DIY automatic UV curing station with timer
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Don't bend your 3D prints during curing, use this timer solution to cure it right!
🛠️Parts list from Aliexpress:
Trigger Cycle Timer Delay Switch - s.click.aliexp...
10m/32.8ft UV LED Strip - s.click.aliexp...
12V 5A Power Supply - s.click.aliexp...
Turning Table - s.click.aliexp...
2m 2x0,75mm2 Speaker Cable - s.click.aliexp...
1m 1,25mm Magnet Wire/Enameled Wire - s.click.aliexp...
Elegoo White resin - s.click.aliexp...
Parts list from Amazon:
Trigger Cycle Timer Delay Switch - geni.us/AoBt
10m/32.8ft UV LED Strip - geni.us/AYGz
12V 5A Power Supply - geni.us/3G4BKN6
Turning Table - geni.us/7cYtNOs
2m 2x0,75mm2 Speaker Cable - geni.us/qQUp
1m 1,4mm Magnet Wire/Enameled Wire - geni.us/U5xEsZ
Elegoo ABS-Like White resin - geni.us/INQvK
Ikea LIXHULT Cabinet 35x35cm - goo.gl/XYqXqe
Ikea LOTS Mirror - goo.gl/vRNfv6
🔩3D Printed Part:
www.thingivers...
⚙️ My 3D printers:
Prusa MK3s Clone (Fysetc version): s.click.aliexp...
Original Prusa MK3s: shop.prusa3d.co...
Creality Ender-5 Plus: s.click.aliexp...
Anet A6L: s.click.aliexp...
Anycubic Photon: s.click.aliexp...
🎥My Gear (Amazon PAID LINKS):
Main Cam - geni.us/3tcH8z
Secondary Cam - geni.us/aDwP0j
Thermal Cam - geni.us/guC9Ubl
50mm lens - geni.us/Vj4iB
24-70mm lens - geni.us/tBQA
Stable mini Tripod - geni.us/N8T4X
Main Tripod - geni.us/0MwSu
Mic - geni.us/50c0
Wireless Mic - geni.us/4gzJO3
Voice over mic - geni.us/k0yg7
#Curestation #Resin #3DPrinting
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Looks great. But I would recommend calculating the power draw form being parallel vs series for the LEDs. You might be drawing a lot more power than necessary being in parallel.
The LED-s will take as much as they need till they can but not more. If it would be in series because of the voltage drop of the strip would be a significant difference between the first and last LED brightness not to mention that the first LEDs would get also a higher current which would damage them with time.
You should cure that before rinsing. Even after the isopropyl alcohol there is some uncured resin on the piece and it is absolutely not safe to run it down the drain like that.
If you cure it so than the uncured resin will cure to your model which can affect the quality of your print. Since than I am using an Ultrasonic cleaner with resinaway solution which probably cleans even better the uncured resin.
magnificent chamber maestro!!!!
Looks great, what box is that and where did you get it?
The box is simple IKEA LIXHULT cabinet. The parts you can find in the Description. It is made by me.
hello, nice clean build! could you do me a favour and test one of your prints for scratch resistance? i recently built my own uv chamber - with even more power than yours (no flex intended) but the print surface remains weaker (not scratch resistant) than the fully cured resin of the bottom layers that are in direct contact with the build plate (scratch resistant).
Wow that's awesome!
I definitely need one at home! Thanks bro! :D
Nice, I have everything needed to build one, just one question, what size is the wire you glue to the back of the print that covers the timer? Ok two questions, would a piece off a paper clip suffice?
Hi! Good to read that. I used a simple 0.75mm2 speaker cable for the electrical circuit. Paper clip should also work :) I used some male pins like this en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin_header
Have a good build!
Damn Genius! Very Great Work!
Dombi 3D BEAUTIFUL PROJECT I would like to ask you how you guarantee that the temperature remains between 40 and 60 degrees.
fundamental requirement in polymerization.Thank you very much
Thanks! I do not control the temperature here. The LED stripe takes around 55W from the power socket. The chamber get relative hot with time, so it could be possible to keep the temperature around 50°C just with the waste heat from the LEDs I did not measured yet though.
that is a really nice work, but did you change the brass rods places ??
Thanks! You have sharp eyes! Yes I broke off some solder connections during the installation that is why I resoldered the rods with one row away. If you plan to build it I would recommend to glue the LED stripes first and after that point solder the common rod to the LED stripes. So will be less chance to brake it and makes the assembly process easier. I learned it during this set up.
@@Dombi3D for some reason the Trigger is not working for me, would mind explaining it thank you
@@adamhasweh9769 Hi! The key move is at 6:00 in the video.
You need to solder the 5V to that SIGN pin and after that when you short the GND and GND- the trigger is triggered.
You can see that on the picture on thingiverse.
cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/43/a4/f5/0c/a9/16dd4736ec893bdbf6bdfde9a5022a5a_preview_featured.jpg
If you did that already than the Board has some ON/OFF function (left button from the front with STOP text on my design) also, and if it is on OFF position than it does not matter if you trigger the signal it won't turn on the LED-s just start the timer.
