What was this demonstration supposed to show? It didn't really did anything to help explain the difference between the two tools. A hammerdrill applies a force along the axis of the bit, essentially pulverizing the material; it's like rapidly smacking the back end of the bit with a hammer. An impact driver applies the impact force rotationally, resulting in less reaction torque on the operator; it's like having a wrench on the bit, and rapidly smacking the end of the wench to turn the bit.
This is true. Impact driver is smaller and forearm will fatigue less when there is less torque to fight against. It might feel small thing when driving small amount of screws but when building decks etc. it makes a big difference.
I'm a newb to impact vs hammer and was wondering the same thing. The video really didn't explain the difference in action as well as this comment. Nice usage of analogies.
Don’t use an impact drill to fasten into timber. The longitudinal action of the hammer would mash the wood, reducing its holding power. Using the impact drill would certainly speed it up but at the cost of preventing the screw threads from cutting nice grooves into the wood.
The impact driver does all the work and is easy on the wrist. Mostly with the hammer drill you have to control the force it spins. Hammer for holes and driver for screws is what most people do because it’s easiest.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. czcams.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
OK, honestly, I never would have guessed you would use a hammer drill like this in wood. A drill or impact driver, yes, but not the hammer drill. Great video.
You wouldn't. No clue why they even did this test. The hammer mode will most likely destroy your bits in no time when they slip off the screws and increase the chance of RSI due to the extra vibrations in the tool. All this video does is teach people how to use their tools the wrong way, your replay is a perfect example of what happens (not blaming you, but the people making this video).
I've been seeing more guys onsite using impact drivers for big-bore drill bits. I asked why, and the consensus seems to be that using an impact puts less of a chance of torque-twist on the user, actually making it easier. I haven't tried this yet myself, but it would be cool if you could do a video verifying or negating this. Thanks!
I'm surprised at how useful my impact is for most things I used to use my drill for. I got the drill first thinking it was the logical thing to do, but I should have gotten the impact first, there's very little they can't do.
There is no chance to torque twisting because all what the impact driver has to do is overcome the hammer spring. It is constant always unless the impact driver hammer & anvil decide to get stuck together forever in unbelievable failure but guess the world is big enough for that to happen at least once.
Trust me If you driving too much screw in your job with a regular drill and doesn't use impact driver mode, you will hurt your hand. Impact driver is the best choice for driving a screw, it is "friendly" to your hands. No matter how long it takes to driving screw, but it use less energy than using regular drill.. Different tools for different job.. Sorry for bad gramar. doesn't talk in English.
I have accidentally used the hammer function when driving machine screws etc. The hammer function tends to really beat up the bits! Since I don't generally work with concrete fasteners, on those rare occasions I use an impact driver with the concrete bits. The time I lose with the odd concrete fastener is saved by the quick chuck of the impact driver. Yep, no need to carry a hammer drill with me as my drill driver does not have a hammer function so I can get the most compact head in tight spaces. After all, a hammer drill does OK but when compared to the SDS variaty--well, there ya go. Good information!
I was running a masonry screw into brick with a hammer drill. The screw caught & wouldn't turn. The torque of the hammer drill twisted the drill right out of my hand. That's not an issue with the impact driver. I used the impact driver for the rest of the screws with no problem.
I think it might be better to show that the impact is supposed to be better for removing more seized up nuts or screws … something more akin to the way the 1/4" impact air driver is used in mechanic garages, whereas the drill or hammer drill might shred or damage the head. Also for a control, I would use the drill to slam in those screws without the hammer showing off 3 different versions, but 2 styles from the hammer drill oh and also throw in an SDS drill to compete too for some real action especially on the concrete and the use of larger diameter drill bits.
Recently, I had to remove a storm door from my house. (The lawn service we use sent a pebble through the glass window on the door.) I started by using my screwdriver and that only lasted for three screws. Then, I pulled out used my cordless drill, and that lasted about five screws before I tried my cordless hammer drill. I was shocked at how little effort was needed to remove all of the screws! I chose the hammer drill over the impact driver because of a closeout sale on the hammer drill! Also, in the past, I've had experience with corded hammer drills.
I carry a DeWalt 2nd gen 12v impact driver on my hip all day...it is 100% adequate for what I need. I also have a DeWalt 20v impact driver and a DeWalt 20v hammer drill. For the weight alone, I could not imagine wearing the hammer drill on my hip all day.
Well I consider the hammer drill for more intense jobs like anchoring down atms or putting in commercial shelving, however I consider its power and versatility for jobs where the 12v is in trouble almost like a backup, but I do agree carrying the thing on your side through the job site is killer.
Hey can you do a video on Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer Drill? When I buy a new drill I make sure it is a Hammer Drill but then I never use the hammer feature it unless I am stuck without my Rotary Hammer Drill because the later just melts through concrete. I pair a Rotary Hammer for the holes and use an impact Wrench for driving Red Heads or and Impact Driver for Tapcons. I only use my Hammer Drill when I am on a ladder and only want one tool.
Hammer drill is basically a regular drill but with a mode that has very rapid but very tiny up/down vibrations that slowly chip away concrete while you drill. A rotary hammer has less impacts per minute, but MUCH harder hitting impacts. There's no contest. Rotary hammers blow hammer drills out of the water for concrete. However, if you're only going to be drilling small holes (less than 1/2") in concrete, and only once in a while, then a hammer drill will do just fine (though on concrete that has hardened for 20 years it'll struggle).
