2psi Oil Pressure. Is My 650HP Turbo M50 COOKED??
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- čas přidán 18. 03. 2024
- I've been hiding the fact that I've always had pretty low oil pressure, but once it went from 6psi to 2psi. It was no longer avoidable. But no matter what, at the end of the day, everything is fixable!
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Lets goooooo i can eat my food now
*didn’t eat food since his last upload*
Brotherman been waiting
hey man! Before you order a new oilpump check your oilpressure gage, so it's not just the sensor that is broken.
Also try another oil, we uses a 10w60 in my turbo m50b30.
That engine would be knocking if it was at zero PSI.
Yeah it's a glowshift gauge, not exactly known for their accuracy or quality. I'd definitely check the sender before anything else/ hookup a mechanical gauge and verify the reading
Had the same gauges in my Volvo and the sensor was bad. When hot it would show almost 0 psi and stop reacting to rpm. It would work more like a temp sensor 😂
yo the reflection of you just staring into the oil drain pan had me crying 🤣
I didn't even notice lol
You're a better man than me for admitting to reusing the oil. I mean, I'd do it too, I just couldn't admit it on camera lmao.
You know that you can measure depth with the back of the caliper? Is way more precise than the way you have done it. Plus change the oil pressure sensor, is very strange that type of readings, it can not be machanical issue when sometimes it have good and than bad oil pressure. Keep good working
Looseness that you’re getting from your steering shaft is the u-joint rubber that deteriorates over time. Eventually it will come apart completely. Upgraded to a e34 coupler which is completely metal.
5w30 is too light of a weight oil for turbo m50 engines. Throw some 20w50 VR1 in the car. Should improve oil pressure.
Check the mechanical oil guage. Could be off. Digital seem to be a little bit more accurate.
Am I the only one who geeked out at him pressing off the oil pump rotor? 😂😂 Its funny cuz I woulda did the same damn shit prolly 🤣
shit bro i saw a liveleak logo appear on my screen
Hey Joel did you check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge buddy, sometimes these m54 have bad sensors and possibly you have a faulty gauge. I also recommend a thicker oil and if this doesn’t work something can be wrong with your plunder and it’s getting stuck in the valve.
most likely its because your using 5w30 on a built engine with loose tolerances. you def should use 10w60 specially if your always ripping on it.
theres alot of info online about this topic. almost any built engine ou normal rebuilt engine should use heavier oil. try it :)
Had the same thought. I'd throw the 5w40 in if it was just going to sit in the garage during winter. But for street and track use I'd definitely go with at least a 10W40 or preferably 15w50/10w60 since it's going to see track use and heavy ethanol content. High ZDP content too if you don't have cats or have quality hfc
10-60 has no point unless you live in a +60 degrees C environment. Some cheapo drift guys run 10-60 thinking it helps, but irl it just causes strain on the already weak oilpump shaft........... 5-40 it needs. 5-30 is all about efficiency.... Piston oil squirters have a check ball, they should only be squirting above a certain pressure. Rlly common failure, but irl it does not cause problems.
It would really be a good idea to learn how to properly choose an oil, and what do the numbers mean before recommending others oils... Mb look into how does a manufacturer decide if an engine needs 0-30 or 10-60...... 10-60 is just a cheap motocross oil, it doesnt have no real additive package. It will make piston rings sticky in no time. Why dont we just use straight up gear oil then? If thicker is better.... How that 10w60 gonna flow through a
@@csutakgergo5279 if don't really know how oil works, pls don't miss inform people
@@csutakgergo5279 Damn you're a special-special kind of retard. 10-60 is a viscosity spec, it's tells nothing about the quality of the oil. And it it has also nothing to do with "living in a 60 C+ environment". Yes 5-40 is better then 5-30 for him to run but for what he is using it for 10-60 will probably be better given the capability at the highest temps. Stop spreading misinformation.
It's a GlowShift gauge, how do you know it's even accurate?
was gonna say the same😂
Please just hire me as your welder 🤔 I don't live far and I'm certified 😂
Lmaooo them welds at the top was hideous 😂😂😂😂 no offense
@@joshmaitie5954 don’t get me wrong welding cast aluminum is never fun… but those… 🫣
@@joshmaitie5954 Bmw oil pans are terrible to weld, even if you're an experienced welder
I’d hookup a different oil pressure gauge first just to make sure it’s not the gauge bro. Better than throwing $600 at a new pump when the old one might be fine
for others doing E46 control arm bushings,
use DISHSOAP not grease. If you drift, go
condor. If you daily, and want a softer ride keep
factory bushings. One last thing, usually you check the rear
cap for scoring on these engines as thats indeed where most the heat stays
and 9x10 youll find thats usually your dead cylinder first.
