This series from Wes should be used at vocational schools as a teaching aid. Wes is easily one of the best mechanics with a CZcams channel. He's right up there with Darren Mustie1 in both ability and his awesome personality traits. The right amount of humor including occasional self depreciating humor at the right time.
I've forgotten how many of those seals I fitted, but do remember how FN hard it was to get my hands clean at the end of the day after doing 200 + engines in a shift. Cheers Eric
Engine design was originally Graham-Paige car engine in 30's built by Continental under license. Continental bought design and continued production for their own use during and after the war. Aside from various Continental Red Seal applications was also used in Kaiser-Frazer cars, Willys Wagons/Trucks, and by Grey Marine in a lot of Century boats. The 33 head bolts were because this was originally a supercharged engine, contemporary engines like Chrysler 230 used fewer bolts.
The old "paper envelope gasket" trick :D Learned something new there! I had issues finding the right thickness gasket for my Harley Shovelhead engine. The one that came with the new oil pump was too thick, and I wasn't getting high enough oil pressure. Ended up making my own thinner gasket out of some thin polyethylene film I had kicking around, and that worked a treat. Meant that the pump wasn't bypassing soo much oil and it could maintain higher pressures. Still works to this day, after 4 years, so I'm sure your gasket will work just fine :)
It's easy to forget something if you don't do it every day. You caught it that's a plus! Cars, trucks, tractors. Every thing is different, and new stuff you almost need to be a rocket scientist! Great videos!!
I was told almost 50 years ago the easiest way to install the "rope seal" was to soak it in motor oil before inserting it in the groove. Once in the groove you cut off the excess on both the block and bearing cap if that was how it went. Just for the sake of it check out doing a rear main engine seal on a Chevy Vega with a 140 CID 4 cylinder.
I'd never seen a rope seal installed before, I believe they're impregnated with graphite for initial lube, well done with the shifter (Aussie for cresent wrench😂) using the key on the crankto turn it over too, that is a very cool governor on the old beast and is that a seal journal on the back of the flywheel? Scania trucks use that method on their rear main so when it has a groove worn you just replace the flywheel, brilliant idea.
Massey Ferguson used more of their over head valve engines, Massey Harris used Continental's flat head engines, I have two Massey Harris 101 Senior tractors that have the F226 engines. I am schooling myself up on your videos to rebuild them myself, I live in New Zealand so I will have to inport most of the parts from the USA.
@@WatchWesWork Yep I watched your video on the dragline with the big Continental this week, you showed their business card, so Google them, then emailed them. The big thing for me is trying to keep it original as much as possible. Both tractors were my grandfathers. One is on steel wheels which very rare as most of them got put on to rubber after WW2.
i use to work for a recycling co that had a worn out forklift it used a lot of oil. the only thing the boss would spring for was a head gasket. it took me forever to figure out how to set the timing. he finally sold the business and scrapped the forklift.
Thanks, you answered my question. When i removed the rear main seal lower cap i noticed the pan gasket was sandwiched inbetween the seal halves. I wondered about that when i seen it. I do not have a conti book on this engine. I had heard of the 2 piece rope seal holder but had never encountered one till this engine. ( neighbors Miller welder). Did several rope seals many years ago on old chevys. I enjoyed that work as a young man. Glad i dont have to make my living like this anymore. Not near as much fun as it once was.
I was told by a guy at a sewer treatment plant that some of there pumps have rope seals in them. They give it a pump of grease periodically to keep them tight. They said they would actually wear through the shaft over time. Nice work. 👍
He is correct. Most vertical turbine and horizontal splitcase pumps use rope seals. You adjust a packing nut to where the seal is lubricated by the pumped liquid. On original start up you have to adjust the amount of drip for lubrication. It is better to allow a pretty rapid drip rate on new seal startup. They have a tendancy to swell and adjust around and stop leaking for the seal lubrication. No lubrication is detrimental to the life of the shaft and the seal.
Hi Wes, the rear main upper portion is graphite in probably cotton . Pump packing . yes they do drip a bit . not good for clutch. Wonderful videos . many THANKS.
Yeah Continental once dominated the forklift market. Around the early 80s everyone started switching to Japanese overhead valve engines from Mazda, Mitsubishi, Toyota, etc. Sometimes you see GM or Ford industrial engines.