Super helpful. I was torn between going for Impact drill and hammer drill for my woodwork DIY screwing and drilling job, now I know what choice to make. Thank you.
The flow of this video was very smooth compared to past ones. I actually was able to learn something instead of being cringed by the bad chemistry between you and your partner. Please keep making future videos this way.
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks being nice is good but if you squash your inner voice in order to not hurt someone’s feelings then you are doing them a disservice. People make mistakes without even knowing because it has become part of their nature. You have to be able to point certain things out in order for them to grow and improve.
@@YesImhymn nope. Your comment was needlessly rude about their "chemisty". People come to me for professional counselling, I am a certified bully blocker kiddo.
Hammer drill for that concrete test... the side motion instead of linear motion (impact) helps bring the material out (as long as the bit is an "up-bit"), making it drill faster and also causes less heat on the bit which will help keep it sharper longer. If you're drilling a lot of holes in wood (and also don't care about accuracy), and decide to opt for the hammer drill, you could get used to the density and twist your wrist if not using the brace when hitting a big knot, metal, etc.. I would opt for an impact on wood every time in soft woods. Hard wood, I would use a pilot hole and hand screw.
I only use tools for diy and I'm not a pro. For construction or structural wood building, nails are superior and faster with pneumatic nail gun (already know/obviously)
LMFAO dude stop trying to play it off you could completely tell that you were hoping the impact driver was the better of the two. You can tell by the way you kept asking and asking like really? really? are you sure? The look on your face was priceless. You completely thought that the impact mechanism was far superior than the hammer mechanism. 🤣
A better example to prove the need of a hammering action vs impact action is porcelain or travertine. These two hard materials are super difficult to drill. A hammer drill is needed for these. I install shower doors and no matter how good your masonry bit is, a hammer drill speeds up the process.
Hammer drill? Jesu-cristo. We use small diamond core bits and drill bits to cut a perfect and slightly larger hole before we drill into the waterproofing boards and studs.
@@bdog0720 With travertine you would win for sure. For porcelain it's pretty fast and best of all I never crack anything here's a good video czcams.com/users/shortsjo0swInChAQ
@@Chris11249 That wasn’t a good video. It was sped up. I use Relton Groo-V Tip bits on a hammer drill. I’ve used several other brands including diamond, but these cut the fastest.
@@hippo-potamus Will try to be simple, Hammer mode, can ruin the meeting points(instead of nice threads being cut, it can become a smooth hole at certain points) vs solid wood, laminate, plywood etc.., this can become an issue overtime with load bearing, expanding/contracting of wood.. etc.. Yeah you can get away with using good quality hex screws, but you will strip the screw with Philips, while also ruining the bit as it is not rated to be hammered. I get it, it's like people want a tool that can do everything, but unfortunately, to do things properly, you need the right tool for the job. For instance that dewalt battery powered hammer drill, going into foundational concrete,, it would take you 30mins to go in. You would need a rotary hammer drill, yes those big boys looking like a reciprocating saw on the shelf. The hammer drill function on a cordless drill, I mean it's great for small things around the house, but it's over hyped.
@@sdfsdf2205 Thanks. My house has solid concrete block walls with concrete plaster on top, the dewalt atomic 20v hammer drill has been the MVP of my renovation. Small, light weight, but highly efficient. Its a true workhorse.
A hammer drill setting used on any fasteners will damage the threading or tear the material you are driving through. Imaging using a hand hammer to ram a screw into a board of wood or ram a bolt into a threaded insert. You can imagine how much damage it would do to the threading. A hammer drill is really only for drilling holes into concrete and masonry.
For one thing the hammer drill has more torque than the impact, plus the increase in torque will be felt in your wrist witch will wear you down faster. Also as the man said above it will tear the screws and bits up.
@@sahibal-shemeri5466 Good point. I'm just learning, but it seems like a lot of people, even guys making these videos, sort of miss that crucial distinction you made. The "hammer" is a big part of the name hammer drill. You don't hammer a screw to save 3 seconds. So if I'm understanding correctly... Because most hammer drills allow you to turn OFF the hammer mode and use it as a regular driver drill, if you're just buying ONE good all-rounder the hammer drill would be a great option...right?? (Assuming (1) I'm needing to twist screws into things most often, (2) do light drilling every now and then, and (3) only on rare occasions will need to drill into masonry in hammer mode, but (4) would appreciate having that killer option on board.) Basically I'd use it for fasteners with the hammer turned off, then switch on the hammer mode only in tough drilling situations. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. (Soon would be great....I'm buying something in the next day or two! ha. But really.)
As far as I can tell, impactors are good for reducing strain on your wrist and minimising cam-out (slippage) of screws. But the latter only applies to Pozi (or even moreso to Phillips) - torx screws almost never slips so it doesn't make a lot of sense to use them in a test like this, imo
3 seconds isn't really enough for me to get a whole new tool when it comes to home projects or even work since my job doesn't drill into concrete much. No more than 3-5 times per job-site. So saving 15 seconds isn't really worth the extra 130. Thanks for the info.
That tiny hammer drill is probably just extremely weak. But could replace smaller drills as a light all-round tool. Neither would go through most common harder materials, and neither is necessary for wood or metal. Looks like they picked the one type of stone they were able to drill. The impact drivers is primarily useful for fastening screws and nuts with specific torque against metal. A strong rotary hammer plus a small normal drill handles most jobs.