One day, Joel is going to change the E30 interior... one day... 😂
And fix his tach 😂
been looking forward to this video!
Yet another upload from the goat 🐐
I always ran 15W50 in my last turbo M50. I was on the stock bottom end though, never built that motor.
was laughing my ass off at 14:30 bro lmao keep it up man i tell everyone ik about your vids need you to blow up so you can keep going
I don't think you replaced them in your rebuild videos, so it might be your oil squirters (p/n 11421730619) since these are pretty common to fail over time in m5X/s5X
They have a check valve that will be closed at idle in order to increase oil pressure as the pistons don't need the cooling when the engine is idling. It could be that some/all of your squirter check valves are intermittently becoming stuck open which would result in the weird fluctuations of oil pressure at different times.
These are under the main bearings, so a big pain in the ass to replace since it's basically a full rebuild just to replace the squirters.
Seems like a lot of people say the low pressure at idle isn't a big deal, and considering what it takes to replace the squirters, you might just want to run it until it blows and do a full rebuild anyway
^ This, they’re half the cost of a new oil pump and at least 80% of all oil squirters I’ve ever pulled out of original engines are toast, you can blow straight through them with your mouth. I haven’t heard of anyone talking about an oil pump failure unless it’s the shaft snapping (old chain and sprocket) or the nut backing off, I think if they’re replaced by people it’s usually unnecessary ‘peace of mind’.
Qualifying time Joel! Hoping another vid drops soon.
Joel you need at least 500,000 subscribers
Put 15w50 in that thing. My S52 loves it
Use marval mystery oil before your next oil change to remove the varnish inside the motor. Hence sticking pressure relief valve
Car is so dialed now, can’t wait to see some track or drift footage.
Make sure you clean the windshield before you film on track👌🏼
Also enjoy the doordash videos
Idk if your still on e85 but depending on how long you go between oil changes (I do mine every 1500 miles) the ethanol will thin out your oil too
Hey joel , you can raise oil pressure by adding 2 washer before the pressure relief valve . and add 1.8 t chain tensioner to fixe the chain issue .
Time for a new oil pump. Damn your car sounds so goood!!!
The sunglasses got me good
Aye you’re welcome for the rod cap trick ;)
hey joel, have you tried using a thicker and more heat resistant oil?
i guess 5w30 is just the wrong oil for such a built turbo engine, i would reccomend 10w60 instead.
greetings from germany, keep up the great videos✌️
I have switched to 10w60 from 5w40 just last weekend. N54 single turbo, e85 at 650hp. Let's see how it goes, so far, it sounds much quieter than the 5w40...
Get some Rotella 15w40 diesel oil. A lot of turbo m52 people use it and it’s good on oil pressure.
Try a mechanical gauge to start, and low idle oilpressure, usually means bad bearing somewhere, pressure relief only controls maximum oil pressure, oil pressures created by all the restrictions in the system. Either way, did u check all bearings? or just the one rod?
I would 1000% verify the digital gauge with a manual one. It could have a loose connection or something.
I know you don't wanna go back in there dog... but you need an oil pump tensioner for sureeee. The chain slack is what kills those pumps, either replace the chain or get a tensioner bro
iirc, the chain should have about 6mm of movement side to side for an M50 oil pump. If it's within that spec, the pump should last just fine. But that being said, Joel's chain is defo too loose
I am a "bar" man so the advice is to follow th general rule of thumb: as long as Your engine have a 1 bar of pressure per every 1k of rpm - its fine.
An idle is not that significant: You can have a 0.2-0.3 bar of pressure on idle - and thats still fine if pressure is still provided on revs.
Ill never get my car done, unless I had a friend like Joel
do include it in a video, its nice to see you fix it.
I have the same glowshift gauge in my m50 and i had 7psi at idle, but i would test more accurate gauge before buying brand new pump
ON A TUESDAY lets goo
Change the oil first and check your gauge. Before you spend a load on a pump
I’ve been thinking about this for days now. You really shouldn’t pour oil back into a car that has problems. You really shouldn’t ever do it. There is stuff in the oil pan that needs to stay on that side of the filter and at the bottom of the pan. There are metal bits and sludge and other nastiness that you just poured back into the top of your beautiful stressed out engine. I really hope it doesn’t make things worse. Put some fresh racing oil in it. It’s a race car, the tolerances are looser in spots and tighter in others. Spend the $65 for some redline 5w-50 and your pressure will come up and the motor will last longer or go with the race oil and just change it often.