That's what mine is a 4 cylinder continental. It runs terrible can't even move on its own. Any idea Things I have done. Rebuild the regulator and replaced key switch points and plugs and condenser .changed tank from another one that ran. Any ideas before I torch it ? Aughta burn pretty good with a full tank on it.
So the jute... They have teflon impregnated versions for steam engine valve packing made by Danco. That's a great replacement for graphite impregnated jute rope. You're living the Edwardian dream using that packing rope.
"Crappy Design" Says Wes. Wes when this engine was designed and built there were no seals available as you know them. the material just was not designed/available yet! so it was what we "Old folks" used to keep the world turning! Whinge over! PS, interesting to jump back four years to "Watch Wes Work". Best wishes!
Dads Oliver AG 6 dozer it was a 53 to 56 vintage it too had a continental engine as well 6 cylender and it was a flathead distributor in the center if the head and its exhaust manifold was all rotted out at the flange that routes the exhaust away from the engine bay.
In the jute seal, the other part is usually no more than graphite (like in a pencil) so shouldn't be carcinogenic. As for the Welch plug; the way I was taught to install them is with the curve outwards, and then smack the center with a pin punch, to spread the rim out into the hole. I do hope your stays in, the way you did it :-)
When I was in high school I was in an auto mechanics class and we finished rebuilding a Ford 351 and installed in a ford van. I called the shop teacher and he said not now and I called him again and he said "Gene, shut the F up" and I said ok. They started the engine and within 2 minutes the engine seized up and the teacher was like "how did this happen." I said no motor will run very long with the oil pump not installed. Teacher demanded why I did not say anything and I said your exact words was "gene, shut the F up." The school had to pay for a used block and rebuild another motor.
The rope seal is impregnated with graphite, when installed correctly they work properly, I have installed many and never had them fail, they are simple and just work. 😁
Tapit wrenches are still made to this day there just called Thin wall or ultra thin Wrenchs aka Slim Wrenches But the tapit wrenches definitely can be returned to the museum lmfao 🤣 @Watch Wes Work
I’m doing medium speed marine diesel or heavy fuel oil engines, and occasionally gas engine or engine at a power plant. Although everything is way larger I’ve noticed that even smaller diesels have pretty much same procedure setting the valve clearances. I do the same way but another functional way which I find to be quicker and more easy is when I have the cam shaft covers opened up. I would then look at the cam shaft and adjust the valves which have the push rod roller on the base of the cam lobe. I’m sure it could be applied to an engine of the size you work on if practical? Big thumbs up for the “one click only” with the torque wrench. Double click is amateurish but saying that is like opening a can of worms.... 😁
Yes, you could just look at the cam since the oil pan is removed. If the pan is on, it's more difficult. This is a simple engine. An engine with unit injectors or a compression brake setup will be much more time consuming.
Some of the overhead cam car engines are a pain. You have to pop the lifters out with special tools and install shims under the "buckets". Or the small engines like a Briggs and Stratton that require you to grind the end of the valve stems.
I think it might be graphite that the rope seal is impregnated with. I remember replacing these on a water pump. It was a PITA working the old one out and the new one into the narrow space between the electric motor and the pump housing.
If you get bored, a plexiglass head would be an entertaining demonstration, yes its been done on a lawnmower, a straight six would be six times better and interesting to watch. :)
I frequently touch off grinding wheels using a .005 shim and I can get them within a couple tenths and sometimes spot on. I call it good when I can just feel friction. some people like to keep going until it grabs it fully and I've found that it can be way off.
No favorite Permatex libation on the oil pan gasket? +1 for the Permatex Aviation sealant, my VW engine is probably held together more by Permatex than the case bolts. :) As they say in the VW world, oil leaks are a result of too much oil and too little Permatex being applied during assembly.
39.13 nooooooooooooooooooo.goes other way ,then you punch the centre to splay the edges into the casting to give it a good tight seal.its only drain back pressure so should be ok.
Wish we could use these on citrus wind machines. Due to the power requirements, we need V8s. Our wind machines are rather old and use ~290cu in Ford Y blocks. They run on propane.
Someday I'd love to work on an inline 8 like the old Packards. My great uncle used to work on them. He always said they were so smooth that you could set the timing by setting a glass of water on the head and turn the distributor until there were no ripples!
