Alternative Photography - VanDyke Brown with UV LED Box
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- As part of a series on Alternative Photography, this week I'm covering the basic of Van Dyke Brown process.
Get up and going with Alternative Photography - the Van Dyke printing process with a homemade UV LED box. In video I explain how to get the perfect print and the perfect exposure every time with consistency. I explain the chemicals needed for the process and the recipe. I go into making your own fixer for Van Dyke Brown. At the end of the video I show you the results and the VDB print.
More on this process on my blog, which includes recipes, tips and examples
gavinlyons.pho...
Strip Test Page can be downloaded from the UV LED Box instructions
gavinlyons.pho...
If you like to support my channel, please use the amazon link below
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VDB Chemicals
Some kit are available on Ebay though
Cyanotype Chemicals
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A4 Inkjet Transparencies for Digital Negatives
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A4 Laser Transparencies for Digital Negatives
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OR
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Thank You!!!
Equipment used in this video
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Fujifilm X-H1
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Fujifilm XF16mm ƒ/1.4
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Rode USB
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UV LED Box
#shootfilm #filmphotography
@Gavin Lyons thanks for the video, great job! I am going to have a go on alternative processes. I just started my own CZcams channel dedicated to film photography.
It's fun starting a CZcams Channel the film community are you really nice folks!
@@GavinLyonsCreates it's good to share knowledge and learn from others as well! I am planning doing some filming while printing in my darkroom and when taking my medium and large format cameras to the field.
I have 2 questions
1. Can it be done in the sun light or does it have to be Uv box ?
2. Once u have 3 parts are they mixed together in equal proportion ?
Thank you for the introduction, I will surely want to try this sometime. I've already experimented with the "new cyanotype" (using oxalate, not citrate) and a little with anthotypes, but I've done no alternative photo for a few years now. Not even developed a single roll of film in almost 3 years. But I think the time is coming for me to pick up the chemicals (and cameras) again.
Would you consider making a video about negatives for alternative processes?
Was this Dr. Mike Ware's version ? I have the chemical but yet to mix them.
You like a video on making the negatives digital - I hope ? (Did make glass negatives but Borut Peterln is an expert on that). But I could put together a workflow of converting a image to negative for Cyanotype.
How's the results for "the new cyanotype" I've never tried it
@@GavinLyonsCreates I am sorry the reply took 9 months, I'm not used to checking youtube notifications.
Yes, I mean Mike Ware's process. It is very approachable, seemed almost foolproof to me.
About the negatives: with digital negs, I'm mostly interested in the printing. How and where to print/get it printed? What printing technology? How to avoid the dot grid 'newspaper style' grayscale printing approach that I don't want in my prints?
with analog negatives, how to create the best negative enlargement from film? have you used planfilm or maybe tried paper negatives for this?
That's what I meant for the most part.
Thank you for your response and for caring for your viewers! Have a nice day
@@rjbatc Well I don't get dots in my transparencies :-) I made video on the question you originally ask awhile back - czcams.com/video/Q7cWMCCOTPQ/video.html for paper negatives check out these guys czcams.com/video/07tASHM3cx8/video.html Hope that helps!
@@silverynight1548 @Gavin Lyons
a few of my experiments here: drive.google.com/folderview?id=140QN-EEYeyX7GUnOOZcBvERS4XyV7Imn
1) the building was underexposed, so no contrast, then desaturated with washing soda and maybe toned with coffee.
2) the landscape's negative lifted during exposition, hence blur, then it was maybe saturated/brightened with citric acid (not sure) and toned in coffee.
3) the girl - soda and coffee again.
4) feathers - unsuitable paper caused the brown discoloration
All of them were printed on quite rough-texture paper, but I also suspect low quality negs for the 'dirtiness'. I've had a few nicer examples, but I gave those away.
Negatives were digital printed using a xerox machine (toner) in a local copy shop. As I looked at the prints now, the dot pattern really is not visible (maybe it would be on smoother paper, don't know). You print negatives in ink Gavin, right?
Thanks for the video links.
Hi Gavin, thanks for the very helpful videos! What paper are you using for your VDB prints?
Hi Max, Thank you so much! I like to use Daler & Rowney Acrylic Paper System 3. But are lots of papers you can use best are acid free ones.
thanks for the tutorial. I have a question: ¿do you put the copy directly in the fixer after exposure? don't you make a pre wash?
Thank you
Hi Camilo,
I don't do a pre-wash but many often do, which isn't bad at all. However I wash after the fixer for a good long time. Hope that helps! good luck :-)
Gavin
i was curious to see you take the print straight to the fixer. i have never seen that approach. personally i wash my exposed VDB print in 2 baths of distilled water slightly acidified with citric acid (2.5% solution) for 2 minutes each so that it removes excess silver nitrate. this helps clear the highlights and gives better dynamic range and contrast. by putting the print directly in the fixer you are "baking in" alot of excess silver nitrate. even 2 solutions of distilled water is useful in clearing out the excess silver if you don't want to mess around with additional chemicals. give it a try, you might find it improves the results.
Thank you! That makes a lot of sense :-) Will try that and do a follow up video too.
Do your homemade led lights also work for cyanotype?
Thank you for your comment - Of course :-) my video on using the box to make Cyanotypes czcams.com/video/L7-NVZ7oWSQ/video.html (a few folks have already made one too)
Where can I buy silver nitrate?
Hi Pablo, If you live in Europe, you can buy a VDB kit from FotoImpex or Macodirect. (You don't need too much Silver Nitrate for VDB solution and it's expensive to buy 100g anyway. ) Hope that helps
thank you for this video. I did not find the link for the strip test. I would also like to know for the fixer at 3% (30g for 1 liter of water?)
Hi Jean, Thanks for your kind comments. I've add the link to the description above. (Strip Test Page can be downloaded from the UV LED Box instructions
gavinlyons.photography/uv-led-box/) . 30g is right
@@GavinLyonsCreates i found it, thanks .i still have a question about which transparency do you use for cyanotype or van dyke digital negative
@@jeanbraunschweig7454 Nothing too special, I put links in the description above for Inkjet and Laser above for Amazon. Hope that helps :-)
Do I have to throw everything away if I did use inox spoon to mix the solution A?
Not sure, maybe your solution wont be that sensitive. Depend how long you use the metal spoon for. You might be lucky. Try it, let us know how you got on. Thanks for your comment btw Gavin
@@GavinLyonsCreates well when exposed the cyanotype it doesn't get dark, it only reach a mid-dark gray, and I don't know if it's because of the spoon...
Doesn't sound good, the silver nitrate reacts to pretty much any metal especially steel.
@@GavinLyonsCreates oh no sorry, they were cyanotype solutions
@@GavinLyonsCreates so ammonium iron citrate and potassium ferricyanide 😅
There's such a gap between photographers and photo historians on the term "alternative photography.". I've never once heard it used by a historian - for obvious reasons. It's a really ahistorical term.
The vast majority are historical processes of photography. So they weren't the alternative to anything. They were the first range of choices photographers had as "alternatives" were being invented. And it's even stranger now to use this term. Film is increasingly an "alternative" to digital.
I encourage photographers to ditch this awkward term.