I just made a mini knife out of the same steel... M2 HSS ... Dmo5 ... This thing will ruin your belt in no time... Is a bit brittle if thin... But seriously sharp and indestructible if used properly... It will rust a bit though...
Thank you for your kind words. Yes, HSS makes excellent sushi knives, in effect. Kind of hard to grind and sharpen but the sharp edges will last forever : )
Omg.... It's a gravely sharp and masterpiece of art.. I will definitely buy this from you.. If you cannot sell this then I will demand it one more of a masterpiece from you. #respect # fan #hats off
Thank you so much for your kind words! I am afraid the knives I make in my DIYs are not for sale at the moment. They are nothing like a piece of art, though they may be good for the fun, my own satisfaction, and practical use : )
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 hey buddy,, I need the knife and I will decorate that in my showcase collections. Need your Instagram ID so that I can add it in the description of showcase details
The characteristic feature of kitchen knives of this type is a very weak concave lens on the "flat" side. You haven't shown how you made it. Does it exist on this knife?
Superb Craftsmanship and made it to perfection . You have quite a lot of tools handy and made significant investment on that which clearly shows you are a pro. I really loved the final product and I am sure that it will be a razor sharp one because of high tensile steel, but love to see that in work . Just wondering if you have ever thought of selling few for people who appreciate quality ?
Hi o just got my hands on a high speed steel saw blade. I m not too sure how to approach that one...Have you normalised it and tempered at all ? Or just machines from raw material to finished blade
R U sure you do not affect heat treatment during machining? If the answer is no, that it is really simple way to make some cool knife with great material. What about fragility of it?
Excellent job..! I like the classic look of it with just one bevel. I bet you've already sharpened to a razor grade sharpness? I made a few knives from sawblades myself and also used old files for the purpose. The trick is not to let it get so hot it changes color. Then the hardness is ruined. That knife can serve you for years to come..
@@menbocabizares433 Softer material means less wear and tear on the tools. However, then one has to harden it to a certain strength again or the knife will lose its sharpness very quickly.
These saw blades are High Speed Steel (M2/M4 more than likely). They’re used for cutting metal and they derive their name from being able to retain their full hardness from the high temperatures generated by the friction of metal on metal cutting. So there is no worry about getting the blue/purple colors here. Just have at it with a grinder like in this video, you pretty much have to anyway. There’s just no other way otherwise. Note: the alloying these steels have is what makes this possible. Molybdenum and Silicone IIRC. Where you want to avoid the colors is on something like circular or sawmill blades. Those are low alloy, carbon nickel steels for incredible durability, but will have their hardness reduced if you get them too hot. By the way, those are excellent steels as well, extremely tough and very strong (hard).
Very good job! I can't find this blade in Bahco's assorting, IS it old blade because the figures rings no bell anywhere! Do you know where I can get that blade? Regards.
Thank you for your interest. I got the Bahco blade from a friend of mine. I also tried to find the same item on ebay in vain, but I found others that look identical to mine - Sandvick 037 HSS hacksaw blades. They are 3mm thick. I guess there are cheaper alternatives on ebay as well if 2.25mm thickness is okay for you knives: 2pc NACHI all HSS Power Hacksaw Blades 575x50x2.25mm 4T x12.5. 575mm EH17 Cheers!
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 Hi and thanks for your quick reply! I have produced knives with HSS 2.25 mm with hardly desired results, but when it comes to sharpness, they were super sharp, cut 16 or 20 layers of denim effortless, cut like surgical blades on skin. Thank you for all information; keep up the good work. Regards
I appreciate your comment : ) Thanks to its designed purpose, the HSS saw blade does stand the heat generated during the cut and grind (I was careful as well not to heat it up and stress it too much during the processes). I did lots of file tests over the cut edges and ground blade to make sure the heat did not soften the steel. Cheers.