Truck and equipment engines may not use the rope seals anymore. But electrical motors use the shit out of them. They may not be jute, but the idea is the exact same in 2 piece sleeve bearings. They use a rope seal under the armature shaft
Continental made a lot of engines including General Aviation aircraft like Cessna and Beechcraft and Piper only 1 aircraft the PA-44 Seminole Twin-Engine
next time you make a gasket try engine oil on the metal face. Press once and you have a perfect outline with no chance of the paper shifting as you rub.
If you ever need anything small ground on a blanchard I could do it for you. theres 3 of them at work and there's always at least 1 available. I've ground more parts on it than I ever wanted to and I've done a few of my own personal parts on it too. not sure if you still have that surface grinder still but I bet you'll probably use that for all your grinding needs anyway.
hi wes here i another way of setting valve clearances i was taught 6 cylinder with 12 valves you use 13 meaning when num 1 valve is 0pen you adjust 12 num 7 valve is open you adjust num 6 valve always add up to 13 if a 4 cylinder 8 valve eng you use number 9
Wes, Interesting but why rebuild this dinosaur? Also, i like to set the distributor in before installing tappet cover, so that I know number one cylinder is at TD
I had already sunk some $ into it for the forklift project. Rather than flush it, I figured I could finish the rebuild and maybe sell it to recoup some of that money. I set the timing using the flywheel timing marks. It's in the next video.
Wes, had a lot of fun watching these videos and looking forward to the finally. Isn't that long front to back hole call the oil gallery? Just asking? Thank you for making your videos they are very good. ATB, Joe
doesn't hurt especially if there isn't a way to prime the oil pump on its own without rotating the engine, sticks and stays on surfaces better than the regular motor oil
@@WatchWesWork When you were applying the assembly lube you finished some bearings with a clockwise finger motion. The anticlockwise ones will fail in a few years.
NEVER DRIVE A FROST PLUG IN FROM THE INSIDE , ALLWAYS DRIVE IN FROM THE OUTER SHOLDER. WITH A FLAT BLOCK STEEL AND A CLUB HAMMER. YOU CUP THE OUTER WALL BY HOW YOU DO IT
This series from Wes should be used at vocational schools as a teaching aid.
Wes is easily one of the best mechanics with a CZcams channel.
He's right up there with Darren Mustie1 in both ability and his awesome personality traits.
The right amount of humor including occasional self depreciating humor at the right time.
I've forgotten how many of those seals I fitted, but do remember how FN hard it was to get my hands clean at the end of the day after doing 200 + engines in a shift.
Cheers Eric
Engine design was originally Graham-Paige car engine in 30's built by Continental under license. Continental bought design and continued production for their own use during and after the war. Aside from various Continental Red Seal applications was also used in Kaiser-Frazer cars, Willys Wagons/Trucks, and by Grey Marine in a lot of Century boats. The 33 head bolts were because this was originally a supercharged engine, contemporary engines like Chrysler 230 used fewer bolts.
Wow. I didn't know any of that.
we have old home made tractor that used a Paige car engine and it has lots of head bolts and yes it is a continental 6 cyl. engine
a tip: you can watch movies on kaldroStream. Been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Ricky Tyson yea, been using kaldrostream for since december myself =)
The old "paper envelope gasket" trick :D Learned something new there! I had issues finding the right thickness gasket for my Harley Shovelhead engine. The one that came with the new oil pump was too thick, and I wasn't getting high enough oil pressure. Ended up making my own thinner gasket out of some thin polyethylene film I had kicking around, and that worked a treat. Meant that the pump wasn't bypassing soo much oil and it could maintain higher pressures. Still works to this day, after 4 years, so I'm sure your gasket will work just fine :)
Very nice rebuild on this old continental motor @Watch Wes Work
It's easy to forget something if you don't do it every day. You caught it that's a plus! Cars, trucks, tractors. Every thing is different, and new stuff you almost need to be a rocket scientist! Great videos!!
I was told almost 50 years ago the easiest way to install the "rope seal" was to soak it in motor oil before inserting it in the groove. Once in the groove you cut off the excess on both the block and bearing cap if that was how it went. Just for the sake of it check out doing a rear main engine seal on a Chevy Vega with a 140 CID 4 cylinder.
While I was watching this video my wife spoke up...”those gears look like flowers”. Haha! Ya got sumptin for everybody!
I am happy to see that there is someone out there with you kind of skill. You rock.