Never knew the mechanism but I knew the uses lol and when to use them over the years..glad I know what they actually do now lol with this knowledge I’ll know what the tools are actually capable of and what material is best suited to what tool
Does the effect on hole is same?i use one before borrow a hammer drill from my friend to hang something on my wall, but it turn the hole not clean as impact dril, it cause crack around the hole, n the hole become bigger then the drill bit size n make the wall plug loose.
In the case of wood screws, what you have shown is the opposite of what you have claimed. It is so apparent that the Hammer mode has won in both cases of concrete and wood. It makes perfect sense to me now.
@@dragonfireproductions790 Self-tappers can still cause wood to split... not sure whether not having a pilot hole reduces holding strength if the wood doesn’t split (sure, splitting is rare) but I'd want to see an experiment to convince me it's definitely the impact driver over either over-tightening, countersunk head resistance causing the thread to tear at the wood fibres or lack of pilot holes
All of us here wondering if we need yet another tool and using this video to persuade our better half that we do indeed need another tool. That will never be used on a nice weekend
But the hammer setting on a hammer drill is just a setting.. it also has a screw setting and drill setting you can change it to. So if you had to choose only ONE drill to have. Out of a drill/driver, impact or hammer drill. It would be a hammer drill right??
I don't understand a thing in this comment section but I'll be installing a canopy and curtain holder on concrete and I was thinking a hammer drill is the right thing to buy?
So I'm guessing in a perfect world you'd use both to drive a screw fastener into rock/brick? Hammer drill for the pilot hole, then impact driver for the concrete hex head fastener? If you only had one tool, which would get you a 1/4" screw into brick the fastest, from pilot hole to screwing in the fastener?
As a professional in the field that mounts many things to masonry materials the answer to your question is…. Yes. Anyone doing this kind of work professionally will have both. And an SDS for boring holes bigger than 1/2”.
There would be little benefit. For an impact driver, the hammering would be parallel with the brick, hammer drill the hammering would be perpendicular or into the brick.
Obviously I will because it’s as job but if I have a choice I will never work with people who are using impact drills, or I will work as far away from them as possible because there are too loud for me.
holy cow, here I am sad over the years wishing I had an impact driver.😅 watching impact drivers videos on wood looks awesome not knowing drills can do it too.
@@Protoolreviews thanks I greatly appreciate the help 🙏 but one last question, what would be the preferred brand hammer drill in a buisness where you know it'll be used actively?
Ignore these idiots on this channel, hammer function is for drilling it should not be used for screws thats why hammer drills have screwdriver mode selector and also a non hammer drilling mode
use the hammer drill to drive the screw is like spin the screw driver and hitting it at the same time. That is why the screw goes in faster but at what cost...material damage?
A drill is faster up to a point. Under no load, the impact is faster. Under light to medium load, the drill will keep its RPMs, whilst the impact will slow down as it engages its impact mechanism. Under heavy load, the drill will either need to be switched to low gear which is much slower, or it will just straight up not be able to complete the task. The other key point is that impact drivers transfer no noteworthy torque to the user's hands. Try it at home: get a 4x4 and drive a 1/2" x 4" lag into it with a drill...you'll need to hang on for dear life, especially once the head of the lag makes contact with the wood...whereas with the impact driver you can use just your thumb and index finger and check your text messages while you do it.
Ok so I have done the same thing with my gen 3 hammer drill and was shocked at how fast and far down it did a screw, but my question is wouldn’t it tear the threads out that the screw hole created in the wood? Maybe not? But I would think it would Create a stripped out hole if you will 🤔
That's my thinking also. I was guessing that's why he said it's not a good idea to use it on wood, but it's only a guess. Could be worth some playing around to see what kind of holes it leaves.
@@Protoolreviews makes sense except the clutch settings on the gen 3 are too aggressive for soft wood. Whenever I am drilling into cabinets or finish work I tend to use the old ryobi with a mechanical clutch that gives much easier. Too many times if not careful on the trigger my gen 3 set on 1 will still drive a screw too far. But thank you for the response. The gen 3 is a beast
milwaukee drill being brushless is really a beast, could beat impact driver. However, most normal brushed drills, brushed motors impact driver would perform better in terms of fastening screws
guessing here.... But I suppose you'd use a hammer drill for fast easy work drilling through concrete - but you'd use an impact driver if you wanted to screw a bolt/concrete screw directly into the concrete?
probably because they are a near identical mechanism. the only problem is that an impact wrench doesn’t have the right chuck to take drill bits, only sockets unless if you have an adapter
yes. In some really soft concrete. I bought impact drill for drilling in wood/metal with standart drill mode, drill in concrete with impact mode and to use as a screw driver with screw driver mode or drill mode. It drives screws into wood fasted than impact unless you use some huge screws. (like bolting some logs toghether) and also impact is very loud. If you want to buy one tool for all, buy impact drill/combo drill with something like 50 nM in 1st gear and it will do like all of home- gamer jobs without annoying neighbors.