I am sorry to hear that you had problems... HSS materials are often harder than the drill bits and you cannot make holes on them unless you soften the materials by annealing them. Wrap the blade with wet towel and heat the handle stock using a torch until the part to be drilled begins to glow. Then let it cool slowly in room tmeperature. Only then will you be able to drill the handle stock. Also, there is a simpler alternative; instead of drilling holes, cut out a rectangular hole in the middle of the handle stock with an angle grinder, and use like two pins to fix the handle cover at the left and right edges of the box. Hope this helps : )
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 thank you man, i used that method of softening but when i light it with torch i put the handle in water and then start drilling, you helped me, apprecciate it
Thank you for your interest : ) Traditional handle materials for Japanese kitchen knives would be horn for the cap and magnolia for the handle, but they are not fancy... I prefer hard wood such as ebony for the cap and combination of hardwood and softwood for the handle. Hard wood with different colors and soft wood with beautiful grains may be used basically, and a waterproof finish using natural oil or resin is required to keep it dry at all times. Popular wood such as walnut, padauk, ash, olive can all make nice handles. Beware though when using hardwoods such as ebony, rosewood, wenge, cocobolo, bocote, etc. The sawdust and sand powder can cause an allergic reaction! So, be sure to wear a mask, and keep your garage well ventilated : ) Hope this helps. Cheers!
To prove my answer above, that "the steel is already hardened", I can send you a video of a file test if you want one. It is absolutely impossible to cut into this steel using a file. Cheers.
Nope. Not as long as you ruin the original composition of the blade by overheating it during the cutting and grinding. HSS was designed to withstand quite a high temperature anyway. I'd say you are in the safe side unless the blade burns in red during the cutting and grinding. Hope this helps : )
First off HSS or high speed tool steel can be many different alloys, many configurations. Obviously the alloy you used didn't soften up from being cut with an angle grinder so I'm going to guess you got lucky and obtained some high quality M4 type hot work tungsten alloy. Typical for a Swedish made steel. Some of the blades made from Chinesium are barely more than very high carbon steel with some molybdenum added to add some toughness. Just as well buy a Nicholson file. Cutting some HSS with a grinder will soften the edge back a good 1mm and it must be ground back without creating heat. If you do not have means to heat treat a knife a HSS blade can be used, but avoid cheap one, but you'd be better served to get an old Nicholson file and pop into your oven and heat up to 425 for two hours and let slow cool then do it again. Then it will be around HRC60 and easier to grind than a fully hardened file. Keeping water handy and dipping often. Whatever you do don't overheat the blade.
Thank you for your comment. The material I used is almost identical to M2 as far as I know (DMO5 or SKH-51, a bit softer than M4 but a little tougher). I love your idea of softening a high quality file a bit for the job. I might give it a try! (Do you fly fish by the way? : )
@@azman4749 yeah it really cuts fast, although hardened HSS is like impossible to grind but ceramic is good. Yesterday I ground D2 steel with Ceramic disc and it really eats away the metal
That’s amazing bro
Why did not you further heat treat it ?
Where do you get this HSS saw?
I just made a mini knife out of the same steel... M2 HSS ... Dmo5 ... This thing will ruin your belt in no time... Is a bit brittle if thin... But seriously sharp and indestructible if used properly... It will rust a bit though...
I make knife with hss saw blade all the time but never make a kitchen knife... Must try make one of these.
BTW that's really interesting video
Thank you for your kind words.
Yes, HSS makes excellent sushi knives, in effect. Kind of hard to grind and sharpen but the sharp edges will last forever : )
The sheath is weird, but a real treasure. It's sharper than some knives.
Oh man it's a master piece
Nice sharp knife for slice
Omg.... It's a gravely sharp and masterpiece of art.. I will definitely buy this from you..
If you cannot sell this then I will demand it one more of a masterpiece from you.
#respect # fan #hats off
Thank you so much for your kind words!
I am afraid the knives I make in my DIYs are not for sale at the moment.
They are nothing like a piece of art, though they may be good for the fun, my own satisfaction, and practical use : )
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 hey buddy,, I need the knife and I will decorate that in my showcase collections.
Need your Instagram ID so that I can add it in the description of showcase details
Beautiful video . Method for the works of your masterpiece is par excellence 👌💐🇮🇳🙏
Thank you for your kind words, and these --> 👌💐🇮🇳🙏. I appreciate it!
Progress of a Nation, is just because of people like you.
The characteristic feature of kitchen knives of this type is a very weak concave lens on the "flat" side. You haven't shown how you made it. Does it exist on this knife?
AWESOME MAN...GREAT CRAFTSMANSHIP
Thank you so much for your kind words. I appreciate it!
Nice job 😁Maybe a small magnet inside the sheat, would have made it stay in place? A tight fit could loosen over time you know 🤔
Superb Craftsmanship and made it to perfection . You have quite a lot of tools handy and made significant investment on that which clearly shows you are a pro. I really loved the final product and I am sure that it will be a razor sharp one because of high tensile steel, but love to see that in work . Just wondering if you have ever thought of selling few for people who appreciate quality ?