I'd never seen a rope seal installed before, I believe they're impregnated with graphite for initial lube, well done with the shifter (Aussie for cresent wrench😂) using the key on the crankto turn it over too, that is a very cool governor on the old beast and is that a seal journal on the back of the flywheel? Scania trucks use that method on their rear main so when it has a groove worn you just replace the flywheel, brilliant idea.
Massey Ferguson used more of their over head valve engines, Massey Harris used Continental's flat head engines, I have two Massey Harris 101 Senior tractors that have the F226 engines. I am schooling myself up on your videos to rebuild them myself, I live in New Zealand so I will have to inport most of the parts from the USA.
Interesting. Monte's in the Chicago area is a good parts source. Or Reliance Power Parts.
@@WatchWesWork Yep I watched your video on the dragline with the big Continental this week, you showed their business card, so Google them, then emailed them. The big thing for me is trying to keep it original as much as possible. Both tractors were my grandfathers. One is on steel wheels which very rare as most of them got put on to rubber after WW2.
Enjoyed watching and learning.
i use to work for a recycling co that had a worn out forklift it used a lot of oil. the only thing the boss would spring for was a head gasket. it took me forever to figure out how to set the timing. he finally sold the business and scrapped the forklift.
Part 2 the saga continues.
It’s looking good so far. 👍
Now, on to part 3 😀
Thanks, you answered my question. When i removed the rear main seal lower cap i noticed the pan gasket was sandwiched inbetween the seal halves. I wondered about that when i seen it. I do not have a conti book on this engine. I had heard of the 2 piece rope seal holder but had never encountered one till this engine. ( neighbors Miller welder). Did several rope seals many years ago on old chevys. I enjoyed that work as a young man. Glad i dont have to make my living like this anymore. Not near as much fun as it once was.
I was told by a guy at a sewer treatment plant that some of there pumps have rope seals in them. They give it a pump of grease periodically to keep them tight. They said they would actually wear through the shaft over time. Nice work. 👍
He is correct. Most vertical turbine and horizontal splitcase pumps use rope seals. You adjust a packing nut to where the seal is lubricated by the pumped liquid. On original start up you have to adjust the amount of drip for lubrication. It is better to allow a pretty rapid drip rate on new seal startup. They have a tendancy to swell and adjust around and stop leaking for the seal lubrication. No lubrication is detrimental to the life of the shaft and the seal.
Hi Wes, the rear main upper portion is graphite in probably cotton . Pump packing . yes they do drip a bit . not good for clutch. Wonderful videos . many THANKS.
great job on the instructional video, same motor but 4 cyclinder I have in my forklift but runs on propane (most of the time, runs that is)
Yeah Continental once dominated the forklift market. Around the early 80s everyone started switching to Japanese overhead valve engines from Mazda, Mitsubishi, Toyota, etc. Sometimes you see GM or Ford industrial engines.
That's what mine is a 4 cylinder continental. It runs terrible can't even move on its own. Any idea
Things I have done. Rebuild the regulator and replaced key switch points and plugs and condenser .changed tank from another one that ran. Any ideas before I torch it ? Aughta burn pretty good with a full tank on it.
Too excited to see part 3 now I'm going to part 3
So the jute... They have teflon impregnated versions for steam engine valve packing made by Danco. That's a great replacement for graphite impregnated jute rope. You're living the Edwardian dream using that packing rope.
"Crappy Design" Says Wes. Wes when this engine was designed and built there were no seals available as you know them. the material just was not designed/available yet! so it was what we "Old folks" used to keep the world turning! Whinge over! PS, interesting to jump back four years to "Watch Wes Work". Best wishes!
Nuthin' like a little Wes drama. Thanks Wes.
Way to McGyver that gasket, Wes. Brilliant!
Those Tappets remind me of Flat-Head Ford V8's - Except you have to take intake manifold off to set them!
How I love mechanical puzzles!
Dads Oliver AG 6 dozer it was a 53 to 56 vintage it too had a continental engine as well 6 cylender and it was a flathead distributor in the center if the head and its exhaust manifold was all rotted out at the flange that routes the exhaust away from the engine bay.
Love your videos
Amazing Video! I'm really enjoying this series, thank you!
YES!!! Now I know what those wrenches are for! I literally never knew
The spiral machining was used by cummins back in the day on their accessorie drive.
In the jute seal, the other part is usually no more than graphite (like in a pencil) so shouldn't be carcinogenic.
