WOW!!!!!! I was getting ready to throw this thing away....... I have had it sitting in my garage ready for the dump for almost a year before deciding to try once more to fix it. I found this video by accident, but, I am glad I did!! Thank you!
Permanent fix is the C8 capacitor is bad. 25v 47uf cap. If that doesn’t work, replace the cap right by the top plug he pulls out. Forget the voltage / uf. You can buy a cap kit online and a solder iron with some solder. Good luck. Max 2 caps replaced and it will be fixed permanently.
I had done this about a month ago and it did work for about a day. I was able to power cycle it as well and reliably, the cooler would work fine. The issue still seems to come back no matter what. Sometimes a day, sometimes a few minutes. Sometimes, leaving negative disconnected for 3 hours and reconnecting doesn't work at all. Apparently, this can be caused by the tilt sensor and various other things not related to this.
Tried this on a Wine Enthusiast double zone fridge where the top fan was no longer spinning up. I unplugged the red and black (they are joined together) and the top fan immediately kicked in, though the green light flickered and crackled. Popping the black and red wires back in though resulted in the fan going dead again, and the beeping soon returned. Didn't matter if I left it unplugged for 1 minute, 15 minutes, or 30 minutes--the fan would always stop again once it was reconnected. Going to look into replacing the board I suppose?
I presume it's not safe to leave the fan jump started, so I've just unplugged the whole fridge at this point. I should add that I tried plugging the non working fan into the board of the working fan and it worked fine there, which is what lead me to believe the board itself is a problem.
@@oldpantsnewjersey I just tried it on my WE double zone and it worked, so far. I disconnected just the black lead as in the video, and ran for only 10 minutes before reconnecting. I guess I'll see how long it lasts.
@@josephkim6678 Oh, as a follow-up, I ended up replacing the C8 capacitor and that got the fans working again, though I'm not positive the temperature control is working 100%
WOW!!!!!! I was getting ready to throw this thing away....... I have had it sitting in my garage ready for the dump for almost a year before deciding to try once more to fix it. I found this video by accident, but, I am glad I did!!
Thank you!
Thank you for publishing this. Had the same issue and this worked like a charm! Thx again!!
Permanent fix is the C8 capacitor is bad. 25v 47uf cap. If that doesn’t work, replace the cap right by the top plug he pulls out. Forget the voltage / uf. You can buy a cap kit online and a solder iron with some solder. Good luck.
Max 2 caps replaced and it will be fixed permanently.
This fix worked for me. Had to come back to review and find this post. Thanks Again.
Can't hear what you're saying and can't see what you did.
Hello! I have the same wine cooler and the same problem. But I can hear well what you did to fix it.
Eyy It worked! Thank you
I had done this about a month ago and it did work for about a day. I was able to power cycle it as well and reliably, the cooler would work fine. The issue still seems to come back no matter what. Sometimes a day, sometimes a few minutes. Sometimes, leaving negative disconnected for 3 hours and reconnecting doesn't work at all. Apparently, this can be caused by the tilt sensor and various other things not related to this.
How long should it take to get cold
Hello are you my subscriber
Tried this on a Wine Enthusiast double zone fridge where the top fan was no longer spinning up. I unplugged the red and black (they are joined together) and the top fan immediately kicked in, though the green light flickered and crackled. Popping the black and red wires back in though resulted in the fan going dead again, and the beeping soon returned. Didn't matter if I left it unplugged for 1 minute, 15 minutes, or 30 minutes--the fan would always stop again once it was reconnected.
Going to look into replacing the board I suppose?
I presume it's not safe to leave the fan jump started, so I've just unplugged the whole fridge at this point.
I should add that I tried plugging the non working fan into the board of the working fan and it worked fine there, which is what lead me to believe the board itself is a problem.
@@oldpantsnewjersey I just tried it on my WE double zone and it worked, so far. I disconnected just the black lead as in the video, and ran for only 10 minutes before reconnecting. I guess I'll see how long it lasts.
@@josephkim6678 Oh, as a follow-up, I ended up replacing the C8 capacitor and that got the fans working again, though I'm not positive the temperature control is working 100%
Thx for subscribing to my channel almost to a 100 subs