How to Draft a Basic Sleeve Pattern
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- This video demonstrates the sleeve drafting method from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's "Patternmaking" book (link below). It is the very basic sleeve shape, from which you can achieve any sleeve style you desire. You will need patterning paper, clear patterning ruler, French curve, measuring tape and pencil.
Video link to add dart at elbow:
@9HQ8
Helen Joseph-Armstrong's "Pattern Making" :www.abebooks.com/PATTERNMAKIN...
Im a self taught person and learn so much from the internet but this is by far the best video for any person to understand the sleeve pattern first them trace it in a paper and them adjust. Thank you so much this is. excellent. Too bad when we search the net for some reason it does not show right away...
That means so much to hear. Thank you for taking the time to tell me, it is super encouraging. I'll work on getting more videos up that are as helpful as this one.
Finally someone has created a clear and thorough video of sleeve patterns. This is very helpful. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
That is really awesome to hear and I'm glad it could help. Thanks for taking the time to say :)
these r the kind of videos that i m always searching for(n that r so difficult to find).... that explain why/how we r taking d measurements that we r taking... n how to change them for different types of garments.. or according to the effect/design we desire........... unlike others that just tell u how to draft a pattern without any explanation at all
That is the best comment anyone could ever leave. Thank you for the kind words. That makes my whole month
@@vanhertenouterwear 🙂🙏🧡
I’ve watched so many videos on this but you have so much valuable information that is missing from others. Thank you! Excellent description.
Aw, that's very kind of you to say, thanks for taking the time. I'm so glad you found the video helpful!
I am watching you again. You are a great teacher. You have taken the mystery out of sleeve drafting. Thank you.
Aww, you don't know how happy that makes me to hear that its helping that much. Thank you for taking the time to say. Very kind of you
Thank you for an outstanding explanation ❤
I'm often restyling from thrift store finds and this one tutorial is helping me tremendously!
I love everything about that! So glad it could be helpful
You are the best TEACHER EVER, thank you very much for your video, I love the way you explain it, it was easy,
I learn to sew with my grandma so long time ago, and I decide to buy a machine and start again doing nice dresses
and blouses for me, but I need a refresh after all this years, you have my like and I subscribe, HAPPY DAY.
Aw, that is so very nice of you. I'm so happy it helped! I would love to see some of the garments you make for yourself! Happy sewing!!! :)
@@vanhertenouterwear Yes. Thank you.
This explanation was just top notch. Thanks for helping me make sense of cap height, arm hole, and pivoting the middle of the sleeve for swing. This was amazing.
Oh gosh, that makes my day to hear. Thanks for taking the time to say that. I'm really glad it was helpful. Sleeves can be really challenging!
You hve explained with details, thank you. It is easy to understand.
Aw, thanks for the kind words :) I glad it was helpful in some way.
Very well done. Straight to the point without all the music and distractions. Thank you so much for an amazingly detailed account and demonstration that I can understand. I really appreciate you sharing🥰
Oh thank you so much for taking the time to say that. I'm so glad the video could help. I'll try to keep the super informative ones coming :)
I am so glad I found your tutorial!!! Have seen a bunch of videos but you are the only one starting with showing a sleeve draft and explaining the different parts of it before teaching us how to draft . Simply loved loved loved this tutorial, you are a great teacher, and the sketches after each section are so clearifying. Well done, You got my like and subscription, can't wait for more of your tutorials!!
Oh my word, you're too kind. Thank you for taking the time to write this lovely comment. It brightens my whole week. I am so happy the video helped. 🐱♥♥♥
I agree with all the great comments above. I am self learned sewing and was looking for a tutorial to explain these logics about sewing, you are great teacher and great tailor.
22:56 Amazing, perfect, wow, thanks, great clear explanation, going to try this for sure
I'm so glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words
Thank you for a well presented tutorial. And that you give credit to the book you are using to help guide us through the process. With the cost of commercial patterns now, it is very timely that you present this information to give us some DIY options that can be successful. Greatly appreciate the time you took to put this together in an easy to understand format.