If I just want to drill a screw into the wood windowsill thingy to hold up the curtain rod holder, what kind of drill would be best? 🤔 Some people on here are saying that an impact drill will strip the wood in the hole it made. As of right now, I do not know the difference between an impact drill, rotary drill, hammer drill, or etc etc. Can someone help me?
for attaching curtain rod on wood I would recommend impact driver for *driving* screws since you might be working in a tight area. don't use the hammer action for driving screws when using impact drill, even on hard wood. rotary drill even with no hammer action is a big no for driving screws since it has high RPM and much less control
@@Rikardo97 So I should use an impact drill, make sure no hammering, and pre-drill first with a bit smaller than the screw...correct? 😊 Thank you. I didn't know we were supposed to pre-drill. I thought we were supposed to hold the screw up, and drill directly into the wood till it made a hole. 😬
@@GoaWay... the hammer action on impact driver is automatic due to the increasing resistance the driver feels. can't be set to off. as I said with no hammer action, if you tend to use impact drill such Bosch GSB 180 LI to drive screws.
@@GoaWay... pre-drilling is a must to prevent cracks on wood when you're about to drive screw into soft wood, or putting screw on close-to-edge side of wood.
using a hammer drill for screws is completely ridiculous, it destroys any threads in the wood...of course it's fast...the screw has nothing to hold on to anymore...you might as well argue that slamming a nail inside wood is even faster
You can attach wire wheels, paint mixing wheels and loads of nifty attachments, also the drill has a clutch very useful for drywall screws as an example It's by far the most versatile power tool
My experience is that the impact driver has less slipping, which is nice when using phillipsscrews. And the hex collet makes shifting accessories ALOT faster than with a drill chuck. Besides that, I'd say if you are just getting one of them, the hammer drill is the way to go.
What was this demonstration supposed to show? It didn't really did anything to help explain the difference between the two tools. A hammerdrill applies a force along the axis of the bit, essentially pulverizing the material; it's like rapidly smacking the back end of the bit with a hammer. An impact driver applies the impact force rotationally, resulting in less reaction torque on the operator; it's like having a wrench on the bit, and rapidly smacking the end of the wench to turn the bit.
Michael Quinlan I've been looking for a concise explanation of the difference between these tools. You nailed it, thank you!
This is true. Impact driver is smaller and forearm will fatigue less when there is less torque to fight against. It might feel small thing when driving small amount of screws but when building decks etc. it makes a big difference.
@@RossWilcox yes but why do o need both, if the hammer drill does it all?
I'm a newb to impact vs hammer and was wondering the same thing. The video really didn't explain the difference in action as well as this comment. Nice usage of analogies.
@@Protoolreviews well then do t name it the difference in them then not talk about the major difference
Don’t use an impact drill to fasten into timber. The longitudinal action of the hammer would mash the wood, reducing its holding power. Using the impact drill would certainly speed it up but at the cost of preventing the screw threads from cutting nice grooves into the wood.
Thanks for the info I've actually had that happen to me before and I blamed the screws.
really? what do I buy then because every normal drill I buy doesn't have enough torque to drive 75mm 10G screws. I think I need an impact driver
my impact drill has screwdriver mode..
Impact drivers are for one purpose and one purpose only: To loosen stubborn bolts and nuts.
@@troelshansen6212 I think you have confused an imact driver with an impact wrench
The impact driver does all the work and is easy on the wrist. Mostly with the hammer drill you have to control the force it spins.
Hammer for holes and driver for screws is what most people do because it’s easiest.
The hammer drill has both a torque cloth adjustment ring and a speed setting. This makes it a notch above the small impact Driver.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. czcams.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
OK, honestly, I never would have guessed you would use a hammer drill like this in wood. A drill or impact driver, yes, but not the hammer drill. Great video.
You wouldn't. No clue why they even did this test. The hammer mode will most likely destroy your bits in no time when they slip off the screws and increase the chance of RSI due to the extra vibrations in the tool.
All this video does is teach people how to use their tools the wrong way, your replay is a perfect example of what happens (not blaming you, but the people making this video).
I've been seeing more guys onsite using impact drivers for big-bore drill bits. I asked why, and the consensus seems to be that using an impact puts less of a chance of torque-twist on the user, actually making it easier. I haven't tried this yet myself, but it would be cool if you could do a video verifying or negating this. Thanks!
I'm surprised at how useful my impact is for most things I used to use my drill for. I got the drill first thinking it was the logical thing to do, but I should have gotten the impact first, there's very little they can't do.
There is no chance to torque twisting because all what the impact driver has to do is overcome the hammer spring. It is constant always unless the impact driver hammer & anvil decide to get stuck together forever in unbelievable failure but guess the world is big enough for that to happen at least once.
Idk I feel like a lot of ppl just go impact for everything lol
Trust me
If you driving too much screw in your job with a regular drill and doesn't use impact driver mode, you will hurt your hand. Impact driver is the best choice for driving a screw, it is "friendly" to your hands. No matter how long it takes to driving screw, but it use less energy than using regular drill.. Different tools for different job.. Sorry for bad gramar. doesn't talk in English.
I have accidentally used the hammer function when driving machine screws etc. The hammer function tends to really beat up the bits! Since I don't generally work with concrete fasteners, on those rare occasions I use an impact driver with the concrete bits. The time I lose with the odd concrete fastener is saved by the quick chuck of the impact driver. Yep, no need to carry a hammer drill with me as my drill driver does not have a hammer function so I can get the most compact head in tight spaces. After all, a hammer drill does OK but when compared to the SDS variaty--well, there ya go. Good information!
You need to switch to drill mode. The hammer fiction utilizes the drills mass.
