue to get worked on so I've decided as a hobby to work on it myself because I didn't want to purchase a new or rebuilt motor!!!
I used an old long reach spark plug as a piston stop, and I would recommend taking all your plugs out for that check. A whole lot easier to rotate the engine.
Great videos mate! I was wondering if you could go over the TDC bit as you rotated the fly ccw then cw and then you came to a conclusion of marking points & dividing some distance in half?! could you please elaborate more on that as I just need to make sure my motor, flywheel & distributor are all lined up correctly. what would happen if i set up my sync according to the lfywheel but the motor is not aligned to the fly as in TDC, what damage would it do? cheers
You need to use the TDC stop tool. When rotating clockwise and it comes to a stop, mark that point on flywheel in relationiship to shroud. Rotate counter clockwise and mark that point. Split the difference and that is TDC.
So is there any way you could be 180 out?
Have u ever attempted to locate TDC using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole ,and with all plugs out for ease of rotating , located TDC by eye and feel ,then checked to see how close you can get to the known good timing mark to see if using the stop tool is even necessary . Can the average joe get the TDC mark verified within a degree or so?
This is what I used to find TDC in my Tower of Power, just a old spark plug from my 1996 toyota 1.5 Paseo engine, it had the same diameter and thread. It has much longer threads and electrode that extend into the engines combustion chamber and will contact the piston before and after TDC. Mark those on your flywheel and measure halfway between those is TDC. Then you can get another timing tape sticker or get the timing mark measurements from his other videos. My timing marker tab broke off too, it was made of plastic, so I made a new one out of aluminum sheet metal about 0.090 thick, drilled holes in it and used my drill press with a cross slide vice with two axis movement to drill out a row od 0,025 holes to create a slot for the bolt and dowel pin, and then used a small 0.025 dia mill cutting cutter to cut the rest of the slot smooth from end to end. Then bent it to fit the old broken one after copying and cutting out the shape of the plastic broken one. Hope this helps.
Which tool did you get specifically? (sorry, new to outboards let alone motors heh)
Great vids though, thanks so much. Got a 77 1150 on my new 1986 Venture Stallion, one heck of a motor.
Hey you mention in your video you have measurements from the three dots for sync and link. turns out my flywheel doesn't have a sticker
I've got to check the timing, but the flywheel and distributor pulley are still set correctly to TDC.. (so unless the distributor trigger got jolted aside from the distributor pulley?) I'm at a loss, talk about crap luck.
what is the length of the piston stop including threat ?
albert roswell Don't know off the top of my head.
www.amickssuperstore.com/Stihl_Piston_Stop_Tool_p/stihl%20piston%20stop%20tool.htm
Hi, do we need to set fly wheel on same place (position) if only change stator?
Yes if you want to use the timing marks. If not, then no.
@@cturboaddict thank you
Ha, it's a chainsaw thing? Or am I looking at the wrong ones? I take it Dr Frankenmerc has already verified the length is appropriate? Interesting find for sure, beats the hell out of a TDC gauge from what I've seen. Thanks again for the vids man, I had no idea when I bought the motor outboards are NOT like cars when looking for parts/maintenance tutorials etc.. lol
What is the torque for those 8 bolts for the flywheel or u just using threadlocker also I'm trying to find TDC with the piston stop method how far do I put the tool in is it hand tight or tighten it down til I can't no more
Don't recall the tq off the tip of my head. Yes, blue loctite. And thread the tool for full depth.
@@cturboaddict one last question once I find TDC do I take the flywheel off n position it to those 3 dots so it will line up or don't worry about the sticker
@@semaj2358 0 on the sticker should align with the pointer. (If you have one). If you don't have the pointer, you'll need another way to align it
Thank you so much
one more thing which video is the trigger test
albert roswell czcams.com/video/AuZL-Dnw-0w/video.html
Well crap. After getting everything in tune and the motor running beautifully, I drifted onto a wing dam in the Mississippi. Luckily the boat's ok, but the jolt moved my arm into the throttle, so it increased prop speed into the rocks. :| The aluminum prop got replaced, the lower unit pressure tested fine along with the shaft. But now I have a vibration/extra noise at idle. This is still there in gear, but it will run WOT fine, mid range you can sense the vibration.. any ideas? :( lol ty
Roger Wilco bent driveshaft? bent prop shaft?
im thinking to make one
albert roswell They are like $3, you'd be better off buying on.