Beautiful end product.
Thank you for your kind comment. I appreciate it!
Great project. Could you drop a link and where to purchase the blade.
Nice knife
Thank you for your kind words : )
Very good work. But, Sir, can it sharpened by sandpaper? Because i heard that Highg speed steel is hard enough to sharpen.
how thick is the saw blade?
Hi o just got my hands on a high speed steel saw blade. I m not too sure how to approach that one...Have you normalised it and tempered at all ?
Or just machines from raw material to finished blade
R U sure you do not affect heat treatment during machining? If the answer is no, that it is really simple way to make some cool knife with great material. What about fragility of it?
Nice job 👍
칼집두 넘넘 이쁘다요 ^^
Could post a link where you got this saw blade? Can’t seem to find it…..
Excellent job..! I like the classic look of it with just one bevel. I bet you've already sharpened to a razor grade sharpness?
I made a few knives from sawblades myself and also used old files for the purpose. The trick is not to let it get so hot it changes color. Then the hardness is ruined. That knife can serve you for years to come..
Kalle Klæp greetings!
Have you ever hardened a knife made of sawblade again? I mean, I prefer to work with it in a softer state. thanks
@@menbocabizares433 Softer material means less wear and tear on the tools. However, then one has to harden it to a certain strength again or the knife will lose its sharpness very quickly.
These saw blades are High Speed Steel (M2/M4 more than likely). They’re used for cutting metal and they derive their name from being able to retain their full hardness from the high temperatures generated by the friction of metal on metal cutting.
So there is no worry about getting the blue/purple colors here. Just have at it with a grinder like in this video, you pretty much have to anyway. There’s just no other way otherwise.
Note: the alloying these steels have is what makes this possible. Molybdenum and Silicone IIRC.
Where you want to avoid the colors is on something like circular or sawmill blades. Those are low alloy, carbon nickel steels for incredible durability, but will have their hardness reduced if you get them too hot. By the way, those are excellent steels as well, extremely tough and very strong (hard).
Nice work. Btw may i ask if you ship the saw bade worldwide?
Excelente trabajo
Good job
Thank you!
In Russia we used saw to make shoemaker knives
And I know people still do for extreme sharpness and good edge holding capabilities.
Thank you for your comment : )
Whay not hardening ?
Linda faca! Trabalho de Mestre Cuteleiro. Parabéns! 👍🇧🇷
Where I can get this Swedish HSS Saw Blade?
Kalau pakai bahan itu apakah masih ada proses harden ?
Nice
Thank you : )
👍five stars🍾👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks a lot for your generous rating ; )
Bonito trabajo. Usando este material ¿ no es necesario el temple?
Thank you for your interest.
No heat treating is required. The material (hss saw blade) is already hard enough at HRC 62 to 64.
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 GRACIAS 👍
Hay lắm !.
Very good job!
I can't find this blade in Bahco's assorting, IS it old blade because the figures rings no bell anywhere! Do you know where I can get that blade? Regards.
Thank you for your interest.
I got the Bahco blade from a friend of mine. I also tried to find the same item on ebay in vain, but I found others that look identical to mine - Sandvick 037 HSS hacksaw blades. They are 3mm thick.
I guess there are cheaper alternatives on ebay as well if 2.25mm thickness is okay for you knives:
2pc NACHI all HSS Power Hacksaw Blades 575x50x2.25mm 4T x12.5. 575mm EH17
Cheers!
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866
Hi and thanks for your quick reply!
I have produced knives with HSS 2.25 mm with hardly desired results, but when it comes to sharpness, they were super sharp, cut 16 or 20 layers of denim effortless, cut like surgical blades on skin.
Thank you for all information; keep up the good work.
Regards
Pretty cool video but you might have to retemper the blade.
I appreciate your comment : )
Thanks to its designed purpose, the HSS saw blade does stand the heat generated during the cut and grind (I was careful as well not to heat it up and stress it too much during the processes).
I did lots of file tests over the cut edges and ground blade to make sure the heat did not soften the steel.
Cheers.