I hope this info helps to solve your problem.
@@Dombi3D might want to check your link, I'm getting an error code.
nice, i have all the stuff. now i need the timer. can you close up the wiring? thanks.
Hi!
Good to hear that you are building it!
I uploaded the close-up pictures for you on thingiverse (you can find the link in the description of the video).
If you connect the GND and GND- over the SIGN you trigger the Timer.
One Tipp: If you put on the led stripes first and just soldering the + and - rails afterwards you can make it easier as I did in the video. For me broke out some connections during the installation of the whole LED assembly and it was not that easy that way. After I resolderd the whole again.
Tell me if you have any other question!
Have a good building!
@@Dombi3D thanks i will try it.
Greetings,
I did the wiring up like you have, but just cant seem to trigger the board on P1.1 (or any other for that matter).
The button i replaced the header with works just fine, all the wiring works and everything has been checked and double checked with a multimeter for Volts, Amps and signaling(ohm etc).
It just will not trigger :p
The only way it ever does, is if i connect the grounds from the Power and the trigger as well. Then i can use the pushbutton just fine.
Though it does briefly draw 0V every time i do, which just does not seem fine to me.
Would you happen to have a datasheet on hand for this board?
Cheers!
Edit: i just noticed that you use your metal pin to connect the GND and the GND- ....
So in short, my test (cause i felt out of options), is in fact what you used in order to make the timer work 0.0
Doesnt that produce a brief short circuit? Since you use your power + for your trigger as well?
Hi! It is right the GND and GND- has to be shorted and the SIGN gets the 12V.
I do not find the datasheet, but that is how it works for me. If the STOP button active than it wont turn on the lights just the counter.
Here I could find more info but still no datasheet.
pixelelectric.com/relay-trigger-cycle-timer-delay-module/
@@Dombi3D Heyas, Thanks for getting back to me on short notice.
Found this site. But it clearly says that those two grounds should not be connected if you're using the same Power input for power and signal.
Else the board wont work properly.
Though, after having tested this myself, if you want to use a shared power input, that would be the only easy way to be able to use it, i agree.
www.icstation.com/trigger-cycle-timer-delay-relay-switch-circuit-module-dual-control-p-13538.html
I feel like this board was originally designed to just have a nice and clean trgger circuit, like just a 9v battery with a pushbutton or something.
And while i doubt the board will break ( i did some veeeery sketchy testing today for the hell of it...) seeing my multimeter dip to +0V when i connected the grounds was concrning.
it just screams 'this doesnt seem right 0.0' :p
@@MADhorseKD Hi again,
I think you mean this line:
"2>.GND and GND- can not connect together, otherwise module can not work normally."
In my interpretation it means just you can not connect them permanently (Soldered them together as a short like you hold the button pushed) but you can use it to trigger the cycle like give a high peak.
I am using it so since I made it and it still works :)
@@Dombi3D Heyas,
Well, its clear that there are protections on the board in case something shoddy happens :p
I'm just not sure how this brief short affects my power supply in the long run yet, keeping the safeties in mind.
But for its cheap price, i think i may just over test mine to be on the safe side and let you know afterwards. And maybe just buy a fresh board afterwards :p
Bravo!
A lots of people are saying that led strip are not powerfull enought to cure the resin. Could you confirm that is working and how many time it take to finish the cure.
Hi Sebastien,
I think this chamber is an overkill. As far my experience shows I have to set up the timer so that it is turning on and off with time because if I just let it on continuously it generates so much heat and power that it cracks and bends your 3D model if it has thinner parts.
I made some calculations before I built this chamber which was something like that:
As you can see on the video I used to use these nail UV lamps. They have 4 times 9W tubes in them. It means 36W of power.
The LED-s need around 5A on 12V which means 60W of power.
There is no problem with LEDs. The photon also works with a 25W LED.
What can cause a big difference is the wavelength of the UV Light. It should be around 405 nm.
To answer your question the time is depends on the size of my model that I am curing but around 30-40 minutes is enough most of the time. I did not tested it which is the minimum.
Turn a flat head screwdriver into a solder iron tip?
Looks like that, but it is actually came with this budget/low quality soldering iron ($15). Since than I changed it because it was really hard to work with.
would a 12v 5A power adapter work for 5m strip?thx
Yes!
@@Dombi3D thank you
But it leaks UV a little.
Since than I put some aluminium foil around the edges so it does not leak any! :)
Can you share your slicer settings for antcubic?
meant Anycubic
@@josephwatson7599 Sorry but I do not remember with which settings was printed.
you shouldn't wash in the sink
It was cleaned from uncured resin with IPA beforehand in that Zip Bag. Since then I use an ultrasonic cleaner with resin away, so no worry.
Oooff. You Fivehead. You dont wash you prints under the tap water. It could be water washable resin, but it is still toxic for the environment. 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Itt was cleaned beforehand in Isopropyl alcohol (that was in the ZipBag). Since then I use an Ultrasonic cleaner and Resinaway.