As for the Welch plug; the way I was taught to install them is with the curve outwards, and then smack the center with a pin punch, to spread the rim out into the hole. I do hope your stays in, the way you did it :-)
Thumbs up 👍 moving on.
When I was in high school I was in an auto mechanics class and we finished rebuilding a Ford 351 and installed in a ford van. I called the shop teacher and he said not now and I called him again and he said "Gene, shut the F up" and I said ok. They started the engine and within 2 minutes the engine seized up and the teacher was like "how did this happen." I said no motor will run very long with the oil pump not installed. Teacher demanded why I did not say anything and I said your exact words was "gene, shut the F up." The school had to pay for a used block and rebuild another motor.
The rope seal is impregnated with graphite, when installed correctly they work properly, I have installed many and never had them fail, they are simple and just work. 😁
They are fine for these old low RPM engines with open crank case vents.
Thanks for a great video very interesting .
Tapit wrenches are still made to this day there just called Thin wall or ultra thin Wrenchs aka Slim Wrenches But the tapit wrenches definitely can be returned to the museum lmfao 🤣 @Watch Wes Work
I’m doing medium speed marine diesel or heavy fuel oil engines, and occasionally gas engine or engine at a power plant.
Although everything is way larger I’ve noticed that even smaller diesels have pretty much same procedure setting the valve clearances.
I do the same way but another functional way which I find to be quicker and more easy is when I have the cam shaft covers opened up.
I would then look at the cam shaft and adjust the valves which have the push rod roller on the base of the cam lobe.
I’m sure it could be applied to an engine of the size you work on if practical?
Big thumbs up for the “one click only” with the torque wrench.
Double click is amateurish but saying that is like opening a can of worms.... 😁
Yes, you could just look at the cam since the oil pan is removed. If the pan is on, it's more difficult. This is a simple engine. An engine with unit injectors or a compression brake setup will be much more time consuming.
You haven't lived until you have set the valves on that spider setup on an Allison aircraft engine. :-)
Some of the overhead cam car engines are a pain. You have to pop the lifters out with special tools and install shims under the "buckets". Or the small engines like a Briggs and Stratton that require you to grind the end of the valve stems.
I think it might be graphite that the rope seal is impregnated with. I remember replacing these on a water pump. It was a PITA working the old one out and the new one into the narrow space between the electric motor and the pump housing.
Yeah, I think it is graphite. Some are teflon impregnated.
If you get bored, a plexiglass head would be an entertaining demonstration, yes its been done on a lawnmower, a straight six would be six times better and interesting to watch. :)
I frequently touch off grinding wheels using a .005 shim and I can get them within a couple tenths and sometimes spot on. I call it good when I can just feel friction. some people like to keep going until it grabs it fully and I've found that it can be way off.
It's one of those things that is different for everyone, but the point is that you don't really have to get that close.
I think taking an engine down this far for a rebuild, and with no time limit, I would have repainted it. Runs like new, should look like new.
man that lid for the case looks like a dino skull
No favorite Permatex libation on the oil pan gasket? +1 for the Permatex Aviation sealant, my VW engine is probably held together more by Permatex than the case bolts. :) As they say in the VW world, oil leaks are a result of too much oil and too little Permatex being applied during assembly.
You can always bring the OP up by cranking the engine. The sealant is too important to skimp.
That amount of head bolts I would be scared I would miss one it’s probably good they are not talk to yield bolts
39.13 nooooooooooooooooooo.goes other way ,then you punch the centre to splay the edges into the casting to give it a good tight seal.its only drain back pressure so should be ok.
Yes
Continental made many an aircraft engine for WW-2 as well..
adjust 1 when 6 in rocking 3 when é is rocking the best way from a old papy mechanic !!!
Wish we could use these on citrus wind machines. Due to the power requirements, we need V8s. Our wind machines are rather old and use ~290cu in Ford Y blocks. They run on propane.
cool build for sure, hard to beat the torque of a inline 6
Someday I'd love to work on an inline 8 like the old Packards. My great uncle used to work on them. He always said they were so smooth that you could set the timing by setting a glass of water on the head and turn the distributor until there were no ripples!
I built a straight 8 Buick once, it was smooth. I have never had my hands on a v16 caddy though, well at least not yet. :-)
i used teflon loaded pump seal square rope on my 415 continental rear main seal
That should work well. I think this one uses graphite.