Oh gosh, that is so nice to hear. I really appreciate the comment. I hope your sewing endeavors turn out fabulous!!
Thank you so much for explaining in such detail. Most of the videos I watched just showed a general draft but you explained so precisely and systematically how to make a great, fitted sleeve. Last year I was able to complete a dress to wear to my daughter’s wedding thanks to your teaching. It was easy for an inexperienced person like me to understand and solved many of my problems. This year I’m making another piece and I’m back to refer to this vid. I’m happy you’ve made more vids. I’m learning a lot. Appreciate your efforts!
Ugh, that melts my heart--I love that so much. So glad the video could be of some help. Thank you for watching and taking the time to give that awesome feedback.
Let me know if there are any specific videos you need in the future!
You are an excellent teacher. Thanks for the tips.
That is so very nice of you. I hope it was useful in some way!!
From last 2 weeks I was searching for exact same things and here it is in the middle of night CZcams recommends.!!! Liked and subscribed to the channel !! Thank you for the video.!!!!!
Aw that makes me so happy that this video could help. So glad you found it. Thanks for the kind words :)
Thanks ❤❤I’m a real “why” person and really appreciate your explanation, best I’ve seen 👏👏👏
Aw, that is super kind of you to say.
Yes, same. I feel like that is the most important part of learning. It helps with the basic comprehension of the material and then can also be used critically across different applications/disciplines.
Thanks for taking the time to say hi. I'm glad the video could be of some help!!
Brilliant!!!! This was the best tutorial ever… I am a beginner and if this sleeves doesn’t work it won’t be the fault of the video. Clear. Measured delivery in presentation. Great diagrams. Thorough. Really really pleased. Thank you,
Aw, that means the world, thanks for saying
Thank you very clear and helpful
Thank u very much for this excellent teaching
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words
Your explanation is so good! Thank you!
So sweet of you to say
I don’t plan to draft any patterns, but you tutorial helped me to understand the sewing of garments. Thank you
So glad the video could help in some way, thanks for the kind words :)
Another useful video!! You're a great teacher!!
Too kind
Wow! Thank you for this incredibly informative, clearly explained tutorial. With greetings from Cape Town.
Aw, thanks. That's really nice to hear. I'm glad it could be helpful in some way :)
Very instructive!!! I love it!!!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation.
So glad it helped!!
@@vanhertenouterwear
Hai Good Morning
I am living in Malaysia.
May I know if the Book you used
are sold.
My Email Address is
janakiganesan310@gmail.com
and my Whatapp No. is
019 310 310 1.
Thanks a lot & you have a great day ahead.
Well taught lesson thankyou.
Aw thanks for saying. I hope the video was helpful in somehow!
very nice explanation....thank you 🙏
Aw, glad it was helpful
Thank u so much....for this video....i was getting confused with the draft in the book.......this really helped......
Oh I'm so glad it was able to help! Thanks for letting me know!
Best explained tutorial👍
Aw thanks :) I hope it was helpful!
OMG thankyou soo much ...this saved my career so detailed simple...none like you...new sub 😘
Aw that's super nice to hear
This was great.Thanks
Oh good! So glad to hear that it helps :)
U explain very well, thank u
Aw that's very kind of you to say! Thanks :)
Thank you for this, new subbie. Very clear explanation. I'm in a plus size body and a few tutorials were say just use the standard measurement for cap height which isn't helpful when you're not the standard. Great Video
Aw, thanks for saying and thanks for the sub
Thank you for this
Aw, you're welcome. I hope it help somehow!
Dear Van, This is the first lesson on drafting a basic sleeve where our teacher
has pointed out that the back and front length of of bodice sleeve can be different.
This was amazing! Thank you for this!
Could you please advise on what to do if there is more than 1 inch of difference between
the front and back armscye lengths? How do I split that difference?
ie, My sister needs the extra room around the back of her sleeve because she is more round at the shoulder than I.