That's what I can see. Torq is a physics fiction and mass is a factor
I was running a masonry screw into brick with a hammer drill. The screw caught & wouldn't turn. The torque of the hammer drill twisted the drill right out of my hand. That's not an issue with the impact driver. I used the impact driver for the rest of the screws with no problem.
I think it might be better to show that the impact is supposed to be better for removing more seized up nuts or screws … something more akin to the way the 1/4" impact air driver is used in mechanic garages, whereas the drill or hammer drill might shred or damage the head.
Also for a control, I would use the drill to slam in those screws without the hammer showing off 3 different versions, but 2 styles from the hammer drill oh and also throw in an SDS drill to compete too for some real action especially on the concrete and the use of larger diameter drill bits.
Recently, I had to remove a storm door from my house. (The lawn service we use sent a pebble through the glass window on the door.) I started by using my screwdriver and that only lasted for three screws. Then, I pulled out used my cordless drill, and that lasted about five screws before I tried my cordless hammer drill. I was shocked at how little effort was needed to remove all of the screws! I chose the hammer drill over the impact driver because of a closeout sale on the hammer drill! Also, in the past, I've had experience with corded hammer drills.
How the hammering action help with the removal of the screw?
@@himmelsturmerIX it beat off the rust😂
I carry a DeWalt 2nd gen 12v impact driver on my hip all day...it is 100% adequate for what I need. I also have a DeWalt 20v impact driver and a DeWalt 20v hammer drill. For the weight alone, I could not imagine wearing the hammer drill on my hip all day.
Well I consider the hammer drill for more intense jobs like anchoring down atms or putting in commercial shelving, however I consider its power and versatility for jobs where the 12v is in trouble almost like a backup, but I do agree carrying the thing on your side through the job site is killer.
Hey can you do a video on Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer Drill? When I buy a new drill I make sure it is a Hammer Drill but then I never use the hammer feature it unless I am stuck without my Rotary Hammer Drill because the later just melts through concrete. I pair a Rotary Hammer for the holes and use an impact Wrench for driving Red Heads or and Impact Driver for Tapcons. I only use my Hammer Drill when I am on a ladder and only want one tool.
Hammer drill is basically a regular drill but with a mode that has very rapid but very tiny up/down vibrations that slowly chip away concrete while you drill.
A rotary hammer has less impacts per minute, but MUCH harder hitting impacts. There's no contest. Rotary hammers blow hammer drills out of the water for concrete. However, if you're only going to be drilling small holes (less than 1/2") in concrete, and only once in a while, then a hammer drill will do just fine (though on concrete that has hardened for 20 years it'll struggle).
Super helpful. I was torn between going for Impact drill and hammer drill for my woodwork DIY screwing and drilling job, now I know what choice to make. Thank you.
Get makita impact drill
Thanks much for a great video!!!
The flow of this video was very smooth compared to past ones. I actually was able to learn something instead of being cringed by the bad chemistry between you and your partner.
Please keep making future videos this way.
What about taking out old tile in a bathroom to replace with new, in that case would I use the hammer drill with a chisel bit?
Its not perfect but you should be nicer to the free video makers
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks being nice is good but if you squash your inner voice in order to not hurt someone’s feelings then you are doing them a disservice.
People make mistakes without even knowing because it has become part of their nature. You have to be able to point certain things out in order for them to grow and improve.
@@YesImhymn nope. Your comment was needlessly rude about their "chemisty". People come to me for professional counselling, I am a certified bully blocker kiddo.
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks the world needs some bullying.
Hammer drill for that concrete test... the side motion instead of linear motion (impact) helps bring the material out (as long as the bit is an "up-bit"), making it drill faster and also causes less heat on the bit which will help keep it sharper longer.
If you're drilling a lot of holes in wood (and also don't care about accuracy), and decide to opt for the hammer drill, you could get used to the density and twist your wrist if not using the brace when hitting a big knot, metal, etc.. I would opt for an impact on wood every time in soft woods. Hard wood, I would use a pilot hole and hand screw.
I only use tools for diy and I'm not a pro. For construction or structural wood building, nails are superior and faster with pneumatic nail gun (already know/obviously)
So, considering the cost of each drill, for an ordinary diy projects, drilling holes to concrete, a cordless impact drill can do the job. Thanks
LMFAO dude stop trying to play it off you could completely tell that you were hoping the impact driver was the better of the two. You can tell by the way you kept asking and asking like really? really? are you sure? The look on your face was priceless. You completely thought that the impact mechanism was far superior than the hammer mechanism. 🤣
A better example to prove the need of a hammering action vs impact action is porcelain or travertine. These two hard materials are super difficult to drill. A hammer drill is needed for these. I install shower doors and no matter how good your masonry bit is, a hammer drill speeds up the process.
Hammer drill? Jesu-cristo. We use small diamond core bits and drill bits to cut a perfect and slightly larger hole before we drill into the waterproofing boards and studs.
@@Chris11249
Let’s have a race then? My hammer drill vs your diamond core bits.
Jesu-Cristo! Remember, I was talking about speeding up the process.🤦🏻
@@bdog0720 That'd be a good YT video actually!
@@bdog0720 With travertine you would win for sure. For porcelain it's pretty fast and best of all I never crack anything here's a good video czcams.com/users/shortsjo0swInChAQ
@@Chris11249
That wasn’t a good video. It was sped up.
I use Relton Groo-V Tip bits on a hammer drill. I’ve used several other brands including diamond, but these cut the fastest.