I made knife from high quality hss today and i got serious problems with drilling holes in it for handle
I am sorry to hear that you had problems... HSS materials are often harder than the drill bits and you cannot make holes on them unless you soften the materials by annealing them. Wrap the blade with wet towel and heat the handle stock using a torch until the part to be drilled begins to glow. Then let it cool slowly in room tmeperature. Only then will you be able to drill the handle stock. Also, there is a simpler alternative; instead of drilling holes, cut out a rectangular hole in the middle of the handle stock with an angle grinder, and use like two pins to fix the handle cover at the left and right edges of the box. Hope this helps : )
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 thank you man, i used that method of softening but when i light it with torch i put the handle in water and then start drilling, you helped me, apprecciate it
Nice work👍🏼
what basic materials I can use for Handle of the knife?
Thank you for your interest : )
Traditional handle materials for Japanese kitchen knives would be horn for the cap and magnolia for the handle, but they are not fancy...
I prefer hard wood such as ebony for the cap and combination of hardwood and softwood for the handle. Hard wood with different colors and soft wood with beautiful grains may be used basically, and a waterproof finish using natural oil or resin is required to keep it dry at all times.
Popular wood such as walnut, padauk, ash, olive can all make nice handles. Beware though when using hardwoods such as ebony, rosewood, wenge, cocobolo, bocote, etc. The sawdust and sand powder can cause an allergic reaction! So, be sure to wear a mask, and keep your garage well ventilated : )
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 thank you so much! Really appreciate it🙏😇
I hope you make naruto's kunai with the other half
Another time i recomend you to aneal it firstly. Another case you should know steel carakteristic to avoiding fail heat treatment
You need very accurate temprature reading to heat treat a HSS. Otherwise it can easily crack. That saw blade do not need hardening process.
The steel isn't hardened. Saw blades are only hardened at the teeth.
I know it's true with some blades but this one is not the case. Give it a try yourself then you'll know.
Cheers.
To prove my answer above, that "the steel is already hardened", I can send you a video of a file test if you want one. It is absolutely impossible to cut into this steel using a file.
Cheers.
You can almost buy a quality knife for the price of that giant HSS power hacksaw blade. But, why let someone else have all the fun?
Thank you for your comment, Bob. You've got a point there. (Great insight ; )
Well why not just get a blunt blade, workshops throw away them.
Masih ada barang ini
no heat treatment needed?
Nope. Not as long as you ruin the original composition of the blade by overheating it during the cutting and grinding. HSS was designed to withstand quite a high temperature anyway. I'd say you are in the safe side unless the blade burns in red during the cutting and grinding. Hope this helps : )
DIY DOROCO - Japanese Chef Knife Project amazing! Thank you so much for replying
First off HSS or high speed tool steel can be many different alloys, many configurations. Obviously the alloy you used didn't soften up from being cut with an angle grinder so I'm going to guess you got lucky and obtained some high quality M4 type hot work tungsten alloy. Typical for a Swedish made steel. Some of the blades made from Chinesium are barely more than very high carbon steel with some molybdenum added to add some toughness. Just as well buy a Nicholson file. Cutting some HSS with a grinder will soften the edge back a good 1mm and it must be ground back without creating heat.
If you do not have means to heat treat a knife a HSS blade can be used, but avoid cheap one, but you'd be better served to get an old Nicholson file and pop into your oven and heat up to 425 for two hours and let slow cool then do it again. Then it will be around HRC60 and easier to grind than a fully hardened file. Keeping water handy and dipping often. Whatever you do don't overheat the blade.
Thank you for your comment. The material I used is almost identical to M2 as far as I know (DMO5 or SKH-51, a bit softer than M4 but a little tougher). I love your idea of softening a high quality file a bit for the job. I might give it a try! (Do you fly fish by the way? : )
@@jihoonpark5120 Used too in the High Sierra and Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina.
Братуха,ржаветь будет на кухне
👍👍👍
うらすき はどこだ？
Where can i get the grind jig?
Thank you for your interest.
I made the jig myself : )
@@diydoroco-japanesechefknif7866 how did you make the jig to get the right angles
Hey
Hey t
La lame est trop trop trop fragile il se casse facilement
The music is distracting me.
혹시 달인이신가요?
과찬이십니다 : ) 서투른 영상에 관심을 가져 주셔서 감사합니다!
Handal is very poor
Nice work. I have a hss blade, but the standard grinding wheel is very slow, what should I use?
Use silicon carbide drinding wheel.
@@azman4749 I got 3M Cubitron II, it's ceramic and cuts faster. Couldn't get silicon Carbide
@@hoorpari3688 ceramic is better than silicon carbide
@@azman4749 yeah it really cuts fast, although hardened HSS is like impossible to grind but ceramic is good. Yesterday I ground D2 steel with Ceramic disc and it really eats away the metal