Just loving this lesson more than you could know! XOX
Hi Momzilla :) That is so nice of you to say. Thanks for taking the time.
good video
I love you dear. You have done great.
Thanku for sleeve moving armhole. Your hands up and down move frand side back presure.
Please do more!!!!!!
Aw, what would you like to see tutorials on?
Hi, i tryed today for the first time too make my own sleeve patern :-)) . I find it a little small at the top but as unsay u can alter that to ur own liking. Im new on this channel. I like what i saw. I subcribed. Going to explore ur channel soon. Thnx for the video. I liked the way ur explained some things. Greetings enyoi ur weeknd
Aw thanks for the encouragement. If you ever have questions about your projects, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for the sub, talk soon!!
nice madam thanks a lot
Sure thing :)
amazing class!!!!thank you so much. you are giving so much value. it's like sitting in a really good college-type class on pattern making. such in-depth teaching. thank you.
can you make the same with a basic bodice, skirt, and pants also? good day!💜💜🙏🙏
Aw, what an awesome comment to read first thing in the morning. Thanks so much for saying. I'm glad the video was helpful :)
Yes, I can plan to upload some basic pattern making content for bodice/skirt/pant.
@@vanhertenouterwear Thank you so much for considering the request! When all those come videos come out, that would be an excellent foundational course for fashion students all over the world! 🧡🧡😊😊
The sleeve video class made me visualize what happens between the sleeve and the armhole. Brought so much clarity. Grateful to CZcams too for suggesting this video.
@@COSMICGIRL009 That is the best thing a teacher could hear. I also appreciate any suggestions for making videos better or material more clear, if you think of anything! :)
@@vanhertenouterwear To me it was super clear and gave a better understanding of the dynamics of sleeve. :) Please consider doing a full series on the whole bodice block. It is a blessing to learn from you. 💜💜
@@COSMICGIRL009 oh my word, you are too kind. Yes, I've been meaning to get a more thorough video collection up!
Great video. thank you so much. Am I correct in assuming I still have to add a seam allowance?
Hey, I'm so glad the video could help! Thanks for saying
This is my go to sleeve video anytime I'm patterning one out. I was hoping you had a princess seam tutorial because I like your style but no luck. Help!
Aw, that makes my week to hear
@@vanhertenouterwear thank you for taking a moment to respond! I did waste a work day trying (but failing) today 😕. It was a low waste blouse from a customer's skirt scraps but I ended up setting it aside (for now...) when the apex ended up two cup sizes larger than intended 😭😭😭
@@lisettegarcia Ooh that sounds like a fun project. The low waste and zero waste projects are always a good challenge.
But also, don't let that discourage you. It definitely feels like we wasted time when a project doesn't work out immediately, but all of those lessons learned are important. They add up, then at a certain point, we've learned how to navigate almost anything and projects start to turn out correctly the first time. It takes a lot of messing up to get there.
Hi,thanks for the video, please could you do a tutorial for a basic bodice block ?
Sure thing! I will put that on the list :)
thank you for a great video. I plan to try this technique soon. I tried another video but the sleeve cap measurement area that they explained (shoulder cap to widest bicep) made my sleeve cap fitting too tall and the sleeve cap was puffy which is not the look I desire. Can you explain how you came up with the 3/8, 3/16, etc., measurements for G H K L M N after you divided the front and back by 4?
I appreciate your video. I’m going to watch the rest of them.
Oh, thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you got some use out of it :)
This method was developed by Helen Joseph-Armstrong and taken from her pattern making book. It's what we use at University to draft blocks.
The measurements used in this method are standardized to work for a "core" sizes, closer to sample sizes 4-6-8-10. So when our sizes get further away from that core, the less these measurements make sense for our patterns. Even if we fall into this size range, its typical to still need tweaks to the first draft.
The best thing you can do is to sample your patterns. This is the most valuable information you can get when customizing a garment. While wearing the sample, pinch out the extra material at the top of the cap and transfer that omission to your paper patterns. And likewise, add to places where you need more material.
