Couple of points here: You should replace the inner nuts and bolts on the arms as these are torque to spec bolts and torque varies according to the grade of bolt and as everyone else has pointed out this should be done under full load of the car. Also the fastenings for the boots should be replaced with new ones as they tend to fail second use. Also when loosening the track rod count the number of revolutions to take off or measure the distance to thread end to give yourself a rough alignment before you take the vehicle to have its suspension checked over for alignment.
As already said, those control arm bushes should only be tightened when the suspension is under load, other wise the bushes will be potentially distorted causing premature failure.
Your DIY videos are terrific! Love that you started with a non-sport package E90 and upgraded, but have to say your bent/warped ISC coilover makes me think twice about wheel spacers and the extra force they inflict. Keep up the terrific work meantime.
Just picked up a 2010 328xi and its having front suspension issues. Thanks for making this video and giving me the courage to do this myself instead of paying a shop. keep it up
Great video. I replaced the 2 control arms and the sway bar link..but not the tie rod. And yes the tie rod boot gets in the way to slide out a bolt. YOU LUCKY YOU MANAGED WITH ADJUSTABLE WRENCH...HOLY CRAP. I had to apply penetrating oil and use a fixed head 21mm spanner and hammer it as it was really tight an still had a scare moment thinking it would slip. The adjustable wrench would have just slipped and spoiled my day. Tried to push pressure from underneath of the balljoint but nope still had to use T40 to hold otherwise balljoint just spins. Took me 2 hours per side and saved few ££ in garage cost.
Re: Tyre wear. I was having serious issues with rear tyre (inner edge) wear on my 330D E91. Getting the tracking adjusted and going back to run flats (much stiffer sidewalls) solved this completely.
I think those control arms should only be torqued with the entire suspension weight on it; In a settled position, as being torqued before being settled causes the rubbers in the arms to be over torqued when the settled weight hits it being that it was pre-torqued.
@@JDCarsChannel You can jack up the wheel assembly. Just like you did with tie rods. Push the assembly up until the car lifts up a little bit from the lift. It sounds dangerous but it isn't. You just need to lift it up couple of millimeters and stop.
You don't need to remove the splash shield but the wheel arch fender needs to be removed. Also if you have xenon lights need to transfer the light level sensor slip.
Damn man that's awesome .I've noticed my left front wheel is hella cambered. I got it up on the jackstands yesterday and started wobbling wheels.I also pressed against all the suspension joints with a crowbar and nothing wobbled. Wtf!? My new one series has 117k miles so everything is probably more worn.
Good Video Presentation. I have an 2016 Audi and I just ordered Lemforder OEM Front Control Arms since I wanted to purchase quality. Would you recommend that I have a wheel alignment done.
Ya total fail on not getting the m3 control arm/tension strut. Little more camber and better solid inner bushings on the tension strut and control arm and usually they are same price or cheaper
@@123456bmx not really. He points out the massive camber which is a problem but I was more curious about whether there were more specific suspension problems like lack of response or under steer etc.
Hey jd wanted your opinion I have a 328i 09 with 132,000 miles I want to do the transmission fluid change it’s never been done so you think I’ll be ok if I do it ?
Lol Invest in wheels, silly aftermarket headlights, pseudo m3 carbon hood. Yet at the same time overlook the basics which make your car run drive like trash and to have a camber that bad it makes your tire trash too :( this really hurts the aestetics of proper car maintenance.
Important! You have to torque down bushings when suspension is preloaded.
Wrong when tightening down the control arm bushing there should be a load on the suspension ..
Couple of points here: You should replace the inner nuts and bolts on the arms as these are torque to spec bolts and torque varies according to the grade of bolt and as everyone else has pointed out this should be done under full load of the car. Also the fastenings for the boots should be replaced with new ones as they tend to fail second use. Also when loosening the track rod count the number of revolutions to take off or measure the distance to thread end to give yourself a rough alignment before you take the vehicle to have its suspension checked over for alignment.
This is by FAR the best DIY video I’ve ever seen.