We are living in mco now in Malaysia..good to see your video..keep it up👍
First person I’ve seen to compare with averaging. Most people just drill one screw in and call that time
This video disproves all that we heard about impact drivers lol.
You should never use hammer mode on the drill while screwing. Hammer mode is only for drilling into bricks or concrete.
You made the statement, now can you actually EXPAIN why not?
@@hippo-potamus Will try to be simple, Hammer mode, can ruin the meeting points(instead of nice threads being cut, it can become a smooth hole at certain points) vs solid wood, laminate, plywood etc.., this can become an issue overtime with load bearing, expanding/contracting of wood.. etc.. Yeah you can get away with using good quality hex screws, but you will strip the screw with Philips, while also ruining the bit as it is not rated to be hammered. I get it, it's like people want a tool that can do everything, but unfortunately, to do things properly, you need the right tool for the job. For instance that dewalt battery powered hammer drill, going into foundational concrete,, it would take you 30mins to go in. You would need a rotary hammer drill, yes those big boys looking like a reciprocating saw on the shelf. The hammer drill function on a cordless drill, I mean it's great for small things around the house, but it's over hyped.
@@sdfsdf2205 Thanks. My house has solid concrete block walls with concrete plaster on top, the dewalt atomic 20v hammer drill has been the MVP of my renovation. Small, light weight, but highly efficient. Its a true workhorse.
@@hippo-potamus Bruh, you need to make your troll game better.
Hammer = Concrete
Impact = Wood
Always find the drill driver is best for most jobs but sometimes you need that extra grunt, which is where the impact driver comes into it's own!
Thanks for the great video. I still can’t understand why not use a hammer drill for faster as it appears to work better than the driver in this video
A hammer drill setting used on any fasteners will damage the threading or tear the material you are driving through. Imaging using a hand hammer to ram a screw into a board of wood or ram a bolt into a threaded insert. You can imagine how much damage it would do to the threading. A hammer drill is really only for drilling holes into concrete and masonry.
For one thing the hammer drill has more torque than the impact, plus the increase in torque will be felt in your wrist witch will wear you down faster. Also as the man said above it will tear the screws and bits up.
@@sahibal-shemeri5466 Good point. I'm just learning, but it seems like a lot of people, even guys making these videos, sort of miss that crucial distinction you made. The "hammer" is a big part of the name hammer drill. You don't hammer a screw to save 3 seconds.
So if I'm understanding correctly... Because most hammer drills allow you to turn OFF the hammer mode and use it as a regular driver drill, if you're just buying ONE good all-rounder the hammer drill would be a great option...right?? (Assuming (1) I'm needing to twist screws into things most often, (2) do light drilling every now and then, and (3) only on rare occasions will need to drill into masonry in hammer mode, but (4) would appreciate having that killer option on board.)
Basically I'd use it for fasteners with the hammer turned off, then switch on the hammer mode only in tough drilling situations. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. (Soon would be great....I'm buying something in the next day or two! ha. But really.)
@@darren2329 you got it exactly right. Its a great buy as an all rounder since you can turn hammer function on/ off
As far as I can tell, impactors are good for reducing strain on your wrist and minimising cam-out (slippage) of screws. But the latter only applies to Pozi (or even moreso to Phillips) - torx screws almost never slips so it doesn't make a lot of sense to use them in a test like this, imo
The Difference is the battery life, when I use a drill my battery dies so quick
3 seconds isn't really enough for me to get a whole new tool when it comes to home projects or even work since my job doesn't drill into concrete much. No more than 3-5 times per job-site.
So saving 15 seconds isn't really worth the extra 130. Thanks for the info.
Agreed. I thought the same thing.
That tiny hammer drill is probably just extremely weak. But could replace smaller drills as a light all-round tool.
Neither would go through most common harder materials, and neither is necessary for wood or metal. Looks like they picked the one type of stone they were able to drill.
The impact drivers is primarily useful for fastening screws and nuts with specific torque against metal.
A strong rotary hammer plus a small normal drill handles most jobs.
Never knew the mechanism but I knew the uses lol and when to use them over the years..glad I know what they actually do now lol with this knowledge I’ll know what the tools are actually capable of and what material is best suited to what tool
Might a hammer drill be more damaging to the integrity of the screw or to the wall of the material that the threads are grabbing into?
Hammer drill and impact driver both provide impact forces very few fasteners are designed for
Thank you
Does the effect on hole is same?i use one before borrow a hammer drill from my friend to hang something on my wall, but it turn the hole not clean as impact dril, it cause crack around the hole, n the hole become bigger then the drill bit size n make the wall plug loose.
Lmfao
In the case of wood screws, what you have shown is the opposite of what you have claimed. It is so apparent that the Hammer mode has won in both cases of concrete and wood. It makes perfect sense to me now.
Don't use impacts on wood, it will reduce its holding power and may crack some types of wood
@@dragonfireproductions790Doesn't that go for screwing in drivers without pilot holes generally?
@@feanor5037 self tapping screws only need rotational force.
@@dragonfireproductions790 Self-tappers can still cause wood to split... not sure whether not having a pilot hole reduces holding strength if the wood doesn’t split (sure, splitting is rare) but I'd want to see an experiment to convince me it's definitely the impact driver over either over-tightening, countersunk head resistance causing the thread to tear at the wood fibres or lack of pilot holes
@@feanor5037 well to be safe though pilot holes are needed so that you won't misalign the screws causing more issues like splitting etc.