I hope this help. Let me know if you have anymore questions
I've recently been struggling to adapt a commercial tunic top pattern for my plus size wife, with several online articles on arm alterations being unsuccessful so far! It's nice to learn the "theory" from your video, and I'm looking forward to designing the arms from scratch once my muslin arrives.
Your comment on cap height was counter-intuitive though - I assumed that a larger cap height would result in a larger armhole and therefore a more relaxed fit, not the opposite?!
Do you have a follow up to this video covering how to draft the armholes in the bodice by the way?
Thanks.
I drew mine and will like to make a little adjustments to get a more round cap.
I specifically appreciate the bit on the slouch and the need to distribute more fabric, that way.
And thanks for making me remember the pitch that shouldn't be referred to the Shoulder seam.
I've searched for your views on the basic bodice but I'm not seeing any.
Looking out for the values you may share on armholes.
I see a more regular half inch and 1 inch for the curve in the front bodice.
Thanks for your video.
Thank you for the very kind words and I hope the video helped! I have had other people ask for a bodice video. I will try to get one up for you! :)
❤❤❤
Wondering what determines front and back arm hole length when connecting top of cap to bicep line
Hey, are you referring to the height from the bicep to the top of the cap?
This method I'm using was developed by Helen Joseph Armstrong and they're using an average dimension to determine where the bicep lives in relation to the cap. So, knowing that, sometimes it works well and sometimes you'll need to work with it a little to get a custom fit.
I am a big proponent of free styling but multiple things need to be considered---the grain of fabric/pitch of the sleeve, the fit and aesthetic you want/need, the wearer's natural posture. It helps to visualize the 3D form you are trying to cover and imagine what 2D material it will take to wrap it the way you'd like. Then sample as many times as you need.
I hope that sort of answered the question. If not, let me know and I'll try again ;)
Hi! I discovered your video only a couple of days ago, and for the first time my muslin sleeve using your guide turned out a great deal better in fit than those that I'd been attempting for years. In fact I'd almost lost hope of ever wearing my own sewn long sleeve tops. Thank you so very much for putting up this video.
I have a little issue though when I place the shoulder seam notch 1/2" forward on the front part of the sleeve because the shape and notches for the lower part of the arm scye no longer match with those of the sleeve. Please advise.
Aw, that is so great to hear. I love that the video could help in some way, it makes my day
@@vanhertenouterwear Hi, I slashed through the cap as advised, moved more volume to the front and reduced the back while more or less maintaining the lower notches, and it worked! Thank you so much.
@@Drtrtm Yes! That is what I like to hear! Good job
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. I keep running into the same issue with sleeve patterns. The top part is always more narrow than wide and it does fit into the bodice well. When doing your method I noticed it when forming the triangle. My Cap was 7.5, Back Armhole = 7.5 and Front Armhole = 8.5 which made a narrow triangle in itself especially the back. These are my true measurements, any idea how to alter this to be more wide and rounded at the top?
Hey S
In my experience with sleeves and this mathematical flat-pattern method, is that the sleeve cap will usually need some minor adjustments after. For me, I don't turn to math for these additional steps, I make small changes to the shape and length, then make a sample and see if the sleeve hangs how you'd like it to.
If I were you in this situation, I would write down the measurements you need for your front bodice and back bodice armhole. Then free-hand draft the cap to be slightly wider and shorter in shape. You can google an image of sleeve pattern to see what shapes you are looking for. Remember---the wider and shorter the cap, the more casual, sporty and mobile the sleeve.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@vanhertenouterwear okay great, thank you
Kakak 👍
Q: to establish the arm hole measurement (using a rigid ruler,) you measure the shoulder to armpit on the front and separately on the back? That’s how you get the different measurements front and back? Maybe need a friend to help get the back measurement? Just trying to get that part straight. Thank you.