Thanks, Brian!
As already said, those control arm bushes should only be tightened when the suspension is under load, other wise the bushes will be potentially distorted causing premature failure.
Your DIY videos are terrific! Love that you started with a non-sport package E90 and upgraded, but have to say your bent/warped ISC coilover makes me think twice about wheel spacers and the extra force they inflict. Keep up the terrific work meantime.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos! I am almost certain my wheel spacers had nothing to do with the bent ISC bracket.
Just picked up a 2010 328xi and its having front suspension issues. Thanks for making this video and giving me the courage to do this myself instead of paying a shop.
keep it up
Awesome! I'm glad to help.
Great video. Thanks for posting this and breaking down the tools in the description. This is how a video is supposed to be done.
Of course! Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video and I hope you found it helpful
Nice!!! On my E90, I went with Meyle Sway Bar Links, and Tie Rods and the expensive choice of M3 Control Arms, but I gotta say, it was worth it 😌👌🏼
Great video.
I replaced the 2 control arms and the sway bar link..but not the tie rod. And yes the tie rod boot gets in the way to slide out a bolt.
YOU LUCKY YOU MANAGED WITH ADJUSTABLE WRENCH...HOLY CRAP. I had to apply penetrating oil and use a fixed head 21mm spanner and hammer it as it was really tight an still had a scare moment thinking it would slip. The adjustable wrench would have just slipped and spoiled my day.
Tried to push pressure from underneath of the balljoint but nope still had to use T40 to hold otherwise balljoint just spins.
Took me 2 hours per side and saved few ££ in garage cost.
Yes! Definitely a tricky job! Good job though. Anything to save some money!
Re: Tyre wear. I was having serious issues with rear tyre (inner edge) wear on my 330D E91. Getting the tracking adjusted and going back to run flats (much stiffer sidewalls) solved this completely.
I think those control arms should only be torqued with the entire suspension weight on it; In a settled position, as being torqued before being settled causes the rubbers in the arms to be over torqued when the settled weight hits it being that it was pre-torqued.
Possibly... but I did not have a way to do so.
@@JDCarsChannel You can jack up the wheel assembly. Just like you did with tie rods. Push the assembly up until the car lifts up a little bit from the lift.
It sounds dangerous but it isn't. You just need to lift it up couple of millimeters and stop.
You don't need to remove the splash shield but the wheel arch fender needs to be removed.
Also if you have xenon lights need to transfer the light level sensor slip.
Ayyyy!! You actually said my last name right! Glad I can help man!
Hahaha awesome!
You mentioned upper control arm. Never knew E90s came with uppers. All lower arms on E90s.
Serious valve cover oil leak or head gasket leak. If that oil gets on your water pump it will blow the seals on that too
Love it! Just bought the same kit for my E91 - perfect timing and video :)
Sweet!
wow! nice lift
JD man you make this look too f**kin easy 😩😩😩
Hahaha.. it's not too hard!
oil sump gasket oil leaking?
Great video! My rear tucks on one side, I need to do this
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the vid
The best video i ever seen !!!
This whole job took me 6 hours including the sway bar links, and removing/installing the splash shield.
Nice job!
Great video, greetings from Mexico...
Thank you! I appreciate the support!!
Damn man that's awesome .I've noticed my left front wheel is hella cambered.
I got it up on the jackstands yesterday and started wobbling wheels.I also pressed against all the suspension joints with a crowbar and nothing wobbled. Wtf!?
My new one series has 117k miles so everything is probably more worn.
Haha probably time for new suspension components
Are they only sold in the states? I live inDublin
Those lemföder bushings Will go bad. Ju must fasten bolts when suspension is under preassure
We're u get the headlight s from
What's crazy about 200,000 miles?
Good Video Presentation. I have an 2016 Audi and I just ordered Lemforder OEM Front Control Arms since I wanted to purchase quality. Would you recommend that I have a wheel alignment done.
Good choice! And yes, I would definitely recommend an alignment after installation
I love the videos!!! Wondering why you didn’t go with the front m3 kit?
