Applying Decals & Transfers On Miniature: Two Amazing Products Micro Sol and Set
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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I use a dry Q-tip to roll across the decal to push air bubbles out. And I use Micro Sol on a Q-tip to push the decal down into the contours of the model, like if its going over some armour plating segments. Awesome video Rob thanks!!
Pro tip: hit any panel (or the whole miniature, actually) you’re putting transfers on with gloss varnish FIRST. Then follow the micro set micro sol process. Don’t be afraid to gently apply micro sol several times. Just don’t touch the decal, as it will be softened. The micro sol helps the decal flow over round surfaces and also softens the edge to remove the ridge. Then follow with another gloss varnish, followed by a final matte varnish. The first coat of gloss helps in maneuvering the decal and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, it makes the surrounding panel have the same sheen as the decal.
yeah, that clear boarder around decals makes me avoid doing them at all.
Steven Carriere yep, the microsol with an under and over coat of gloss should eliminate it.
also, put a drop of water on the spot to keep the decal movable.
When you say put the gloss varnish first, do you mean brush a coat on, let it dry, then micro set over top of it? Then follow this tut and at the end a thin coat of gloss varnish and matte varnish to get rid of the shiny border?
@@TheEgoraptor yes, one coat of gloss varnish, let dry, one coat of micro-set (or Vallejo Decal Fix), let dry a bit, apply decal, dry off decal (remove excess water with cottonswab or piece of paper towel), apply Micro-Sol (or Vallejo Decal Medium, also called Decal Softener), let sit for a couple of minutes, then gently brush from the center to the edges and press down the decal to have it completely smooth and flat on the surface. Then let dry and finish with a layer of matte varnish. that's how I do it, and it works for me since I started model building 30 years ago.
Another product is Revell Decal Softener. this works without a fixing medium and is applied right before the decal is placed. the rest is as described above.
One more thing: if you place decals on curved surfaces, it is highly important to use Micro-Sol, or any of the decal softener products, because the decal otherwise forms bubbles or wrinkles at the edges. looks bad and cannot be fixed when everything is dried without damaging the decal.
ooooooo...stunning paint job tooooo.....oh arrrr!
Thanks for this video!
What is the point of Micro Sol and softening in this case as the decal is going over a surface that is perfectly smooth? Softening is used to make the decal sink over texture such as rivets, grooves, curves etc. to give the illusion that the decal was painted on. This example does not require it.
But how do you get it so it looks like it's painted on, all those decals look super shiny and ... not part of the model
Thanks for sharing.
Do like that stuff, had to put some thousand sons transfers on rubric marines today, and couldn't have applied those decals over a rounder shoulder pad without it ... maybe do a video showing how good it is to put decals over oddly shaped surfaces too :D
Nice, cause I do suck at decals
sounds good and loooks good to and darn fist and last see waht you post new
You look like that one mathematician on Numberphile
Wow that looks way too hard I just soak it in white vinegar and put over a gloss coated surface the vinegar softens it then you coat over the top with Matt varnish once done and white vinegar is basically free for what it costs
Im gonna try that
a wee bitty blue tac is good as a third hand,the micro clear is good stuff too....goodly nice episode spikey lad...
micro sol helps decals over rough surfaces..you dont need it here you have a smooth surface... micro set sets the decal to the surface,, your doing it backwards..you are setting the decal then softening it? smh
Have you ever created your own decal sheets? I can't find Dark Angels decals for a reasonable price
is there a semi-gloss and lusterless varnish that you can use with a paint brush and not a spray can? I have so many finished models that have zero decals and I really want to use this technique but I do not want to spray my entire finished models as I don't want their colors to start changing. Any suggestions?
vallejo satin varnish. but the glossyness of the varnish can be neglected, if you choose to matte the minis in the end with matte varnish. so, paint your model, put gloss varnish on the spots, you wish to put decals on, use micro sol, place decal, use micro set, oseal with matte varnish, done.
alternatives to Vallejo: Army painter Anti-Shine varnish, or stuff from Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, AK Interactive, Warcolours, Minitaire, etc. doesn't matter. as long you get something decent, it's fine.
there's also an alternative to Micro-sol/-set: Vallejo Decal Fix and Decal Medium (a.k.a. Softener), Revell Decal Soft, Mr. Hobby Mr. Mark Softener, Tamiya Decal Adhesive, Lifecolor Decalsoft, Daco Decalsetting, etc. loads of stuff out there doing the same.
I've never understood what's wrong with a good ol' sticker. Then again, forcing people to buy all sorts of mediums and technical paints is what brings in the money.
sticker looks like a sticker, bruh. they're also way thicker and you can't melt them the way you can melt waterslide decals.
Omg!!!! Dont drop your decals in the water like that!!! Get a rag or paper towel,moisten it, and set your decal on top of it...dropping in water like that tends to wipe the adhesive off the decal.
uh, I've never heard or seen anyone doing that. virtually everyone I've seen doing decals just dunks them in water.
What if my decals are literally decentrading when I put them in water.
30$ for a decal sheet? I'll pass. I thought bandai was bad for charging ~10