The electric Canons can go to ISO 6, then EC -2 to 1.5. Stick on a f/1.2 L to give you the best chance to handhold with autofocus. I have a large roll of 5076, ektachrome dup film. with ISO ~20. Similar challenges. I use 85 filters to help counter some of the blue.
it'd be cool to see a shot of some regular c-41 film using this. Kinda like a contact sheet, just to see how much of the orange mask it reverses. idk maybe that's something for me to try out in future
I want to use it to make slides from my favorite negatives. I think that would be a fun project and I love projecting the slides that I have. I was looking for someone who spooled down Kodak 2383 print film, but I've seen some others sell that on eBay in 135. Though, I think I'll give FPP Low ISO a shot first.
I shot a roll of this like a week ago in my EOS3. Had to meter with my lightmeter app on my android (metered at iso 1). Looots of colour correction in vuescan to get rid of the blue cast but I actually like my end results.
If you want a plain standardized way if looking at a film handles colors, why not just get a color card Kodak Gray Card Plus) and shoot it in various lighting?
I do own a colour card now, but only have 5500 K lighting. I'm more interested in how things look in the real world and showing people what they can expect from these weird films! I do plan to use the colour card for some more direct comparisons between films in the future though to show specifically what's different (or not) in their colour rendering.
Ohhh gotcha. That could be an idea down the line when I can more easily justify dedicating a few shots per roll to that (especially in 120). Cheers! :)
Slightly unrelated, but a comment on the latitude of Ektar. I was on vacation in Colorado and was taking lots of pictures, ran some Portra 400 then switched to Ektar but left the camera's ISO at 400. Found my mistake when I took out the roll of film, so I noted to push it two stops in development. Anyway, the negs came out YELLOW and Colorado looked like a purple version of Mars...
Yeah, it's surprising how poor it looks pushed 2+ stops. I know a few people who have tried to push it to 400 with similarly poor results, and one friend accidentally shot some at 3200. Looks like an abstract still from a mind-meld episode in a sci-fi show.
Try using a really big flash with this stock. It's balanced to about 2000K. You'll be able to recover/scan much more of the color gamut if you add some 85B warming filters
I've been meaning to try that with one of my thyristor flashes at max power, just by cracking the aperture several stops wider than it recommends. I don't have a super powerful flash that suits my older cameras just yet but I'll keep that in mind, thank you!
I am thinking of trying this film with an 85B filter and pink filter stacked on top of each other to see if a Rose gold filtration would give this film a more normalized colour cast. Effectively I would be losing two stops of light if my estimation is correct. Now if I were to try this at the brightest time of the day, on a tripod, would I have enough light to shoot portraits? Or would the exposure time be too long for the person to remain sharp?
I have actually played around with this! You don't need the pink filter - an 85B filter is more than enough in combination with +2 stops of light (ISO / EI 0.375). You'd be talking aboutf 1/60th at f/1.4 on a really bright day so it should be workable for a model if you explain the brief! It's quite grim here in Ireland this morning and I'd need to shoot at 1/4 to get the same exposure and that wouldn't work.
@@Shaka1277Excellent thank you. The reason I initially thought to include the Pink filter was when I used Vision 3 200 tungsten film with the 85B filter I found while it corrected for the blue, a green cast remained in the photo scan I got back from the lab. The next time I shot it I used the combination of the two filters and the scans came back normal looking. I just assumed that green cast would be present on this film too, but it sounds like I should be good to go with just the 85B.
It should be good. The overall tonality of the film actually changes wildly with overexposure (regardless of any filter), leaning warmer and less blue-green as you expose it more. I've never seen such a drastic change when bracketing!
The electric Canons can go to ISO 6, then EC -2 to 1.5. Stick on a f/1.2 L to give you the best chance to handhold with autofocus. I have a large roll of 5076, ektachrome dup film. with ISO ~20. Similar challenges. I use 85 filters to help counter some of the blue.
it'd be cool to see a shot of some regular c-41 film using this. Kinda like a contact sheet, just to see how much of the orange mask it reverses. idk maybe that's something for me to try out in future
I want to use it to make slides from my favorite negatives. I think that would be a fun project and I love projecting the slides that I have. I was looking for someone who spooled down Kodak 2383 print film, but I've seen some others sell that on eBay in 135. Though, I think I'll give FPP Low ISO a shot first.
I have no idea of how to practically go about this so if you do, I'd be interested to see the results!
I shot a roll of this like a week ago in my EOS3. Had to meter with my lightmeter app on my android (metered at iso 1). Looots of colour correction in vuescan to get rid of the blue cast but I actually like my end results.
If you want a plain standardized way if looking at a film handles colors, why not just get a color card Kodak Gray Card Plus) and shoot it in various lighting?
I do own a colour card now, but only have 5500 K lighting. I'm more interested in how things look in the real world and showing people what they can expect from these weird films! I do plan to use the colour card for some more direct comparisons between films in the future though to show specifically what's different (or not) in their colour rendering.
@@Shaka1277 I meant to suggest that you shoot the color card in various real-world lightings. :)
Ohhh gotcha. That could be an idea down the line when I can more easily justify dedicating a few shots per roll to that (especially in 120). Cheers! :)
Slightly unrelated, but a comment on the latitude of Ektar. I was on vacation in Colorado and was taking lots of pictures, ran some Portra 400 then switched to Ektar but left the camera's ISO at 400. Found my mistake when I took out the roll of film, so I noted to push it two stops in development. Anyway, the negs came out YELLOW and Colorado looked like a purple version of Mars...
Yeah, it's surprising how poor it looks pushed 2+ stops. I know a few people who have tried to push it to 400 with similarly poor results, and one friend accidentally shot some at 3200. Looks like an abstract still from a mind-meld episode in a sci-fi show.
Try using a really big flash with this stock. It's balanced to about 2000K. You'll be able to recover/scan much more of the color gamut if you add some 85B warming filters
I've been meaning to try that with one of my thyristor flashes at max power, just by cracking the aperture several stops wider than it recommends. I don't have a super powerful flash that suits my older cameras just yet but I'll keep that in mind, thank you!
I am thinking of trying this film with an 85B filter and pink filter stacked on top of each other to see if a Rose gold filtration would give this film a more normalized colour cast. Effectively I would be losing two stops of light if my estimation is correct. Now if I were to try this at the brightest time of the day, on a tripod, would I have enough light to shoot portraits? Or would the exposure time be too long for the person to remain sharp?
I have actually played around with this! You don't need the pink filter - an 85B filter is more than enough in combination with +2 stops of light (ISO / EI 0.375).
You'd be talking aboutf 1/60th at f/1.4 on a really bright day so it should be workable for a model if you explain the brief! It's quite grim here in Ireland this morning and I'd need to shoot at 1/4 to get the same exposure and that wouldn't work.
@@Shaka1277Excellent thank you. The reason I initially thought to include the Pink filter was when I used Vision 3 200 tungsten film with the 85B filter I found while it corrected for the blue, a green cast remained in the photo scan I got back from the lab.
The next time I shot it I used the combination of the two filters and the scans came back normal looking. I just assumed that green cast would be present on this film too, but it sounds like I should be good to go with just the 85B.
It should be good. The overall tonality of the film actually changes wildly with overexposure (regardless of any filter), leaning warmer and less blue-green as you expose it more. I've never seen such a drastic change when bracketing!