Thanks
All of us here wondering if we need yet another tool and using this video to persuade our better half that we do indeed need another tool. That will never be used on a nice weekend
The difference between a hammer drill and and an impact driver is seen when you loosen a rusted nut.
But the hammer setting on a hammer drill is just a setting.. it also has a screw setting and drill setting you can change it to. So if you had to choose only ONE drill to have. Out of a drill/driver, impact or hammer drill. It would be a hammer drill right??
Hm. I thought hammer drills had a side handle. 😁 Good video, thanks.
Not going to lie, I wasn’t expecting the results of the first test...
This helped me a lot - But may I also ask, what's the difference between a Hammer Drill and a Rotary Hammer?
I don't understand a thing in this comment section but I'll be installing a canopy and curtain holder on concrete and I was thinking a hammer drill is the right thing to buy?
So I'm guessing in a perfect world you'd use both to drive a screw fastener into rock/brick? Hammer drill for the pilot hole, then impact driver for the concrete hex head fastener? If you only had one tool, which would get you a 1/4" screw into brick the fastest, from pilot hole to screwing in the fastener?
As a professional in the field that mounts many things to masonry materials the answer to your question is….
Yes. Anyone doing this kind of work professionally will have both. And an SDS for boring holes bigger than 1/2”.
My question is: drilling through stuccoed-over cinder block how do you know where the easier spaces are?
Excellent info: thanks!
Ty for the video
can I use impact driver on brick instead of hammer drill?
It didn't work so well for me. I had to get a hammer drill for the brick.
There would be little benefit. For an impact driver, the hammering would be parallel with the brick, hammer drill the hammering would be perpendicular or into the brick.
NO, you need a hammer drill.
Another great example on how this channel teaches people the wrong things. This channel is complete bullshit.
Only works on certain things and it also depends on what kind of drill and bit you got, cheap drill and bit won't won't, it will just snap of
Obviously I will because it’s as job but if I have a choice I will never work with people who are using impact drills, or I will work as far away from them as possible because there are too loud for me.
Impact Driver has Speed Control ?
Impact driver can be used as impact wrench?
Great show, i liked it!
Why would you never use the hammer mode on the hammer drill to screw fasteners when it does it faster than the impact
What about hydraulic impact drivers?
Fluid rather than mechanical gears driving hammers
If its quieter, it doesn't hit as hard- AVE
holy cow, here I am sad over the years wishing I had an impact driver.😅 watching impact drivers videos on wood looks awesome not knowing drills can do it too.
drills are better
Complete noob here: Wich would be a better choice tool for the outside exterior of home walls that use eifs or stucco? Hammer drill or impact?
@@Protoolreviews thanks I greatly appreciate the help 🙏 but one last question, what would be the preferred brand hammer drill in a buisness where you know it'll be used actively?
Is the Hammer Drill more so forcing the screw in as a nail? Or actually spinning it down without stripping the spirals of the screw?
Ignore these idiots on this channel, hammer function is for drilling it should not be used for screws thats why hammer drills have screwdriver mode selector and also a non hammer drilling mode
use the hammer drill to drive the screw is like spin the screw driver and hitting it at the same time. That is why the screw goes in faster but at what cost...material damage?
Thanks to this informational video
Nice
For me, the hammer drill outperformed the impact at every level. I might use the hammer drill as my go-to. Actions speak larger than words. Thanks.
Try your lug nuts with a hammer drill. I want to see the video
@@jacobking4106 You would use a Impact Wrench on lug nuts.
@@JR-lg8sq no shit sherlock.
@@jacobking4106 So why comment asking him to remove lug nuts with a hammer drill, you clearly aren't Sherlock.
A drill is faster up to a point. Under no load, the impact is faster. Under light to medium load, the drill will keep its RPMs, whilst the impact will slow down as it engages its impact mechanism. Under heavy load, the drill will either need to be switched to low gear which is much slower, or it will just straight up not be able to complete the task.
The other key point is that impact drivers transfer no noteworthy torque to the user's hands. Try it at home: get a 4x4 and drive a 1/2" x 4" lag into it with a drill...you'll need to hang on for dear life, especially once the head of the lag makes contact with the wood...whereas with the impact driver you can use just your thumb and index finger and check your text messages while you do it.
model# of each tool?
Is one of them better/worse on battery consumption than the other? Or are they both about the same for that?
1/4? Yellow tag on those bits usually
Mean 5/16. Red is 1/4.
How much cost the hammer drill sir?
Does the hammer drill have an impact mode so you can compare with the same tool?
Which brand do you suggest that can be impact and hammer?
Drill or impact driver is recommended sir?
Ok so I have done the same thing with my gen 3 hammer drill and was shocked at how fast and far down it did a screw, but my question is wouldn’t it tear the threads out that the screw hole created in the wood? Maybe not? But I would think it would Create a stripped out hole if you will 🤔
That's my thinking also. I was guessing that's why he said it's not a good idea to use it on wood, but it's only a guess.
Could be worth some playing around to see what kind of holes it leaves.
@@Protoolreviews Good stuff. Thanks for the details.