That measurement is just the cap height, which is from the underarm up to shoulder. This is the same for the front and back, so no need to measure again for the back. Remember that cap height is related to the type of fit you desire. You can reduce the cap height if you would like a more casual, active sleeve, and the bicep would need to also get wider.
Do the measurements of g, h, k, l, m & n change if the circumference of the bicep is larger?
Hey Bethany! No, those measurements are used for every sleeve pattern, no matter the difference in bicep or cap height etc.
Thanks!! Very helpful! I'm so so so glad I found your video!🥰🥰🥰
Sorry, last question lol is this the same method used to do men sleeves?
@@bethanytasele-falelaulii8640 oh gosh, you can ask as many questions as you'd like!
Yes, you would also use this for a men's sleeve, but remember this is a very basic start to the sleeve pattern. You would want to compare the cap of your drafted sleeve to the armhole of your garment to make sure you have the same seam length (or similar length, usually there is some ease or extra length in the cap compared to the length of the armhole). Then consider the function you need out of this garment. Do you need a lot of mobility? Then you need to flatten the cap like the video talks about in the beginning. Then sample it in fabric and make adjustments where necessary. I hope that helps. Dont hesitate to ask more questions, I'm here!
Sleeves...🤯🤯🤯
Where can i find this book?
Do a general search for "Helen Joseph-Armstrong Patternmaking" and you'll see a bunch of options :)
Hi. Thanks so much! How do you add the dart and adjust wrist angle. I saw this done in a video in a different language but don't quite understand yet! I just bought some very expensive fabric, I don't want to mess up. Lol
Oh gosh, can you make a sleeve and armhole mockup in a cheaper fabric before using your nice fabric?
The elbow dart and wrist angle are really simple but might be hard to explain in a written response. I think it will be quicker just to make a short video on it. Should be up tonight or tomorrow :)
@@vanhertenouterwear Just to let you know, I did follow your instructions here, and in your sleeve with dart video!! So happy, with the mock outcome and extremely grateful. Thanks again!. I'm going to cut my pretty fabric for a tailored blouse on Sunday🙂
@@kimberleyjane2338 Oh that makes me so happy!! I would love to see if once its finished if you get a picture of it! That is such an exciting feeling, good luck on the rest of the project!
@@vanhertenouterwear Thank you. I dont have social media, too time consuming, and I dont see your email, in the description. How may I send you a picture, please?
@@kimberleyjane2338 Yes, good for you. Social media is so terrible. I fully get it. You can use the email catelatham@vanhertenouterwear.com if you would like to send any pics! I'd love to see!!
I did this but it got too tight in biceps because of taking away from the sides. Thanks for the video
Yes, it can be a tricky balancing act. The height of the cap can be reduced.
how did fyou come up with the 3/8 on the g ?????
Hey Cherry, this is a method out of Helen Joseph-Armstrong's pattern making book, the same book that is used in many Fashion Design programs. So, this is just one person's method to get you close to the cap shape you need. Likely you will need to sample and alter for best results.
I followed the exact directions but for some reason the sleeve cap/ curve was larger than the arm hole. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Sandyskulls
@@vanhertenouterwear it was about 2 inches bigger. I realized later that I measured the arm hole without taking the shoulder seam measurement out. I leave a 1/2inch seam (1 inch total with front and back pattern). Are we supposed to include or takeout the shoulder seam measurement? oh I didn’t know about a gathering stitch. I’m self taught so I’ve just been sewing with everything matching and lining up exactly, and I’ve kinda just free drawn the sleeves before. I’m guessing a gathering stitch will give more of a puff out sleeve? By the way thank you for your videos they really explain a lot and are very helpful.
@@sandyskulls Aw, thanks for the kind words
@@vanhertenouterwear thank you!
When you are prsenting next video pls increase the sound. It's not very clear .
Thanks for suggestion. Did you try turning the volume up? It gets extremely loud if I turn the volume up on my computer.
@@vanhertenouterwear yeah, i have turned the volume up, not so much clear