Complete Guide: Changing Engine Oil and Gear Oil on a Honda ST1300 Pan European

Welcome to our step-by-step tutorial on how to change the engine oil and gear oil on a Honda ST1300 Pan European motorcycle! Whether you're a seasoned rider looking to perform your own maintenance or a newcomer to motorcycle maintenance, this video will guide you through the process, ensuring your bike runs smoothly and efficiently.
In this comprehensive tutorial, we cover everything you need to know:
Introduction to the Honda ST1300 Pan European: Get to know your bike and understand the importance of regular oil changes.
Gathering the Tools and Materials: We'll show you the tools and supplies you'll need to complete this task safely and efficiently.
Locating Drain Plugs: Learn the exact locations of the engine oil and gear oil drain plugs on your ST1300.
Preparation and Safety: Safety always comes first. Discover the steps to prepare your bike for the oil change.
Draining the Old Oil: We'll guide you through the process of removing the old engine oil and gear oil, ensuring you do it correctly.
Replacing Oil Filters: Understand the importance of changing your oil filters and learn how to do it yourself.
Adding Fresh Oil: Discover the right type and amount of oil to use, and how to refill your engine and gear oil.
Checking Oil Levels: Learn how to properly check the oil levels and make adjustments as needed.
Proper Disposal: We'll also explain the responsible way to dispose of used oil and filters.
Final Checks and Test Ride: Before you hit the road, we'll share some final checks to ensure your bike is ready for action.
Maintaining your Honda ST1300 Pan European is essential for a long and trouble-free riding experience. Following this guide will not only save you money on service costs but also help you build a deeper connection with your bike.
Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell so you never miss an update from our channel. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to leave a comment, and we'll be happy to help.
Thanks for watching, and safe riding!

[@AlfredMoi]

Thank you and having subscribed. You are really good.
I am doing the oil change next week, before winter, in order to remove the acids. The bike should be placed horizontally for draining and to level up the oil. So initially I put it on its side stand. That way I can also reach for the drain plug, from the right, easily. For draining what is left, I put pieces of timber under the side stand and finally hold the bike upright, being seated. I had oil that formed treads in the wind so watch out for weather. For the final gear:
You had the order wrong. Those filler bolts are often completely stuck. Its cause is that shops do not understand that always the dry torque is being mentioned. This is a large bolt and the gear oil is most slippery and binding to metals. As a result the rubber ring is crushed and the light metals bind together. Also a thing to recon with when you tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Always less then written in service manuals. I hold the wrench close to the center and tighten just a little further. You make us worried saying you destroyed any of those. On removing the engine oil drain plug (also always tightened with wrong momentum) I slide a metal lamp pole over the cap wrench stem an try pulling it loose, without then the need of having to hammer. In preparation one can spray some lubricant the day before. Anyway, when one could not get the filler bolt losse and the hollow filler cap (weaker then one may think) gets rounded and then call out for help to chisel the cap off, one twisting and one hammering and ordering a new cap, the bike can not be ridden on because the final drive gear oil was drained.
For the viscosity SAE 80: the initial number indicates performance at 0°C The number after "W" shows performance at 100°C. What it would almost never reach. Stick to oil being 80W. Also one valuable advice: I have bought Yamalube from under the counter and car gear oil in any shop, it was exactly the same as in the small bottles that are kept on display in the motorcycle shop but those are more then double the price. About buying: it is much better to invest in a funnel that has a strainer. Professionals use no other. Figure out yourself why. See you again

[@pentachronic]

Great explanation. Have you done a video on checking your valve clearances by any chance ?

[@revelationdetailers894]

The T6 says for diesel engines?

[@chubbybrown4real]

that will damage it finally