@@Protoolreviews makes sense except the clutch settings on the gen 3 are too aggressive for soft wood. Whenever I am drilling into cabinets or finish work I tend to use the old ryobi with a mechanical clutch that gives much easier. Too many times if not careful on the trigger my gen 3 set on 1 will still drive a screw too far. But thank you for the response. The gen 3 is a beast
Compare impact wrench with hammer drill, which i use general home use purpose?
Thank u very much for your quick response n suggestion
what's the point of counting down to go if you don't go on go. your timing is totally inconsistent
milwaukee drill being brushless is really a beast, could beat impact driver. However, most normal brushed drills, brushed motors impact driver would perform better in terms of fastening screws
guessing here....
But I suppose you'd use a hammer drill for fast easy work drilling through concrete - but you'd use an impact driver if you wanted to screw a bolt/concrete screw directly into the concrete?
Thanks, I didn't know the impact drive could drill concrete.
Can an impact wrench drill concrete?
probably because they are a near identical mechanism. the only problem is that an impact wrench doesn’t have the right chuck to take drill bits, only sockets unless if you have an adapter
Try the same test pushing a ½" x 6" lag through 6" of wood with a ¼" pilot hole. The Impact driver will screw it in, the hammer drill wont make it.
So I dont understand if thats what the impact is designed for and the drill still beat it in driving fastners why would you use a impact then?
thanks... now i want a hammer drill 😂
Thank you
🤭🤭🤭🤭
Milwaukee makes the best tools
I am more curious on what’s going on with the siding on the house. Looks melted at the seams. Buckled out. 😂
Can i still drill a 12 mm hole using an impact drill ?
Impact driver is cheaper and you can drill into concrete with it which i didnt know. Im gonna get one
yes. In some really soft concrete. I bought impact drill for drilling in wood/metal with standart drill mode, drill in concrete with impact mode and to use as a screw driver with screw driver mode or drill mode. It drives screws into wood fasted than impact unless you use some huge screws. (like bolting some logs toghether) and also impact is very loud. If you want to buy one tool for all, buy impact drill/combo drill with something like 50 nM in 1st gear and it will do like all of home- gamer jobs without annoying neighbors.
Sir can u tell me which is the best in your opinion beetween this two drill??
@@Protoolreviews ok thank u so much sir
Hey Kenny. Would the hammer drill do just as well with bricks?
Probably better - but you can't beat SDS for any sort of masonry
If I just want to drill a screw into the wood windowsill thingy to hold up the curtain rod holder, what kind of drill would be best? 🤔 Some people on here are saying that an impact drill will strip the wood in the hole it made.
As of right now, I do not know the difference between an impact drill, rotary drill, hammer drill, or etc etc.
Can someone help me?
for attaching curtain rod on wood I would recommend impact driver for *driving* screws since you might be working in a tight area. don't use the hammer action for driving screws when using impact drill, even on hard wood. rotary drill even with no hammer action is a big no for driving screws since it has high RPM and much less control
for pre-drilling, any drills with no hammer action would do the job. make sure you use slightly smaller bit for pre drilling than the screw itself.
@@Rikardo97 So I should use an impact drill, make sure no hammering, and pre-drill first with a bit smaller than the screw...correct? 😊
Thank you.
I didn't know we were supposed to pre-drill. I thought we were supposed to hold the screw up, and drill directly into the wood till it made a hole. 😬
@@GoaWay... the hammer action on impact driver is automatic due to the increasing resistance the driver feels. can't be set to off. as I said with no hammer action, if you tend to use impact drill such Bosch GSB 180 LI to drive screws.
@@GoaWay... pre-drilling is a must to prevent cracks on wood when you're about to drive screw into soft wood, or putting screw on close-to-edge side of wood.
the hyper tough cordless 20 volt max hammer drill use it to drive nuts bolts screws
Do you need to do a count down each time ? Can't the other guy start the timer when he sees you start drilling ?
Seems Covid drove every one to shorts/underpant mode.
Do impact drills drive faster the harder you push?
When you say you have a video on that too, please link it. Don't make me search.
3:20 yo my man Clint, you good?
Hello Iam Indonesia :)
using a hammer drill for screws is completely ridiculous, it destroys any threads in the wood...of course it's fast...the screw has nothing to hold on to anymore...you might as well argue that slamming a nail inside wood is even faster
i still dont understand the purpose of a drill driver when i have an impact and a hammer drill.
You can attach wire wheels, paint mixing wheels and loads of nifty attachments, also the drill has a clutch very useful for drywall screws as an example
It's by far the most versatile power tool
Drill driver, lighter. But I don't see a point of a drill driver clutch when I have an impact driver.
@@TheFlick175 doesn't the milwaukee hammer drill ( maybe all of them ) have a normal drill driver clutch settings as well?
@@TheFlick175 so does/can my hammer drill.
Got to test Concrete. Thats the real test.
Meaning impact driver can use in concrete?? like wise hammer drill.
Why wouldn’t you use the hammer for fastening if it’s faster?
Rather buy a hammer drill because I can do all my jobs.
Better vid would be regular version vs fuel version
Why would I need bite drills? If the hammer drill does it better and faster for all applications?
My experience is that the impact driver has less slipping, which is nice when using phillipsscrews. And the hex collet makes shifting accessories ALOT faster than with a drill chuck.
Besides that, I'd say if you are just getting one of them, the hammer drill is the way to go.
How about drilling into metal??
that is what I want to know. If you use self-drilling screws on metal... which one is faster?
indonesia. follow you.
Nice vid😋😋👍