We've put countless lightweight poly and poly/spandex to the test. countless tests of varying pressure, temps, covers, etc. In all my presses, I've never seen a tech garment without platen lines at any temps and pressure required to melt transfers. If you have a trick that makes it easy to avoid or remove, please share. Thanks for the videos.
You bet! We have video on a trick to be able to mask any platen marks or the hard-defined edge: czcams.com/video/iL6vJXWnH4g/video.html We also have a video on how to avoid scorching on heat sensitive garments: czcams.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/video.html For printing on synthetic or heat sensitive materials, there's a few things that can help with scorching: 1. Accurate Pressure: Over-pressure is commonly the culprit for damaged t-shirts with polyester or spandex. Ensure you're using the correct pressure- especially if you're utilizing a smaller platen- We made a chart for reference here: assets.stahls.com/stahls/content/pdf/flyers/Pressure%20Adjustments%20for%20Smaller%20Platens.pdf 2. Reduced Temperature Transfer: We used UltraColor Max direct to film transfers here in this video that apply at 290 degrees: 300 or below is typically safe for poly. Using a transfer type that has an even lower application temperature can help too. 3. Correct coversheet: Protecting the garment with something like a Flexible application pad or silicone sheet can help when using specific transfers, but keep in mind it blocks 30 degrees of heat and may impact the application of the transfer. 4. Heated Lower Platens: When all else fails, you can try utilizing a heated lower platen for application or turn the garment inside out to apply heat from the inside (so if it does scorch, it's only on the inside). This one requires some testing with time and temperature to ensure the transfer applies properly.
Hi, love the video! If my heat press doesn’t have a leggings specific feature like you have.. do you have any suggestions on how to still print on the big surface? Thanks, your videos are very helpful
Absolutely! We're always happy to help. For leg or sleeve prints, check out some of the tips we cover in this video ( czcams.com/video/5LjyW5BSMds/video.html ) like laying the leg or sleeve flat over the full press area. Be mindful of the seams under the print and they will impact the application and may show through the print. For printing oversized graphics, we recommend doing it in multiple presses like we show here: czcams.com/video/BI7pyn9HjL4/video.html
Since Nylon is a unique sythetic fabric, you'll need to use a heat transfer type specifically made for that material. While many heat transfers will apply to nylon ok, those not rated for nylon will typically fall of the garment in the first wash. From Transfer Express our full color, UltraColor Stretch transfers are specifically formulated for use on Nylon. Learn More: www.transferexpress.com/heat-applied-transfers/ultracolor-stretch If you're using HTV, we recommend Gorilla Grip from Stahls ( www.stahls.com/heat-transfer-vinyl-gorilla-grip ) or HTV That is made specifically for Nylon.
Absolutely! Most fitted table cloths are 100% polyester. In low quantities or large images (up to 22 x 24"), UltraColor Max Direct to film transfers will give you the best result and the lowest print cost. Win win!
We have not specifically, however, you shouldn't have a problem with either one of these transfer types working. UltraColor Max ( www.transferexpress.com/heat-applied-transfers/ultracolor-max ) will be your best bet for a table cover due to no minimum quantities (you can order just one) and a printable area up to 22 x 22 inches. One thing to look out for: As those table covers can be SUPER stretchy, you'll need to stretch it to the approximate size it will be when on the table, otherwise when pulled over the table the image may be distorted.
We've put countless lightweight poly and poly/spandex to the test. countless tests of varying pressure, temps, covers, etc. In all my presses, I've never seen a tech garment without platen lines at any temps and pressure required to melt transfers. If you have a trick that makes it easy to avoid or remove, please share. Thanks for the videos.
You bet! We have video on a trick to be able to mask any platen marks or the hard-defined edge: czcams.com/video/iL6vJXWnH4g/video.html
We also have a video on how to avoid scorching on heat sensitive garments: czcams.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/video.html
For printing on synthetic or heat sensitive materials, there's a few things that can help with scorching:
1. Accurate Pressure: Over-pressure is commonly the culprit for damaged t-shirts with polyester or spandex. Ensure you're using the correct pressure- especially if you're utilizing a smaller platen- We made a chart for reference here: assets.stahls.com/stahls/content/pdf/flyers/Pressure%20Adjustments%20for%20Smaller%20Platens.pdf
2. Reduced Temperature Transfer: We used UltraColor Max direct to film transfers here in this video that apply at 290 degrees: 300 or below is typically safe for poly. Using a transfer type that has an even lower application temperature can help too.
3. Correct coversheet: Protecting the garment with something like a Flexible application pad or silicone sheet can help when using specific transfers, but keep in mind it blocks 30 degrees of heat and may impact the application of the transfer.
4. Heated Lower Platens: When all else fails, you can try utilizing a heated lower platen for application or turn the garment inside out to apply heat from the inside (so if it does scorch, it's only on the inside). This one requires some testing with time and temperature to ensure the transfer applies properly.
Hi, love the video! If my heat press doesn’t have a leggings specific feature like you have.. do you have any suggestions on how to still print on the big surface?
Thanks, your videos are very helpful
Absolutely! We're always happy to help.
For leg or sleeve prints, check out some of the tips we cover in this video ( czcams.com/video/5LjyW5BSMds/video.html ) like laying the leg or sleeve flat over the full press area. Be mindful of the seams under the print and they will impact the application and may show through the print.
For printing oversized graphics, we recommend doing it in multiple presses like we show here: czcams.com/video/BI7pyn9HjL4/video.html
😁Can you leave a link of where you got the stretch pant from? Or List model number/ source.... Thank you 👍🏾
Sure thing! These are the LPST890 Sport-Tek ® Ladies 7/8 Legging: www.transferexpress.com/apparel/item?id=LPST890
what would you recommend for nylon leggings, nylon htv or stretchy htv
Since Nylon is a unique sythetic fabric, you'll need to use a heat transfer type specifically made for that material. While many heat transfers will apply to nylon ok, those not rated for nylon will typically fall of the garment in the first wash.
From Transfer Express our full color, UltraColor Stretch transfers are specifically formulated for use on Nylon. Learn More: www.transferexpress.com/heat-applied-transfers/ultracolor-stretch
If you're using HTV, we recommend Gorilla Grip from Stahls ( www.stahls.com/heat-transfer-vinyl-gorilla-grip ) or HTV That is made specifically for Nylon.
Will this also work on fitted table cloth?
Absolutely! Most fitted table cloths are 100% polyester. In low quantities or large images (up to 22 x 24"), UltraColor Max Direct to film transfers will give you the best result and the lowest print cost. Win win!
Can you do one with rhinestones on spandex?
While we don't supply rhinestone transfers, we would recommend hotfix rhinestones for application on spandex or lycra fabrics.
Have you tried on a spandex table cover?
We have not specifically, however, you shouldn't have a problem with either one of these transfer types working. UltraColor Max ( www.transferexpress.com/heat-applied-transfers/ultracolor-max ) will be your best bet for a table cover due to no minimum quantities (you can order just one) and a printable area up to 22 x 22 inches.
One thing to look out for: As those table covers can be SUPER stretchy, you'll need to stretch it to the approximate size it will be when on the table, otherwise when pulled over the table the image may be distorted.
@@transferexpress thanks. I figured I would have to do that. I wasn’t even sure about spandex or a temperature to try if dtf would work.