✌️
In my opinion, try an oil change with 5w-40 first and see if that fixes it, then check the oil pressure sensor with a dipstick. if it doesn't help, get a second-hand oil pump and see if there will be a change, if not, better get a new one.
Go for Agip Racing 10w60, You need thicker oil for that engine. Castrol and motul 10w60 is also good.
Go Valvoline VR1 20w50 or 10w60 thats the sauce.
either oil squirters are sticking open at idle, or your pressure regulator valve is sticking open slightly at idle.
Have you looked into rotella t6? Forums say they got good results from it.
Built motors have looser tolerances and run thicker oil. Redline 10w-40 at the minimum but 50 or 60 is very common. Changing the oil is a lot cheaper than a new pump.
Have you gotten a new camera? The quality of the video looks very good or maybe it’s just because of the body kit and how clean everything it now.
Could it have been that u used brake clean on the pump when you build the engine? M539 restorations had a simular problem with that valve when trying to clean it with brake clean. It makes it basically “rust” together
you really need to take an oil sample, that trail when stirring is not from the oils mixing. The oils mix almost instantly and gets to a homogenous state when you start the car after an oil change so the trails are particles, but hard to say from what.
Joel next time installing bushings use the lollipop like a hammer and smack the bushing against the table BAP BAP BAP BAP the bushing seats :D
Yooooo i just noticed you got an CSRT4 😮 im a new sub haha i have one too!
Tf are those welds on the baffle pan 🙁
Mark your steering coupler before removal
2:40 get a oil sample analysis done
my turbo e36 with 5w40 idles at 7psi.. id say this is completely normal. idle has no load... i wouldnt be worried about this.
The play in steering coupler may be the guibo as its rubber and like all guibo needs to be changed.
low oil pressure could also be because you are using the wrong weight oil. I use 10w50 on my turbo m50b30
This is clearly the case, 5w30 is for colder weather and daily, easy driving... 5w40 or if u go tracking some people even use 50-60
Just if u put w50-60 never abuse your engine until its fully warm.
THERES 3 OIL PUMPS. NON VANOS IS SMALLEST. SINGLE VANOS IS A BIGGER IMPELLER. M54 IS THE BIGGEST IMPELLER FOR DUAL VANOS. (Why was your oil so airated ? I never have seen bubbles like that in my oil. ) The m54 pump sits a little taller so you have to modify the mounting flanges by removing material that touch the block if you want to run a m54 pump on a single vanos motor. I run a stock s52 pump on my s52 turbo. (Built) i uee the acillies pump , and shella rotella 15 w 50 mixed with 10 /40 (t6 rotella) summer is mostly 15 50 , winter i mix in more 10 40. Ruel of thumb is 10 psi pressure per 1000 rpm ... so 10 or more at idol. I sit at 12 to 15 psi at idol fully warm. Glow shift is crap. Buy a innovative pressure + temp gauge , it even has warning lights. P.s. your oil chain looked loose. ( i use iwis tho) p.p.s, if you use a stock pcv system your oil cap is a vacum leak. Ditch the stock pcv
Hopefully you'll do a doordash vid soon. They're super entertaining
i commend you putting that pan in by yourself. Im on M54, when I did mine i had to phone a friend to help me hold it in place XD
That oil pressure is perfectly normal on a hot idle with5-30 especially.. We live in a colder zone and we still use 5-40 on cars that have heavy right legged owners. 5-30 is an efficient oil, never designed to go in an m52 originally. Your issue is 5-30 clearly, and it does look like you have verry fine metallic powder in your oil. Like a metallic paint. The hotter it gets the thinner the oil will be so the pressure. If you replace your pump, it wont fix anything. Whoever told you the bs with the scored oilpump rotor, lied to you big time, he has no clue, how an oil pump actually works....
Try changing the oil pressure sensor or maybe just test with an analog one to see if the sensor is the issue?
New oil pump!
m50 need 10w40 before you change the pump replace the oil filter housing it also has a relief valve
i have the same problem with 5w40 motul after 3000 miles when engine is hot the pressure goes down to 6 psi , next time i will try with 5w50 semi synthetic
It could be that shitty gloshift gauge too. check your pressure with a different gauge before doing the pump
I almost died watching him using the caliper to measure the distance...