Very nice
Truck and equipment engines may not use the rope seals anymore. But electrical motors use the shit out of them. They may not be jute, but the idea is the exact same in 2 piece sleeve bearings. They use a rope seal under the armature shaft
Continental made a lot of engines including General Aviation aircraft like Cessna and Beechcraft and Piper only 1 aircraft the PA-44 Seminole Twin-Engine
Awesome
next time you make a gasket try engine oil on the metal face. Press once and you have a perfect outline with no chance of the paper shifting as you rub.
If you ever need anything small ground on a blanchard I could do it for you. theres 3 of them at work and there's always at least 1 available. I've ground more parts on it than I ever wanted to and I've done a few of my own personal parts on it too. not sure if you still have that surface grinder still but I bet you'll probably use that for all your grinding needs anyway.
There is a shop in town with a Blanchard that is dirt cheap. If I need any stock removed I take it to them.
Wes Johnson what do they charge?
Holy smokes, theres *rope* holding parts of the engine together? Man there's gotta be an upgrade material for a jute seal...
Yeah, the rope seals are made from jute. They all used to be that way. Any newer engine will have a regular lip seal. Much better.
bet the feeler gauge was used, as dial indicators were not that common and very expensive back then.
I've seen my dad make gaskets out of brown paper sacks a hundred times or more.
You installed that plug backwards behind the end of the camshaft.
Oil pump almost looks like an oil pump I just installed on a Mooney M20C Lycoming IO-360 aircraft engine
Nice!!
Hi friend !! best regards !! I have a mini ball head hammer super for special gasket work !
graphite paste crank seal
copper washers to be reused make them red hot and drop them in cold water that will blend up them to insure sealing even injectors copper washers !
hi wes here i another way of setting valve clearances i was taught 6 cylinder with 12 valves you use 13 meaning when num 1 valve is 0pen you adjust 12 num 7 valve is open you adjust num 6 valve always add up to 13 if a 4 cylinder 8 valve eng you use number 9
These F series Continental engines were simple , durable , reliable and economical . What else could you ask for in a forklift ? Thanks
They are reliable, but pretty crude. I actually thing the Chrysler slant 6 was a good industrial engine. Yale used them in many of their lifts.
Hello, can someone tell me the power of the F245 engine installed in a Lincoln sae 400 welding machine
Wes, Interesting but why rebuild this dinosaur? Also, i like to set the distributor in before installing tappet cover, so that I know number one cylinder is at TD
I had already sunk some $ into it for the forklift project. Rather than flush it, I figured I could finish the rebuild and maybe sell it to recoup some of that money. I set the timing using the flywheel timing marks. It's in the next video.
Wes, had a lot of fun watching these videos and looking forward to the finally. Isn't that long front to back hole call the oil gallery? Just asking? Thank you for making your videos they are very good. ATB, Joe
I'm not sure what you would call it. It is important though!
The only reason it fit back together is that you used assembly lube. 😉
I knew if I didn't use it I'd get 50 comments about how I "ruined" the crank or cam or whatever.
doesn't hurt especially if there isn't a way to prime the oil pump on its own without rotating the engine, sticks and stays on surfaces better than the regular motor oil
@@WatchWesWork
When you were applying the assembly lube you finished some bearings with a clockwise finger motion. The anticlockwise ones will fail in a few years.
jonka1 This made me laugh. Thanks.
Nice!! :-)
Part 3 when it goes on the dyno for break in? :-)
Test and tune. I've been eyeing a NOS system...
wes are u going to give it a little paint, look better
Wheres the engine now??
Dodge had the flat heads
They put a rubber seal on the bottom and a jute seal on the top? That's real dumb. Why not the same seal on both sides?
The rubber seal was for the oil pan. The two halves of the crank seal were jute
are you going to paint it.
NEVER DRIVE A FROST PLUG IN FROM THE INSIDE , ALLWAYS DRIVE IN FROM THE OUTER SHOLDER. WITH A FLAT BLOCK STEEL AND A CLUB HAMMER. YOU CUP THE OUTER WALL BY HOW YOU DO IT
those seals were used on jaguars twin cam engines useless
you put the welsh plug in the back of the cam shaft the wrong way the convect goes outwards and you indent it once you have fitted it to lock it in
That's how the manual says to install it.
you still talk to much and there are other video's showing that daa .