At the time it was more than I wanted to spend... $80 bucks vs $400
yooooo what are those headlights!!! sexy
Ya total fail on not getting the m3 control arm/tension strut. Little more camber and better solid inner bushings on the tension strut and control arm and usually they are same price or cheaper
Never ever had a nut not come off - You need to apply pressure underneath the ball joint - Probably turning. And adjustable wrenches?? Wow..
What kind of improvements have you noticed? What was the reason for doing this work in the first place? Thanks very much for the video!
Christian Biggins I'm pretty certain if you rewatch the first 30 seconds of the video he talks about that.
@@123456bmx not really. He points out the massive camber which is a problem but I was more curious about whether there were more specific suspension problems like lack of response or under steer etc.
I didn't have an major issues, but I did notice a considerable improvement in steering and handling feel after installing this.
@@JDCarsChannel thanks for that.
Good video! Any chance of you giving torque specs fo the bolts?
Thanks! I should start giving torque specs.
ever find out the camber issue?
Yes! I had actually bent a part of my coilover, which was covered by the ISC warranty 🤙
Damn good video.
Do you have to tighten those control arms under load??????
Yes you do. Just drop the car down on to ramps.
It looks like you removed the strut before you started? Is that necessary? or can you get to the ball joint nuts with the strut in place?
I highly recommend removing the strut. It doesn't take long at all.
Did you try soaking them in Kroil Oil over night and a torch before cutting them off?
No I don't got time for that
What did you do to totally fix the camber, was it the strut. My front right looks identical to yours after bumping a kerb.
It actually ended up being the coilover lower that bent!
Awesome... Question, typically its been the lower control arm needing replacement. How can i tell or know if the upper needs replacement as well. -TIA
So do you need to loosen the steering rack at all if I'm only doing the control arms?
Probably not
Hi!
Did you find out why the passanger side wheel was more in?
Thank you!
Yes! It was actually a bent part of my coilover!
@@JDCarsChannel Hi!Thanks for your answer :)
Mine is the same and its driving me crazy! The bent was visible on your coilover?
What kind of headlights are these? They look terryfic on your car, mine is a e90 from 2011...any suggestions where I can find this upgrade
VIPmotoz. I have links in my headlight videos.
This bbs wheels or avangard???
Avant Garde M310
How did u get just ur halos to be on without the orange light on the side going on to ?
I had MyBimmerBrain code the orange lights out
What size wheels and tires?
Hey jd wanted your opinion I have a 328i 09 with 132,000 miles I want to do the transmission fluid change it’s never been done so you think I’ll be ok if I do it ?
Yeah that shouldn't be too difficult
Bro tell me about trying to find each part it's a pain in the A I have to do the same
Yeah ikr
When i make slow turns, there are squeaking and rubbing sounds coming from my steer...any suggestions
Sounds like your wheels might be misaligned... I'm not sure
Thanks...I’ll have an alignment done and see what happens
You did the front control arms at 200k. When was the last time they were done ?
No idea lol
Its unlikely these are the original at 200k. The bigger control arm bush would not past 100k :(
I could not figure out why this video got any dislikes.... they must be mad about the aftermarket headlights lol.
Hahahah thanks man
Find it kinda funny how this guy has a lift but no heat torch to realease seized bolts
my car had this problem i spend nearly 1700$ for it last month
You went to a Dealership?
Dude there are legit mansions all around your neighborhood.
Needs m bumper!!
True
Forgot the torque specs ...I will let it slide this time😆
Cambergang
Hahaha
Lol
Invest in wheels, silly aftermarket headlights, pseudo m3 carbon hood. Yet at the same time overlook the basics which make your car run drive like trash and to have a camber that bad it makes your tire trash too :( this really hurts the aestetics of proper car maintenance.
Man u talk too much
Are this the m3 upper control arms?
No, I don't think so
Wow surprised they aren’t TRW does a great job at making them cheaper to upgrade than it is to buy oem