1st check the senzor can be bad (happaned to me) 2nd put 10w60 into it! :D I use it in my drift car and change it every 3000km…just to make sure the engine is happy
yeah IDK no oil pressure is not likely to be the pump, those last forever ever, but you can try that for sure as they are not super expensive. I would bet you have a main or rod bearing issue
Not only would I never trust a glowshift gauge, but also 5w30 is thin for an M50, and even more so for a built turbo one that has looser tolerance. Even for a fully stock na one, 10w40 is the right oil, you could go even 10w50 on a built engine that gets high oil temps and has loose clearances.
Also sometimes just different brand even same thickness can help a LOT. I don't think those small ass scratches are doing anything, I've seen M5x with pumps that looked like they went to war and had fine oil pressure.
bro link me to the parts for the o ring, spring, and shaft for the oil pump. keep up the good videos
i'll take that as a no...
Before you tear into the engine again, check the oil pressure with a different gauge. Make sure its not the original gauge reading incorrectly first!!!!
I NEED those sun glasses drop the name cmon 😂
have a haircut bro 😂😂
Can you change Rod Bearings the same way you simply took them out to check them?
never checked the filter.
I had only a few psi of oil pressure at hot idle, but my Glyco rod bearing were munted. I ended up installing a modified M52 oil pump that has about 25% more rotor area with a custom oil pump shaft, replaced the rod bearings, and removed the piston oil squirters. Oil pressure at idle is fine now with a 10W40 oil.
15-40 t6 rotella is the sauce for me (vegas heat) 20 psi oil idle
No downfall of removing squirters? What’s the gain? More pressure at the pump?
@@stephanoz1374
Many tuners will remove oil jets on built motors, others feel they must be present. Millions of motors have done just fine over the years without these things, but you'd have to ask, well, why did BMW install them then? Good question, but for a modest HP motor such as the stock M50, the only reason I can fathom is to keep the pistons cooler than they would otherwise be. With 10:1 compression ratio, cooler pistons may have assisted it being able to run low octane fuel.
I am running forged JE 8.5:1 pistons in the M50B28 turbo. The debate of forged pistons needing oil jets has been hashed out a million times over the years.
The guy that prompted me to remove the jets is running 45psi + into his M50 and revving to 9000rpm, drag racing and road driven. He has no issues with his and I don't expect to see any issues with my much more modest application.
@@stephanoz1374
oh, I missed a part of the question.
Yes, just more pressure. The oil jets actually have check valves in them that are supposed to stop oil flowing through them at idle (low pressure), but these do fail. I am hot idle around 15psi now on 40 weight oil. I haven't tried anything thicker as yet.
Have you tried another gauge or sensor? Engine would have blown by now if it was that low I think
you should verify the reading with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, or did you do it already?
The play in the steering shaft might be the rubber coupling or the swivel joint. 4:19
Also mark the spline shaft so you get the steering shaft back in straight.
Joel it would make sense why you have lower oil pressure since u put thinner oil in
u gotta run that 10W60
next time try heating it up a little bit before pressing it off. Should come off much easier
“This looks so wrong on camera” proceeds anyways
-Joel
Bro please install another oil pressure gauge and sensor and test it
Check valve on the oil filter housing. Oil is draining from the filter too fast.
5w30 seems super thin for a built M5x, even in my basic NA M52 build I'm running 10w40.
THAT INTEO 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Go for 10w60 next time
7 psi (0,5 bar) is a good pressure for m50 engine at idle . The manual tells it.
I was at the track Saturday were u on the road course or the smaller track in the back ?
More like Garbagistic🤣
so true i’ve gotten a few parts and it’s all garbage, sucks because they’re local to me
What oil pump control valve did you use I see it’s metal and not plastic
for all my bmw owners out there… i’m torn between getting a e90 335i or a first gen is300. i want a reliable daily that make around 500hp and i’ll do all the work myself i just need an opinion on which is better from experience
5w30 for stock Hondas. Cmon
i have the same engine and have been looking for an this lil pans for years do you know where i could get one or the part number so i could see if bmw had one thank you.
Beautiful car
You're killing me with how you measure with those calipers man! There's intentionally a ledge on the back of it so you can measure surface to surface and not have to guestimate. Great work though!
try w50 or w60 oil instead, i see these low pressures on almost all m5x engines on the dyno.
0:45 you funny 😂 last video you was baked asf
Do you by any chance watch M539? Your torque sequences remind me of him.